Entries from Expedition Dispatches
We awoke at Camp 4 to clouds and light wind, but winds are still strong up high on the ridge to the 17,200' camp. So we're still here at 14,000', waiting for good weather. Fortunately it's pretty pleasant down here in camp. We have plenty of food and fuel, so we'll just wait until the winds subside in order to move up higher. We're all eager to climb, but also patient for good weather to arrive. We all know this is part of expedition climbing...waiting for a good weather window, resting, and acclimating.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
This is the RMI Alaska Seminar checking in from 7,300 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. We awoke to another beautiful day, beautiful lenticular cloud over Denali this morning as we looked out tents. We quickly saddled up our gear and headed to training. We enjoyed some training on the fixed lines and were lowered into a crevasse.
All day it seemed like we were in a snow globe with warm sun on us through the clouds but continual snow. Kind of amazing up here how you can be in a base layer with it snowing and still feeling the warmth of the sun, but we somehow managed to do that today.
We are all settled in tonight and everyone is resting comfortably. It is another cool night. The clouds moved in and it was snowing lightly again when we went to bed. We are looking forward to another nice day tomorrow. Take care.
RMI Guide Andy Bond
Sara McGahan, Linden Mallory and myself set out from Base Camp just after 5 AM on a final mission through the Khumbu Ice fall. It was meant to be our summit bid. When we reached the first series of ladders over crevasses, we took a break. Linden and I were pleased that we'd reached this point relatively quickly, but it was clear that Sara's mind was not entirely on the day's climbing. She spoke up to say that she wasn't entirely sure she wanted to go through with the planned week-long summit push. We suggested retreating to Base Camp in order to reassess and Sara agreed that would be the best course of action. During the morning at base, Sara bravely grappled with a heavy choice. She wasn't alone, of course, having the counsel of her Dad there in person and her Mom on the phone, but ultimately, the choice was hers to make. In some ways, despite the danger and brutally hard physical work of a summit push, choosing to go on would have been the easier option. Sara made the more difficult choice. She ended her bid to get up Mount Everest at age 16 and she did it with a smile. Bill and Sara discussed things a bit and made clear that they didn't want that decision to end the greater expedition... even though they are the expedition's principal members.
After a few more talks, it was decided that Bill and Sara would leave Base Camp by helicopter in the morning, bound for home, while Linden and I, along with Kaji, Tchherring and Dawa, would continue to work toward the summit. Linden and I intend to lighten our packs and to tighten our itinerary some in order to fit in the "weather window" we believe will materialize in a few days. We won't carry nearly as much emergency gear, now that we aren't guiding, but we still want to be responsible Everest citizens... able to help ourselves and our teammates out of a jam and perhaps even to be of use to others in peril. But definitely as we begin this new venture, the packs will be lighter and the pace will be faster. Linden and I will go all the way to Camp 2 tomorrow, we'll rest a day and recheck the forecasts, and then we'll aim to hop directly up to Camp 4 and set out for the summit that same night. There is still the usual amount of mystery in it for us... we don't actually know what the weather will do (our forecasts are good, but the mountain doesn't much care about such things) we don't actually know what our bodies will do. Linden Mallory is a strong and experienced climber and guide, but he will be venturing nearly a vertical mile beyond familiar heights. I've been up top a few times and should enjoy all the benefits of muscle memory and brimming self-confidence, except... my 20 year span of venturing to 28,000 and 29,000 ft has been anything but smooth, easy and predictable. But I want to see that high up world again. I want Linden to see it as well.
I would have loved for Bill and Sara to see the sunrise from up there near the top of the world and despite the pride I take in knowing they both came to mature and sensible decisions... I do feel a slight letdown in knowing that "guiding" this time around did not result in standing on top with my clients. On the other hand, my climbers are happy and healthy and excited about seeing their family and their home. They both climbed safely up and down dangerous slopes for weeks on end, reaching ridiculous heights. And they saw a number of spectacular sunrises, sunsets, moonrises and moonsets through gargantuan mountain passes. Sara may write in the coming days about her decision and perhaps it will become clear then as to just how completely we've failed (for now) in our bid to turn her into just another self-absorbed, egotistical, mountain-obsessed, risk-addicted climber.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
dear sweet girl…to me, making this “summit” of a decision is what goes on in life…the truth of how you feel will set you free…i think all those that surround you and support you have done so knowing this experience, summit or no summit is an amazing process to have…it teaches you to know yourself…and that, my dear is a beautiful, natural, amazing thing. You have filled the world with strength and beauty, honesty and love…and that is sa-weeet!
Posted by: nancy on 5/18/2011 at 9:41 am
I so sorry to hear Sara had to make the tough decision to come home slightly early. I was climbing this year aged 19 and came home after I became seriously ill, so I’ve been closely following Sara’s progress and really routing for her! I know it’ll prove to be the right choice, and inevitably you’ve both achieved your main aim- to get back home safe. It takes a stonger person to accept that going for the summit isn’t the right option than it takes to reach the summit! You were clearly a strong climber with a level head and should be so proud of what you achieved. All the best, Beckyx
Posted by: Becky Bellworthy on 5/18/2011 at 8:17 am
A weak low pressure system over the mountain has brought an increase in clouds today, but it's still pretty pleasant at Camp 4. More significant than the clouds, is a high pressure system to our east that has increased the winds up high. Today it looks like it is blowing in the 35 mph range at high camp, and winds are forecasted to increase to 70 mph in the next few days.
So for now, we're still on standby, hoping the winds dissipate quickly so we can move up high soon. The team is in good spirits and eager to climb. Camp 4 is a good place to be waiting, as we have a very comfortable camp and we're acclimating and getting stronger each day we spend here at 14,200'.
We'll keep you updated with our status and the weather outlook.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Keep at it Jeff,
You are a continued source of inspiration! Stay safe and enjoy each moment!
Our love and thoughts,
Erik and Meredith
P.S. Got the postcard-love it. Cheers!!
Posted by: Erik on 5/18/2011 at 10:20 pm
David,
Paul and I are sending good weather vibes your way! Have a safe climb!
Laura
Posted by: Laura Piccard on 5/17/2011 at 1:44 pm
Hey, it's Billy again checking in for Solveig and the rest of the crew. We're enjoying a great rest day here at 11,200 feet. We're enjoying some sun, a little stand up comedy in the cook tent. Everybody's enjoying a good laugh. We had a great breakfast of smoked salmon and cream cheese on toasted bagels. We plan on spending the rest of the afternoon drying out gear, organizing and just recovering from three days of hard work, single carrying into 11,000'. So, you know, we hope to prep for our carry up around Windy Corner tomorrow morning and getting all the loads packed up and everything ready to go. So,we'll check in with you guys again tomorrow evening and let you know how that works, but all is well, everyone's in great spirits. And we're having a great time. Cheers.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Billy checking in from a rest day at 11,200'
On The Map
Hi Drew Thinking of you and following your progress. Enjoy beautiful Alaska. Stay safe. Love D lo
Posted by: D lo on 5/17/2011 at 10:29 am
Sounds like a great time so far! Enjoying the updates so much. Stay safe and patient. I love you- Janie
Posted by: Janie on 5/17/2011 at 5:55 am
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Hi this is Seth checking in for Ed, Kevin and Mark. We’ve all returned from Denali safe and sound. We ended our trip without going to the summit which was a disappointment but was the best call for everyone. We had a great time but the unseasonably cold and windy conditions were not condusive to an enjoyable climb for us. For me climbing is all about the experience and the people you share it with and this trip was one of the most enjoyable that I have had. While we did not top out we did return safely. That is the best reward of all.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Ran into this team a few times between base camp and Kahiltna Pass while I was there last week. Got sick and had to descend in a bit of bad weather, so I totally know what it was like up there. Good work all. You had a pretty tight camp.
Posted by: Charles Miske on 5/17/2011 at 1:16 pm
Way to go to all who made it as far as you did. Kevin-we look forward to hearing about the experience & glad you are safe.
Posted by: Jim Hards on 5/16/2011 at 3:44 pm
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The summit bid is getting close. This is how I know:
1. Dave, Linden and Tuck (aka Mark Tucker who is called everything but 'Mark') are constantly huddled around the latest weather report, which seem to come out every 2 to 3 hours. The weather forecast is murky (which is better than it being bad). What Dave, Linden and Tuck seem to know is that no big storm is on the horizon, but the jet stream seems to be on the move. The question is "when" the jet stream is going to move, and then how fast its going to move. We do not want any of our team high on the mountain when the jet stream is over us. We know its going to be cold up there, but what we want to work hard to avoid is high winds. Here is the understatement of the year: the level of difficulty in predicting the weather at 29,000 feet is quite high.
2. Lots of other climbing teams are comparing notes on when to start their bid. It seems that other teams have different forecasts and information, but the conclusions seem to be the same: even the people making the forecasts don't have a high degree of confidence in them, and that the forecasts are uncertain.
3. Our entire climbing team of 7 people seem to be fully rested and well (not sick). This means that they have been down long enough to have their full strength and are ready to start climbing when it is determined that its time to go. I keep bugging Sara to "eat more" and "drink more" to build up her strength but she 1) knows what to do, and 2) is tired of listening to me. Everyone on the team has lost their baby fat, some even a touch of their adult fat, on this trip, but we have to keep trying to eat as much as possible to keep our strength.
4. Our Sherpa team has done a phenomenal job of strategically positioning gear on the mountain. We have tents positioned at Camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 (although the Camp 2 tents are the only ones 'up' - the rest are in bags - due to the ever present threats of high winds), and our oxygen bottles and gear are at Camps 3 and 4. We have other gear (food, safety equipment, etc.) at different camps throughout the mountain. It really has been a herculean task to get things positioned.
5. Today we are taking showers. We always take showers close to the day of departure.
6. Sara is trying to get a massive amount of history homework done. Sara always tries to get a lot of work done prior to a week long climb. It is like cramming before a test I guess. She is massively reading (and highlighting) a text book on the Byzantine Empire (Sara occasionally reads something to our group about the era at dinner, and we all pretend that we know what she is talking about).
7. Our entire climbing team is charging all their cell phones an Ipods/Itouches. We always make sure we are a fully charged team as we start off. The Sherpa's focus is on charging their cell phones, which work at the higher camps for some reason, (the non-Sherpa's cell phone coverage doesn't work above base camp). Westerners have to use a service called Ncell, but locals are allowed to use a different cell phone provider that has better coverage up high. Its one of the mysteries of Everest in 2011.
8. Sara, Dave and Linden have all picked out food to eat at Camp 4 (at the South Col). While the team only hopes to stay one night at Camp 4 (at 26,000 feet), they are bringing enough food for up to 3 days (just in case). This food consists of a lot of freeze dried dinners (Mountain House Lasagna), candy bars, cup-o-soups, cheese sticks, etc. The group hopes to climb to Camp 4 one day and then leave for the summit in the middle of that same night, but if a storm pops up (or even high winds), they may stay at Camp 4 for longer.
9. I have picked out a "get fired up" movie for Sara to watch tonight: The Fighter. The movie (starring Mark Walhberg) is based upon a true story, and has several messages, one of which is what incredible sacrifice and determination it takes to be a champion.
10. The Calendar. It is May 16th. I know we are getting close for a try at the summit because we are getting close to the Monsoon showing up. And when the monsoons start, the mountain is closed for the season.
11. All of Everest BC is abuzz with groups getting ready for their summit bids, monitoring their teams on the mountain, or just leaving. Several camps are already gone, having accomplished (or not accomplished) whatever they set out to do.
12. The physicians here are incredibly busy. The HRA (The Himalayan Rescue Association) doctors are a group of physicians whose costs are covered by the various climbing groups to treat clients, guides, porters and Sherpas, They do an incredible job. Many patients are treated face to face, but other times the HRA docs are called upon to help treat climbers who are high on the mountain. They are on call 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and are currently working (as I write this) at an incredible pace under tremendous pressure.
13. We are almost out of Coca Colas. When we started this trip Sara and I ordered 24 twelve ounce Coca Colas (for about $40) to have at Base Camp. We have been enjoying them, but self rationing them, since we arrived at base camp on April 6th. We are down to one Coca Cola. I think we are going to split it.
14. Our camp is melting. We live on the Khumbu glacier and our camp is noticeably melting every day. Our tent sites, which were originally flat, are now not, but we are living with it because, hey, the glacier may melt them flat again. Pools of water form in our camp daily and then freeze at night. The base to our Stupa is rapidly melting. We may have to do some construction work in the days ahead.
15. Avalanches are now so common we don't pay much attention to them. When we originally got to Basecamp we would rush out of our tents to see an avalanche coming off one of the many surrounding mountains. Avalanches are now so common (due to the warmer weather) that we no longer rush to view them, or even pay much attention to them, unless they are in the Khumbu Ice fall. Needless to say, the ice fall is an extremely scary place.
So, in summary, this is how I know that our summit bid is getting close: food picking, charging, showers, homework, doctors busy, dwindling Coca Colas, etc..
I am both nervous and excited for Sara. I know how hard she has trained and worked for an attempt at the summit, but I also know how much luck is involved in actually summitting. I know she is very determined and "wants it" very badly, but I also how easily things could change to prevent a summit bid. Three years ago Sara and I tried to summit Mt. Elbrus and bad weather stopped our entire group. Then last year Sara and I went back to Elbrus and had a perfect weather day and made it to the top in about 6 hours of easy walking. Mountain climbing is a fickle business, and it can be
extremely rewarding, and also extremely disappointing. I know that Sara is strong enough to climb this mountain, but one never knows if things will work out.
So, that's it from Base Camp for today.
Bill M.
Sara, Bill! No matter what ends up happening, you two are top of the world from my perspective. The decisions you are making and have made are awesome. Im so impressed. Love, Anita
Posted by: Anita on 5/17/2011 at 9:18 am
Dave Hahn, do you know BILL? Thanks for writing Bill, and thanks for the clinic mention. Give our docs a hug for me? HOpe Sara, Dave, Lindon and Sherps get up quickly and down safely. xox
Posted by: Dr Lulu on 5/17/2011 at 7:52 am
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Hey this is the RMI seminar checking in from Kahiltna Glacier. Today we moved our camp closer to the base of Mt. Francis we are hoping to make a summit attempt of Mt. Francis later this week. We spent the afternoon fortifying our camp as a small storm is upon us. We also spent the afternoon reviewing and learning more about anchors. Tomorrow will be a good day of training and hopefully this weather will move on. We'll check in later.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson checks in from the Kahiltna Glacier
Hi McKin!
Ivie, Hunter, Ray and I are cheering you on!!! We love you.
Posted by: Julie on 5/17/2011 at 12:38 pm
Hey Jitendar,
Hope the storm has passed and wasnt too bad.Post some pictures.Cant wait to see you guys dominating the mountain!!
Love,Mamta.
Posted by: Mamta on 5/16/2011 at 7:12 pm
We're resting at Camp 4 today, with beautiful weather. The forecast is for pretty high winds the next few days, so we'll likely be here through the beginning of the week. Hopefully the winds abate (or the forecast doesn't verify!), and we can move up high soon.
We enjoyed a late breakfast with lots of bacon and coffee this morning, and now we're lounging around, reading and whatnot. Our spirits are high, and we're hopeful that we can move up high soon.
Thanks for the posts on the blog, it's always good to hear from friends back home.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Just wishing you a good night’s rest and letting you know your family is thinking of you and sending all our love!!! I love you….Megan
Posted by: Megan on 5/15/2011 at 10:04 pm
SEND IT, RAPPSTAR!!! Btw bacon and coffee at 14,000 feet? Sounds like pretty much the best Sunday ever! Get after it, take pics, and stay safe my friend!
Posted by: Claire on 5/15/2011 at 9:16 pm
Hey gang, this is Billy checking in for our McKinley expedition on our fourth day on the on the mountain. We moved up from Camp 2 to at 9,600' up to our Camp 3 at 11,200'. The team moved incredibly well. We were only 2 and a half hours from camp to camp, single carry, so no back carry in the future for us. We spent a lot of time this afternoon, digging out camp and building walls and building a pretty elaborate cook tent. It's been a very low snow year up here in Alaska. So with barely a meter of snow on the glacier definitely made for some creative cook tent construction. But our walk up was really nice. It kind of alternated hot and cold. We arrived in camp with perfect, sunny weather and we're sitting pretty at this point. Tomorrow's plan calls for a rest day. So, wish us luck. It's gonna be a trying day laying around the tent tomorrow. That's about all for now, and checking out from Billy, Solveig and the rest of the crew. Have a good one.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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Tom,
Greetings from Wilsonville! We are all wishing you luck here at work. Enough with this wind already…I told mother nature to be kinder today! Take care, Leslie
Posted by: Leslie on 5/19/2011 at 11:30 am
great picture of the climbing team! you all look ready and able to do this thing—-now if the weather cooperates. have fun ; enjoy the journey and take pleasure in the destination.
Posted by: jim dunn on 5/18/2011 at 1:33 pm
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