Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Alan Davis, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 18,655'
After two nights of being spoiled with plush mattresses and running water in the Llaca Valley Refugio the team put in a full day (16 hours) of climbing and was rewarded with a breathtaking sunrise and perfect weather on the summit of Vallunaraju at 18, 655 ft.
With only a few hours of sleep and some hot coffee and tea, we departed Vallunaraju basecamp with a classic alpine start at 11 pm. After a 3.5-hour approach on a rugged climber’s trail, we donned our boots and crampons and climbed a full pitch of alpine ice—a highlight of the climb. We then meandered through a maze of icy crevasses and steep snow until we gained the col between Vallunaraju’s north and south summits. The beautiful alpine sunrise provided the mental boost needed to gain the summit ridge and ascend the final 300 feet of steep snow to the summit. With only a breath of wind and smiles all around, we took in the views of the greater Cordillera Blanca and got a sneak peek of what’s to come in the Ishinca Valley.
We reversed course and began our descent in the sunshine, looking down at the city of Huaraz where a hot shower and bed awaited us. With tired bodies and full hearts, we were greeted with a bowl of hot soup and tea at basecamp. We then packed up our duffels and headed back to Huaraz via the rugged trail of a "road," thankful for a safe and successful climb.
The team enjoyed a well-deserved rest day in Huaraz, just enough time to unpack and repack duffels. Today, we are headed into the Ishinca Valley where we will establish basecamp for the next five nights. We will be focusing on climbing skills and resting up for more summit attempts.
RMI Guide Tatum Whatford & Team
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Posted by: Drew O’Brien, Nick Sinapius, Arianna Drechsler, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland, Stella Johnson, Claire Pennell
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb July 15 - 18 led by RMI Guides Drew O'Brien and Leif Bergstrom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 7 am. The team reported a warm morning with low winds and cloud deck below near 6,000'. The teams spent a bit of time on the summit before starting their descent. Once back at Camp Muir the climbers will repack and continue the remaining 4,500' to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
PC: Drew O'Brien
Posted by: Jess Wedel, Josh Geiser, Avery Stolte
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
The Mount Baker Easton Team stood on the summit this morning with all climbers!
It was a perfect climb with a slight breeze and some clouds to keep us cool on the way down. We’re back at Sandy Camp watching a beautiful sunset and will walk back out to the trailhead tomorrow morning.
RMI Guide Jess Wedel and Team
Posted by: Walter Hailes, Calvin Jiricko, Bailey Servais, Mitch Valaitis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
After several days of training and climbing, the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz July 14 - 19 team, led by RMI Guides Walter Hailes, Calvin Jiricko, Bailey Servais and Mitch Valaitis, put it all together and made their climb to the summit of Mt. Rainier. Walter reported a beautiful day with light winds and good climbing conditions. The team started their descent from the crater rim around 7:30 am. They will return to their High Camp for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow they will finish up any training, descend to the trailhead and return to Rainier BaseCamp to conclude their adventure.
Congratulations to the team!
Posted by: Daniel May, Mac Nolde
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
RMI Guides Dan May and Mac Nolde summitted Mt. Baker with our Footprints of Fight team right at sunset. They enjoyed beautiful couple of days training and honing their mountaineering skills at the base of an iconic peak in the Cascades.
Congrats team!
Posted by: Alan Davis, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 14,600'
Checking in from Vallunaraju Basecamp!
We had an early start from town and made our way up the rugged 4x4 roads to our Basecamp for the next couple nights at 14,600.
Upon arriving, we wasted no time and started our acclimatization approach to the glacier which currently sits at nearly 16,600. Here we spent the afternoon on Glacier travel skills, rope techniques, and arresting a fall. Once back at camp we enjoyed a hot meal of crusted trout and potatoes. Tomorrow we will rest.
RMI Guide Alan Davis
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Posted by: Casey Grom, Tom Skoog, Jack Ritterson, Joe Hoch, Lacie Smith, Celeste Wilson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Joe Hoch reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 9 am this morning. The team climbed in beautiful calm weather. They are on the descent to Camp Muir where they will spend one more night before returning to Ashford Basecamp.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Jackson Breen, Mike Bennett
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,131'
RMI Guides Jackson Breen and Mike Bennett lead their Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys July 14 - 16 team to the summit with 100% of their team. They climbed the SE ridge to the summit on Monday and plan to descend via the Fisher Chimneys route today.
Nice work team!
Posted by: Brent Okita, Sam Hoffman, Will Ambler, Roland Scott, Stella Johnson, Hannah Billings
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Five Day Climb July 11 - 15 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Sam Hoffman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today on a beautiful day. The team is currently on their descent. Their patience paid off as they waited yesterday for many RMI Guides to reestablish the route to the summit. The teams will return to Camp Muir to repack and rehydrate before continuning down the remaining 4.5 miles to Paradise later today.
Congratulations climbers and a HUGE thank you to all the guides working on the route over the last several days!
PC: Stella Johnson
Shoutout to Sam and Roland for making this an incredible experience! The fact that you worked longer hours to ensure we had an alternative route to reach the summit is what made this entire trip! I have nothing but great things to say about you both! I hope to climb a different destination with you both one day in the future! Thank you again!
Posted by: Jade Craig on 7/16/2024 at 8:23 pm
I won’t be on the DC route next week when I climb, but wanted to thank the guides for working hard to re-establish the route around what sounded like a gnarly crevasse collapse. Congrats to the climbers that reached the summit. Enjoy the Rainier Beer and cider.
Posted by: Constantine Velentzas on 7/15/2024 at 2:10 pm
Posted by: Alan Davis, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 10,000'
It was such a treat to again be able to enjoy the bustling coastal grandeur of Lima and watching surf for a night before the next long travel leg. As we arrived by bus two nights ago, we were greeted with our first views of the Cordillera Blanca and the towering giant that is Huascaran. We were welcomed back by the always friendly staff at the Andino Club Hotel. A true climbers hotel with some Swiss roots. It was so great to catch up with our local partner and guide Peter Alvarado as well as some of the other support staff with whom we hadn't seen in a couple years. Tired from multiple days of travel via busses and planes we quickly enjoyed dinner and got settled into our rooms for a full nights rest 10,000’.
Acclimatization has been going well thus far here in Huaraz. Not only have we been sleeping at 10,000', but yesterday, we went for a hike a few hours round-trip walk from our hotel to the "Puca Ventana" or "Red Window" which overlooks the city. Today, we went up to 14,700' on another hike to the beautiful turquoise Laguna which sits in front of the 18,000' "Nevado Churup." Early to bed for some rest and last minute gear shuffling before we begin our trek into the the Lllaca Valley where we will set up our basecamp at around 14,500’ for the next few days as we prepare for our first objective of Vallunaraju.
RMI Guide Alan Davis
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Hi,
Please share photos of your adventure, if at all possible. (The Peru Seminar is one I’ve been mulling over for quite awhile now—the Cordillera Blanca seem absolutely magical to me.)
Posted by: Some guy from Puyallup on 7/14/2024 at 5:55 pm
Congratulations! Was this via DC route? I’m assuming the ladders are back up now on that route? Thank you!
Posted by: Johnny on 7/19/2024 at 6:08 am
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