Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Move to 14,000 Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall | July 04, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

July 4, 2015 1:11 am PST

This was the day.  The weather was a whole lot better than the last few days, but it wasn’t perfect.  A little blustery.  We needed to take advantage though to get out of 11,000’  and up to 14,000’ Camp.  Even having had a handful of teams break trail on the route before we made our effort today, we still anticipated a tough haul with knee deep snow on such steep hills.  Motorcycle took longer than normal, Squirrel took longer, the Polo Fields went on forever, Windy Corner was windy (and it took longer).  It was all pretty tough going until we got around the corner and reached our cache location from the other day.  Finally there was less new snow, less wind and a decent track to follow.  It was still uphill though.  It took us 8.5 hours to cover what should have taken 6 hours, but what a wonderful feeling to roll into 14 Camp after thinking of it so much when we were stuck down below.  We’ve got different and magnificent views now, of Denali, but also of Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter and about a thousand other peaks when the clouds allow.  We did a late dinner after camp was built and then hurried in to the tents for the night.  It is colder up here, and colder still when the sun goes behind the mountain.  Everybody deserves good rest after such a big day. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Climbers on the top of Motorcyle Hill at 11,600 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2015 Email Alerts

10

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Summit!

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JJ Justman | July 04, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early today.  Both teams were beginning their descent from the crater rim around 6:30 am.  RMI Guide JJ Justman reported clear skies and warm temperatures. They will make a short stop at Camp Muir before continuing down to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climbs teams!  Happy Independence Day!

Climbers approaching the summit of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Seth Waterfall

Peru Seminar: The Team Summits Ishinca!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

¡Buenas tardes! The team is back at Basecamp after a great, successful day on 18,143ft Ishinca. Everyone climbed well up the southeast glacier, which provided a steep, yet sun-cupped summit ridge. An early summit allowed us to descend via the southweat side, completing an up and over traverse of the mountain; extra credit for everyone! We’re now looking forward to an active rest day tomorrow, keeping an eye on the weather as our beautiful summit day turned into a dust of unexpected snow at Basecamp this evening.

Best regards from Perú!

RMI Guides Elías de Andres Martos, Robby Young and team

Sign Up For Peru 2015 Email Alerts

2

Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Walter & Team Enjoy the Views Atop Fuya Fuya

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador
Elevation: 13,986'

We packed our bags and left the hustle and bustle of Quito behind this morning, driving north towards the town of Otavalo for our next acclimatization climb. Along the way we had great views of Cotopaxi and Cayambe, the second and third highest peaks in Ecuador, respectively, and our major climbing objectives on this trip.

As for our objective for today, we climbed the ancient volcano Fuya Fuya. The weather couldn’t have been nicer as we summited the 14,000’ peak in t-shirts. On top we had great views of Cayambe, Cotopaxi, and even the top of the ever elusive Antisana, the fourth highest peak in Ecuador.

Our team did great on the climb today, negotiating steep terrain and a little rock scramble. Now we’re at our hacienda, Casa Sol, for the night where a shower, dinner, and a cerveza are on our to do list. After a good night’s rest tonight we’ll head to the famous Otavalo Market in the morning and then up to the climbers hut in the afternoon.

I’ll check in again mañana.
RMI Guide Mike Walter

The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Fuya Fuya with Cayambe in the distance. Photo: Mike Walter The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending a 3rd class ridge on Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter Cayambe as seen from the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter

On The Map

Sign Up For Ecuador 2015 Email Alerts


Forbidden Peak: Davis & Team Summit!

Posted by: Leon Davis, Sid Pattison | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 8,630'

RMI Guides Leon Davis and Sid Pattison led their team to the summit of Forbidden Peak via the West Ridge today. Leon reported great but hot weather during the climb. They also enjoyed a quiet route with only one other party climbing today.

Congratulations to our North Cascades climbers!

The East and West Ridges of Forbidden Peak as seen from Sharkfin Tower in the North Cascades, WA. Photo: Kristina Weller

Mt. McKinley: Smoke & Snow for Hahn & Team at 11,200’

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

The wind and snow conspired to make for a tough and noisy night in the tents last night.  A few intrepid souls got out in the storm to dig away the encroaching drifts.  Morning brought less wind, but the snow continued as the guides served breakfast in bed.  It was slightly surreal to have the strong smell of forest fire smoke mixed in with heavily falling snow while camped so far from trees.  Eventually the snow slowed and then stopped, but by that point, several feet of it had accumulated.  The clouds stayed right in on us until about 8 in the evening.  We were enjoying an open air dinner when the mist fell away, the sun came out and everything got beautiful.  The team stayed out well into the evening, staring at Kahiltna Dome, Mount Foraker and Denali’s West Buttress.  Our prospects for going up in the morning were improved as we watched several teams come down Motorcycle Hill, plowing a trail and cutting whatever tension the otherwise suspect snow-pack was under.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team

11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK with Kahiltna Dome in the distance. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2015 Email Alerts

4

Mt. Rainier: July 3rd Summit!

Posted by: Win Whittaker, Casey Grom | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Casey Grom led the Four Day Summit Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Win and Casey reported beautiful weather and a great route. We look forward to seeing the teams back in Ashford this afternoon.

Congratulations climbers!

The RMI July 3rd Four Day Summit Climb team enroute to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker Sunrise on the Upper Mountain of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
1

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Ready for Ishinca

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 16,300'

Ready to launch!

We’re all set to tackle our first objective tomorrow, Ishinca. We spent the day today training on the glacier, in the 16,300 ft vicinity. Everybody had a blast, performed well, and is excited to begin what soon will be (with permission of the mountain gods) the opening summit. Hoping to check tomorrow from “la cumbre”, that’s it for now.

RMI Guide Elías and team

Sign Up For Peru 2015 Email Alerts

1

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Take a Snow Day at High Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | July 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Thursday, July 2, 2015 - 3:15 pm PT

RMI Guide Mike King called the RMI Office from high camp at 17,200 ft on Mt. McKinley. The team spend a snowy and windy night at camp last night. Today they spent the day resting and drying their gear. The team has received the forecast for tomorrow and are hoping the weather will allow them to make a summit attempt. If the weather permits, they will be heading up hill.

We wish the team luck!

An RMI team building walls at high camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2015 Email Alerts

3

Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Walter & Team Acclimate on Rucu Pichincha

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador
Elevation: 15,696'

We had a successful day today, with everyone climbing strong to reach the summit of Rucu Pichincha (~15,700 ft) on our first acclimatization climb in country. We had great weather with perfect temperatures for climbing, and good views throughout the day.

After a quick cab ride from our hotel, we rode the gondola to ~13,500 ft and then began climbing up the flanks of Rucu. The well graded trail eventually gave way to some steeper switchbacks and then some 3rd class scrambling to the summit.

It was a high altitude record for many of our climbers. We hope to keep breaking those records over the next few days once we get onto Cayambe and Cotopaxi.

Tomorrow morning we’ll pack up and leave Quito, heading north for another acclimatization climb up the ancient volcano Fuya Fuya.

Thanks for checking in. We’ll keep you up to date.
RMI Guide Mike Walter

The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter

On The Map

Sign Up For Ecuador 2015 Email Alerts


Previous Page More Entries

Expedition Stats

Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/2 - 5/12/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/9 - 5/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - 13,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/17 - 5/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine
5/8 - 5/18/2015
The Munchkin - Summit / The Throne - Lost Marsupial - Summit / Big Arapiles - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/22 - 5/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/14 - 5/24/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/24 - 5/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/30/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/28 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/29 - 6/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/5 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/12 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/31 - 6/5/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/3 - 6/6/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/7/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/5 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/6 - 6/9/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/19 - 6/7/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/5 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/7 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/8 - 6/11/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/9 - 6/12/2015
Mt. Rainier - 14,410'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/10 - 6/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/14/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/12 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/12 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/14 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/15 - 6/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/14 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/16 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/17 - 6/20/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/18 - 6/21/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/26 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mt. McKinley Upper West Rib Expedition
5/28 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/20 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/21 - 6/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/22 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/20 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/2 - 6/21/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/23 - 6/26/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/24 - 6/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mt. Baker - North Ridge
6/22 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Baker - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
6/22 - 6/27/2015
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/28/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/26 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,400'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/27 - 6/30/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/28 - 7/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/26 - 7/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/29 - 7/2/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Emmons Climb
6/29 - 7/3/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/30 - 7/3/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mt. Baker - North Ridge
6/26 - 6/28/2015
Mt. Baker - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/9 - 6/28/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/1 - 7/4/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/2 - 7/5/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/2 - 7/6/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit

Recent Images

  • Mt. McKinley's 14K Camp. Photo: John Race
  • View of Mount Rainier from Paradise. Photo: NPS Webcam
  • An RMI team leaving Denali's 11K Camp, descending to Base Camp. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Climbing Nevados Urus in the Ishinca Valley, Peru. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Tocllaraju from Nevados Urus summit. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Mt. Foraker from Mt. McKinley's 14,200' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An art vendor at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • A produce stall at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Locals perusing stalls at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Climbers on the summit ridge of Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The view from the summit of Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers on the top of Motorcyle Hill at 11,600 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers approaching the summit of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Fuya Fuya with Cayambe in the distance. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending a 3rd class ridge on Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Cayambe as seen from the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The East and West Ridges of Forbidden Peak as seen from Sharkfin Tower in the North Cascades, WA. Photo: Kristina Weller
  • 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK with Kahiltna Dome in the distance. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI July 3rd Four Day Summit Climb team enroute to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • Sunrise on the Upper Mountain of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • An RMI team building walls at high camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Stormy conditions at 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climber ascending the Autobahn on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • An RMI Team at Base Camp in the Ishinca Valley, Peru.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos