Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, June 23, 2021 - 9:54 pm PT
Hello hello,
There isnt a lot to report today. It was another chill day, hanging around our camp. We watched other teams do their carries or move into camp. More teams have arrived at 14,000' Camp. Everyone is trying to get in a good position for the next snow storm. During dinner the winds picked up and snow began to fall. The sound of the snow on the tents is a nice lull to fall asleep too. More snow is expected for tomorrow, so we will be hanging around camp again. Still patient. Still waiting. But our time will come. For now we are all snuggled into our sleeping bags, warming up our sleeping space.
Goodnight all,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Posted by: Mike Walter, Nikki Champion, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, June 23, 2021 - 5:55 pm PT
The alpenglow was serene early this morning as we fired up the stoves to make hot water for breakfast. We got off to an early start and loaded up our packs with food and fuel to cache up high. Armed with crampons and ice axes we ventured onto the upper mountain. We climbed Motorcycle Hill and then Squirrel Hill in the shade, encountering a chilly breeze on the latter. Next came the Polo Field and then we finally hit the sun at Windy Corner. Our team made good progress and the weather was perfect, so we continued higher to Genet Basin to make our cache. We were afforded beautiful views of the upper mountain, as well as Mounts Hunter & Foraker and the rest of the Alaska Range to our south, and the expansive tundra to our north.
We buried our supplies in the snow and then descended back to camp, arriving before 3pm with enough time for a siesta before dinner.
We're sitting pretty now, with a cache up high. We'll take a rest day tomorrow, which coincides well with an approaching storm. Once that storm passes we plan to move camp up to 14k on the next good weather day. In the meantime we're tasked with resting, eating, reading, and some well earned sloth time. We acclimate very well at this altitude (11,200'), and we're very satisfied with our progress. We'll check in again tomorrow in between the chapters of our books.
Posted by: Taylor Bickford, Henry Coppolillo, Stephen Inman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
The Mt. Baker Coleman-Deming Climb team June 21 - 23 reached the summit of Mt. Baker this morning around 7:30 am. RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo checked in to let us know the team has returned to camp and will pack up their tents and gear and continue their descent to the trail head, completing their program later this afternoon.
Congratulations to all the climbers!
Woohoo, it was a great day on the mountain! Plenty of sun and clear views - thanks team!
Posted by: Matt Byrne on 6/24/2021 at 2:46 pm
Congratulations to everyone on reaching the summit!
Posted by: Tracey Inman on 6/24/2021 at 12:49 am
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
Yesterday we got to the air strip nice and early. We arrived at the Kahiltna Glacier air strip at 7 am after a long trip down from 17,000' Camp. Unfortunately the weather was not conducive to flying until 6:30 pm, but we made it off! The team was excited to get back to Talkeetna and enjoy hot showers and food. Now everyone is working their way back home. It’s been a successful Denali expedition and thanks so much for following along!
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the Denali team
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Matt McEttrick
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 9,800'
Wednesday, June 23, 2021
At 2:30 this morning, things looked pretty optimal for moving on up the hill. There were still clouds coming and going, but the glacier surface had frozen up nicely and there wasn’t much for wind. We dressed up, ate, packed up and got moving by just after 5 AM. Ski Hill needed climbing. Definitely tougher terrain to move on than yesterday’s level stretches, but far fewer crevasses to deal with. One hour took us halfway up, a second hour brought us to the flat at 9,000 ft and a final pull got the team onto the rolling plateau at 9,500 ft. We were plotting out a new camp in the snow by 8:35, just before the sun hit the upper reaches of the Kahiltna Glacier. It was pleasantly colder in our new home… just the way it should be. We hope that any storms will now be snow rather than rain, but we shall see. One is forecasted for tomorrow. We may have to wait it out here, but our hope is to sneak up to 11,000 tomorrow morning before it hits. We rested away the afternoon as the clouds built up. Even with them we enjoyed some views far down the glacier. Not quite to its terminus 44 miles away, but in the neighborhood for sure. Dinner was devoured in our comfy dining tent on benches cut in the snow. All are feeling good and pulling strong.
Best Regards,
It's a beautiful day to be in the mountains and the Five Day Climb teams took full advantage. RMI Guides Casey Grom & Alex Halliday led their teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning, reaching the crater rim just after 5 am. Blue skies, lights winds and good route conditions were the theme today. The group will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise later today.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Congratulations to you all‼️
Especially to my son, Chris Cornue❣️
Continue the success….the triumph….the journey…..
AND ENJOY the beauty❣️
Posted by: Pam Best on 6/27/2021 at 3:53 pm
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,410'
Tuesday, June 22, 2021 - 11:22 pm PT
Hi,
Patience and more patience. Every day we look at the forecast and wonder how accurate will it be. Is the weather system going to happen or will it be nice out. Its a part of expedition life that is difficult. When do we move? Is this our time? Does it get better or worse? But no one truly knows. Its all in retrospect that we deliberate the decision and know the answer. So we wait. We wait for a forecast that is better than marginal. We have plenty of food and fuel to see if the winds will get better in the next handful of days. Patience is key. In due time it will be our moment, so we wait.
Good night,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Hector,
Fidel is excited to hear about your every elevation gain. He says “Dad, I really love you. I hope you be safe.”
Xoxo,
Anna
Posted by: Anna Haring on 6/23/2021 at 6:43 pm
WOW! Photos spectacular!
Thinking of you all the time on this terrific journey! So proud of the whole team!
Love you Beej!
Mom
Posted by: Judy collins on 6/23/2021 at 3:46 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter, Nikki Champion, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Tuesday, June 22, 2021 - 4:45 pm PT
We "slept in" to a normal hour today; being up at 11,200' we no longer have to be on an alpine start schedule, traveling at night when the glaciers are frozen. The sky was clear above us as I fired the stoves at 6am, and clouds filled the glacial valleys below. After coffee and a Pop Tart, we headed back downhill to retrieve the cache of supplies we buried a couple of days ago. A quick jaunt downhill and forty minutes of climbing back up hill, and we were back at camp with all of ours supplies. We enjoyed a big leisurely brunch of eggs, hash browns, bacon, and, of course, more coffee. Meanwhile the clouds that had been below us earlier had risen up to our level and it began to lightly snow. That was fine by us, as the rest of the day we lounged in our tents, resting, napping, and reading.
If the weather cooperates, we plan to put in a cache up above Windy Corner tomorrow, somewhere above ~13,600'.
We'll be in touch tomorrow and let you you know how it goes.
I am following to see progress, my good friend Rob Millman is part of this adventure.
Posted by: Anthony Walker on 6/24/2021 at 7:13 am
Whoop whoop!
Posted by: Emilee on 6/23/2021 at 8:55 pm
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at around 8am this morning. RMI Guide Avery Parrinello repoted a beautiful day of climb, and the route through the Kautz Ice Chute was in great shape. The Team has started their descent and will spend another day training and practicing alpine expedition skills to prepare for future climbs like Denali or Aconcagua.
Congratulations to today's team!
Woot!!! Amazing everyone!!! Just incredible! Good job Josh! And Sam, I’m proud of how far you got and your thoughtfulness on the decision to come back early. Well done too all!!!!
Posted by: Heather hobbs on 6/22/2021 at 5:39 pm
So happy and excited for you Josh & Sam!!!! Congratulations to you guys and your team!!
Posted by: Ana Zekants on 6/22/2021 at 3:06 pm
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Howdy all,
One of the most important traits to have in expedition style climbing is patience. Patience to wait for a window that will give you the best odds to reach your goal: to safely summit the mountain. We are currently testing our patience waiting for the best opportunity for the team to move to 17,000' Camp and go for the summit. Rest days or waiting days can get long and can be quite boring but they are necessary. The down time can be hard and your mind can drift to family and friends and your life back home, but its important to keep your head here and in the game. Lots of tent time, snacking, reading, and Netflix occupy our time. We did get to greet a RMI team who came down from 17,000' Camp after a successful summit. It was fun seeing friendly faces and hearing about the route. It makes us that more excited to get up there. In due time it will be our turn. Till then we wait.
Till tomorrow,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Wishing a great and fair weathered summit bid to the entire team! Happy birthday at my bad a$$ little sister who just turned 20 at 17k!!!
Posted by: Paulina Johansson on 6/22/2021 at 9:22 pm
BJ - thinking of you and continuing to wish you and your group the very best. You’re almost there! I am proud of you and I love you.
Posted by: Anna Geigle on 6/22/2021 at 5:36 pm
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Praying for safety and warm in the storm. One day at time. We all so proud of Daryl. You are outside living life! Love you
Posted by: Katie on 6/24/2021 at 8:49 pm
Praying for safety with the storm and that you are able to move up 14,000 safely and timely!
Posted by: Marg Millman on 6/24/2021 at 4:35 pm
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