Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Brent Okita, Bryan Mazaika
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,000'
What a few days it's been. After a productive and fun day at our climbing school on Saturday we were excited about the perfect day we had yesterday for our hike up to Camp Muir. At times it was almost too hot as the sun's radiation backed. But we all persevered and made it to Camp Muir doing well.
Unfortunately, today we received some bad news when the guides kicking in the route discovered a crevasse preventing forward progress up to the higher reaches of the mountain. That, coupled with some not insignificant avalanche hazard from a couple of unexpected evening snow storms has forced us to temper our ambitions for the summit this go around.
While disappointed, the team was understanding and in full agreement that getting down safe and sound was our priority.
While a handful of folks opted to descend to the comforts of life at sea level, the rest of us explored the upper mountain as much as we could and had a great day enjoying the glaciers and crevasses of Mt Rainier. Later, as the now normal afternoon snow storm continues to dump snow at Muir here, we're passing the afternoon and evening talking about mountains, climbing and the tall tales that take root in such firmament.
We're planning on an early departure tomorrow morning when we hope the skies will have cleared and the sun will shine on our descent.
See you soon.
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Dustin Wittmier, James Bealer and the team
Posted by: Brent Okita, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
The storm hitting us at Camp Muir originated in the tropics and we wouldn't have been surprised to see palm fronds waving in the breeze given how unseasonably warm it is up here. Yes, it's still snowing, but just. And for being at 10,000' that's warm!
We started our day discussing numerous topics in the Bunkhouse, but ventured out by mid morning. Equipped though we were with full on Gortex storm gear it took less than an hour for the moisture in the cloud enveloping our world to permeate the vaunted membrane of our rain gear.
But we persevered and got some great training in, developing our expertise in handling running belays and evaluating snow stability through studying snow pits. Lunchtime found us back inside, thankful for the plywood protection of our bunkhouse and trying to dry out our external layers through our bodies natural internal combustion. It does work, but slowly.
There was plenty to talk about through the afternoon, and when queried whether anyone wanted more outdoor training a decided no was the response. A smart group!
The evening culminated with war stories of Everest and beyond.
Now that we're back in our old sleeping bags the weather gods are unleashing a tempest like no other. All we can hope is that this big bad storm is blowing itself out. Dreams of a pleasant descent tomorrow morning might allow some well deserved sleep tonight.
Goodnight from Camp Muir.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Posted by: Brent Okita, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,000'
Everyone is doing great on day four of our seminar. A hard day up to Muir was followed by a full day of training on Tuesday in increasingly challenging weather conditions.
Today dawned sunny but quite windy. As forecasted, the winds stayed strong throughout the day. Not being one to let a little wind get in the way of some great training, we did have to moderate our plans to cope with the 40-45 mph sheets of blowing snow that swept thru Muir all day.
Sticking close to camp allowed us to bail back to the bunkhouse for the occasional break. There were no complaints about not getting out on the glacier for the day. An earlier exploration by Mike and me proved the winds were just as strong out there as at camp.
Anchors, crevasse rescue, fixed rope work and rappelling filled the day completely. And for the evening: mountain medicine and mountain weather is on the docket.
We're looking forward to another good day of training tomorrow, though we might have to deal with another little storm to keep us honest.
Alas, I'm afraid a summit bid has been shelved due to the increasing avalanche hazard up high. We're safe here at camp, and that's how we'd like to keep it.
All for now.
The crew at Muir
Posted by: Brent Okita, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
RMI Guides Brent Okita and Mike King are back on Mt. Rainier along with climbers on the Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter. The team gathered at Rainier BaseCamp on Sunday for a day of technical training, gear checks and packing. With clear roads on Monday morning they headed for Paradise and made the push all the way to Camp Muir. Today the team trained near Camp Muir with cramponing, rope travel and ice axe arrest practice while Brent and RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli kicked in the route above Camp Muir and investigated the current conditions. The team will continue training this week with the hope of making a summit attempt before their return on Friday.
Wow such beautiful pictures. Thank you for the update!
Posted by: Lisa Macchione on 4/16/2019 at 5:43 pm
Posted by: Christina Dale
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche
Elevation: 9,350'
A huge congratulations to this team for completing the Everest Base Camp Trek and Lobuche climb today. This has been an amazing and challenging expedition. We have seen the cutest red cheeked children, the world's highest mountains, and some good looking chocolate cake slices. We are fortunate to have embarked on this adventure and learned more about the world, one another, and ourselves.
As we pulled into Lukla this evening, after many miles and long days, I realized how grateful I am for the positive energy of this team and the Nepali people who supported us along the way. We passed Zopkeos and porters with huge loads on their backs all working to make the trekker's and climber's experiences more enjoyable with coca cola, clean towels, and so much more. Sometimes people come to Nepal for the mountains, but the generosity and hospitality of the Nepali people is what everyone remembers.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Posted by: Christina Dale
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche
Elevation: 11,300'
We are all getting tattoos of our favorite part of Nepal. A large hairy yak, a momo, and the summit of Lobuche. Forever, permanently inked on us. April fools.
The truth is we had a huge day today and walked all the way from Lobuche to Namche. 44,800 steps said one phone. A long day. But now we are all fed and happy here in Namche Bazaar.
Tomorrow we will leave the mountain country and head down to the Dudh Kosi River crossing 11 suspension bridges on our way back to Lukla.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Posted by: Christina Dale
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche
Elevation: 20,075'
Congratulations to the strong and determined team for reaching the summit of Lobuche this morning at 11:30am (Nepal Standard Time). They earned every step to 20,000 feet in the Himalayas!
RMI Guide Christina Dale
So proud of you Michael and Bruce! Love you and miss you dearly Michael. Xoxo
Posted by: Rebekah Holman on 4/1/2019 at 8:50 am
Congrats! This is an incredible and amazing accomplishment! It looks like all those OTF double sessions paid off (Sherry and Ed). Safe travels back to us. Love you guys! xo
Posted by: Colleen on 3/31/2019 at 6:13 pm
Posted by: Christina Dale
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche
Elevation: 17,716'
We are perched high above the Khumbu Glacier watching the clouds roll by. The hike to high camp was short but a challenging rocky scramble. Unfortunately, some of our team had to make the hardest decision in mountaineering and head downhill today. The health gods are not on our side this climb and a bad cough has hit us. Making the right decision in the mountains is always the safe decision. We are so proud as a team to have made it to Everest Basecamp together as one of the many highlights of the trip. The rest of us have fingers crossed for good weather for our alpine start and climb tomorrow.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Good luck on the climb today! Stay safe and kick butt!
Posted by: Jordan Vanek on 3/30/2019 at 11:17 pm
Back safe and sound in Kathmandu!
Well all most!
Managed to get the team out of Lukla by the skin of our teeth. Sadly I wasn’t able to join them, only eight helicopter seats available for the nine of us.
Hopefully tomorrow I’ll be able to join the crew.
I’m sure everyone is enjoying the comforts at the Yak & Yeti Hotel, hot showers, good food, and the warm temps.
It's been one amazing adventure with a great team and it will be sad to say goodbye, but we are all looking forward to getting back home to our loved ones.
Thanks for following.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and a happy crew
Posted by: Christina Dale
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche
Elevation: 17,716'
Hey, this is Christina Dale and team on Lobuche at high camp. We got up here today. Our Sherpas have set up a nice dining tent, a good cook set up and we are eating well. We did some training and we're hoping to get a little break in the weather and give the climb a go in the morning. Wish us luck.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
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RMI Guide Christina Dale checks in from Lobuche.
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Words cannot adequately express how proud and excited we are for you and your team on this amazing accomplishment. You even were able to reach the summit!!
God Bless You!
Posted by: Uncle Gary & Aunt Roe on 5/5/2019 at 10:41 am
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