Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Turn Below the Summit

June 27, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,000'

Wednesday, June 26th, 2013 We woke up around 7:30 with clear skies and no winds. We set off towards the summit with all of the crew feeling great. We experienced a little bit of wind and clouds at Denali Pass, but that is pretty normal. The climb was going smoothly and the weather was about as perfect as you can get. We were about 150 feet below the summit ridge when the clouds came in and blocked out our sun. All of a sudden we heard a crack of thunder and all of the metal around us began to buzz. We hightailed it down to a depression in a feature called the football field where things seemed to be calm. By calm, I mean a whiteout snowstorm came out of nowhere! We hunkered down and waited to see if things would settle down. When we were certain they would not, we worked our way down the mountain with GPS and some wands that mark the trail. After a fourteen hour climbing day, our whole team is back in camp happy, healthy, and fed having come a few hundred feet short of the summit but without a permanent stutter from electrocution! Our plan is to rest tomorrow and perhaps give the summit another go in the next few days. We will see. Goodnight! RMI McKinley Summit Team 6

RMI Guide Mike Haugen calls in from 17 camp after their summit attempt.

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I’m shocked (seriously, no pun intended) to hear about the storm. SO close. You are all truly amazing and great to hear Mike’s voice. Cheering you on, thinking about you all, KAC.

Posted by: Kconstantine on 6/27/2013 at 8:02 pm

there will be an other opportunity am sure! glad you are all ok .rest well.lots of love to Lance

Posted by: elisabeth on 6/27/2013 at 5:18 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Get Ready in Talkeetna

June 27, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Zeb Blais, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 358'

Wednesday, June 26th, 2013 The climbing team ate a hardy breakfast at The Talkeetna Roadhouse. We talked climbing and safety as we chewed bacon and swilled coffee. Our excellent meal prepared us for a giant day of packing and organizing to fly on to Denali. Longtime legendary NPS climbing ranger Roger Robinson gave our pre-climb briefing at the ranger station, after which we trooped on out to the K2 Aviation hangar to get into the nuts and bolts of getting our gear ready for the mountain. We worked through some unbelievably hot hours, checking tents, stoves, ropes, pots and clothes. Massive cumulonimbus clouds formed as the day went along and thunder boomed, but the storm never really hit Talkeetna. We enjoyed a great dinner together at the popular West Rib Pub and then turned in. All were intent on resting up from this big and busy day to be ready for a bigger and busier day tomorrow, hopefully one that gets us onto Denali. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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To Max and my Dad: Wanted to let you know that although the wifi here is limited, I’m still able to check up on the blog at least once a day. Thinking of you and wishing you the best! Have a safe climb!

Posted by: Ellie on 6/27/2013 at 12:26 pm

Dave Hahn and Team -

Sounds like that warm weather is still hanging around up there. I’ve followed some of the previous RMI teams and they were all hit with hot weather at some point during their climbs.

I bet the lower Kahiltna has opened up quite a bit and you will have a severe zig-zag path through that area.
Have a safe climb!

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/27/2013 at 8:07 am

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Mt. McKinley: Team Van Deventer Moves to 14,200’ Camp

June 26, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Hello all from 14k! We made our move up today to 14,200' Camp under sunny skies and calm conditions, and moved into a beautiful camp with tent platforms, walls, and kitchen already in place, just needing a bit of buffing out. We've been napping for the last couple of hours, and are about to cook up a big burrito dinner. The weather looks to be holding for the foreseeable future, so we're going to head back to our cache at 13,000' tomorrow and try to keep the forward momentum rolling. We'll touch base tomorrow! Cheers from the team, RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and all

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Hola Guapo
Checking in to see how you are doing.It seems like you’ve been away for months already!
Its exciting to check in daily to see where you are….and you are getting closer!
Hope you enjoyed your burritos tonight…...we had a four-star dinner of Kraft Mac and cheese and succotash; you aren’t missing much!
missing you! STAY STRONG! YOU CAN DO IT!!!
xo Guapa and Maya

Posted by: marion and maya on 6/27/2013 at 9:04 pm

Tom, I hope your trip is going well. We’re all waiting for your triumphant return. As Rhonda said, we’re putting updates together for everyone following you and can’t wait to hear all about it. Stay safe, stay warm, and in Eric’s words “Think snow!”
Cheers

Posted by: Milo on 6/27/2013 at 5:36 am

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Walter’s Team Enjoys some R&R at Chilcabamba Eco Lodge

June 26, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

We just enjoyed a much needed rest day at the Hacienda, Chilcabamba, a beautiful rural farmhouse/bed and breakfast situated just outside of Cotopaxi National Park. The serene location is perfect for relaxation and recuperation, in preparation for our summit attempt on Cotopaxi. We have enjoyed good views of Cotopaxi and our climbing route from Chilcabamba all day today. Tomorrow, we'll pack up and head to the climbers' hut on Cotopaxi, at roughly 16,000'. An early alpine start on Thursday will see us ascending the steep, glaciated slopes of Cotopaxi, hopefully en route to a successful summit. We'll keep you abreast of our progress. Stay tuned! RMI Guide Mike Walter

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For Jeff Oderman:

Your fan club here in SoCal is sending you lots of push energy for the next summit. Good luck on the ascent and lots of love from here. Kit, Art and Lynn

Posted by: Kit Spaulding on 6/28/2013 at 8:53 am

what an amazing trip! love the pics.

Posted by: Theresa Sparks on 6/27/2013 at 11:07 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 26th Update

June 26, 2013

Posted by: Casey Grom, Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

Strong winds with gusts of 60 mph, new snow, and poor visibility kept our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Casey Grom and Elias de Andres Martos at Camp Muir today. After the teams have breakfast and pack up, they will begin their descent to Paradise.

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Not sure if this is the team with our fearless leader CPK. We are all here back at home base ST Francis in CT rooting you all on!! Be safe!

Posted by: Michelle Carrier on 6/28/2013 at 7:25 pm

Hello Lois, Nila and companions.
A thoughtful note since your at Camp Muir:
Everybody need beauty as well as bread, places to play and pray in, where nature may heal and cheer and give strength to the body and soul alike. John Muir 1912
seems like your there, be safe, charlie

Posted by: charlie rizzo on 6/27/2013 at 7:06 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Arrive in Talkeetna

June 26, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 358'

The last RMI Denali team of the 2013 climbing season is in place in Talkeetna. All people (12) and all baggage (24 plus) made it to Anchorage without delay. We met at four in the afternoon and shortly thereafter we'd connected with Bill, our Denali Overland shuttle driver and we began the shuttle to Talkeetna. We got to feel the much discussed heat wave... It was hot. We took a short break in Wasilla, to take on final provisions, and then Bill took us up to Talkeetna town. Most elected to take it easy on this jet lagged evening, settling down to a comfy night in the Talkeetna Motel. Work starts tomorrow. (And there will be pictures) Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Crossing Their Fingers

June 25, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Tuesday, June 25th, 2013 We are headed to the summit tomorrow... maybe! Our team is strong, healthy, and happy. We are positioned at 17,000' camp and had frenetic weather all day. We have had sunny, cloudy, windy, cold, and warm weather. Welcome to Denali. We are waiting for a good set of weather to go to the summit, which is predicted to be tomorrow. Cross your fingers for us! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and RMI Summit Team 6

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Good luck everyone! Michael said he saw you at 14k camp and you looked strong! Jack and I are crossing our fingers - we’re so proud of all of you, and we love you Quinn!

Posted by: Liz and Jack on 6/27/2013 at 2:49 am

Great job dad!!! Waiting for you safe and sound at home!

Posted by: Vikky on 6/26/2013 at 11:04 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Cache Gear at 13,200’

June 25, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Tuesday, June 25th, 2013 We are back at our 11k camp after a very successful day of carrying and caching gear at 13,200. What had been a pretty busy camp now feels like a ghost town, as most teams in camp got an early start this morning to move to 14,000. We also had a decently early start to try to beat the heat, and by 1 pm, we were back in camp snacking and napping. We'll be a day behind the main pack; everyone did excellently today, and so the plan is to move ourselves to 14k tomorrow! That will put us in great position, and one step closer to our goal. Best to everyone back home. Cheers, RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and the gang

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Wyatt, thinking of you - your entire family…extended famliy….and friends…. are sending good thoughts your way. Be safe and enjoy this experience, M&D

Posted by: Marian Evenson on 6/26/2013 at 6:01 pm

Hi Daddy,
I made chocolate brownie sundaes tonight ,wish you were here!
I miss you telling me to clean my room 24/7 ha ha ha ha.
Piffy and Chan miss you!
Is that you in the blue coat in this picture?
I really do miss you!
Bring me back a baby Yeti!
Love Maya
xxoo

Posted by: maya on 6/26/2013 at 5:01 pm

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Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Team Returns from Cayambe Climb

June 25, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Hey, this is Mike Walter calling on Tuesday the 25th of June. We are all at Chilcabamba Hacienda outside of Cotopaxi National Park. We spent two days at Cayambe, sleeping up above 15,000'. Yesterday we went out for our summit bid on Cayambe, we had a great day of climbing. The winds turned us around above 18,000'. We were within about 1,000' of the summit maybe 700' of the summit. But the winds, a cloud cap and some riming ice on our clothing turned us around. We are back at Chilcabamba resting and we'll head to Cotopaxi tomorrow to attempt that one. We are all doing well and enjoying our climbing here in Ecuador.

RMI Guide Mike Walter checks in from Ecuador after Cayambe climb.

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Mt. Rainier: June 25th Update

June 25, 2013

Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Win Whittaker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,500'

The Five Day Summit Climbs June 21 - 25 led by Seth Waterfall and Win Whittaker were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams climbed to 10,500’ before deciding to turn around due to snow conditions and high winds. The Five Day Kautz Climb led by Adam Knoff moved up to their High Camp at the western edge of the Turtle snowfield between 9,400' - 10,500' yesterday. They will spend today training at the Castle. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by Billy Nugent arrived at Inter Glacier yesterday afternoon. They will be moving to Camp Schurman today.

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Turn Below the Summit

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Get Ready in Talkeetna

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Team Van Deventer Moves to 14,200’ Camp

On The Map

Ecuador Volcanoes: Walter’s Team Enjoys some R&R at Chilcabamba Eco Lodge

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Mt. Rainier: June 26th Update

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Arrive in Talkeetna

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Crossing Their Fingers

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Cache Gear at 13,200’

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Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Team Returns from Cayambe Climb

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 25th Update

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