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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Denali Expedition: King & Team Reach Summit with All Team Members

Update: Friday, June 11, 2021 - 9:47 pm PT

We woke to a clear and "warm" by 17K Camp standards morning and decided to get out in front of the inevitable hoard of climbers that would be attempting the summit today. With cold hands and toes warming up by the time we got to Denali Pass we kept breaking trail in spots and resting on what was the warmest and windless summit day I’ve been a part of. Some of the group had just a base layer and light weight gloves on at 19,500'. Everyone in the group, 9 climbers and 3 guides stood on top of the tallest peak in North America. We got some good views of the surrounding glacier and mountains. We even had 2 returning climbers who got turned around 2 years ago due to bad weather. Your loved ones will have all sorts of stories to share, know that they are safe in camp and taking care of themselves after an arduous 14-hour day. We will plan to descend to 14K Camp tomorrow and perhaps lower if the weather cooperates. While the objective we all set out 2 weeks ago has been accomplished, we still have a lot of terrain to navigate so we can get to the airstrip for flights on Sunday or Monday (weather permitting). Thanks for following along!

RMI Guide Mike King

Friday, June 11, 2021 - 4:00 pm PT

We received word this afternoon from RMI Guide Mike King that his team was on the summit of Denali with 100% of their team members.  We wish them a safe descent and a hearty congratulations for all their hardwork!

Way to go team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to all!  Way to go, Huw!

Posted by: Traci Gentry on 6/14/2021 at 11:05 am

Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Thanks for getting your team and our son safely back to sea level, we enjoyed the daily Blog and was excited to hear that all the team members reach the summit safely, Thanks again.
Mom and Dad Fortier

Posted by: Robert Fortier on 6/13/2021 at 6:22 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 12th Update

The Mt. Rainier Climb, led by RMI Guides JM Gorum and Dan Windham, had high winds and new snow at Camp Muir last night.  These conditions kept the team hunkered down at Camp Muir.  Both teams began their descent back to Paradise at 8:00 a.m.

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Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Travel to 7,800ft and Set up Camp

Friday, June 11, 2021 - 8:06 pm PT

Greetings from 7,800 Camp,

The early morning greeted us with views of all the surrounding peaks: Hunter, Foraker, and Francis. After filling our bellies with instant coffee and bacon bagel sandwiches we broke down camp, loaded the sleds, clipped into the ropes and hit the glacier. The day started with a gradual downhill to give us a nice warmup to the heavy sleds. Four miles later with achy hips, back and feet we arrived to our new home for the day. It was a hard, heavy day but the team handled it with flying colors. The rest of the day was filled with naps, munching on snacks, and a game of cards. Tomorrow's agenda is to move to 9,500 Camp. Ski hill will be our morning warmup, so an early night to rest up is a must.

Early to bed, early to rise,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climbs Unable to Climb due to High Winds

The Four Day Climb June 8 - 11 led by RMI Guides Walter Hailes and Dominic Cifelli were unable to make their summit attempt this morning.  Strong winds and blowing snow made for unsafe climbing conditions and kept the team hunkered down at Camp Muir over night.  The telemetry from Camp Muir shows wind averages ranging from mid 20 to mid 60 mph over night with gusts up to 79 mph.  When the group radioed the office this morning they were experiencing estimated 50 mph winds. The team will be descending from Camp Muir today and return to Rainier BaseCamp.  Unfortunately, today was not their day to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier.

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Next time boys!

Posted by: Brandon Sprout on 6/11/2021 at 9:54 pm


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Move Gear above Camp

Thursday, June 10, 2021 - 4:56 pm PT

Today was not a super nice day, but it was nice enough! We cached additional food and supplies at 13,500 and felt great. This puts us in position to move to 14,000' Camp when we are ready and weather allows. It looks like the weather should be decent tomorrow before the next round of storms come in. Stay tuned to follow our progress tomorrow!!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Nick, you’ve always been an inspiration and role model, which is why I want to tell you that I will be taking my talents to Alabama. Roll Tide.

Posted by: Kool-Aid Mckinstry on 6/12/2021 at 4:02 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Load Planes, Arrive at Kahiltna Base Camp

Thursday, June 10, 2021 - 6:09 pm PT

Good evening,

The sun made its way past the curtains flickering in the room. Knowing the sun was partly out was a good sign for flying today. As we made our way to the hangar, we got the call telling us to get our butts in gear. It was time to load the planes. Street shoes were traded in for boots, jeans traded for climbing pants. The air was filled with the roar of the planes and also nerves and excitment knowing that we were about to start our expeditions. Great views and a smooth ride brought us to the Kahiltna Base Camp. Just as we were so excited to fly onto the glacier, other teams stood ready and excited to fly off. We will be them in a few weeks. The rest of the day was spent setting up camp and refreshing skills. We will wake early tomorrow morning to make our way to the next camp.

Let the fun begin,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So glad to hear the sun made an appearance and you’re underway. Best wishes for the whole team. I’m thinking of you Byron!

Posted by: Heather Collins on 6/11/2021 at 5:40 pm

Get it, Dustin!! Make Kareem proud with those clear glasses!

Posted by: Drew Dykstra on 6/11/2021 at 1:06 pm


Denali Expedition: King & Team Take a Rest Day at 17,000ft Camp

Thursday, June 10, 2021 - 4:48 pm PT

We finally got turned in around 11 pm last night after building camp and getting some food and water in us. The night was calm and cold. The weather pattern is supposed to be breaking up through the day so if we get some visibility and lighter winds above we’ll try for the summit tomorrow. The Team is doing well and getting a little anxious about whether the conditions will cooperate. We built some wind walls out of snow as our activity today. Some light snow and solar on the tents allow us to focus on hydration, food and keeping our gear dry so that we are ready to launch in the morning....if the weather and mountain allows. That’s all from 17 Camp.

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Tom! I am with you every step of the way!!! Sending prayers for Strong Climbing!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/12/2021 at 2:41 am

So excited camp that y’all secured high camp! We cannot wait for updates over the next couple days. Thinking of you all, cheering you on, and crossing our fingers for clear weather for your summit bid. Keep on keeping on! Yeehaw! (Love you, Abbs!)

Posted by: Rae on 6/11/2021 at 9:45 am


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Kautz Team Summits

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team led by RMI Guide Andy Bond reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 10:45 am today via the classic and challenging Kautz Route. The team climbed above the clouds through knee and waste deep snow and navigated four ice pitches in the Kautz Ice Chute to reach the summit. They will spend the remainder of their time on the mountain honing their expedition skills, and plan to descend Friday.

Congratulations to Today's Team!

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Mt. Rainier: June 10th Team Reaches Summit

RMI Dave Hahn radioed from the Summit of Mt. Rainier at 9:45 am PT today! Recent storms have deposited about two feet of new snow on the mountian. The team climbed strong to break trail, and the view from the top was the big pay-off!

The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.

Congratulations to Today's Team! 

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Team, WAY TO GO! You all ROCK! I am utterly impressed and hope your climb down is as simple as you wish.

Posted by: Jenny Reynolds on 6/10/2021 at 11:58 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Wait Out the Weather at 11,000ft Camp

Wednesday, June 9, 2021 - 9:40 pm PT

We woke up hoping to cache below 14,000 Camp, the mountain had other plans so we spent the day eating, reading, relaxing, and building a snow fort. Hopefully tomorrow the weather complies and we can move supplies up the mountain.

RMI Guide Kiira Antenucci

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