Thursday, May 4, 2017 7:20 pm PT
Well, RMI's 2017 Denali season has officially started. Our team all assembled in Anchorage yesterday and we traveled north to the town of Talkeetna. Talkeetna is quite sleepy this time of year, but it'll be a different story in a few weeks when we return from our expedition. The town will be abuzz with tourists and climbers looking to see the majesty of the Alaska Range.
Today was spent at the K2 Aviation Hangar, meticulously preparing and packing our equipment for the next few weeks on the mountain. Tomorrow (weather permitting) we'll be flown on to the Kahiltna glacier by single engine airplanes to start our expedition. It's important that we have our gear dialed before we get dropped off in the middle of the Alaska Range.
Every one is stoked for the journey ahead of us. We know there will be a lot of hard work ahead of us, but it will certainly be rewarding.
Thanks for checking in. We'll be sending frequent updates, so be sure to check back soon. Hopefully our next dispatch will come from the beautiful austerity of the Alaska Range.
RMI Guides Mike Walter, Robby Young & Lucas Haaland
Greetings from the Southeast Fork of Kahiltna Glacier. We flew in a day ahead of schedule in anticipation of the weather that kept all flights grounded in Talkeetna yesterday. With the current snowy conditions for routes in the Ruth, we decided to switch our destination. Yesterday we scouted the approach to routes like Mini Moon Flower, and Bacon and Eggs, a route that despite its funny name, is a treat to alpine climbers. Today we're doing the same for the Southwest Ridge of Mt. Frances, another objective we consider. We're hoping to climb tonight on the western flanks of Mt. Hunter and the ridge that connects it to Kahiltna Queen, dominating the end of this cup de sac glacier.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Our final morning has been perfect. Warm, sunny weather just right for a last morning of training. Fixed rope work with ascenders, then an informative session learning about snow pits has topped off a wonderful week with a great team.
Now, for a pleasant descent to Paradise then on to the luxuries of living at sea level.
Though some have mentioned wanting to stay here another few days, I think we're all ready for a shower and some real food.
It's been fun!
RMI Guide Brent Okita
An attempt at the summit was not to be had given the avalanche conditions up high. So, instead we learned how to evaluate these conditions and deal with an avalanche rescue.
In the afternoon we worked on some ice climbing skills, lowering folks into a large crevasse so they could claw and fight their way out. Everyone did great, and nobody was left in the hole.
When we got back to Camp Muir, the team was still excited to do more, so we worked on advanced cramponing technique and belaying. I think everyone was psyched with how the weather has finally settled out and granted us some blue sky and mild winds.
Tomorrow we address a few more skills, then head down to Basecamp in Ashford, and perhaps a beer and burger to celebrate a great week, and a fantastic crew.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Looks like a lot of fun! Aside from the avy danger, how did conditions look on the Ingraham glacier (assuming you made it to Ingraham Flats)? I’m planning an attempt in the next few weeks ago and I haven’t found much recent beta from any of the routes; weather-wise it’s been a pretty terrible past few months. Thanks!
After learning the fundamentals of glacier travel and snow and ice climbing, we put our newly honed skills to good use as we climbed to 11,000' to check out the upper mountain.
Unfortunately, the weather came in fast and we had to beat a hasty retreat back to Camp Muir. What a fun day!
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Our seminar started out on Sunday with some rainy weather, but that sure didn't get in the way of a great day of technical training at our facilities in Ashford. We got all prepared to make our way to Camp Muir the following day.
On Monday we had to wait for the road to be plowed up to Paradise, but once we donned snowshoes at the trailhead it was all systems 'go'. Breaking trail through the new snow slowed our ascent some, but a windless day made the seven-hour hike bearable. The clouds even parted for the last half hour offering us a gorgeous view of the summit.
Folks were all pretty happy when we finally got horizontal, and were still in that position when I woke them up eleven hours later.
This morning we've been gifted a beautiful, sunny day with no wind. A rare thing at 10,000' on Mt. Rainier in April. Everyone is psyched and doing well, ready for an exciting day of training.
This afternoon we plan on climbing to Ingraham Flats to explore the mountain some and get our feet wet on the lower flanks on our climbing route.
All for now from Camp Muir.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Hello again.
It was a nice warm day here on our final hike to Lukla. We started early to beat the traffic and made good time, yet taking time to enjoy this peaceful and majestic place.
There were still dozens of loads headed for basecamp as always, because much of the needed supplies arrive via plane or from a few days further down hill via mules.
We ran into a few friends including one of RMI's finest guides Mike Haugen, headed up for his second summit.
The entire team is doing well and relieved to be off of our feet for a bit. With a little luck we hope to be back in Kathmandu tomorrow morning.
Keep your fingers crossed for us.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and a happy crew
Hello again everyone!
All is still well here in the Khumbu as the team members made our way back into Namche. It was a super busy day on the trail with climbers, trekkers, yaks, and porters all bound uphill to basecamp. We slowly made our way through the maze of traffic and enjoyed one last good view of Everest.
Along the way we ran into several old friends from my past trips and stopped to wish everyone good luck.
Tomorrow we'll be moving out early on our final leg of the journey back to Lukla. So please keep you fingers crossed we have good weather and can make our flight back to Kathmandu the following morning.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
We left Everest Base Camp today after a very comfortable and enjoyable stay. The team has enjoyed the trek through the Khumbu Valley, but without a doubt, our Base Camp set up had the nicest dining room, cleanest bathroom, and most enjoyable shower we've experienced.
The team enjoyed a few last views of the glacier and surrounding mountains as we retraced our way back down valley, pausing occasionally to allow the Yak trains to pass with their important cargo that will help the Mt. Everest Expeditions succeed.
We hiked for seven hours today and descended more than 3,000' back to Pheriche. Needless to say the team is feeling good and enjoying the thicker air.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
Monday, March 27th, 10:00 pm PST
Hey, everybody this is Casey Grom checking in from Everest Base Camp. Just wanted to let you know that the Base Camp Trek team finally made it into camp yesterday afternoon. We had a nice climb or hike of Kala Patar, which is the high point of our trip, a little over 18,000 feet and then dropped back down and made a three-hour hike into Base Camp behind a long line of about 150 yaks bringing in all the gear and food and things necessary for the expeditions over here this season. Last night the phone was really cold so it didn't hold a charge. I had to get it fired up this morning so we could reach out to you guys and let you know we're doing great. A beautiful sunny day, a little bit windy here today as you can probably hear. The team's doing great, and we just wrapped up a big breakfast of pancakes, bacon, and plenty of coffee. Thankfully our base camp crew just got the nice hot shower operational, and so we're going to take our take our time and let everybody get washed up, cleaned up. If we can we're going to do a short little walk here around camp, and then if all goes well our plan is to have dinner here tonight, spend one more night, and then head back down hill tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
RMI Guide Casey Grom calls in from Everest Base Camp.
Congrats, Linda! Sounds like an amazing trip. We just watched a video on YouTube of a full basecamp trek to get an idea of the experience. Have a safe trip back. -Ben and Jamie.
Posted by: Ben Beckley on 3/29/2017 at 3:14 am
Congratulations to the group on getting to Base Camp. Sounds like a great adventure. Can’t wait to hear all the details and see the photos. Safe travels back down.
Posted by: Neal White Bernie Mahan on 3/28/2017 at 8:19 pm
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Safe travels and have fun!! Doing it in beast mode Rue!!! Good luck to you and your entire team.
Cheers,
Cindee
Posted by: Cindee on 5/5/2017 at 7:59 pm
With you in spirit. Hoping for great weather. Cheers.
Posted by: Chuck H on 5/5/2017 at 2:00 pm
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