Entries from Expedition Dispatches
The Four Day Summit Climb May 27 - 30, 2011 made their summit bid this morning but were forced to turn around at 13,800' due to poor visibility. The team is descending to Camp Muir and will be making their way back to Paradise by early afternoon.
An always tough move to 17,200' was made a bit more pleasant today with some perfect weather and climbing conditions.
We're all in bed now after setting up camp and having dinner. We're awaiting the morning to see if this nice weather holds out. If things are perfect, we'll go for the summit! I've learned that you just can't pass up a perfect day on this mountain. I've seen too many other folks squander opportunities that never arise again.
However, a rest day would be most welcome if conditions are at all marginal. It might just mean that we have to wait out a weather system coming our way in the next couple of days.
Goodnight,
RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Maile
Hello, this is Adam Knoff and the Upper West Rib Climbing Team. We are established comfortably here at 11,000’ on Mt. McKinley. We moved up today from our camp at 10,200’ in very nice weather.
The weather deteriorated a little bit this afternoon bringing some clouds and light snow. We were able to climb above camp for a few hours and found a nice place to do some ice climbing and some training. That got everybody excited and morale is good.
Everyone is feeling strong and we expect to make a carry up to 14,000’ tomorrow. Then we will see what the weather is like as the forecast calls for a low pressure system on Tuesday and Wednesday. This puts a little uncertainty into our planning so we'll play it by ear.
As our team gets to know each other we have discovered that the never snoring Mr. James Fitch does in fact snore. And that is one of the fun new discoveries of the trip so far.
We'll keep you posted as our plans for the upcoming days develop.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Good evening friends and family,
We are all comfortably moved into our new camp at about 11,000 feet. It took us 2.5 hours to move here from 9,500 feet and about 2 hours to level tent platforms, dig our cook area, and retrieve the cache we established yesterday. Everyone worked hard to refine this camp because we are planning on being here for the next three nights. We will carry gear higher on the mountain, rest, and continue to acclimate.
We will check in again soon.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
On The Map
The Summit Teams departed Camp Muir for an early alpine start today but were forced to turn around at approximately 11,400' due to high winds, poor visibility and reportedly high avalanche conditions. The Five Day Summit Climb May 25 - 29 and the Four Day Summit Climb May 26 - 29 teams returned safely to Camp Muir and rested for a few hours before starting their decent to Paradise.
Sleeping in has never felt better! Today there were no calls for hots while the temps outside hovered near the 0 degree mark. We got up when the sun warmed up the inside of the tent and the frost on the tent walls and ceilings started dripping on our foreheads.
Today was a day to linger over our brunch of smoked salmon, bagels and cream cheese. Have a third cup of something, and just relax. Yes, at one point we did feel obliged to fortify camp as all smart climbers would, but many hands made for short work of this chore.
We also hosted our successful RMI team led by Billy and Solveig to some fine bacon and cheese bagels. These guys were on their way down the mountain to catch a plane off the glacier.
So far the weather looks good for us to move camp up to 17,200'. We're all excited for the move, seeing how it will put us in great position to finally make our summit bid. We'll try to catch you tomorrow for an update, but given the tremendous amount of work we have in store, it may be delayed.
Good night,
RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Maile
Another day in the bank. We are still enjoying sunny days and warm, but pleasant, temperatures at our 9,500' camp on Mt. McKinley. We carried a load of gear and food up to 11,200 feet which will help our acclimation process and get us set up for climbing higher on the mountain. However the crew is most excited that they are done with the heavy loads...for now.
We are back at 9,500' resting and acclimatizing. We will check in again soon.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
This is Adam checking in from Mt McKinley.
Yesterday our team made an exploratory reconnaissance up the NE Fork of the Kahiltna. This is the approach glacier that leads to the bottom of our climbing route, the West Rib.
It was an instructive day. Without going into detail, suffice it to say for reasons based on mountaineering experience we have decided to forego climbing the lower portion of the West Rib. Rather, our revised plan will be to follow the West Buttress route to 14,000’ and from there intersect the ridgeline and climb the upper West Rib to the summit.
We are aiming to make camp today at 9,500’. The weather is gorgeous, the team is strong, and everyone is excited about our new strategy.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
The Summit Team was forced to turn around today at 12,100' due to high avalanche danger. They will be starting their descent to Paradise.
We awoke to a clear, cold morning, excited to get our climb up the fixed ropes and onto the West Butress started. With several other guided groups set to climb this morning, we coordinated our departures and ended up being the first big party up the hill, alllowing us to move unhindered by other traffic. This ended up working out great for us because our teamed proved to be up to the task of climbing the steep terrain of the route.
Under perfect conditions, we negotiated the fixed lines that seem so dauntingly steep from camp, and made our way up the Butress to a cache spot at 16,600'. This is a spot higher than most folks cache, yet everyone made it there in good form. At this point the climbers who were still feeling great went on to carry all the way up to 17,200' camp, a feat that I had yet to be able to do with a group in 20 years! This is certainly a testament to how well our team is doing.
So, after this great success (and incredibly hard work) we are really looking forward to our first rest day tomorrow. Given the amount of energy everyone has given to reach this point, it will be the rest we so deserve to charge back up the batteries in preparation for our last move towards the summit.
I, for one, am looking forward to sleeping in tomorrow.
Good night,
Brent
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Well done everyone, hope the weather stays god for you all. Stay safe, Love to Paul from Catherine, John, Lauren, Ben, Mum & Dad xxxx
Posted by: Catherine Haslewood on 5/31/2011 at 6:51 am
Dear guides, please post update on the team progress as soon as you can
Posted by: Marina on 5/30/2011 at 11:24 pm
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