Entries from Expedition Dispatches

The Four Day Climb teams for June 20 - 23 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 6:40 am.  The team reported great conditions and a beautiful day. They will descend to Camp Muir, take a short break and continue down to Paradise later this afternoon.

Congratulations to today's climbers.

Photos: Seth Burns

Tuesday, June 23, 2026 - 1:11 am PT

June 22nd - Day whatever.

Today was the teams first unplanned rest day. A storm is moving through the area over the next few days, and while we are unsure of how severe it will be, we are sure we don't want to be high on the mountain until it passes. We are also sure as hell up to the task when our time comes.  Today we enjoyed excellent breakfast quesadillas (send hot sauce) and built up our fortifications around camp. These fortifications are 4-5 ft high walls made of quarried snow blocks, complete with a 6.5 ft arch the ancient Greeks would approve of. Shout out to Jimmy's vision and passion to this beautiful piece of work.  Bob the builder ain't got shit on him. After a short break we jumped right into a quick yoga session. Amanda led us through an excellent vinyasa... in the snow, at 14 thousand feet, we are not in Kansas anymore. After another short break Dr. Nick gave us a wonderfully compelling, if not sobering, lesson in the basics of wilderness medicine and the benefits of a tongue piercing.  I feel compelled by the many elegant writers in our group to expand beyond the literal in this writing, and the reflection of Nick's question seems to be the jumping off point for this so here goes...

What makes you feel alive? This is a very individual question with no proper answer. Personally nothing challenges me, fulfills me, or motivates me like the wilderness. Nothing gives me perspective, closure, or meaning  like the places in the world where nature still reigns supreme. 

Nothing makes me feel alive like being in the mountains. Everyone on this mountain, not just this team but the true spectrum of humanity that coexists in this frozen paradise has a common goal, and in this goal we are united and supported by each other in ways that don't always persist off the mountain. We are far more than surviving out here, we are thriving and growing and learning in ways that you cannot replicate in a classroom.

Life is weird and trippy and completely uncertain, but in these moments and in these places we are present and living to the fullest. We are very very lucky, and very very smelly.To avoid writing a thesis, I think what it boils down to is to find your mountain. Find what makes you feel alive, whatever it is and keep climbing until your knees give out. Then maybe crawl for a little bit. I want to thank my parents and siblings for supporting me while I chase my dreams across the world. I love you guys, and I miss my dog.

RMI Climber Matt Gates

Monday, June 22, 2026 - 9:48 pm PT

Our crampons were crunching snow just after 8 this morning as we got going up Motorcycle Hill.  An hour of climbing got us to the middle of Squirrel Hill, where we had great (and new) views of the Peters Glacier and the NW Buttress of Denali.  We had some steep hills to muscle up before reaching the relatively flat terrain at the start of the Polo Field below the end of the West Buttress.  An hour of gradually steepening climbing then got us to the relatively flat terrain at the start of the Polo Field below the end of the West Buttress.  An hour of gradually steepening climbing then got us to the pass at Windy Corner.  There, at about 13,300 ft we chose to cache our food and fuel.  The weather stayed more or less stable -there was no wind at windy corner- but clouds were increasing and we were getting intermittent snow showers. The team had a smooth descent to 11k with lighter packs and sleds.  The afternoon and evening were mostly cloudy back at camp, but we enjoyed a few sun breaks too.  We hope to move up to 14k tomorrow ahead of a forecasted storm. Fingers crossed.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Sunday, June 21 - 11:30PM PST

Day 11! Wow. How far we have come from the Denali Brew Pub in Talkeetna - freshly showered, wearing shorts, and eating fresh greens. But what an incredible 11 days it’s been.

11 days of living in what feels like a simulation where the vistas in every direction look like a green screen.
11 days of seeking daily validation from Ben, Mike, and Avery-- “Avery, how many layers are you planning to start the day with??” “Mike, how’s my knot looking??”
11 days of squeezing one last M deal game in after dinner.
11 days of singing Ariana Grande’s God is a Woman in my head to power me through the final 500’ of our 3000’ vert days.
11 days of worshipping the sun each morning as she peeks over the mountain tops and drips down into our camp.
11 days of shitting in a bucket with a bunch of dudes and somehow feeling more at peace than I have in a long time.
And 11 days of feeling entirely and fully present.

A couple of days ago, Nick asked us to describe what the mountains mean to us in three words. I said, “Here I am.” Meaning, on the mountain, there’s no other place I need to be, no deadlines to meet, no notifications to check, no messages to respond to. It is a rare and special feeling. Insert a comma and you have “Here, I am.” On the mountain, I simply exist. I’m not worried about what I look like  or performing in a way that others expect of me. I am me. And that’s enough.

This morning started like most of them have - peeling off our eye masks as Ben’s voice breaks the silence: “hot water in 15!” And we embark on the 15-20 minute ordeal that is getting layered, putting boots on, getting out of the tent, and braving the icy air outside. We gathered in the kitchen tent for hot coffee and the long awaited pancake breakfast. Pancakes fluffier than the powder that surrounds us. Mid chow, Amanda finally started the kitchen tent rave she’s been begging for, hooking up to the Bluetooth and blessing us with Soffi Tucker’s banger “Throw Some Ass.” Just as the  beat dropped, Ben turned around and flipped a pancake twice the size of his head a foot into the air catching it flawlessly back in his skillet. The crowd went wild. After the flapjack show, we split up into our rope teams and made the short walk to the “edge of the world,” an iconic rock outcropping at 14K camp that looks thousands of feet below into the “Valley of Death.” The rest of the afternoon Jimmy, Hudson, and Dev built ice walls around our camp to protect us from the incoming weather. Avery led a clinic on avalanche beacons and rescue, and we got “knotty” with Mike. These rest days are important both for acclimatization and to let our muscles recover before our hopeful summit bid.

At this point in the trip, we have completed our preparation and have put ourselves in position to summit this thing. We should be proud of that. Yesterday we finished our final cache up to 16K. It was intense navigating our way up and down the steep terrain digging our crampons into electric blue sheets of glacial ice while simultaneously moving our ascenders up the fixed lines—a first for several of us. But the whole team crushed it.

And now we wait. Wait for Mother Denali to invite us to her peak. I often say, “the mountain doesn’t care.” She will not coddle you or temper her forces to make you feel more comfortable, more at ease. It’s one of the reasons that preparation and respect are a requirement (though not a guarantee) for success up here. But for the past 11 days, it feels like she knows we are here and is not only showing off her treasures but will help guide and protect us on our way to her summit.

As we patiently wait for our “summit window” (i.e., 72 hours of clear and calm weather that will allow us to safely move from 14k camp to 17k camp to the summit and back down), I feel so much gratitude for my mental and physical strength and the opportunity to explore some of the farthest corners of this beautiful planet (doing it with my husband and little sister is the cherry on top). And I feel confident that we’ll finish this climb the same way you get anywhere else you want to go in life: by putting one foot in front of the other.

PS Happy Father’s Day Dad (and to all the dads out there)! You are with us every step of this journey. We can’t wait to share stories and photos with you soon! ❤️

PPS Thank you to all of the friends and family who have been following along! Your love and support mean the world to us. We’ll see you all soon.

With love from 14K,
Allison
 

Sunday, June 21 - 6:45PM PST

We didn’t get up in the middle of the night!  It was wonderful to sleep until the civilized hour of six AM. Being higher up the hill at 11k means we don’t have to work so hard to avoid heat. We set off on our “back-carry” at 8 AM, snowshoeing down the hill to our cache at 10k. We collected our food and fuel and made it back into 11camp by 10:30.  The team sheltered from the sun until 3 and then we assembled to review crampon footwork and handling an ice axe, both of which will be useful tomorrow as we transition to steeper terrain. It began to snow -gently- as we finished training and set about packing for tomorrow’s carry.

- RMI Guide Dave Hahn 
 

On June 20th the Mt. Baker Climb team led by RMI Guides Joe Crawford, Celeste Wilson, and Julian Kral summited via the Easton Glacier route. After a successful summit the team spent one more night at Sandy Camp before descending the rest of the way back to the trailhead this morning for the conclusion of their trip.

Way to go climbers!

Saturday June 20 - 8:45pm PST

We’re progressing well up the mountain and having fun! Currently we are at 11k camp with a cache at 10k feet. Tomorrow we plan on retrieving our cache and to place our next cache around 14k the following day. We will see if the weather cooperates with that plan. We’ve been blessed with great weather so far, if even a little hot in the sun. After the first couple days sleeping on the glacier, I’m excited to be making vertical progress!

- RMI Climber Daniel

Saturday, June 20 - 7PM PST

At 2AM things didn’t look so great… there were big clouds and it was spitting snow on our 8K camp. After a cup of coffee, everything looked better and we rallied the team for moving day. We were on the trail just ahead of 5 AM and moving well in the cool shadows. Before long we were up Ski Hill and pulling on to the plateau at 9500 ft. We took a break near our 10K cache and then rounded the corner bound for 11K. The last hill was bigger and steeper but our team was firing on all cylinders and we cruised into our new home by 10AM. It took about 2.5 hrs to hammer out tent sites and a kitchen and dining tent but it then felt pretty good to move in to shelter from the intense high altitude sun. After a few days down in the valley of the Kahiltna, it is a thrill to be looking out at the Alaskan tundra to the NW and back down to 17,400 ft Mount Foraker to the SW.  The end of the West Buttress is gigantic above camp. We may actually get a thunder snow shower after dinner this evening as the cumulus clouds have been building and rumbling.

- RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Saturday, June 20 - 10PM PST

We started the day with hot Cinnamon Toast Crunch. That was unique. It fueled us for our cache above the fixed lines at 16,500.’ A challenge I believe we were all ready for and eager to accomplish. Now the waiting game. In moments like these, I reflect on Nick’s question about three things that describe why we are here and/or why we climb. The obvious ones come to mind - pushing yourself, doing hard things, and accomplishing a-typical goals. But when I think on it further what an expedition like these most rewarding are the people I get to meet and this trip is proving to be no different. Our team contains inspiring people. My tent mates: Hudson - an excellent listener, always supportive of others, thank you for introducing me to ibuprofen gel. Devin - our daily dose of laughter, energy and great story teller. Our teammates, Matt - has solid music taste, great work ethic, and a fellow Ohioan. Jimmy - sound leadership skills, insightful, and strong like bull. Allison - Smart, calm, and also strong like bull. Amanda - always with a smile, social, and has a great laugh… shoutout Jimmy’s Angels. Nick - our resident doctor the one we go to for all medical questions, a team player, and another Ohio brethren. Ben - we thank you for letting me borrow your boot warmers and the group your solar panel - shoutout Ed.

And of course our guides, our fearless leaders. Ben L.- el jefe, keeping our team motivated, providing us with your climbing knowledge, and making sure each of us are heard. Mike Bennett - killer Hawaiian shirt, dominant at Monopoly Deal, and can’t wait to hear about your future wife from Austin, TX. Avery -  a wonderful person to have a conversation with, hard worker, and does wonders with super glue on helmets. I am grateful to spend this experience with each of you. This is my second attempt of Denali and after meeting each of you I wouldn’t have it any other way. All that said, the jobs not done, but the sun will come out… tomorrow!! And to end with some inspiration from Big John Morrison - “Be in the moment” and “go be great.” #touchofdutch

- RMI Climber Ethan
 

Friday, June 19th - 10:50PM PST

Let's begin with the obligatory summary of the day. Today was a rest and training day at 14k camp.
Our guides saw fit to bless us with a late start to the day, allowing a couple more hours of sleep until the sun peeked out over the mountain to bathe the camp in warmth. As the frost on our tents (on everything, really) melted away, we enjoyed a team breakfast, which included a rousing discussion of the best rom-com, as well as efining a dude vs chick flick. After attaining peak caffeination (and an additional discussion of the best methods of caffeination) we gathered our climbing gear and buttoned up camp before heading up the hill for some training. On the hill, we practiced using our ascenders for the fixed lines on the route above, as well as techniques for the descent. Personally, these skills sessions are one of my favorite parts of the climb. The team especially appreciated Mike's "hot knowledge" tips. Once training was complete, we descended back into camp for a relaxing afternoon with a breathtaking view of Mt Foraker and the expansive Alaskan wilderness stretching out below us.

Now that the summary is complete let's reflect. A rest day is a perfect opportunity for these introspective thoughts. I decided to poll the group to help write this portion of the blog, which is admittedly a pretty lazy way to write a blog, but hey, it's my post and my rules.
Living on the coast of Lake Erie just barely above sea level, I frequently get asked: what's it like climbing a mountain? I always struggle with this question to be honest. I'm not a wordsmith or a poet, and I often fail to find words to do the mountains justice. So I asked my team to do it for me! I asked them to describe in about three words, what it's like to climb mountains. These words could include the reasons why they climb, their favorite aspects of climbing, challenges, etc. Here are their answers:
Our fearless guides go first. Ben: For the people

Mike: Engaging, rewarding, purposeful

Avery: Community,  physical, hands-on.

The guides had an additional three words: Pete,
send money.
On to the clients:

Matt: To feel alive

Devin: Devin broke the rules and gave me three 30 word phrases, so I picked my favorite. Misogi. Which is Japanese for challenging yourself on an experience that has a 50/50 chance of completing
that experience.

Ethan: Moving goal posts

Jimmy: Type 2 fun

Allison: Here I am

Amanda: Wanting for nothing, I am whole.

Hudson: Exploring the limits of ourselves

I won't presume to interpret or explain these deeply personal words and phrases but I will tell you about mine (it's my soap box after all): Challenge, joy, and gratitude
Challenge: I've always been a very goal oriented person and l've always loved a good challange. The mountains challenge me to be disciplined. Disciplined in my training, my planning, and in my mindset on the climb. The mountains challenge me physically, occasionailly pushing me harder than I've ever worked before. The mountains challenge me mentally, Being away from family and friends is challenging. Not showering for weeks is challenging. Entering a tent that smells absolutely rank is challenging.

Joy: I've experienced some of my happiest moments in the mountains. Tagging the peaks of the 5 Washington stratovolcanoes with my brother ranks up pretty high. He just made me an uncle last month, so he's got a pretty good excuse for skipping this climb. There's joy in making new friends, joy in pushing through a tough day together, and joy in inside jokes (hypothetically speaking, or screaming WHERE ARE YOU in a Tom Delong voice from various points in camp). There's obviously joy in reaching the summit, but the whole climb is filled with joy from start to finish

Gratitude: I firmly belive that nothing teaches you gratitude like the mountains. I'm grateful for a job that funds and allows time for trips like this, grateful that Matt brought all the Austin Powers movies, grateful for my family who cheers me on (even if my mom thought there was a Starbucks at basecamp), grateful for a loving wife who is supportive to a fault (love you Molly!), and I'm grateful for my health and ability to climb. I'm also grateful for Denali. She has allowed us to  experience her beauty and power. She has allowed us to climb, but frequently reminds us that this is a privilege. With wide crevasses, ever changing weather, and the thunder of distant avalanches and rock fall, she urges us to never take our time on the mountain for granted. I'm grateful that Denali has given me permission to be here, to climb to this point, to experience the challenges and joys of climbing, and grateful that she reminds me to always appreciate my time in the mountains.
So there you have it. As best as my team and I can explain, that's what it's like to climb.

RMI Climber Nick Lukens