Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Attempt to Fly

May 11, 2019

Posted by: Mike Walter, Alan Davis, Alex Halliday

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

We loaded our on two de Haviland Otter turbo prop single engine airplanes this morning and took off for Kahiltna Base Camp. The flight over the tundra was beautiful as we soared beneath a low ceiling of clouds. As we approached the range it became apparent that our normal access points of One Shot and Second Shot Passes were not options due to the low clouds. So the pilots opted to try "the long way", which means accessing the Kahiltna glacier at its toe and following it up toward Base Camp. The problem was that as we gained elevation on the glacier the cloud did not, and eventually we were flying in the cloud, a thick pea soup, with very little visibility. So the team of K2 pilots made the prudent decision to turn around and head back for Talkeetna. We spent the rest of the day on stand by to see if weather would improve. It did not, and in fact it deteriorated a little. We'll play the same game tomorrow, with a less than ideal forecast. The good news is that high pressure looks to be moving our way soon! RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good prudent decision of the K2 pilots. Thanks for keeping it safe. Hope the high pressure comes in with better weather.

Posted by: Susan Royce on 5/11/2019 at 6:31 pm

Clouds be gone!

Posted by: Mike Watt on 5/11/2019 at 12:57 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach Summit

May 11, 2019

Posted by: Robby Young, Ben Liken

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Robby Young and Ben Liken led the May 8 - 11 Four Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Climbing conditions were good with lots of climbers on the mountain. The weather is beautiful with warm temperatures and clear skies. Once back at Camp Muir the teams will continue down to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp. Congratulations to today's climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

This was a great experience for me and my two boys, that we will never forget. Our team of climbers was made up of a great mix of people who all came together to get to the top. I’m proud have climbed with you guys and you’ve inspired me to be better.

On the guides; A thing I learned very early in my Marine Corps career was how to spot professionalism and raw, unfiltered competence. This is especially important when serving in a combat zone. You learn quick to spot people who know what the hell they are talking about because lives and mission rest on it. From the very first meeting it was very obvious to me that Rob, Josh and Chad had this talent in abundance and it became even more evident on the mountain. Thanks guys, you humbled this old Jarhead (not easy, lol), with your knowledge, physical ability and spot on climbing guidance.

I hope we get to climb together again soon

Semper Fi

Paul

PS: Tell Josh I’m working on my walking skills and hope to cut my future descent trip/falling to less than 10 per mile. ;).

Posted by: Paul Roarke on 5/14/2019 at 6:36 am

Incredible experience!! So proud to climb alongside such an awesome team and couldn’t have asked for better guides. Miss everyone already :) Thanks for everything!!

Posted by: Anna Dooner on 5/13/2019 at 7:51 pm

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Kicking Off The 2019 Alaska Season

May 10, 2019

Posted by: Mike Walter, Alan Davis, Alex Halliday

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

The 2019 Denali climbing season is getting under way. Our team met this morning for breakfast at the historic Talkeetna Roadhouse for heaping servings of eggs and sourdough hotcakes. After breakfast we strolled down to the Susitna River where chunks of recently broken up ice flowed out from the direction of the Alaska Range. On a clear day we would be able to see Denali from here, but our view was obscured by clouds. Next up was a trip the National Park Service office for a pre-trip orientation. We went over specifics of the route as well as safety issues and environmental stewardship responsibilities we climbers have in keeping the mountain clean. The rest of the day was the meat and potatoes, where we headed to the K2 Aviation hangar to sort our gear and food to be prepared to fly into the range, hopefully tomorrow. We'll keep you posted with our status... RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go get’em Kelby!

Posted by: Mike Potter on 5/13/2019 at 9:28 am

Wishing the first team of the season an awesome weather and an unforgettable experience! I’ll follow your footprints in a few weeks!!!

Posted by: Anna on 5/11/2019 at 10:10 am

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Mt. Rainier: Hahn & Knoff on Top!

May 10, 2019

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Adam Knoff

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Mt. Rainier Five Day Summit Climb stood on the summit earlier this morning. The teams, led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Adam Knoff, experienced a bluebird day with what seems to be endless views from the highest point in Washington. Both teams began their descent around 8:20 am PT. We look forward to congratulating them back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats to all on a successful summit! Each trip report I read deepens my desire to attempt the summit myself. Someday.

Posted by: Greg on 5/11/2019 at 9:14 pm

Never get tired of seeing Hahn and Knoff celebrating a summit. Way to go!!

Posted by: Jane Knoff on 5/10/2019 at 9:47 am

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Mt. Rainier: May 8th Summit!

May 8, 2019

Posted by: Brent Okita, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Bryan Mazaika reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Brent reported clear skies, but a constant wind of about 35 mph keeping the temperatures cool. Congratulations to Today's Team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to all. What an accomplishment. And you all did not have to suffer this heat wave in Seattle.

Posted by: Mac Fletcher on 5/10/2019 at 9:45 pm

Congrats team!! A beautiful start to the climbing season onRainier. Way to go Brent Okita! On his way to 600!! :)

Posted by: Larry Schultz on 5/9/2019 at 8:01 am

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Mt. Rainier: Okita & Mazaika Take Their Teams to Ingraham Flats for Acclimatization

May 7, 2019

Posted by: Brent Okita, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,000'

Our hike up to Camp Muir yesterday was beautiful. The nicest day of the season! This morning we climbed the first 1,000' of the route to Ingraham Flats as part of our acclimatization for the climb. Reports from other guides suggest our route is the nicest, most direct route we could ask for. We're all excited! We'll have a meeting to go over preparations for the climb tonight then get to bed before our pre-dawn departure. Wish us well. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Bryan Mazaika and the crew at Muir

Mt. Baker: Gorum & Team Summit Mt. Baker and Enjoy Ski Descent

May 5, 2019

Posted by: JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 10,781'

RMI Guide JM Gorum and the May 3 - 5, 2019 Mt. Baker Summit and Ski Descent checked in from camp this afternoon. The team enjoyed a beautiful day on the mountain with 100% of the team reaching the summit. They enjoyed the views from the summit before pointing their skis downhill and enjoyed some awesome skiing. They reached camp in under an hour. The group will pack up camp and continue to the trail head later this afternoon. Congratulations to the Mt. Baker team!

MT. Rainier: May 3rd Summit!

May 4, 2019

Posted by: Robby Young, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Five Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Robby Young and Andy Bond reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Andy reported clear skies, light winds and cool temperatures. The route is in great condition, the team took just under five hours to reach the summit. Congratulations to today's team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations. What an accomplishment!

Posted by: Mac on 5/10/2019 at 9:39 pm

Words are inadequate to express how truly proud we are of you and your team on this amazing accomplishment!! Unbelievable you were even able to reach the summit. We are in awe of the feat you and your team achieved. God Bless You!!

Posted by: Uncle Gary and Aunt Roe on 5/5/2019 at 11:53 am

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Starts Off the 2019 Climbing Season

April 29, 2019

Posted by: Brent Okita, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,000'

What a few days it's been. After a productive and fun day at our climbing school on Saturday we were excited about the perfect day we had yesterday for our hike up to Camp Muir. At times it was almost too hot as the sun's radiation backed. But we all persevered and made it to Camp Muir doing well. Unfortunately, today we received some bad news when the guides kicking in the route discovered a crevasse preventing forward progress up to the higher reaches of the mountain. That, coupled with some not insignificant avalanche hazard from a couple of unexpected evening snow storms has forced us to temper our ambitions for the summit this go around. While disappointed, the team was understanding and in full agreement that getting down safe and sound was our priority. While a handful of folks opted to descend to the comforts of life at sea level, the rest of us explored the upper mountain as much as we could and had a great day enjoying the glaciers and crevasses of Mt Rainier. Later, as the now normal afternoon snow storm continues to dump snow at Muir here, we're passing the afternoon and evening talking about mountains, climbing and the tall tales that take root in such firmament. We're planning on an early departure tomorrow morning when we hope the skies will have cleared and the sun will shine on our descent. See you soon. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Dustin Wittmier, James Bealer and the team

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar continue training at Camp Muir

April 19, 2019

Posted by: Brent Okita, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,080'

The storm hitting us at Camp Muir originated in the tropics and we wouldn't have been surprised to see palm fronds waving in the breeze given how unseasonably warm it is up here. Yes, it's still snowing, but just. And for being at 10,000' that's warm! We started our day discussing numerous topics in the Bunkhouse, but ventured out by mid morning. Equipped though we were with full on Gortex storm gear it took less than an hour for the moisture in the cloud enveloping our world to permeate the vaunted membrane of our rain gear. But we persevered and got some great training in, developing our expertise in handling running belays and evaluating snow stability through studying snow pits. Lunchtime found us back inside, thankful for the plywood protection of our bunkhouse and trying to dry out our external layers through our bodies natural internal combustion. It does work, but slowly. There was plenty to talk about through the afternoon, and when queried whether anyone wanted more outdoor training a decided no was the response. A smart group! The evening culminated with war stories of Everest and beyond. Now that we're back in our old sleeping bags the weather gods are unleashing a tempest like no other. All we can hope is that this big bad storm is blowing itself out. Dreams of a pleasant descent tomorrow morning might allow some well deserved sleep tonight. Goodnight from Camp Muir. RMI Guide Brent Okita

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Attempt to Fly

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach Summit

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Kicking Off The 2019 Alaska Season

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Hahn & Knoff on Top!

Mt. Rainier: May 8th Summit!

Mt. Rainier: Okita & Mazaika Take Their Teams to Ingraham Flats for Acclimatization

Mt. Baker: Gorum & Team Summit Mt. Baker and Enjoy Ski Descent

MT. Rainier: May 3rd Summit!

Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Starts Off the 2019 Climbing Season

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar continue training at Camp Muir

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