Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Ahhh...rest day. We didn't even begin to move in our tents until the sun moved from behind the mountain and shined directly upon us. We weren't completely worthless since we took a hike over to an area called The Edge of the World where you can look over 6,000' down to the Kahiltna Glacier. We also got some fixed rope practice in as we made the team work their way through a course with ascenders. We finished the gauntlet with a rappel into the posh house for dinner. We hope to carry a load up to 17,000' Camp tomorrow if the weather plays nice.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
This morning we packed up our bags, checked out of our hotel, and headed north. The first stop was at La Laguna Mojanda, a high alpine where the trailhead for our second acclimatization hike is located. We drove through clouds and rain to get there, but when we arrived we where above the clouds and could see the day's hiking objective, Fuya Fuya. Fuya Fuya is a peak that is situated on an ecological reserve, north of the town of Otovalo. The clouds moved in and out throughout the day, and we climbed up through the high-altitude grassland with periods of rain, hail, and wind. The most challenging part of the climb was staying on your feet, as the volcanic soil became quite slippery in the rain. The final 200' of the climb included a fun rock scramble to the summit. Everyone did great, and rose to the challenges that the weather presented.
Now we're warm, dry, and comfortable at the beautiful hacienda San Luis. A big dinner and a good night's rest is on tap for tonight. Tomorrow morning, we'll head to the Indigenous town of Otovalo, and spend a large part of the day enjoying the world famous Otovalo Market. After a leisurely day at the market, we'll head to the climbers' hut on Cayambe for the night. We'll spend two nights there during our summit attempt.
Ciao for now,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
The skies above Talkeetna were broken this morning with a light gray patchwork of clouds hanging low in the sky. We packed up our bags from the hotel and walked over to the Roadhouse Café for another hearty breakfast, keeping an eye on the skies through the window. By the time we finished the clouds were breaking apart so we hurried over to the airstrip to see what the pilots thought of the flying weather. Sure enough they gave us the thumbs up and we went into hyperdrive, packing the last few items and loading our bags into the planes.
By 10:30am we were airborne, the team split between two turbo prop planes outfitted with skis. As soon as we climbed above the last remanants of that low hanging cloud layer the Alaska Range reared into view, gradually filling the windshield of the plane with a white mass as we approached. Before long we left the green forest below and crossed above the moraines and glaciers of the Southern Alaska Range. Making a big turn around the southwest side of Mt. Hunter - the third highest peak in the Alaska Range - and entered above the Kahiltna Glacier. Another giant sweeping turn brought us into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna and Chris, our pilot, gently touched the plane down onto the glacier.
Stepping out of the plane is always an overwhelming experience as the sheer scale of the surrounding landscape is brought into perspective. Soon the planes took off again, leaving us standing at Base Camp with a massive pile of gear and food sitting beside us. We quickly set to work, establishing camp and unpacking and resorting our gear from the flights. The rest of the afternoon slipped by as we reviewed our glacial travel skills, set up crevasse rescue systems, and played with various snow anchors.
In the evening Kel pulled together some phenomenal burritos and then we settled in for some rest. We are waking up again in a few hours to move to Camp 1, taking advantage of the coldest part of the night when the snow is frozen and supportive to walk across the lower stretches of the Kahiltna Glacier which is riddled with crevasses this time of year. We should arrive in Camp by mid morning tomorrow.
The team is doing well, excited to be here, and eager to begin the climb. We will check in tomorrow from Camp 1.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Capitalizing on a break in the weather the high winds subsided just long enough to allow us to move up to 17,000 feet for our high camp on Denali. After moving in last night we hunkered down with some full bellies and awoke to a little bit higher winds than we were hoping for, but we're in good shape sitting tight up here at 17 just sort of waiting and watching the weather, so that's all from 17K camp. And I will be checking in soon. Alright. Bye.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Jake Beren checks in after the team's move to 17,000' Camp
On The Map
Jake, I was just thinking about your BIG day tomorrow and checked in to see if you were still up on the mountain… looks like you are holding strong up there. Sending you some sunshine and awesome weather tomorrow. Hopefully a summit and down for steak and cake soon :) Happy Birthday! hugs, C
Posted by: KC on 6/25/2011 at 9:10 pm
Jake! Happy Birthday!! Once again you’re on a mountain top at the time of your birthday—so no presents for you, my Beemish Boy. I hope your clients are aware that they lucked out, when they drew you as a guide. How does the the iPad respond to the cold? Stay warm!
Love,aged P’s
Posted by: Richard Beren on 6/25/2011 at 6:41 pm
On a cold and windy morning, the climbing teams persevered and made it to the summit of Mt. Rainier. The teams started their descent back to Camp Muir at 8:00 a.m. PST.
Congratulations!
Another successful push up the hill brought us to our 14,000' Camp. The team performed wonderfully even with the big loads we were carrying. 14,000' Camp is a huge flat area that has a view up towards the summit looking one way and a view out towards Mt. Foraker and Mt. Hunter the other way. What an incredible place! The sun reflecting off of the snow that surrounds us causes it to be quite hot during the day. When the sun tucks behind the mountain around 9:00 PM, it gets COLD. Like Alaska cold! Go figure. Although our team is a bunch of animals, we are taking a rest day tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
Papa and Shreekanth uncle- hope you guys are entertaining eachother on your day off. Can’t wait to hear all the stories about your adventures!
love you, love yashu
Posted by: Yashu on 6/24/2011 at 8:57 am
Hi Dad! Take it easy tomorrow and keep warm at night! Can’t wait to see pictures, the view from 14,000 sounds pretty nice.
Luv,
Maya and Sarina
Posted by: Maya and Sarina on 6/24/2011 at 2:12 am
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Today we enjoyed our first acclimatization hike, climbing the ~15,500’ Rucu Pichincha, a volcano whose flanks form part of the western perimeter of Quito. In order to access the hike, we rode a gondola from Quito to ~13,500’. The hike begins at the top of the gondola and heads west, gradually climbing up a broad ridge. Dramatic views of Quito were afforded, a few thousand feet below us. The weather was great for hiking, with only a light breeze and comfortable temperatures. As we neared the top of Rucu, the trail steepened, climbing up to a col; from here a quick rock scramble led to the top. Views from the top were limited, as we were in the clouds at this point. But as we descended, the clouds dissipated a bit. Everyone did great on this high-altitude climb, especially considering that most of us were at sea-level a day or two before this!
Once we got back to Quito, we had a couple of hours of free time to rest before we headed out for a well-deserved meal where we sampled typical Ecuadorian cuisine, including shrimp ceviche, chicken, pork, and even baked cuy, or guinea pig—a classic dish from the Andes.
Tomorrow we’re headed north for our second acclimatization hike to Fuya Fuya, a small mountain near the town of Otovalo. We’ll touch base again tomorrow.
Hasta luego!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
RMI's Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Seth Waterfall and Jason Thompson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today at 7:20 a.m. PT. It was a cold and clear day on the mountain with very high winds. The team took photos and a quick break on top before starting their descent.
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by Nate Disser also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning via the Kautz Glacier. The team will return to high camp for their final night on the mountain.
Congratulations to today's team on their successful ascent of Mt. Rainier!
The sky never quite darkened outside the drawn shades of the hotel rooms up here in Talkeetna last night and before long the sun was rising in the sky again. We met up at the Roadhouse Cafe this morning where Matt, the final member of our team and a local Alaskan resident, joined us. Over heaping portions of scrambled eggs, bacon, thick slices of toast, and steaming cups of coffee, we toasted the merging of the team and the beginning of the adventures. After spending some time talking through the details of the climb ahead we went over to the National Park Service offices here and checked in with the climbing rangers, collecting our climbing permits and discussing the most recent route conditions with the climbing rangers.
With permits in hand we walked back through the streets of Talkeetna, just starting to bustle with the midday influx of tourist arriving from the Anchorage area, and across the railroad tracks to the air strip where we spent the rest of the day organizing our gear for the climb. We unpacked, sorted, checked, rechecked, and repacked our personal clothing and climbing equipment, inspected our climbing ropes, fired up and tested our stoves, counted our 22 days worth of food, set up and examined our 4 tents, separated the shovels, wands, climbing pickets, and snow saws we will need, and then rechecked everything again - making doubly sure that we are feeling prepared with our equipment. Finally, by later afternoon, a pile of duffels, backpacks, snowshoes, tents, poles, and climbing equipment began to accumulate in the open entrance of the hangar of K2 Aviation. At long last the pile stopped growing and the final last minute items were added. Just before dinner we weighed out all of the bags, carefully checking the weights of each item in order to allow the pilots of the small prop planes we fly in tomorrow so that they can adequately distribute the weight of our loads.
With a full day of packing and preparing for the climb, we retired to the local and legendary eatery and watering hole of the West Rib, indulging in Caribou burgers and Halibut tacos before calling it a day. We are hoping that the clearing skies we see in the afternoon persist into tomorrow allowing us to make the 30 minute flight from Talkeetna into the Alaska Range to Denali Base Camp. There is always the chance that weather either here in Talkeetna or up on the mountain will not cooperate and not allow us to make the flight but spirits are optimistic and we are keeping our fingers crossed the weather shakes out in our favor.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Wonderful to read your blog Linden. Wishing you, Frank and the whole team a safe climb and an experience beyond all your expectations!
Posted by: Connie S. on 6/24/2011 at 12:12 pm
Happy Birthday…you know who you are…. :-)
Posted by: Laurie C. on 6/24/2011 at 6:45 am
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Greetings from Ecuador!
Today was the first official day of our Ecuador Volcanoes trip. After an excellent breakfast at our hotel (which included fresh fruit and juices from the region, like papaya, pineapple, watermelon, and guanabana), we set off on a tour of Quito. Led by our local city guide and expert historian, Jorge, we traveled to the historic Old Town Quito. We toured the Basilica and other historic churches in the district, learning the history of their creation and their unique architectural styles. We also visited the Presidential Palace, Ecuador’s House of Congress, and Independence Square. Then the team headed up to the hill on the outskirts of Quito known as El Panecillo. Here, in addition to seeing the large statue of the Virgin of Quito, we were afforded a panoramic view of Quito.
The next stop on the trip was at a beautiful restaurant/hotel for lunch, where we all sampled classic Ecuadorian cuisine; the meal started with an empanada, then a potato/cheese/avocado soup known as locro de queso. The main course was Fritada, or fried pork, accompanied by corn, plantain, and potatoes. The meal finished off with a delicious homemade ice cream with a fruit sauce made of babaco and guanabana.
With full bellies, we headed north to visit an ethnographic museum located exactly on the equator, where we were able to stand with one foot in the northern hemisphere and one in the southern hemisphere!
The day concluded with a great dinner, lots of joking around, and laughter at the well-known Magic Bean restaurant. Tomorrow we will go on our first acclimatization hike to the volcano Rucu Pichincha.
Everyone is doing great and we all send a big “Hola” to everyone back home. I will be in touch tomorrow with pictures and an update of our hike.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Thanks for the updates! Have a great and safe climb.
I’m looking forward to lots of pictures
Posted by: Mike Erstad on 6/23/2011 at 9:56 am
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Glad to see that the team is doing well. Patrick I miss you so much and I can not wait to hear about the adventures the mountain brings your way. Stay safe team!
Posted by: Rachel M on 6/25/2011 at 12:15 pm
What a beautiful view. Hoping for good weather. Take care!
Posted by: Brigitte on 6/25/2011 at 7:18 am
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