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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Waiting at High Camp

Saturday, June 19, 2021 - 3:51 pm PT

Today we woke up to snow and wind. We are resting and acclimating today, hoping to climb tomorrow!

RMI Guides JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and the RMI team

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Set Up Camp at the Base of Ski Hill

Saturday, June 19, 2021 - 2:30 pm PT

We woke at 1am this morning and fired up stoves for a quick breakfast and a cup of coffee and then we set off down Heartbreak Hill to the Kahiltna Glacier and up the the base of Ski Hill. By traveling in the wee hours of the morning we were able to take advantage of firm snow conditions and comfortable temperatures for climbing, before the glacier turned into a solar oven.

The traveling was pretty straight forward, climbing over some crevasses and skirting around others. We made quick work of the mission, and four hours after setting out we found ourselves making camp.

After "brunch" we retreated to our tents for some rest and to get out of the searing sun.

We'll stay on the alpine start schedule for now and hope to carry a load of food and fuel up to somewhere close to 10,000' tomorrow before returning back down to our current camp. We'll let you know how it goes.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams Reach the Summit

RMI Teams led by Casey Grom and Jenny Konway reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Scattered clouds and cold temperatures was the report from the upper mountain. The teams are navigating their way down Disappointment Cleaver and will return to Camp Muir.  After a quick break, they will repack their gear and continue their descent to Paradise.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations BB and DA!!

Posted by: Jonnyoro on 6/19/2021 at 1:34 pm

You did it!  Congratulations!

Posted by: Jennifer MacArtney on 6/19/2021 at 9:55 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Together in Talkeetna

Friday, June 18, 2021 - 10:18 pm PT

It is usually a good sign when the easy part goes smooth and easy.  Our team of seven climbers and guides flew in and met up in Alaska without a hitch.  It was cloudy and overcast as we drove up from Anchorage, but not so much that we couldn’t get glimpses of the big mountains up mingling with the cloud tops.  We stopped briefly in Wasilla for a few final provisions from the world of supermarkets, and then cruised on up the Parks Highway to the Talkeetna spur road.  After settling our gear at the airplane hangar and ourselves at the hotel, we braved mosquito hoards and labor shortages to find a fine dinner at the West Rib.  A well-fed climbing team then waddled out to the banks of the great Susitna River to see if the mountains had come out.  Not quite, but we judged it all to be good enough for day one. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Make Summit Attempt, Return to High Camp

Friday, June 18, 2021 - 10:18 pm PT

The team tried to summit today, and as usual we performed like a well oiled machine. Unfortunately we weren’t able to make it to the top due to adverse and unexpected obstacles that again, the team handled exquisitely. We put in a track up to Denali pass and hope to make it up again in the coming days.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Texas taking in oklahoma state

Kevin durant, kevin DURANT, OH KEVIN DURANT…..

Posted by: Digger Phelps on 6/20/2021 at 4:24 pm

Good luck, be safe, and thanks for taking us along!

Posted by: Joe Eley on 6/20/2021 at 4:08 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Retrieve Cache, Enjoy Day at 14,000 Camp

What a day,

Clear skies greeted us this morning creating a very brisk morning. Once again camp was quiet with the cold. As the sun broke over the mountain and warmed camp it became alive. Teams started moving around going various directions whether it was heading toward 17,000' Camp or going down to the 13,500' cache. For us it was going down to our 13,500' cache. We made fast work grabing our gear and getting back to camp. After a lunch break we went for a walk to the Edge of the World. You can see all the way down to our first camp at 7,800'. Its a long fall over the edge but makes for great hero shots. Everyone got belayed onto the rock (much like the rock from lion king) and got great photos, ice axe in hand, big smiles and thousands of feet of relief below them. As for tomorrow we are in a holding pattern with weather and logistics. No matter what we end up doing tomorrow it will be a good day and is all apart of our journey to the top.

All the best,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Julia—You are our HERO . only you can reach for the stars.  Happy 20th on the 20- My 80th Bday is also today. Ricardo y Norita - Tio Richard.

Posted by: Ricardo J Ferro on 6/21/2021 at 7:06 am

Happy 20th birthday to my amazing & brave niece, Julia! You are beautiful inside and out! Love you so much!
Poupou

Posted by: Poupou on 6/20/2021 at 2:23 pm


Mt. Rainier: Teams Summit!

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Taylor Bickford and Joe Hoch, reached the summit!  They reported nice route conditions but windy and cold temps this morning.  The teams are currently on their descent back to Camp Muir and we look forward to congratulating them this afternoon.

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My son climbed today with this group.  So proud that he fullfilled one of his dreams.  Great job see you this afternoon!! Dad and I love you.  Thanks to the great leadership for the team.

Posted by: Nancy Hanson on 6/19/2021 at 5:46 am

Congrats!  Say hi to Lindsay Boo Kibler .

Posted by: Steve Kibler on 6/18/2021 at 2:52 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Fly to Kahiltna Base Camp

Friday, June 18, 2021 - 8:43 am PT

Good morning from Kahiltna Base Camp. We were packed and ready to fly all day yesterday, but the weather wouldn't cooperate with our plans. After playing the waiting game for most of the day, we finally loaded up the two turbine Otters and launched towards the Alaska Range. We arrived at Basecamp at around 6pm and set up shop here. We'll spend the day here today and move to the Base of Ski Hill tonight when the snow freezes back up.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Praying for safety. Thanks for the update!! Rob, Dad got your postcard today and was thrilled to hear from you. Praying you all make it to the Summit!

Posted by: Marg Millman on 6/22/2021 at 6:25 pm

Miss you Daryl! Looking forward to the updates! Everyone asking about you everyday

Posted by: Katie on 6/21/2021 at 11:02 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Snow Overnight Prompt Rest Day at 14,000 Camp

Thursday, June 17, 2021 - 10:02 pm PT

Howdy all,

The snow continued through the night and into the morning. A layer of frost coated the under side of the fly. Every time you hit the tent to knock the snow off, the frost fell down onto our sleeping bags. As the sun came out and warmed the tents, the ice melted and the frost turned into little water drops. Due to the snowfall and wet tents, we opted for a rest day to allow everything to get dry. Snow fell most of the day, sometimes while sunny others fully cloudy making for a very white scene. But later in the day the clouds cleared and the views were amazing. Having such great views makes being patient worth it. The temps bounced from chilly to very hot in the tents all day. One could swear it was 100 degrees inside. They say its freeze or fry out here and we can all feel why. Tomorrow's weather looks good, so we will be going to our cache at 13,500' to grab our stuff. Its exciting to be reunited with your snacks you parted ways with at 11,000' camp. Sleeping bags are calling our names.

Till tomorrow,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith

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Wishing you all the Best Hannah and Dustin!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/19/2021 at 3:32 am

These updates are the highlight of my day, you truly give us perspective on the tremendous feat you have all undertaken and prepared for.  Putting it out to the universe for great weather to make the summit happen. The pictures are amazing, keep them coming! I love my Lu, what a golden birthday this is!!!!

Posted by: Daysi on 6/18/2021 at 3:58 pm


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Wait for Weather Window

Thursday, June 17, 2021 1:33 pm PT

This morning we woke up to a foot of new snow and the winds have been blowing 30 mph all day, which is slightly unpleasant but what we expected. There is a lot of strategy in expedition climbing, and this plan is part of that. We got up to 17,000' camp yesterday knowing it would not be possible today, and now we are in position to take advantage of tomorrow’s supposed high pressure.

Send good thoughts our way for good weather tomorrow!

RMI Guides JT, Alan, Kirra and the RMI team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Vano, when you shotgun a beer at the summit, have you thought about the pressure change and how that beer may just buss everywhere? Please get back to me

-Heater

Posted by: Heater on 6/18/2021 at 5:10 am

Sending good thoughts!

Posted by: Ann on 6/17/2021 at 6:49 pm

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