McKinley Expedition: Breen & Team Carry Gear towards 14,000ft Camp
Posted by: Jackson Breen, Lacie Smith, Raymond Holt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 11,000'
Wednesday, June 3, 2026 - 7:57 pm PT
UGH, IT’S SO DAMN HOT
MILK WAS A BAD CHOICE THIS MORNING
I believe this variation of an Anchorman quote captures our cache carry to 14k Camp today perfectly after our granola breakfast with condensed milk before we started our day in the Denali heat. The morning started off cold as we ditched our snowshoes and toboggans and donned crampons as we marched onward and upward, inching closer to our ultimate objective of the summit. The snow and ice creaked and groaned under the stabs of our technical gear, and the ice glistened with a beautiful blue hue as colorful as the sky above us.
Little by little, we attacked this section meticulously making it up Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, across the Polo Fields, and finally around the bend at Windy Corner. The views were spectacular, breathtaking, with a horizon that stretched for hundreds of miles. The team still had some fuel in the tank and we pushed upward towards 14k Camp electing to cache higher vs lower. This stretch proved the most challenging for many as the midday heat baked and redlined our bodies. Arriving at camp was a godsend for many as we cached our gear and returned back down to 11k camp.
I’m so damn proud and happy to be part of a cohesive and high performing team with knowledgeable, expert guides. As the demands on the mountain continue to increase, the team and guides increasingly continue to gel together- teammates lending a helping hand to one another with self care provisions, dinner banter continuing well past the meal is finished, and collective respect being earned as we witness each other’s grit and determination on the mountain to achieve our ultimate goal. We have Ricky- the ultra athlete who continues to impress me with his cool as a cucumber attitude, Matt- the gruff Utah SAR mountain man, Dave and Peter- the team’s muscle men Mr Universe personas (Schwarzenegger would be proud), Pattie- the IronWoman athlete, and Lizzie- the award winning author and qualified wilderness fire fighter. Our guides- Jackson, Lacie, and Ray who are consummate professionals, funny and lighthearted- push the team in all the right ways to make us better climbers and help us achieve our prized goal of a successful, safe summit of Denali.
To our 12 readers of the RMI blog post, we’re safe and sound back at 11k camp, ready to treat ourselves to clean base layers as we transition phases on the mountain. Hormel meat snack marketing- if you’re reading this, Ray says to call him. A wet wipe bath beckons my name now and the Brolonso hair flow is in full effect after a day of wetting my hair with wet snow to cool my head.
HEY, EVERYONE, COME SEE HOW GOOD I LOOK.
RMI Climber / Aviator Alonso
Comments (5)
As someone who climbed Denali with Jackson on his first trip as a guide up the mountain, in May 2022, I’ve been following along, so excited to see Jackson in the well-deserved and well-earned role of leader. The team couldn’t be in better hands. Good luck to all of you! — Clare (Jackson may remember me as half of the mother-son duo, and not to make him feel old, but Sam just graduated from college last week!)
Posted by: Clare on
Go team, go, and what a spectacular team you all make! So proud of you and all the progress you’ve made. Keep eating cucumbers, Ricky!
Posted by: Susan Reusser on
In recent days, the first thing I do every morning is to read this wonderful blog. They’ve been so vivid and from the heart that I can’t help but feel like I’m included in a way (granted without the tremendous physical and mental work required).
All of you are amazing for being on this journey and I thank you for sharing it with me. I’m cheering all of you on with great enthusiasm and support.
Posted by: Lily on
So immensely inspired by all of you folks’ discipline and dedication! The daily blogs have been a welcome glimpse into your experience and I can’t wait to read the next one!
To the guides, thank you for keeping all of the climbers safe and on track to meet the collective goal.
I’m sending lots of love and PMA(positive mental attitude) from Philly! Y’all got this!!
Posted by: Nneka on
Keep it up everyone! Looks like you’re on a roll!
Posted by: Kat on