Entries from Locations

Wednesday, May 21, 2025 - 10:59 pm PT

Sunshine!

It was great to see the sun today. After a leisurely breakfast we got our one main task done for the day, going to pick up our cache at 10,200ft. Despite some annoyingly cold wind and deep trail breaking, we got this done in a short three hours.  The rest of the day was spent relaxing and resting up. Tomorrow we hope to climb higher, putting in a cache just above Windy Corner around 13,500'.

RMI Guide Seth Burns

Wednesday, May 21, 2025 - 10:29 pm PT

Things started to turn nicer up on our big hill. The snow and clouds blew out today, winds quieted, and we spent the day addressing logistical hurdles. The first was that we found out last night that the downline of the fixed lines hadn’t been freed of its icy tomb, so there was a rope going up but not down- recipe for a traffic jam. We made a plan with teams from AMS to send a couple of guides from each team up to sledge hammer out the lines. Accordingly that meant we couldn’t go for a carry as a team. Additionally another guided team needed a guide loan to get their back carry in. So, Nick helped another team with their carry, got back in time for Ben and Pete to head uphill, then Nick took the group to the Edge of the World to look down on the lower Kahiltna Glacier and our first camp at Ski Hill. We were all reunited this evening over a tortellini dinner, and we’ll assess whether to get our carry in tomorrow!

Full team day.

RMI Guides Pete, Nick, Ben, and team

PC: Pete Van Deventer, Edge of the World. From Previous Expedition

Tuesday, May 20, 2025 - 9:59 pm PT

We had a brief burst of excitement waking up this morning as it was clearer than it’s been in awhile, but as we watched and inspected more closely, it was quite clear that the wind was quite strong along the West Buttress. We continued to watch and hope, but by mid morning it was evident that today was a day to rest. The sun did spend a good amount of time out, turning the tents into saunas. Several skiers in camp also went for laps below the fixed lines, so we watched the ski show as well. We’ll keep getting up early to check and see if it is our day and when it presents, the team is primed and ready!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Tuesday, May 20, 2025 - 9:52 pm PT 

Dear Baby Winter,

Just like in the book that we read before coming out here, “Oh the Places, You’ll Go,” today our group walked through an area that I can’t wait to tell you all about. We started this morning not entirely sure if we were going to continue up today due to the weather being a little iffy but Seth made the call for us to venture out with the goal of reaching 11,000' Camp. The walk up was incredibly challenging, the combination of wind and snow with weighted packs and sleds, made this climb like nothing I’ve ever done. The weather created what seemed to be a complete white out, like walking through a cloud. With only being able to differentiate by looking around at my fellow climbers. Thinking of you and your mother pushed me forward and most importantly our excellent guides kept us safe while out there. Each day that I’m here, Denali continues to teach me something that I hope to one day hand down to you and that’s that sometimes the most rewarding moments in life, are the ones that you’ve earned through working for them. Now it’s time for a hot meal, we’re having ramen tonight, cant wait! I miss you more than words will allow.

Love Dad (Juan)

Tuesday, May 20, 2025 - 12:31 pm PDT

Well, we woke up this morning to much better weather. Headed over to the cook tent for a quick bowl or two of Cinnamon Toast Crunch and coffee.  Breakfast of champions! We got our sleds and packs ready to set off for our first cache of the expedition. Everybody was anxious to get going after a great rest day.  Many other teams had the same idea, and we certainly didn’t mind a few of them in front of us breaking trail after we got about a foot of snow at camp in the last 24hrs.  All three teams were moving great up the mountain led by our fearless leaders Seth, Jackson and Ray.  They rock!  We had three breaks on the way up and as we moved up the mountain, clouds and a wisp of wind and snow started to move in. We reached 10,200' and cached our gear and food.  Super nice being able to walk downhill with a light pack and no sled! We made our way quickly downhill passing teams as we did on the way up. We are now snug back at our lower camp waiting for what we know will be an amazing dinner of jambalaya. Being originally from Louisiana and all…no pressure on Chef Ray.  Ha!

Our team is really firing on all cylinders and feeling good. Happy for that!  Hydrating, fixing feet and getting some rest are on the agenda after dinner. Oh, and the skies parted on the way back a bit giving us spectacular views when we arrived back at camp, so grateful to be in this moment.

RMI Climber Shannon and Team

Monday, May 19, 2025 - 6:37 pm PT

We took a full and proper rest day today. It has been snowing more or less all day in camp, and the winds started to pick up a bit this afternoon. That made it easy to take a long breakfast, rest and read in tents, and take naps throughout the day. We spent a bit of time building some snow walls, which everyone got quite excited about, and some more time reviewing fixed line techniques for when we go higher. We are working on a reindeer sausage jambalaya for dinner, and we'll see if the snow and wind let up over night.

RMI Guides Pete, Nick, Ben and team

Sunday, May 18, 2025 - 11:35 pm PT

Cache retrieval complete! It was an in and out snowy day, at time hot, at times cold, but winds stayed light so we bopped back to 13,500ft and retrieved our goodies. The rest of the day we rested and took stock. Most realized they have some work ahead to catch up on lunch food eating. Tomorrow looks snowy so we’ll take a full rest day, probably build some walls, and Ben has a short seminar called “get your fix” to get everyone ready for the fixed lines above. And though this will post tomorrow morning, Brian wants to wish Lacey a very happy anniversary (and we wish the same to them both!). 

Best from 14,000' Camp to everyone at home,
RMI Guides Pete, Ben, Nick, and team

Mt. Baker Ski & Summit May 17 - 19:
Led by RMI Guide Sam Marjerison the team practice skills and did some ski touring yesterday. They arrived back to camp and settled in after turning around at 7,400 feet due to whiteout conditions. They are planning to enjoy a morning ski before making their exit around midday.

May 16–19 Four-Day Climb Update:
The climbing teams, led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Joe Hoch, departed Camp Muir at 3:00 a.m. for their summit attempt. They reached Ingraham Flats; however, deteriorating weather conditions forced them to turn back. The teams have returned safely to Camp Muir and plan to begin their descent around 10:00 a.m., when a break in the weather is expected.

PC: Nina Bridges, Joey Manship, Joe Hoch

Sunday, May 18, 2025 - 1:41 pm PT

We woke up yesterday and though there were thick clouds above that moved in and out, it was clear that the air was incredibly calm. We packed up camp shouldered some heavy loads, and said goodbye to our camp at 11,000'. We were in those clouds nearly all the way to 14,000', but they were holding in the solar gain and it was one of the hottest days of the trip. Overall, it was quite smooth and we made it to 14,000' Camp yesterday evening, set up camp, and crashed for a night of well deserved rest. It’s great to finally be at 14,000'. This is our home away from home, where we’ll rest, acclimate, get strong, and wait for our shot at the summit. The views out over the rest of the range are stunning. We’re prepping right now for a quick trip back to 13,500' to grab our cache, and then we’ll rest the remainder of the day. It’s starting to snow lightly and the next couple of days do look snowy.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer