Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Summit Climbs on Top!

June 10, 2017

Posted by: Eric Frank, Tyler Reid

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Eric Frank and Ty Reid, reached the summit at 8:00 this morning. It is a beautiful but chilly morning. After spending some time on top, the teams began their descent at 9:00 a.m. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team on Their Descent

June 10, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

June 10, 2017 12:07 am PST It was a day of decisions. The team sadly broke apart today, with the main group heading down, and two strong and driven individuals opting to stay on the mountain to give 'er another try. Caught in the middle I was torn between sticking with the two and going for the summit, or sticking with the main part of the team. After anguishing over the decision, I chose to finish off the expedition with the team, rather than lead our two erstwhile members to the top. A sketchy forecast helped me in my decision, and I think my two climbers will have a better chance of summiting with the groups I left them with. They'll be joining Tyler and Jake's teams, who have a bit more time than I to wait for good weather. So here we are, in our tents at 11,200' camp waiting for the night to referee the glacier so we can travel over its frozen surface to minimize the risk of crevasse falls that have been occurring much more than normal lately. It's sad separating from our two teammates, and leaving the mountain without a summit under our belts. For me it's been twenty five trips since I've not summited. But folks are in good spirits. I think we all really appreciate the time we've spent here, the friendships developed, the hard times as well as the fun times. In two hours we awaken for one last day on the glacier. That is, as long as the air service can pick us up in the morning. With any luck, next time I chat with you I'll have had a shower, eaten a big ol' steak and perhaps consumed an adult beverage or two. Good night from 11,200'. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

who are the two going for the summit?

Posted by: win smith sr on 6/12/2017 at 10:21 am

Team - Sorry that you did not summit but congratulations on such strong climbing and a great adventure. Many people have been rooting for you and continue to do so. Descend safely and enjoy your return to civilization. Ken

Posted by: Ken Porrello on 6/11/2017 at 5:12 am

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb the Lost Marsupial Route

June 10, 2017

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

June 10, 2017 12:02 am PST Good eve from camp! We just got back from a stellar day on The Throne, one of the dominant peaks around Little Swiss. We ventured up the "Lost Marsupial" Route, and these folks climbed it (up and down) in a record time for this guide's third year coming here! A bit of rain threatened us and we considered bailing, but soon it ceased and we finished our objective. The cloudy skies provided an incredible light tone that made our pictures sure look surreal. Upon arrival to camp, steak dinner was prepared, and a good night's sleep awaits. Stay tuned for more, RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Storm Day at 14K Camp

June 10, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 9, 2017 11:40 pm PST The team held at 14 Camp another day while it snowed most of the day. There wasn't much action outside of the tents minus some shoveling around camp and playing some games under shelter in the kitchen or as we call it the "posh." The team is still doing well and spirits are high as the weekend outlook is still calling for more snow and high winds. We've been keeping a close eye on our dwindling food bags but some easy rationing has us feeling that we still have enough time to wait for the next weather window. Thanks for some of the previous blog comments, we've shared them with the team. Send us some calm, sunny weather! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Tym, Tyler, and Team,

There must be a break-down because I have been sending you calm, warm weather…it is obviously not arriving. There must be a large, lost package at the post office. So sorry. I will continue to try at this end and wish you all the best. Stay strong and enthusiastic.

The Cavs beat the Warriors 137-116 last night, so with the Warriors ahead at 3-1, it is back to Oakland for another game on Monday night.

And Tym, Satoshi says, $2921.00!!

Love Mom and Zeppelin

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/10/2017 at 8:04 pm

Matt and team,

Hanging in there. Sunny and hot in Michigan this weekend. Will send some your way. Praying weather clears up soon!! Stay safe.

Love, Mom

Posted by: Barb McAllister on 6/10/2017 at 9:18 am

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Train at 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2017

Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 9, 2017 Today we enjoyed a little bit of sleeping in before a solid brunch. The weather has been persnickety of late, but our team is handling the storm well, fortifying camp at 14,000' and swapping stories in our cook tent. Naps are a big part of the downtime as we wait for a chance to move higher. Yesterday we went for a training mission to hone our skills for the fixed lines and everyone did a great job, passing their rope skills test with flying colors. Cross your fingers for some good weather for us! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Lindsay - hope you are having the time of your life! It seems like weather is not cooperating but I am sure it will turn around. Hang in there!

Posted by: Manish on 6/10/2017 at 4:08 pm

Steve, We are in awe watching you and your team embrace this journey.You are all truly amazing!! Hang in there man…you are living the dream…We love you and can’t wait to see, hug , and have a very expensive bottle of wine and dinner with you!! Stay safe all. Ruth and Mike

Posted by: Mike and Ruth on 6/10/2017 at 2:51 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on Top!

June 9, 2017

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Mike King led their Four Day Summit Climb June 6 - 9 Teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams ascended to Camp Muir yesterday in wet conditions so we were glad to hear that the weather had improved for their summit day. After enjoying some time in the crater the teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I was part of the team that past you yesterday on the snowfield in the rain storm. Felt so bad for you guys. I was soaked. But to see that you made it gives me great joy. Congrats!! I am so happy for you!!

Posted by: Joe Seguin on 6/9/2017 at 9:06 pm

Congratulations to our friend we met at the Missoula gas station.

Posted by: Dorothy M Hammons on 6/9/2017 at 1:46 pm

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Retreat to 14K Camp

June 9, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 9, 2017 12:55 a.m. PT Every fifteen minutes another gust would pummel the side of the tent. Of course, it would have to be on my side. The moisture inside our precious shelter, frozen to the walls of the tent would fall on us with each gust, forcing us deeper into our bed of down. Day five at 17,200' turned in to a real doozy. The forecasts have actually been fairly good lately, and no good news was to be had with the latest issued. In fact, a high wind alert was posted for the upcoming four days with winds into the sixties. This had camp on edge, including my wise assistants Christina and JT, upon whom I rely so heavily to help make our trip the best and safest, My initial optimism that the weather would surely improve with time was tempered by the latest info coming out. A decision to retreat to the relative safety, protection and comfort of 14,200' camp was made by all in camp, even though the strong winds are cause for concern as we need to navigate the technical terrain of the West Buttress. Taking down tents and packing up went well even in those conditions, a testament of the ability of our veteran and tested team. The climb down to camp went well, besides the inevitable traffic of perhaps fifty people leaving camp simultaneously. To our delight, the RMI teams at 14,200' got into our cache and had camp all set up for us when we pulled in, What incredible work, A huge THANKS to [url=https://www.rmiguides.com/blog/expedition/denali_5_23_17/desc]https://www.rmiguides.com/blog/expedition/denali_5_23_17/desc[/url], Jake and their teams!!! So now, at day 19 we have a number of folks feeling the pull of home and a life put on hold while we take part in this incredible experience. A couple of others are still excited to finish off the climb and willing to put in a few more days. An updated forecast in the morning might help us see if we actually have a realistic chance of getting a good enough break on the weather in a few days time. We'll make some final decisions in the morning, but right now we might not even have good enough weather to leave camp. Goodnight from 14,200' camp (revisited), RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Dear Alex,
“Nevertheless, she persisted…”
Keep strong and safe, team.
Jasmin

Posted by: Jasmin on 6/10/2017 at 6:38 am

Hello Mountain Friends! So sorry that I couldn’t join the climb at the last minute this year. Everything has resolved itself with my family’s health issues, but it was necessary to stay here. While I have been very disappointed that I can’t be climbing with you, I have been following the blog entries about your progress with enthusiasm, and am impressed with the tough resolve that you have all exhibited as you’ve faced the various challenges on the mountain. I truly hope that the weather relents and gives you all a well-deserved shot at the summit in the next few days! Best of luck and stay safe everyone. I hope to climb with you all at some point on down the road. -William

Posted by: William Kenyon on 6/9/2017 at 6:59 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Relax at 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 8, 2017 Today was another relaxed day! The crew played more corn hole and we learned a new old game from Amir and Nima. The winds were cooking this morning. The signs of uphill progress were not looking hot. The team is bonding and has high spirits for sticking out the unsettled and likely stormy weather the next few days. Brent's RMI team descended to 14,000' to skip the bad weather up high. The guides put some strong work into helping them set up camp and make water for them. Tomorrow will likely bring more laughter and good times maybe some laps around camp, we'll see. The weather has to break at some point! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Matt,
I hope you’re well up there and that you’re getting some good use out of my favorite down slippers. Enjoy the rest of your time on the mountain and take lots of pictures. It looks amazing and I can’t wait to hear your stories.

If by chance you start to miss me… Just remember every time you look up at the moon, I too will be looking at a moon. Not the same moon, obviously, that’s impossible.

Love, Colleen

Posted by: Colleen on 6/9/2017 at 4:24 pm

Hope weather breaks real soon! We want you to come home soon! Stay safe!

Posted by: Kathy Healy on 6/9/2017 at 3:09 pm

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Fly into the Alaska Mountains

June 8, 2017

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Good evening from the Pika Glacier! We flew in yesterday on schedule, and continued with a busy afternoon of camp building for what's going to be home for the next week. We woke to warm temperatures that made the forecasted precipitation fall in the shape of rain, which kept us tent grounded for the morning. A beautiful afternoon provided a good review of skills, and the motivation is high for our first venture into the nearby formations tomorrow. Stay tuned for more! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Unable to Summit

June 8, 2017

Posted by: Casey Grom, Paul Rachele

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

RMI Guides Casey Grom & Paul Rachele led their Four Day Summit Climb June 5 - 8, 2017 up to Camp Muir yesterday under beautiful blue skies. Unfortunately the weather changed last night bringing rain and snow to Mt. Rainier which prevented today's climbs from making their summit attempt. The teams will descend to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp later today.

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Summit Climbs on Top!

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team on Their Descent

On The Map

Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb the Lost Marsupial Route

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Storm Day at 14K Camp

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Train at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on Top!

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Retreat to 14K Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Relax at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Fly into the Alaska Mountains

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Unable to Summit

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