Hello. This is the RMI Alaska Mountaineering Seminar checking in from our camp at 7,300 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. It's 11 PM here in Alaska and the team is in bed for the night. Just came back from a successful summit day on Mt. Francis. The team was 100% successful and cruised the route in just under 11 hours. We had beautiful weather, clear skies, and just a little bit of wind. Everyone climbed strong and we're looking forward to getting back to training tomorrow. Take care.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
RMI Guide Eric Frank checks in after Mt. Francis summit
Congratulations all. Where are the pictures? Have fun training tomorrow - hopefully weather will hold well.
Tell Jitendar we cant wait for him to get back home. Kids miss Dad!! Love,Mamta
Posted by: Rao Family on 5/19/2011 at 7:33 pm
Congratulations on the summit of Mt. Francis. I saw the 360 panorama on you tube, very cool!, Tell McKinley to enjoy her leisure time as I am putting her to work sailing as crew with Captain Bligh Max Lenker on a 44 ft. Island Packet sail boat on an exploratory trip to Culebra and Vieques in the Spanish Virgin Islands. I have another crew hired named Michael McDaniel. Sailing Virgin Islands 2 - 12 June. Good luck tomorrow. Post some pictures. Max
The weather is very comfortable here at 14k- lots of sun, light winds, and reasonable temps; but the winds persist up high. Wind speeds are around 40 mph at high camp, and probably 50-60 mph at Denali Pass and the summit.
We climbed to the base of the fixed lines today (a little over 1000' above camp), just to stretch the legs and get some exercise. It felt good to climb for a couple of hours.
Now we're back at camp, lounging around and waiting for the winds to ease so we can move to high camp and get a crack at the summit.
The team appreciates everyone's comments on the blog...keep them coming!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
I am back in Denver. I guess Ed, Seth, Mark and I would still be sitting there with you guys. Hang in there and be safe!
Posted by: Kevin Duncan on 5/19/2011 at 12:48 pm
Hi David,
Hope you are enjoying your climbing adventure and that your team stays safe. Liam still talks about your Mt. Hood climb. Wishing you the best from a very flat Chicago suburb. Susan, Dave and Liam.
Our Five Day Summit Climb May 14 - 18, 2011 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today under beautiful blue skies. This is our first program of the 2011 Summer Season and we are pumped that the team was able to make the top. According to RMI Guide Casey Grom "This is as good as it gets!"
The team was beginning their descent from the summit ridge shortly after 10 am Pacific time. The group will return to Camp Muir, rest and repack before making the final descent to Paradise.
Congratulations to RMI Guides Casey Grom and Adam Knoff and their teams!
Yesterday I decided to end my quest to summit Mt Everest, and although I am still torn and wondering whether or not it was the right decision, I thought that I would try and explain to you why.
Dave Hahn always says that he wants to climb mountains with people who climb with their head. Now, I don't always understand everything that Dave Hahn says (ha) and he says a lot of things (ha again), but what I think he means by this is that he wants team mates and climbers who think about the repercussions of their actions, who think about how they are physically feeling, and who don't push themselves into dangerous situations.
Secondly, my dad ended his trip between Camps 2 and 3 (he says its closer to Camp 3, but whatever - ha). The end result is that after May 3rd he wasn't climbing with me anymore. So, for the first time in all our adventures, I had to be climbing by myself. Its been a bummer. Why I climb is for fun, and to be with my dad. And over the past 3 weeks its turned from being a fun experience to really more of a chore. Dave and Linden are awesome guides and great people, but they are not my dad.
So, part of my job as a climber is to think (I know this sounds funny, but I know that a lot of climbers don't think). I have to think about how I am feeling, how strong I am, how much energy I have, and how much I "want it." As we started out our summit bid climb yesterday (the 17th), I was feeling physically strong, but I started to doubt that risking so very much was worth the summit to me.
I don't expect others to understand why I lost my desire to go for the summit and to take the risks needed to do so. All I know is that you just can't manufacture desire to do this. So, as we got to our first break through the Ice fall I told Dave and Linden about my thoughts, and we decided to re-assess and walk back down. What I also didn't want to happen was to push myself to a very high point on the mountain, say 26,000 feet, have the winds blowing at 40 miles per hour, and me not wanting to go on. Then I would have not only have put our entire teams' summit chances in jeopardy, but I would have also created a huge safety situation. People would have had to put their lives on the line to get me off the mountain, and I wasn't going to allow that to happen.
After we got back to Basecamp yesterday, I knew I had to make a decision. The more I thought about it, the more the right decision became clear - but repercussions of that decision were so scary to me that it took me awhile to make it. I'm was (and am) afraid that people will be disappointed in me, that people will believe that I gave up without trying. As I sit here I struggle with the same thoughts, did I give it my best shot? Am I just giving up? The more I think about it though, the more I am reminded of the reason I love going on expeditions so much, and that is because I love to climb, not because I love to summit. The summit is the icing on the cake, but you can still have a great cake without icing. I've done some amazing climbing here, and I think the difficulty of the climbing and the way I've climbed safely and quickly on this mountain has been as good as anyone.
However, I still have a lot of regrets. The repercussions of my decision have made this last day a hard one. I feel horrible everything that has been "invested" in me over the last year to get me to this point and I will not summit. For a year I have been training, buying gear, ice climbing, backpacking and getting ready for a summit bid on Everest, and then when it comes along I have decided not to go. I know my teachers at school have made great sacrifices and invested a lot of time outside the classroom with me to allow me to go on this trip. I thank all the people who have been rooting me on, and sending me messages encouraging me on this climb.
But I also know that it is the right decision. I do have regrets about this, and I know in the coming months that I will have even more, but I just don't think that I am willing to risk what you have to risk to try to summit this mountain. I also think that it is just too difficult for me to access those risks up high without my dad being there. And if I assess those risks incorrectly, the costs are just too much.
So, all I ask of you is to know that I tried my hardest and please don't be disappointed in me for not reaching the summit. Sometimes its really not about the summit of the mountain, but what you've learned and experienced along the way.
Perhaps climbing a mountain isn't really about the mountain at all.
Sara McGahan
Sara, when I first heard about your decision not to summit, I wanted to jump to conclusions however, our friends helped me to understand what a strong person you are and we are all DEFINITELY SO VERY PROUD OF YOU. All of us were waiting to hear the story from you before being disappointed, and we all know the sacrifices you made and if you are happy, we are happy. Although summiting would have been an amazing experience, if you are okay without it, so are we. We are so proud of how far you made it and you will definitely go down in history maybe not for the summit but for the smart decision you made. You will be an example and a legend for future climbers. Hopefully when you come home, we can all catch up and you can fill us in on all of the wonderful memories you have made and you can reminisce on the climb. Yeah, we will wonder what could’ve happened but our curiosity is trumped by our happiness that you are safe and sound at home with us. Just know that we are all proud of you and you are a fantastic person and everyone who is disappointed in you, does not know your story. You know I am a harsh person and I hold you up to the highest standards, and even I am totally okay with your decision and GOT YOUR BACK.
I love you, Sara and hope you have some quick flights home because I cannot wait to see you!
Love, Kathryn M.
Posted by: Kathryn M on 5/20/2011 at 8:14 am
Sara and Bill,
We have all been following your blog and praying for you.
All we have to do is look at the incredible pictures to see that you have ACCOMPLISHED more than most of us ever would dream of even attempting. So, congratulations on your climb and the successes you experienced along the way. I think there are many folks in Atlanta who will be happy to have you back safe and sound a little earlier than the original plan.
Posted by: Jennifer Leinweber on 5/20/2011 at 6:50 am
This is Dave Hahn calling from Advanced Base Camp on Mt. Everest. Myself and Linden Mallory came up today on our new formulated summit plan. We went from Base Camp to Camp 2 today. It was stunning to us the changes in the ice fall, there had been a massive avalanche that had come off the west shoulder, and came right down along the climbing route. It actually made the route better by filling in the crevasses and knocking over all the little walls we were climbing over. It was pretty sobering to think that that same avalanche had it come down when climbers were going though the ice fall, it would have killed many people. As it turned out it came down at a time, sometime this last week, when nobody was in the icefall. That was really something to see.
Linden and I came up through Camp 1 and straight up to Camp 2 in pretty good time and had good conditions. While we were walking there was cloud cover right from the start and from Camp 1 that was real helpful because it kept the sun off of us and light breezes as well so we didn’t dry out as much coming up here as we might normally have. Tcherring also came up so the three of us are up and we hope that Kaji and Dawa are able to come up tomorrow and that will be the making of our summit team. We are going to rest here tomorrow as planned. And take it easy at Advanced Base Camp tomorrow and hoping to go from ABC all the way up to Camp 4, skipping Camp 3 on the following day and be in place for our summit bid.
So we’ll see what the weather does. We are keeping careful track of the weather right now. It is snowing lightly here and Mark Tucker says it is snowing more heavily at Base Camp. We are very interested in what the weather does down there because Bill and Sara are hoping to fly via helicopter from Base Camp to Kathmandu. They weren’t able to fly today due to weather. So we are keeping our fingers crossed for them tomorrow.
That is all for the moment. We’ll be in touch.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
This is Solveig checking in from Mt. McKinley. We left camp today at 11 am for our carry to 13,200’. Three hours of walking up Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, across the Polo field, and around Windy Corner to our cache site. Gusting winds and cool temperatures subsided as we approached our cache, a welcome relief. We took a nice break and buried 12 days worth of food, fuel and extra gear. Eager to be back in the shelter of camp we hustled downhill. Everyone is now relaxing after dinner and hot drinks. The forecast calls for moderate wind and continued low pressure throughout the week. So weather permitting we will make our move up to 14,000’ feet.
We will check in again soon.
RMI Guide Solveig Garhart
Good to hear from the Team again. We are watching your progress. So nice to see the Weather is good and you are eating well and having fun. Miss you Michael.
Love…Mom & Dad
Posted by: Kathleen Esposito on 5/19/2011 at 6:15 pm
So happy the weather is holding up thus far for you! All is well here. I hope the experience continues to be incredible! Love and Miss you Drew!
We awoke at Camp 4 to clouds and light wind, but winds are still strong up high on the ridge to the 17,200' camp. So we're still here at 14,000', waiting for good weather. Fortunately it's pretty pleasant down here in camp. We have plenty of food and fuel, so we'll just wait until the winds subside in order to move up higher. We're all eager to climb, but also patient for good weather to arrive. We all know this is part of expedition climbing...waiting for a good weather window, resting, and acclimating.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Greetings from Wilsonville! We are all wishing you luck here at work. Enough with this wind already…I told mother nature to be kinder today! Take care, Leslie
Posted by: Leslie on 5/19/2011 at 11:30 am
great picture of the climbing team! you all look ready and able to do this thing—-now if the weather cooperates. have fun ; enjoy the journey and take pleasure in the destination.
This is the RMI Alaska Seminar checking in from 7,300 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. We awoke to another beautiful day, beautiful lenticular cloud over Denali this morning as we looked out tents. We quickly saddled up our gear and headed to training. We enjoyed some training on the fixed lines and were lowered into a crevasse.
All day it seemed like we were in a snow globe with warm sun on us through the clouds but continual snow. Kind of amazing up here how you can be in a base layer with it snowing and still feeling the warmth of the sun, but we somehow managed to do that today.
We are all settled in tonight and everyone is resting comfortably. It is another cool night. The clouds moved in and it was snowing lightly again when we went to bed. We are looking forward to another nice day tomorrow. Take care.
RMI Guide Andy Bond
Sara McGahan, Linden Mallory and myself set out from Base Camp just after 5 AM on a final mission through the Khumbu Ice fall. It was meant to be our summit bid. When we reached the first series of ladders over crevasses, we took a break. Linden and I were pleased that we'd reached this point relatively quickly, but it was clear that Sara's mind was not entirely on the day's climbing. She spoke up to say that she wasn't entirely sure she wanted to go through with the planned week-long summit push. We suggested retreating to Base Camp in order to reassess and Sara agreed that would be the best course of action. During the morning at base, Sara bravely grappled with a heavy choice. She wasn't alone, of course, having the counsel of her Dad there in person and her Mom on the phone, but ultimately, the choice was hers to make. In some ways, despite the danger and brutally hard physical work of a summit push, choosing to go on would have been the easier option. Sara made the more difficult choice. She ended her bid to get up Mount Everest at age 16 and she did it with a smile. Bill and Sara discussed things a bit and made clear that they didn't want that decision to end the greater expedition... even though they are the expedition's principal members.
After a few more talks, it was decided that Bill and Sara would leave Base Camp by helicopter in the morning, bound for home, while Linden and I, along with Kaji, Tchherring and Dawa, would continue to work toward the summit. Linden and I intend to lighten our packs and to tighten our itinerary some in order to fit in the "weather window" we believe will materialize in a few days. We won't carry nearly as much emergency gear, now that we aren't guiding, but we still want to be responsible Everest citizens... able to help ourselves and our teammates out of a jam and perhaps even to be of use to others in peril. But definitely as we begin this new venture, the packs will be lighter and the pace will be faster. Linden and I will go all the way to Camp 2 tomorrow, we'll rest a day and recheck the forecasts, and then we'll aim to hop directly up to Camp 4 and set out for the summit that same night. There is still the usual amount of mystery in it for us... we don't actually know what the weather will do (our forecasts are good, but the mountain doesn't much care about such things) we don't actually know what our bodies will do. Linden Mallory is a strong and experienced climber and guide, but he will be venturing nearly a vertical mile beyond familiar heights. I've been up top a few times and should enjoy all the benefits of muscle memory and brimming self-confidence, except... my 20 year span of venturing to 28,000 and 29,000 ft has been anything but smooth, easy and predictable. But I want to see that high up world again. I want Linden to see it as well.
I would have loved for Bill and Sara to see the sunrise from up there near the top of the world and despite the pride I take in knowing they both came to mature and sensible decisions... I do feel a slight letdown in knowing that "guiding" this time around did not result in standing on top with my clients. On the other hand, my climbers are happy and healthy and excited about seeing their family and their home. They both climbed safely up and down dangerous slopes for weeks on end, reaching ridiculous heights. And they saw a number of spectacular sunrises, sunsets, moonrises and moonsets through gargantuan mountain passes. Sara may write in the coming days about her decision and perhaps it will become clear then as to just how completely we've failed (for now) in our bid to turn her into just another self-absorbed, egotistical, mountain-obsessed, risk-addicted climber.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
dear sweet girl…to me, making this “summit” of a decision is what goes on in life…the truth of how you feel will set you free…i think all those that surround you and support you have done so knowing this experience, summit or no summit is an amazing process to have…it teaches you to know yourself…and that, my dear is a beautiful, natural, amazing thing. You have filled the world with strength and beauty, honesty and love…and that is sa-weeet!
Posted by: nancy on 5/18/2011 at 9:41 am
I so sorry to hear Sara had to make the tough decision to come home slightly early. I was climbing this year aged 19 and came home after I became seriously ill, so I’ve been closely following Sara’s progress and really routing for her! I know it’ll prove to be the right choice, and inevitably you’ve both achieved your main aim- to get back home safe. It takes a stonger person to accept that going for the summit isn’t the right option than it takes to reach the summit! You were clearly a strong climber with a level head and should be so proud of what you achieved. All the best, Beckyx
Posted by: Becky Bellworthy on 5/18/2011 at 8:17 am
A weak low pressure system over the mountain has brought an increase in clouds today, but it's still pretty pleasant at Camp 4. More significant than the clouds, is a high pressure system to our east that has increased the winds up high. Today it looks like it is blowing in the 35 mph range at high camp, and winds are forecasted to increase to 70 mph in the next few days.
So for now, we're still on standby, hoping the winds dissipate quickly so we can move up high soon. The team is in good spirits and eager to climb. Camp 4 is a good place to be waiting, as we have a very comfortable camp and we're acclimating and getting stronger each day we spend here at 14,200'.
We'll keep you updated with our status and the weather outlook.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Keep at it Jeff,
You are a continued source of inspiration! Stay safe and enjoy each moment!
Our love and thoughts,
Erik and Meredith
P.S. Got the postcard-love it. Cheers!!
Posted by: Erik on 5/18/2011 at 10:20 pm
David,
Paul and I are sending good weather vibes your way! Have a safe climb!
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Congratulations all. Where are the pictures? Have fun training tomorrow - hopefully weather will hold well.
Tell Jitendar we cant wait for him to get back home. Kids miss Dad!! Love,Mamta
Posted by: Rao Family on 5/19/2011 at 7:33 pm
Congratulations on the summit of Mt. Francis. I saw the 360 panorama on you tube, very cool!, Tell McKinley to enjoy her leisure time as I am putting her to work sailing as crew with Captain Bligh Max Lenker on a 44 ft. Island Packet sail boat on an exploratory trip to Culebra and Vieques in the Spanish Virgin Islands. I have another crew hired named Michael McDaniel. Sailing Virgin Islands 2 - 12 June. Good luck tomorrow. Post some pictures. Max
Posted by: Mc Lenker on 5/19/2011 at 1:00 pm
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