RMI Expeditions Blog
June 20, 2018
Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 3:09 AM PT
Today we woke to more winter with the wind blowing in our faces as we crawled from our tents. We did an Alaska leisure start. This is when you wake up and wish the weather was better but… will pack slowly. So we crept through the white, snow blowing all around us, and trail blazed through the deep snow. After many hours we arrived in Base Camp in dashing style. The evening was caped with more quesadillas than we could eat and a celebratory beverage. As we nestle in our sleeping bags for what we hope is the last night, we dream of burgers and beverages on the other side….. it’s snowing now, of course. Don’t fret we have had a blast on this adventure though we are bitter with the weather. We will out chill Denali. You can count on it.
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika and Nick Scott
On The Map
Marc - super glad you are headed back to record setting heat here in sunny Las Vegas!! We are all looking forward to hearing your stories, seeing your pics, and having you back!!! Safe travels!! Denette
Posted by: Denette on 6/21/2018 at 11:00 am
Best news I’ve heard in days - Base Camp! May the rest of journey home be an easy one! You are all rock stars in my book for battling the elements and coming out on top! Well done! Coeli. P.S. Nick, you know who your second phone call better be to?! I’ll let Sabina have your first. :)
Posted by: Coeli Scott on 6/21/2018 at 8:40 am
We turned in last night expecting another pulse of wind and snow from the large storm stalled out in Bristol Bay. Instead we slept well through a calm night with little in the way of wind and only minimal snow drift. The West Buttress was windy as noted by the plumes of snow being blown into the atmosphere. We decided to stay in camp should the storm send more weather our way. After a leisurely breakfast of pancakes there was a swell of climbers headed up to 17. Some to pull caches for a descent to Basecamp and some just to stretch the legs and lungs after sitting for several days. Choosing not to get in a traffic jam we decided to stay put. Tomorrow if we are fortunate we’ll head up the fixed lines and hopefully to 17 so we can get some climbing in. Unfortunately we still need a larger window of improving weather to move camp to 17. The forecasts are improving when compared to what we actually experience in camp. Fingers crossed we get 3-4 days of low winds above for a summi t bid. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Scott, hang in there man! Hey, some good news from the Reece clan. We welcomed a new boy this morning! 9lb! Hatcher Chet. Erin and kiddo are doing fine. He was ready get out of his tent and stretch his legs…as you all are I am sure!
Posted by: Luke on 6/20/2018 at 12:33 pm
June 20, 2018
If you were wondering what kind of scenery you can see while climbing Denali, don’t ask us because we haven’t seen anything in days! We are living in a giant ping pong ball where white snow meets white clouds.
We high fived Tyler Jones’s RMI team as they made their way down through the muck headed towards Basecamp.
All we need is a short break in the weather and a small assurance that the next camp will not be any worse than here. We are hoping that tomorrow morning gives us what we need.
The team really is in good spirits considering the amount of tent time that has been logged during this storm and we are not even really on the mountain yet! There has been nothing but positivity and hard work from our Super Crew. So proud!
On The Map
I’m glad you’re up above the snow and out of the ping pong ball.
Happy first day of summer, at the top of the world!
Sending a warm patronus with special attention for toes.
I love you, I’ll see you in our dreams,
PS Tommy sent me the sweetest post card!
Posted by: Lisa Nezwazky on 6/21/2018 at 10:13 am
Happy Birthday, Josh. We love your spirit and determination. See you soon. All our love. Mom and Dad
Posted by: David Levy on 6/21/2018 at 6:12 am
June 20, 2018
RMI Guides Zeb Blais and Kel Rossiter led their Four Day Summit Climb June 17 - 20 teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Kel reported light winds for their climb and a beautiful morning on the mountain.
Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb Teams!
What An amazing view and even more amazing accomplishment!! Congratulations to the team! Shar I knew you could do it! We’re so proud of you
Posted by: Tina on 6/20/2018 at 2:47 pm
Wow! this must be one of the most demanding activities one can undertake…both physically and mentally…Congrats to all on your courage and determination.
(So proud of you Shar! You rock!)
Posted by: Alex & Suzi Mikaelian on 6/20/2018 at 2:28 pm
June 19, 2018
Tuesday, June 19, 2018 - 12:29 AM PT
Victory!! Eight climbers and four guides made their way -with heaps of luggage- from various far away places in the “lower 48” to Talkeetna, Alaska. We met this afternoon down in the Anchorage airport and boarded the venerable Denali Overland van for a three hour commute to Talkeetna. Of course we broke things up a bit with a last stop for provisions in Wasilla. Not much in the way of spectacular views today as the Alaska Range was cloaked in cloud, but there was plenty of pretty scenery a little lower down and closer in to the highway. We’ll dial down on lots of details tomorrow as we get oriented, prepped and packed for Denali.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The Curtes Crew is with you in spirit every step of the way. Go Hirschy and Magpie - We love you guys!
Posted by: Jay Curtes on 6/20/2018 at 5:32 pm
Wishes for a safe climb for your entire team. Special shout out to Margaret & Jon, keep your eye on the prize! Praying the weather clears for you!
Posted by: Donna Elmer Weber on 6/20/2018 at 4:34 pm
June 19, 2018
Monday, June 18, 2018 - 9:50 PM PT
Hi all -
We spent a very blustery and snowy day at 11,000 ft Camp. We had wind gusts in the upper forty’s and nearly two feet of snow on top of the more than three feet we walked through yesterday. The team spent most of the day hiding from Denali’s cold breath of winter. We’re hanging in there and crossing our fingers for a break to go to the airstrip.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones and Team
Praying for safe passage for the team ❤️
Elisa, Dayton and Elliotte.
We miss you Nicholas!
Posted by: Elisa on 6/19/2018 at 6:26 pm
Lei and the team,
Sorry that you did not go all the way due to mood swings of the Mother Nature. But don’t for one second think that you failed. You all spent months even years training and preparing for this adventure. You survived weeks of snowy, icy, windy wilderness, which only a few can endure. You went to “ the edge of the world” and back. You are all stronger both physically and mentally. You have achieved a lot. Be proud of yourself and safe trip home!
Posted by: Hao on 6/19/2018 at 6:15 pm
June 19, 2018
The Five Day Summit Climb June 15 - 19, 2018 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Chris Ebeling. Chris reported good clear weather with no winds. The team will spend return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise.
Congratulations to today’s climbers!
Way to go Kari!! We are so proud of you and happy for you. We love you!
Tim, Shannon, and Stone
Posted by: Tim Henry on 6/20/2018 at 1:45 pm
My guys rock! Congratulations Shane and McKay!
Love you two!!!
Posted by: Mama Janet on 6/19/2018 at 4:28 pm
Monday, June 18, 2018 - 8:18 PM PT
Just when we were beginning to think the worst of the storm had passed, Hurricane Horiskey came back with a vengeance. We spent the night trying to keep afloat by shoveling every hour on the hour. As the winds increased and the snow continued to fall we rallied the troops and began a train of shoveling in 30 minute shifts. This train of shoveling has lasted all day! And after a brief interlude for a warming Ramen dinner we are back at it. Although Hurricane Horiskey is a bit more intense than we would have preferred we are taking this opportunity to keep our shoveling arms strong and work on one of mountaineering’s most important skills, patience. As you may imagine our Super Crew is crushing it and taking the weather in stride. When else would they have a chance to catch up on Breaking Bad or finish the Lord of the Rings Audiobook?? We are crossing our fingers that the weather will mellow a bit come tomorrow but until then continue to shovel as if we were headed for China.
Pray for good weather!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Super Crew!
On The Map
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Hang in there Gloria and crew. thinking of you all today and hoping you get to move out tomorrow.
Posted by: Mary Ann on 6/20/2018 at 9:29 am
Gloria and crew
Stay warm and strong!
Ma and pa
Posted by: Mary Ann on 6/19/2018 at 9:08 pm
June 18, 2018
Monday, June 18, 2018 - 1:27 PM PT
Listening to the wind run down the West Buttress sounds like a never ending wave crashing against a rocky shore. The snow is drifting 3-4 feet in places thanks to the 30 mph wind gusts. This is an actual weather day, the previous four have just been a warm up. The forecast is for more of the same. We continue to hang out in our tents and later today there is going to be a food swap so the team can get some different snack food choices.
On The Map
Praying the weather eases up.. I can only try to imagine what its like… You guys are amazing! Hang in there! Sending special love to JT.
Posted by: Wendy Emmer on 6/20/2018 at 6:43 am
Doing our clear skies weather dance for y’all!
We are rooting for you and keeping tabs everyday!! A big thank you to Mike for the updates.
Posted by: Elisabeth Yeager on 6/20/2018 at 4:51 am
June 18, 2018
Monday, June 18, 2018 - 2:15 AM PT
To all of our fans out there, we know you’ve enjoyed our stories, raps and poems for our blog to fulfill our energy during our long stay at 14,000’ Camp on Denali. This evening however, was the beginning of our retreat down the mountain and eventually back to the airstrip as the weather allows. Today, we had a lull in the never ending storm and the team seized the opportunity to make the descent back to 11,000’ Camp. This “lull” certainly wasn’t an easy escape but the conditions were the best we’ve had in days and better than what’s forecast for the next week. We quickly broke down camp and were walking just before 8pm. Walking into the white and knee deep post holing kept the pace down but the team was managing it well. Squirrel Hill was wind scoured and Motorcycle Hill into 11,000’ Camp provided some more deep post holing. Thankfully, the wind was calm at camp and with some help from some other guides we know, that have also been stuck in this storm, we managed to set up tents quickly and crawled into our sleeping bags by midnight. Way to go team! The next few days still call for some snowy and windy weather so we might not move too quickly but we’ll take every window of opportunity!
Happy Father’s Day!
Sory about the bad weather gollub. Rained in CT for 2 days strait so I kno how u feel.
Posted by: Mikey b on 6/19/2018 at 9:14 am
Really sorry about those PB cups. They will taste even sweeter when you return…
Glad to hear you all are breathing thicker air and moving strong in the storm. Thanks for letting us stay part of this journey. You are all an inspiration and I am proud that my kids get to hear these stories of their adventurous uncle.
Thinking of you Dave and team on the decent.
Posted by: Beth on 6/19/2018 at 8:40 am