Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Jones and Team Wait Out Weather

June 9, 2012

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,100'

Howdy from 14k. Today we got up and planned to carry food and equipment up toward high camp at 17k. We woke up early and the air was warm with patches of blue sky showing through. While we got our morning chow the snow and wind started slowly picking up. As we walked the first hour to 15k and the base of the classic headwall of the West Buttress, the wind and snow intensity increased and visibility dropped to just a few feet. With these conditions and the risk of avalanches increasing, we opted to descend in hopes of better weather in the next days. The team spent the majority of the day lounging in tents. Our decision to turn around was verified as we heard the constant roar of avalanches in the distance and saw 8 new inches of snow accumulate throughout the day. Dinner tonight will bring a nice meal and psych to the team. In the mountains we must have patience and wait until we have an opportunity for safe passage. For now we gain strength and acclimatization through rest and light exercise. When Denali allows us an opportunity to go higher, we will be ready. - RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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So good to hear you are all safe and living your dream. Thinking of you Nicolas and may you and the Team reach the summit in good time. Stay safe.

Posted by: Claudette (Louise's sister) on 6/10/2012 at 3:42 pm

It is reassuring to hear of your decision to wait out for better weather.
Thinking of you Nicolas!
Good luck to all of you.

Posted by: louise on 6/10/2012 at 8:09 am

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Okita and Team at 17k’

June 9, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leon Davis, Lindsay Mann

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Day 6 at camp 17! Woke up to a foot of fresh powder around noon. Had a late brunch of leftover cereal, oatmeal, and soup. After some posh time we hit the shovels and dug out our tents. The rest of the afternoon we'll be reading and eating, two of our favorite pastimes in the comfort of our tents. We're cautiously optimistic that tomorrow will bring a summit bid! We're in good spirits and have plenty of resources to stick it out for another couple days! -Kristen and Gary

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Any day in the mountains builds wisdom and respect for the mountaineering experience. You guys are sure getting your share! Everything is crossed: fingers, toes, skis, ice axes, crampons,... Safe travels.

Posted by: Nate Ayer and family on 6/9/2012 at 5:35 pm

277 highpointers here at Timberline Lodge are sending you the patience and will power to hang tough.

Posted by: John Mitchler on 6/9/2012 at 1:43 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren and Team Move to 7,800’

June 8, 2012

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

When we woke early this morning we weren't sure what the day had in store for us. The cloud deck dropped during breakfast and no one could really tell if it was raining or snowing. We returned to the tents to wait for a trend to emerge and in about an hour made the call to try to leave basecamp for higher pastures. We had perfect conditions to make our way to the base of Ski Hill and set up camp at the confluence of the Main and Northeast Forks of the Kahiltna Glaciers. As soon as camp was buffed out, it started to snow and we are enjoying a little siesta before dinner. If the weather is cooperative we will move higher tomorrow to get within striking distance of 11 Camp and the upper mountain. Hope all is well down South! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Great to have the opportunity to virtually follow your tour. To Christel: Aunt ever I am so proud you are doing this, one day we might tackle the Matterhorn together ;)

Posted by: Wenke Stalling on 6/10/2012 at 2:07 am

Bob~Kristi made it to Rwanda, after 27 hours!! Now you have to make it to the top!
Kathy

Posted by: Kathy Spinks on 6/9/2012 at 1:37 pm

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Mt.McKinley: Beren and team fly onto Kahiltna Glacier

June 7, 2012

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

It doesn't always happen like this up here, but when you can fly out of Talkeetna at 9 am, just like you planned, it is a real sweet start to a trip. We landed on a warm glacier and spent the day settling into our new pace on the mountain. Building camp, rigging sleds, reviewing some techniques and most importantly checking out the views. It is stunning here and perfect weather for starting this adventure. If it holds we will wake up and head towards 7,800' camp at the base of Ski Hill tomorrow, testing our new knowledge and taking our first literal steps. Til then, RMI Guides Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Thomas Greene and the gang.

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Okita & Team Waiting Patiently

June 7, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leon Davis, Lindsay Mann

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Good things come to those who wait... At least that is what we must remind ourselves of. Another day of marginal weather had us scratching our heads about the possibility of a summit bid while other teams have had enough and are headed down. But with a fortified camp and a weeks worth of food and fuel, we plan to exercise patience and optimism. As storm days stack up, it is all too easy to let altitude and lethargy tear a person down. Exercise is the best remedy, and so this afternoon we climbed the first hour of the autobahn to stretch the legs and open the lungs. With new snow covering the route, we worked hard breaking new trail up to 17,700 feet, and the pickets that protect the steep slopes had to be dug out. To be sure when our time comes to go for the top, our team will be the most acclimated and best conditioned team at high camp. High and Mighty at 17K RMI Guides Okita, Davis & Mann

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Hey Double A hope ypur not freezing your #$## off that would suck… Can’t believe you guys are hanging in there at 17k. Life at sea level is nice and warm but I’m sure the views and experience y’all are having is really special. Stay safe… Looking forward to good weather for you so you can achieve the summit, good luck too you and all your partners up there.

Posted by: mark on 6/8/2012 at 11:59 pm

“High and Mighty at 17K” is beautiful also in your realization of humility to circumstance—to your group, and specifically to Kristen who is the daughter of deepest friends and a young woman of deepest conviction, Godbless.

Posted by: Michael Rosen on 6/8/2012 at 5:10 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Enjoy Rest at 14,000’

June 7, 2012

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Today was our second day of sleeping in on the trip; it proved to be just as enjoyable as the first. Here in Ganet Basin at 14k, the looming upper mountain of Denali blocks the sun from hitting camp until mid morning. Our group stayed in sleeping bags until the sun's first rays hit our tents. This place is like a desert, when the sun is behind the mountain it's freezing and when the sun is out, it's miserably hot. Once we were up, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast that lasted nearly until lunch. Here at 14 camp, we are situated in the outskirts of a village of tents. While we are content resting in the shade, others are not. People can be seen and heard at nearly all hours of the day. We see snowball fights as well as people playing hacky-sack and making elaborate castles of snow blocks. High winds and low visibility have plagued the upper mountain for the last few days, keeping many teams from moving uphill. The result is a large group of restless people around camp. While others sit crossing their fingers and rationing food, we are sitting pretty. Because our team has moved efficiently thus far, we are simply enjoying the rest, acclimatizing and getting stronger every day. We are in a great position and look forward to carrying to 17k when we get a chance. We remain optimistic that the weather and wind on the upper mountain will subside. The team says hello to all our friends and family following along on the blog. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Chris and friends I am sure you are enjoying the expiriance up there as always. Best wishes for good weather ahead and safe climbing, mean while enjoy the
rest. Good job with the updates Tyler.
Thank you

Posted by: voula likourgiotis on 6/8/2012 at 6:42 pm

Thank you so much for the updates Tyler!
Go Nicolas Go!
Hope you are all having a wonderful time.
Keep safe.

Posted by: Louise on 6/8/2012 at 11:57 am

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz

June 7, 2012

Posted by: Solveig Waterfall, Seth Waterfall, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 9,200'

Seth here, checking in from inside my tent. We're currently dug in at 9,200 feet at a spot we call "The Castle." We've had a rough spell of weather on this trip with mostly white out conditions but the group is still having a good time. Yesterday we had good weather for a bit while we climbed up to our camp but over night a big storm came in and now we are just waiting it out in the safety of camp. Tomorrow we will make our way back to civilization.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to Go John, We are sooo proud…hope you didn’t loose your hat in those white outs! It’s 84 and sunny here in MB..you’re next stomping ground..can’t wait to see you and hear all about it. Love you partner. Dr. Missy

Posted by: Melissa Patton on 6/9/2012 at 5:14 am

Hey Mr. Boicourt get tot he top already Rif meeting starts in an hour, plus George misses you!

By the looks of that weather you should have listened to me and done the Robert Trent Jone golf trail. we would be on about Bottle 10 of Goose and Juice…

great job and see ya soon…

Posted by: Chris Colangelo on 6/8/2012 at 6:13 am

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Mt Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Technical Training at Muir

June 7, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,080'

Today we are training at Camp Muir. The weather is not cooperating with our training, but we are having fun teaching and using advanced techniques for our very advanced clientele. It is very winter like here at Camp Muir a lot of snow and a lot of wind. Our last session will be navigation, and that will come in handy tomorrow getting down the Muir Snowfield. JJ, Dan & the Expedition Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Guys had a great time, so much so I’m booking for Mexico. I want to make sure JJ brings the fat finger ascender just for me…

Posted by: Louis on 6/11/2012 at 2:31 pm

We had a fantastic time learning mountaineering skills and hanging out in the hut at Camp Muir. What a great group of clients and guides! Thanks to JJ, Dan, Tim, Katey, and Alex for teaching us so much. You took a newbie and got me well started on a great obsess,er,uh, hobby! Thanks to Nick for suggesting the trip, and every body for keeping it fun. I hope Zeek’s goose grows her feathers back in time for the next trip!

Posted by: Jim on 6/10/2012 at 3:18 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Make Home Improvements

June 7, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita, Lindsay Mann, Leon Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

This morning we woke up to clear skies and beautiful views. Unfortunately, as we sipped on our morning coffee the clouds began to grow and the wind picked up. Today was not our summit day, instead we got the team moving around and doing more home improvements. I can positively say that RMI Okita has the best looking camp at 17. Today's renovations included lowering the floor of the posh ( or cook tent) and revamping the kitchen scene. After these improvements were made everyone enjoyed some reading and napping before a delicious dinner of tortellini served with a cream garlic sauce and sun dried tomatoes. The conversation was flowing over dinner, with stories of bike racing, pets, hunting and books. Again we are optimistic about tomorrow's weather, which is calling for a high pressure system to move in. Wishing the wind away, RMI Guides Lindsay, Leon, Brent and team

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Tomorrow will be day! Power to the TEAM!

Posted by: phil usher on 6/7/2012 at 3:13 pm

Kristen & team - 265 Highpointers at the convention in Mt Hood this weekend are watching your progress.

Posted by: john mitchler on 6/7/2012 at 9:39 am

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Mt. Rainier - Expedition Skills Seminar Works on Crevasse Rescue

June 6, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides J.J. Justman and Dan Windham climbed to 11,500' feet this morning and spent several hours working on their crevasse rescue techniques. They will continue their training tomorrow and hope to make a summit attempt if conditions allow.

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Jones and Team Wait Out Weather

On The Map

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Okita and Team at 17k’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren and Team Move to 7,800’

On The Map

Mt.McKinley: Beren and team fly onto Kahiltna Glacier

On The Map

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Okita & Team Waiting Patiently

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Enjoy Rest at 14,000’

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz

Mt Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Technical Training at Muir

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Make Home Improvements

On The Map

Mt. Rainier - Expedition Skills Seminar Works on Crevasse Rescue

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