Hello to everybody following along!
It's been a couple of days or so since we last checked in but we've been very busy. Yesterday we picked up camp at 11,200' and moved up to 14,200'. The weather was decent for our move but turned south as the evening progressed. We were very glad that we spent the time building walls to protect our tents because the National Park Service weather station recorded gusts to 55 mph last night! Today we back-carried the rest of our supplies from our cache at Windy Corner and spent the rest of the afternoon digging out an elaborate posh (cook tent) despite pretty bad weather (snow & wind).
That's about it for now! Rest day tomorrow...
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Solveig Garhart and the crew
Also: Drew would like to wish his brother a happy birthday!
Just wanted to say hello and we are thinking of you!! Hope the weather gets better and everything goes smoothly.. Dylan wanted me to tell you he says hello and give you kisses!! :) He is getting so big, can’t wait to skype next!!
wishing you and the team good luck and good weather!!!
LOVE YOU!!!!!
Posted by: Tove on 5/20/2011 at 3:21 pm
I look forward to reading your blog. Stay strong and enjoy!
Drew, I love you and was thinking of you a lot yesterday. Mom
Well, I think we can say the 2011 RMI Everest Summit push has begun.
Dave, Linden, Kaji, Dawa, and Tshering left Camp 2 early this morning under great climbing conditions. They have all passed through Camp 3 and are
making good time toward the South Col. Dave and Linden stopped at Camp 3 and strapped on bottles of oxygen while the Sherpa opt not to use O2 at this point. They sure are amazing climbers.
All is good up here. We will keep you posted.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Thnx for the update Tuck. I didn’t get to meet you this season—was on the Island Peak leg with Linden & crew when you rolled into base camp.
Got caught up tonite on all the blog entries. Its 11:45pm PST, Thurs 5/19 my time. I won’t be able to get to sleep now…will be thinking of the boys up high & sending good karma their way.
Namaste & Dzum Dzum!
Posted by: Tim McLaughlin on 5/19/2011 at 11:46 pm
Update: 5:00 pm PST -
Brent and his team got to within 5 minutes of Basecamp on the second flight before having to turn around and fly back to Talkeetna. The weather was just not cooperating.
As of 5:00 pm, the weather is improving and they are going to try it for the third time. Hopefully they will be in Basecamp in a few hours. We’ll keep you posted.
Update: 1 pm PST
Brent called, the team got about 20 minutes from the airstrip when a ground fog rolled in that prevented their landing at Basecamp. The plane is all packed with their gear ready to go, so right now they are back at the K2 Aviation Hanger having a great time celebrating Maile Wade’s birthday…Happy Birthday Maile!
Well, it's day 15 of our trip and our first real storm day. Winds gusted to 55mph last night in camp, are gusty today and it's snowing lightly. We're in good spirits and have a good camp established here at 14k. And we're all optimistic that the weather will improve and give us a chance to move to high camp and go for the summit.
The RMI Team led by Billy Nugent, arrived in Camp 4 last night. It's good to see them; they are doing well. We shared our kitchen with them last night and today, so they have a sheltered spot to cook and eat while they work on excavating theirs today.
Keep your fingers crossed that the weather improves over the next few days. We're hanging tough and doing well...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Hi Jeff! Missing and thinking of you - hoping for good weather to come your way! I can’t believe it’s day 16 already - everyone from home says hi and is rooting for you. I am so proud of you, stay focused. Miss and love you lots!
Erica
Posted by: Erica on 5/20/2011 at 7:18 am
Hey Ken, Windy there, rainy here! We have had almost a week of overcast rainy weather. Ally and I are hoping the weather changes for the climb soon. The sun is suppose shine here tomorrow. All is well at the restaurant. Graduation is tomorrow. Pizza place still not open. We miss but are keeping busy. Love you Cathy & Ally!!
Tomorrow begins the 21st chapter of my personal McKinley saga. It’s late and I’m kind of all packed up. Funny how after all these years of leading these expeditions the excitement just builds as I approach the date when we begin the trip. That day is tomorrow, when the other guides, Leon and Maile, and I fly up to Anchorage to meet the group and begin the expedition.
Both Leon and Maile are veteran McKinley guides. Leon guided with me two years ago, and Maile cut her teeth last year on her first trip. I’m pretty lucky to have these two guides working with me. Not only do they both have prior Denali experience, but they are great to work with. And it goes without saying, one of the key things to a successful, fun expedition is how folks get along on a trip. For three weeks we will be working hard, struggling at times, dealing with a sometimes uncomfortable and unforgiving environment. So the people we are literally tied to, day in and day out, really make or break a trip.
I know a fair number of the climbers on our trip, though not everyone. But that is also part of the fun of these expeditions: getting to know a group of people on a pretty intense level. I’m looking forward to it!
Reflecting on the relationships forged on these climbing adventures I just need to look back a few hours ago when I received an email from a team mate from my 1991 Everest trip. We noted that it was our 20th anniversary this week of our summit of that mountain. A different time in mountaineering history, to be sure, but what’s certainly not lost is that sense of companionship, team work and whatever else happens within a group of climbers when they set off to climb a big mountain like Everest… or Denali.
Perhaps even more meaningful was another email I got today from a climber with me last year who just ‘called out’ to wish me all the best for my upcoming climb. His outreach reminded me again of just how special these trips are. I guess I’m feeling pretty darned fortunate to be doing what I’m doing.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Dave and Linden are resting at Camp 2. Kaji and Dawa up to Camp 2 with last loads of equipment to help support the summit push. Dave, Linden, Kaji, Dawa, and Tsering up early tomorrow for the climb from Camp 2 to the South Col. Yubarj will support the effort from Camp 2 and one of the three climbing sherpa are slated to stay at the South Col in support of the Summit team.
Bill, Sara and myself made the early morning trek to the Heli pad with a ship headed our way till it ran into clouds. It started in Lukla, then returned to Lukla without Sara and Bill, but still on standby. At these altitudes, and good sized mountains near by, best to fly a bit conservative, you know what I mean. So Bill and Sara along with Lam Babu started hiking to Pheriche after lunch. They kept an eye on the weather and a hand on the phone in case they could fly from either Gorak Shep or Lobuche. Neither option happened and last I heard they were getting near Pheriche. They were enjoying the hike today and have no problem trekking all the way to Lukla in three days. Maybe tomorrow, weather permitting they will fly out of Pheriche enjoying one of the most spectacular flights you can imagine. Base Camp keeps getting less and less tents around but that's what happens around this time of the season.
We are all getting very excited about the next couple of days. Forecast is good. Team healthy and strong. Camps in place. A bit of luck, will make good
chance at the summit.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Hello. This is the RMI Alaska Mountaineering Seminar checking in from our camp at 7,300 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. It's 11 PM here in Alaska and the team is in bed for the night. Just came back from a successful summit day on Mt. Francis. The team was 100% successful and cruised the route in just under 11 hours. We had beautiful weather, clear skies, and just a little bit of wind. Everyone climbed strong and we're looking forward to getting back to training tomorrow. Take care.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
RMI Guide Eric Frank checks in after Mt. Francis summit
Congratulations all. Where are the pictures? Have fun training tomorrow - hopefully weather will hold well.
Tell Jitendar we cant wait for him to get back home. Kids miss Dad!! Love,Mamta
Posted by: Rao Family on 5/19/2011 at 7:33 pm
Congratulations on the summit of Mt. Francis. I saw the 360 panorama on you tube, very cool!, Tell McKinley to enjoy her leisure time as I am putting her to work sailing as crew with Captain Bligh Max Lenker on a 44 ft. Island Packet sail boat on an exploratory trip to Culebra and Vieques in the Spanish Virgin Islands. I have another crew hired named Michael McDaniel. Sailing Virgin Islands 2 - 12 June. Good luck tomorrow. Post some pictures. Max
The weather is very comfortable here at 14k- lots of sun, light winds, and reasonable temps; but the winds persist up high. Wind speeds are around 40 mph at high camp, and probably 50-60 mph at Denali Pass and the summit.
We climbed to the base of the fixed lines today (a little over 1000' above camp), just to stretch the legs and get some exercise. It felt good to climb for a couple of hours.
Now we're back at camp, lounging around and waiting for the winds to ease so we can move to high camp and get a crack at the summit.
The team appreciates everyone's comments on the blog...keep them coming!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
I am back in Denver. I guess Ed, Seth, Mark and I would still be sitting there with you guys. Hang in there and be safe!
Posted by: Kevin Duncan on 5/19/2011 at 12:48 pm
Hi David,
Hope you are enjoying your climbing adventure and that your team stays safe. Liam still talks about your Mt. Hood climb. Wishing you the best from a very flat Chicago suburb. Susan, Dave and Liam.
Our Five Day Summit Climb May 14 - 18, 2011 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today under beautiful blue skies. This is our first program of the 2011 Summer Season and we are pumped that the team was able to make the top. According to RMI Guide Casey Grom "This is as good as it gets!"
The team was beginning their descent from the summit ridge shortly after 10 am Pacific time. The group will return to Camp Muir, rest and repack before making the final descent to Paradise.
Congratulations to RMI Guides Casey Grom and Adam Knoff and their teams!
Yesterday I decided to end my quest to summit Mt Everest, and although I am still torn and wondering whether or not it was the right decision, I thought that I would try and explain to you why.
Dave Hahn always says that he wants to climb mountains with people who climb with their head. Now, I don't always understand everything that Dave Hahn says (ha) and he says a lot of things (ha again), but what I think he means by this is that he wants team mates and climbers who think about the repercussions of their actions, who think about how they are physically feeling, and who don't push themselves into dangerous situations.
Secondly, my dad ended his trip between Camps 2 and 3 (he says its closer to Camp 3, but whatever - ha). The end result is that after May 3rd he wasn't climbing with me anymore. So, for the first time in all our adventures, I had to be climbing by myself. Its been a bummer. Why I climb is for fun, and to be with my dad. And over the past 3 weeks its turned from being a fun experience to really more of a chore. Dave and Linden are awesome guides and great people, but they are not my dad.
So, part of my job as a climber is to think (I know this sounds funny, but I know that a lot of climbers don't think). I have to think about how I am feeling, how strong I am, how much energy I have, and how much I "want it." As we started out our summit bid climb yesterday (the 17th), I was feeling physically strong, but I started to doubt that risking so very much was worth the summit to me.
I don't expect others to understand why I lost my desire to go for the summit and to take the risks needed to do so. All I know is that you just can't manufacture desire to do this. So, as we got to our first break through the Ice fall I told Dave and Linden about my thoughts, and we decided to re-assess and walk back down. What I also didn't want to happen was to push myself to a very high point on the mountain, say 26,000 feet, have the winds blowing at 40 miles per hour, and me not wanting to go on. Then I would have not only have put our entire teams' summit chances in jeopardy, but I would have also created a huge safety situation. People would have had to put their lives on the line to get me off the mountain, and I wasn't going to allow that to happen.
After we got back to Basecamp yesterday, I knew I had to make a decision. The more I thought about it, the more the right decision became clear - but repercussions of that decision were so scary to me that it took me awhile to make it. I'm was (and am) afraid that people will be disappointed in me, that people will believe that I gave up without trying. As I sit here I struggle with the same thoughts, did I give it my best shot? Am I just giving up? The more I think about it though, the more I am reminded of the reason I love going on expeditions so much, and that is because I love to climb, not because I love to summit. The summit is the icing on the cake, but you can still have a great cake without icing. I've done some amazing climbing here, and I think the difficulty of the climbing and the way I've climbed safely and quickly on this mountain has been as good as anyone.
However, I still have a lot of regrets. The repercussions of my decision have made this last day a hard one. I feel horrible everything that has been "invested" in me over the last year to get me to this point and I will not summit. For a year I have been training, buying gear, ice climbing, backpacking and getting ready for a summit bid on Everest, and then when it comes along I have decided not to go. I know my teachers at school have made great sacrifices and invested a lot of time outside the classroom with me to allow me to go on this trip. I thank all the people who have been rooting me on, and sending me messages encouraging me on this climb.
But I also know that it is the right decision. I do have regrets about this, and I know in the coming months that I will have even more, but I just don't think that I am willing to risk what you have to risk to try to summit this mountain. I also think that it is just too difficult for me to access those risks up high without my dad being there. And if I assess those risks incorrectly, the costs are just too much.
So, all I ask of you is to know that I tried my hardest and please don't be disappointed in me for not reaching the summit. Sometimes its really not about the summit of the mountain, but what you've learned and experienced along the way.
Perhaps climbing a mountain isn't really about the mountain at all.
Sara McGahan
Sara, when I first heard about your decision not to summit, I wanted to jump to conclusions however, our friends helped me to understand what a strong person you are and we are all DEFINITELY SO VERY PROUD OF YOU. All of us were waiting to hear the story from you before being disappointed, and we all know the sacrifices you made and if you are happy, we are happy. Although summiting would have been an amazing experience, if you are okay without it, so are we. We are so proud of how far you made it and you will definitely go down in history maybe not for the summit but for the smart decision you made. You will be an example and a legend for future climbers. Hopefully when you come home, we can all catch up and you can fill us in on all of the wonderful memories you have made and you can reminisce on the climb. Yeah, we will wonder what could’ve happened but our curiosity is trumped by our happiness that you are safe and sound at home with us. Just know that we are all proud of you and you are a fantastic person and everyone who is disappointed in you, does not know your story. You know I am a harsh person and I hold you up to the highest standards, and even I am totally okay with your decision and GOT YOUR BACK.
I love you, Sara and hope you have some quick flights home because I cannot wait to see you!
Love, Kathryn M.
Posted by: Kathryn M on 5/20/2011 at 8:14 am
Sara and Bill,
We have all been following your blog and praying for you.
All we have to do is look at the incredible pictures to see that you have ACCOMPLISHED more than most of us ever would dream of even attempting. So, congratulations on your climb and the successes you experienced along the way. I think there are many folks in Atlanta who will be happy to have you back safe and sound a little earlier than the original plan.
Posted by: Jennifer Leinweber on 5/20/2011 at 6:50 am
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Hey Solveig!!!
Just wanted to say hello and we are thinking of you!! Hope the weather gets better and everything goes smoothly.. Dylan wanted me to tell you he says hello and give you kisses!! :) He is getting so big, can’t wait to skype next!!
wishing you and the team good luck and good weather!!!
LOVE YOU!!!!!
Posted by: Tove on 5/20/2011 at 3:21 pm
I look forward to reading your blog. Stay strong and enjoy!
Drew, I love you and was thinking of you a lot yesterday. Mom
Posted by: Shirl on 5/20/2011 at 2:59 pm
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