Entries from Expedition Dispatches

RMI Guide Lael Butler and a custom client team reached the summit of Mt. Baker via the North Ridge Route—a legendary alpine climb featuring steep ice, exposed ridgelines, and unforgettable views.

Despite some clouds and light winds, the team crushed a two-day push to the top, navigating multiple pitches of alpine ice and snow with skill and determination.

Huge congrats to the climber and guide for an epic ascent of one of the Northwest’s most iconic routes!

This morning at 7:30 AM, the Four Day Climb team led by Casey Grom and Joe Crawford successfully descended from the crater rim of Mount Rainier after a successful summit push. The team was greeted with clear skies, light winds, and ideal climbing conditions.

From the summit, climbers enjoyed expansive views above a lingering marine layer that hovered around 7,600 feet. The contrast between the crystal-clear skies above and the thick cloud cover below created a surreal and breathtaking scene—one of those rare moments that make all the effort worthwhile.

Congratulations to all the climbers on a successful ascent!

Friday, June 27, 2025 10:38 pm PDT

Dispatch 14.2 – Storm Day 2

As forecasted, today was a better day. It was sunny and calm… and we didn’t go climbing. The guide team felt that the recent snowfall needed at least one good sunny day to settle and reduce the avalanche hazard. As it turned out, all other teams on the mountain came to a similar conclusion—no teams moved today.

We ended up making pretty good use of the day, though. We roped up and took a field trip to the Edge of the World! Since we are camped in the middle of a large glacial basin, it’s easy to forget just how high we’ve already climbed. A short walk to the edge is a quick reminder. It was thrilling today to climb a rock at the edge and look down a few thousand feet to the Kahiltna Glacier—where we camped a while back.

Back at camp, Calvin gave a well-received instructional session on avalanche beacons, and Sam put all his culinary skill into boiling water for our freeze-dried dinner.

We hope to carry up onto the Buttress tomorrow.

– RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Friday, June 27, 2025 8:21pm PDT
 

Blog Denali – Day 19

Bonjour à tous!

Today marks day 19 since we all met in Anchorage, and day 17 on the mountain. Since the first week went so well, many of us believed we’d be off this frozen rock after 15 days... However, Mother Nature had different plans for us. I now understand why Denali has such a tough reputation: the freaking weather!

Today is our 10th day at 14k camp, and the 6th day of weather delay. We’ve endured two snowstorms, and the last one—lasting almost 36 hours—brought 40 cm of fresh snow. Although the weather is finally on our side today, we still can’t move due to avalanche hazards.

Over the past week, no one has summited, and the few teams that made it to high camp were stuck in even worse conditions than we’ve experienced. I’m grateful to our responsible and professional guides for making the decision to stay put.

On a more personal note, this has been one of the hardest weeks of my amateur climbing career. I’ve never waited this long in full winter camping mode, with almost nothing to do. Mornings are cold, and many toes in the team are freezing. On top of that, I feel weaker every day at this altitude. I’ve lost weight and am probably missing plenty of essential nutrients like vitamins and soluble fiber. (Also, the fact that I ran out of food and entertainment played a big role—LOL.)

On the bright side, my amazing team is kindly helping me survive—special thanks to Andrew for the Kindle, Tait for two bags of beef jerky, and Mikaila for letting me use her InReach. I’ve also gained valuable experience for future adventures. I’ve learned about clothing layers (my thin ones suck), baby Nalgene bottles, Leuko tape, pressure breathing, how much toilet paper to bring, glacier travel, gnarly supplements, and more.

Overall, it’s amazing that all 9 team members (and 3 guides) are still here, holding onto hope of reaching the summit. We’re also lucky, in a way, to have a weather window this weekend for a summit attempt. Many teams haven’t even gotten that chance this year.

À ma famille et mes amis, j’ai hâte de vous revoir! J’espère que vous passez un beau mois de juin, plus chaud qu’ici! Même si je manque une partie de l’été montréalais, je profite énormément du plein air, et les paysages glaciaires sont à couper le souffle. J’ai hâte de vous montrer les photos! Évidemment, je suis très stressé pour les deux prochains jours... Envoyez-moi des ondes relaxantes, haha!

Étienne XOX

The Four Day Climb led by Jack Delaney and Jackson Breen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning under spectacular conditions. With clear skies above a thick marine layer and light winds of 10–15 mph, the team stood atop the 14,410’ peak, greeted by breathtaking views.

Congratulations to today’s team for a safe and successful ascent!

It snowed continuously through the night and all day. Finally, at six in the evening, it stopped, and we could see a bit more than a hundred feet in any direction. There was never a possibility of climbing today, so we made the best of a storm/rest day by enjoying a slow, leisurely breakfast in our dining tent. Afterward, we dug out the camp, took naps, and read books.

We managed to squeeze in a little training for the “fixed ropes” we hope to climb next. We practiced as the last snow fell and the clouds began to clear. That put us in a good position to witness the event of the day—a big avalanche roaring out of the Messner Couloir on the South Peak. We knew we weren’t in any danger from that particular couloir, but it was still sobering to be engulfed by the powder cloud thrown up by the slide. We’d heard several avalanches over the past 24 hours, but it was thrilling to actually watch one.

As we ate dinner, the clouds continued to melt away, and it was wonderful to be in actual sunshine again. Many of us found it hard to take our eyes off the mountain and all the fresh scars from sliding snow. We hope to climb the West Buttress in the morning, but that will depend on whether the new snow has had enough time to settle.

— RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

EAT.

SNOW.

LAY.

Today, is another rest DAY.

But, tomorrow we will PLAY.

RMI Climber Andrew

Wednesday, June 25, 2025 - 10:19 pm PT

Today, life at 14,200 was pretty easy compared to yesterday.  We had a slow breakfast and then roped up to retrieve our cache down at 13,500 ft.  The day started with a cloud cap on the South Peak. As we went about our business that gradually morphed into cloud everywhere and a snowy day. But our timing was right and we got our work done before the snow.  It only took 20 minutes to walk down to the cache, perhaps another 20 to dig it up and a little more than an hour to climb back up to camp. We were home by a little after noon.  Then it was a tent afternoon while the snow fell.  It was light, but persistent. Still snowing now at 8:40PM but without any wind.  Certainly we’ll hope for some clearing in the night or tomorrow morning.

- RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The June 23 - 26 Four Day Climb is made of climbers associated with Black Diamond Equipment and led by RMI Guide Jess Wedel.  This all women's team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today putting together their skills, training and equipment. Although the forecast was not stellar the team awoke to good conditions with clear skies above and moderate winds.  The cloud deck below sits at around 9,000' but that was not of concern as the team ascended the upper mountain.  Reaching the summit around 7:45 am the team enjoyed a bit of time in the summit crater before starting their descent.  The team will return to Camp Muir for a short stop and then continue the final 4,500' down to Paradise.  Their program will wrap up this afternoon with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.

Congratulations to these Black Diamond Climbers! 

The Four Day Climb June 23 - 26 led by RMI Guide Joe Hoch, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier a little before 7 am today.  Joe reported a light cloud cap on the summit, light to moderate winds from the west and cloud deck below near 9,000'.  Despite a bad weather forecast they were greeted with a perfect morning! The team enjoyed a bit of time in the crater before starting their descent from the crater rim around 7:45 am.  The team is now en route to Camp Muir where they will make a quick stop to rehydrate, refuel and repack before continuing down to Paradise later today.

Nice work team!

PC: Joe Hoch