Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Nick Sinapius, Ben Thorneycroft
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
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Friday May 16, 2025 11:10 pm PDT
We had the perfect rest day. It was in turns quite snowy, whiteout and incredibly hot, and blue and calm. We crushed a breakfast hash scramble, then some cinnamon buns, then lingered in the cook tent swapping stories and stretching. That gave way to midday siesta/saunas. Eventually Nick and Ben got motivated and dug a pit to hang skis over and make a passable pull-up bar (#lookatmenowpaul). Video evidence was collected of numbers 100 and 101 from both Ben and Nick. No wasting away and getting weak on Denali for those two. A good dinner, and we’re hoping to wake to weather that lets us make the next move.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer & Team
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Denali Expedition May 8, 2025
Posted by: Seth Burns, Jackson Breen, Raymond Holt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
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Friday, May 16, 2025 - 10:19 pm PDT
We started our day with breakfast at latitude 62 and ended our day with dinner at latitude 62. Can anyone guess where our day will start tomorrow?!
We spent the morning talking about the finer points of Denali climbing while learning and practicing some new skills. In the afternoon, our pilots at K2 along with the Denali base camp manager saw a break in the weather. Giddy with excitement, we loaded up the plane with all of our bags, put on our mountain clothes, and patiently waited for our chance for take off. Unfortunately, mountain weather can be a fickle beast and the mountain wasn't ready to let us in just yet. We became mesmerized by some classic Denali climbing films and fantasized about when we would soon be in those very spots.
Waiting is inevitable in the mountains, but always hard, especially at the beginning of a trip. I could not be more proud of our team's attitude. They are taking everything in stride and with a smile. We are enjoying constant laughs, telling stories, and building camaraderie that will enable us to run when our feet hit the ground. We will be ready to fly when our time comes. Hopefully that time is tomorrow morning!
RMI Guides Jackson, Ray, Seth and Team
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McKinley Expedition May 13, 2025
Posted by: Eric Frank, Mitch Valaitis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,500'
The team turned around just above the Cleaver yesterday due to difficult walking conditions and challenging weather, which proved too demanding for the group. Eric and his team departed Camp Muir this morning at 7:40 a.m. and are en route back to Paradise.
Everyone is safe, in good spirits, and coming away with valuable mountain experience.
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Nick Sinapius, Ben Thorneycroft
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Thursday, May 15, 2025 9:49 pm PDT
In the words of Thornjamin “when we awoke the weather was like nahhh, but then it was like jahhh”, and we carried to 13,500’.
It was windy when we woke but it quieted enough to convince us to go walking and turned out to be a quite smooth day. Tomorrow looks snowy and we intend to chill hard. These are times that lead us to say thanks to those in our life providing a multitude of remote weather advice, especially to Henry, whose whiteboard of weather models, maps, sharpies, and seemingly random red lines have yielded incredibly accurate results. Ask him how he does it?
But in all seriousness, we are psyched to have a cache up high and be looking at a rest day tomorrow. Things are going smoothly, the snow makes climbing quite forgiving for this time of year, and temps have been balmy (relatively) as well.
Best from 11,000’,
RMI Guides Thornjamin Bennycroft, Nick, Pete, and Team
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Denali Expedition May 8, 2025
Posted by: Seth Burns, Jackson Breen, Raymond Holt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Thursday, May 15, 2025 - 9:00 PM PDT
Well, we did not fly today. The clouds around Talkeetna and especially on the Kahiltna kept the planes on the ground. While this is not exactly what we wanted it is not unusual. Our friends at K2 aviation run a professional outfit and do everything they can to get us safely on and off the mountain. While they kept their eyes on the weather, we spent the day enjoying coffee, going over rope skills, eating plenty of food, and even going on a nice run.
If you're reading this, send us clear sky vibes.
RMI Guides Seth, Jackson, Ray, and Team
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McKinley Expedition May 13, 2025
Posted by: Seth Burns, Jackson Breen, Raymond Holt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 348'
Wednesday May 14, 2025 - 8:52 pm PT
Our first full day in Alaska greeted us with a beautiful and crisp morning. Today was a day of packing and repacking, prepping for the weeks ahead. While at time tiresome, we were laying the groundwork for a successful climb. By the end of the afternoon, bags were packed, food checked, and our team organized into our two flights. Excitement is high as we hope to fly to basecamp tomorrow.
All the best- RMI Guides Seth, Jackson, Ray, and team.
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition May 13, 2025
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Nick Sinapius, Ben Thorneycroft
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 11,200'
Wednesday, May 14, 2025 - 7:34 pm PT
It’s been a quiet, calm day here at 11,000 ft Camp. We slept in as sun doesn’t reach camp until 9:20 AM, though it never gets dark either, and then cooked up some blueberry pancakes. That started the conversation of Canadian or Vermont maple syrup of which there is only one correct answer. But all agreed New York maple syrup loses to both. We set out just after noon for a quick and light mission to retrieve our cache from below. The rest of the day has been spent relaxing and resting after a big couple of days on the lower Kahiltna. We are now done for the time being with sleds and snowshoes - and there was much rejoicing. It’s snowing lightly in camp and there are snow showers in the forecast for the next several days, so we’ll look for the right moment to get our cache put in at 13,500'.
RMI Guides Pete, Ben, Nick, and team.
New Post Alerts:
Denali Expedition May 8, 2025
More photos of your adventure please.
Posted by: Nancy on 5/15/2025 at 10:55 am
Posted by: Seth Burns, Jackson Breen, Raymond Holt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 348'
Tuesday, May 13, 2025 - 10:03 pm PT
Hello from Talkeetna! After a long day of travel we have arrived in this lovely little town, our launching off point. The excitement is tangible as we settle in, looking forward to a day of packing and prep tomorrow.
RMI Guide Seth Burns
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition May 13, 2025
Thank you so much for setting up this thoughtful webpage. We’ll be following along with the update! Wishing you all strength, endurance, good weather, and an amazing experience!
Love you Grace and Jason!
Posted by: Carol, Yong & Ruihua on 5/15/2025 at 8:14 am
Will, what an incredible adventure - soak in every moment!! We cannot wait to hear about it!! Xoxo
Posted by: Nicole and Drew on 5/15/2025 at 5:18 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Ben Thorneycroft, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Tuesday, May 13, 2025 - 10:27 pm PT
11,200’ is our new home! We weren’t entirely psyched when we woke this morning as there was a thick cloud bank and ripping winds where we needed to go. We did a partial pack and stalled and waited. As the sun climbed and warmed our camp, the clouds began to rise, and the wind began to die. That was enough for us - we pulled the rest of the camp down, loaded up sleds (all have names, goose and Tinkerbell are a few) and started uphill.
We had as smooth and steady of a climb as we could wish for and rolled into 11k this evening after a 7-hour walk. We are happily dug in and working towards dinner. Tomorrow we’ll go back to retrieve our cache which is a short day, and then be set to keep looking uphill.
RMI Guides Pete, Ben, Nick, and Team
New Post Alerts:
Denali Expedition May 8, 2025
Monday, May 12, 2025 - 9:58 pm PT
We ended the trip exactly like we wanted. Bathed in sunshine. Even though the trip started with some stormy weather and wet days it ended with perfect blue skies. Our final two days were spent exploring crevasses, ice climbing and continuing into the various corners of the Ruth Gorge. Our last day was spent packing up camp in the brisk early morning cold and beginning the trek back to the Ruth Gorge Ampitheater where the Sheldon Chalet oversees the landscape. With the warming of the day and the buzzing of airplanes overhead it wasn't long until we were back to our plane slightly sweaty and sunburnt. The ride that ensued after was probably the most beautiful flight I've seen flying out of the Alaska range. We punctuated the trip with food and drinks in sunny Talkeetna!
Until next time,
RMI Guides Dan May, Joey Manship and the Ruth Glacier Seminar team
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Everyday is a grind, but the ending will be amazing, keep pushing! Remember each moment!
Posted by: Josh Durkiewicz on 5/15/2025 at 9:12 am
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