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Entries from Peru


Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Descent to the Trailhead Return to Huaraz

Amazing to think that just 24 hours ago we were striking our high camp on Alpamayo at 17,500’ in the snow, ice, cold and wind and now we are hiking in T-shirts and shorts past cactus and gorgeous rivers.  Back in Base Camp this morning we had a very civilized breakfast of bacon and eggs with lots of strong coffee, loading donkeys and shortly after 9 AM we hit the trail.  Chased by clouds and propelled by music the 6 hour hike back to Casha Pompa went by quickly and by mid afternoon we were sitting in a courtyard sweaty, dirty, but happy with a beer in hand.  Then a three hour van ride brought us back to Huaraz.  After cleaning ourselves up we met for drinks and dinner at the Andino and realized that we are all still on mountain time.  Most people are starting dinner around the time we are ready for bed.
Because we didn’t use our weather day we have bought ourselves an extra day here in Huaraz, we will most likely sleep in, slowly re enter the “real world” and wander around town tomorrow.  We are all happy to be back.
Thanks for following along

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo Team

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Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Descend to Base Camp

Alpamayo team heading down hill.
As we crawled out of our tents this chilly morning we saw clouds whipping around Alpamayo and throughout the range. Very glad we climbed yesterday. We packed up, had coffee and began our descent by mid morning. Three rappels from the col got us back on the glacier and easy walking back to Moraine Camp. The team did great despite being tired form the efforts of yesterday. At Moraine Camp we took a good long break before shouldering our heavy packs again. We picked our way through the rocks and slabs leading back to Base Camp. Ilario, our base camp cook, was waiting and had individual pizzas for us shortly after rolling in. We are all glad to be back in the land of trees and grass, tired but happy. This afternoon we are organizing gear for the donkeys to haul down tomorrow and resting. Tomorrow we will make the walk all the way to Casha Pompa, and catch our shuttle back to Huaraz.

That’s all for now,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the A Team

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Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Reach Summit!

The team summits Alpamayo!
We had a spectacular climb starting this morning just after midnight. A short walk on the glacier slowly became steeper as we approach the massive wall of ice and snow in front of us. Once we crossed the bergschrund we pointed our headlamps up the runnel but our lights were lost in snow ice and darkness above. We began pitching it out, climbing a full rope length before building an anchor and belaying the second climber up. In this fashion we inch-wormed our way up into the steep snow and ice. The climbing was superb, soft enough to accept the pick of an ice tool but firm enough to support a crampon. We climbed nine of the 12 pitches in the dark, but as we closed in on the summit the sun began rising across the Cordillera Blanca. Truly outstanding views as we celebrated on the summit before making our descent back down the face. Seven full length rappels brought us to the glacier below and then on to our High Camp. Extremely tired but also satisfied the team is eating, drinking, and napping for the rest of the day before making our descent to Base Camp tomorrow.
Thanks for all the support and following along on this incredible expedition.

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo Team

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Congratulations to all of you!!!  Spectacular photos.

Be safe.

Posted by: Lisa on 7/24/2017 at 3:01 pm


Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Take a Rest Day At High Camp

After a couple hard days of climbing we took a rest day today to acclimatize and rest up for our summit bid tonight. Everyone is doing very well and as we put the final touches on packing and organizing the excitement is palpable. It has been a calm and sunny day with the beautiful south face of Alpamayo hanging above us.
That’s all for now.
More tomorrow after our summit bid

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo Team

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Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Ascend to High Camp

After a tough day the team is chilling at high camp, tired but very happy. We woke up early this morning to beat the heat on the glacier, though inevitably it caught us. Slow and steady was the name of the game as we pushed into the 17,000 foot world. After a couple hours on the lower glacier we got the the steep steps leading to the Col. Two pitches of steep ice and snow, with full packs, put us on the Col and looking right at the impressive south face of Alpamayo. Another two minute stroll brought us to our high camp. Once we had tents set up everyone settled in to get out of the sun and catch a few zzz’s before dinner. Despite being tired the team is happy, healthy and excited for our climb. We will take a full rest day tomorrow so we can make our summit bid with all our reserves roped off.
That’s all for now.
Thanks for staying with us throughout this incredible adventure

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

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Send it guys!

Posted by: Elias on 7/23/2017 at 11:50 am


Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Ascend to Moraine Camp

Good evening from Moraine Camp.
The Alpamayo team woke this morning to lots of coffee and a delicious breakfast, as per usual at Base Camp. After breakfast we spent the morning packing and discussing various gear options. Today was another beautiful sunny day so after we were packed we lounged in the sun and read our books until lunch time. Finally after lunch we decided we aught to do a little work so we shouldered our packs and started the hike to Moraine Camp. Despite it being sunny a slight breeze kept the afternoon hike very comfortable. By late afternoon we were settling in, enjoying the views, and sipping tea.
Tomorrow we will rise early and hit the glacier leading us up to the Col and then High Camp.

Thanks for following along with us,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team

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Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Take a Well Deserved Rest Day

This morning we woke when the sun hit our tents and proceed to drink lots of coffee with and ate an amazing breakfast of bacon, sausage, and eggs. After breakfast we lounged around base camp reading and napping in the sun. After lunch we went for a short 15 min walk up to Laguna Arhuaycocha, a beautiful alpine lake with blue green water. From here the views of Alpamayo, Artesonraju, and Pucarashta were stunning. We sunned ourselves on warm rocks by the lake and took in the amazing mountains surrounding us. After a while we made our way back to camp to relax a bit more before the sun dipped behind the ridge.
This rest day not only helps us recover after three days on our feet but also helps our body’s acclimatize. Everyone is feeling great and ready to move up hill tomorrow.
Thanks for following along

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

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Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Ascend to Moraine Camp

The Alpamayo team is doing great!  This morning we had a leisurely breakfast and began packing for our carry to Moraine Camp. We waved goodbye to Elias and his team as they started their descent to Casha Pompa and by mid morning we shouldered our packs and began hiking. The trail to Moraine Camp weaves through a boulder field as it ascends towards the glacier above. With blue skies overhead we all found ourselves pausing to taken on the spectacular views of the Cordillera Blanca. Once at Moraine Camp, 16,100 feet, we unload our equipment and relaxed for a bit before starting our descent back to BC. After rolling into base camp we enjoyed some delicious soup and spent the afternoon relaxing, reading, or napping. Tomorrow will be our first true rest day, and despite the fact that everyone is strong and healthy we need it more for acclimatization.
That’s it for now.
Thanks for following along

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team

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Alpamayo: Elias & Team Back in the Thicker Air of Base Camp

Greetings from Alpamayo BC!

We initiated our descent this morning from high camp and retraced our steps back out of the kingdom of the ice and into the warm confines of base camp. We are excited to savor lower altitude air and the amazing food of our cook. Our plan is to head out tomorrow and get into town in the evening. We are all super proud of our climb, yet looking forward to telling our accounts in person to our loved ones, so stay tuned for our arrival tomorrow into town!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

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Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Arrive at Base Camp

Alpamayo team to Base Camp.
This morning we woke to a light wind and scattered clouds making for chilly start to the day. Lucky we had a hot breakfast and many cups of hot coffee and as we hit the trail we were quite happy with the cooler hiking weather. The team did great and as we climbed the switchbacks out of the Santa Cruz Valley we got our first glimpse of Alpamayo. By midday we had arrived to our Base Camp, unloaded the donkeys, and set up camp. This afternoon Elias and his team descended to BC after their successful summit yesterday, so we all hung out and told stories. We are all very happy to be settled into our new home for the next few days. Tomorrow we will carry a load of gear up to Moraine Camp in the morning and then rest and relax in the afternoon.
That’s all for now.
Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the A Team

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