Mt. Everest Expedition: Dave Hahn Checks in From Base Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Hello this is Dave Hahn with RMI’s Everest Expeditions calling in.  I promise I wrote a nice dispatch but lost connectivity before sending it to you, so we’ll have to do a voice dispatch. It’s all good here. It’s snowing lightly, it’s been snowing since about mid-day but just lightly.  We are still holding on to the hope that the Sherpas and one or two of the guides might get up in the morning for a scouting trip through the Ice Fall.  Of course that is weather dependent as always.  Today the team went over their gear, trying to streamline their systems for climbing fixed ropes. They checked out their down suits trying to get a little bit more familiar with that gear.  Our Sherpa team did the same.  Fairly quiet day, nobody else is going through the Ice Fall either a few people nibble at the base of the route today just stretching their legs and working their technique.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI Climbers testing out their down suits while at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn The RMI Sherpa team in their down suits at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls in from Everest Base Camp.

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5

RMI Guide Alex Barber Checks in From Annapurna Base Camp

Posted by: Alex Barber | April 15, 2015
Categories: *Guide News

Tuesday, April 14, 2015 8:54 pm PT

I am still in Base Camp waiting out a period of unstable weather. About half a meter of snowfall so far at Annapurna Base Camp with more forecast over the next few days. During a break in the weather, a Base Camp wide snowball fight erupted for about 20 minutes, too much pent up energy around here!

RMI Guide Alex Barber

Panorama of Base Camp with Annapurna being the left most peak.  Photo: Alex Barber
1

Mt. Everest: Hahn & Team Wait Another Day Due to Snow

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 14, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Dave Hahn with the RMI Everest Expedition. We are without internet this evening, due to forces beyond our control. We are doing fine. It was another waiting day. There was still all of that snow on the ground from the bigger storm and the threat of more falling, but in the end we didn’t get that much more today. It was pretty cloudy. Our team went for a climb to the face of the the steep part in the icefall, so we went about an hour to an hour and a half breaking trail to the start of the technical sections in the icefall. We made a good morning of it, and taking it easy this afternoon mostly at camp as we wait and see.  Nobody wants to push up through the icefall right now with that possibility for more snow coming. We may have to do a similar program tomorrow- hiking, exercise, training, and then will hope to hit the icefall the following day. At least Sherpas and guides going up to preview it, but that that doesn’t seem worthwhile at the moment, but another day or two, we’ll see. Everybody is doing well. We’ll let you know what happens. Thanks.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Khumbu Icefall seen with the new snow from yesterday's storm. Photo: Dave Hahn Dave Hahn leading the RMI Everest team in a training session into the lower section of the Icefall. Photo: JJ Justman Everest BC - Mark Tucker choosing to go with his air game. Photo: Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Everest Base Camp.

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2

RMI Guide Alex Barber With an Update from Annapurna

Posted by: Alex Barber | April 14, 2015
Categories: *Guide News

Today I carried more gear and food to Annapurna Camp 1 as more bad weather approached. While climbing today I noticed icefall avalanche activity was quite frequent. So far Annapurna has been relatively quiet, hopefully this isn’t a sign of permanent change. As I arrived at Camp 1 around noon it was snowing steadily with low visibility. My plan had been to go all the way up to Camp 2, but the weather was so uncertain at Camp 1 that I decided to drop the equipment at Camp 1 and head back down. Currently I’m at Base Camp sitting out this spell of bad weather.

Tentbound… again

I had considered going directly to Camp 2 today to attempt a possible summit push on the 15th. But the 15th (possibly a decent day at 8,000 meters) is sandwiched between loading events (significant snowfall). The unstable weather looks to persist until the 18th.

General Mtn news: Camp 3 was hit by an avalanche a few days ago, two teams had cached oxygen bottles and other items there a while back. All these items were swept away. The nine-day weather forecast does not look promising. Heavy snowfalls, then some clearing but with high winds. I’m hoping the forecast will change to something more promising in the next few days.

RMI Guide Alex Barber

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2

Mt. Everest: Hahn & Team Have a Snow Day

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 13, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

The snow began falling about the time we got into our sleeping bags last night.  It didn’t quit.  When we poked heads out for a look-see around 3:30 AM, it was still piling up pretty good, and so there wasn’t any consideration given for going ahead with the icefall plan for the day.  Back to bed and wait and see, was the plan.  It had snowed about a foot by breakfast.  The gang assembled and we spent the day biding our time.  We didn’t have great conditions for walking with powder snow over uneven rock and ice.  The clouds and flurries hung in all day.  We could hear and occasionally see puja ceremonies going on at the camps around us.  All-in-all it was a quiet day of waiting.  We’ll see what tomorrow brings. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Overnight snow covers Everest Base Camp. Photo: JJ Justman Hanging out in the EBC cook tent on a snowy day. Photo: JJ Justman The RMI Everest team gather for a meal in the cook tent. Photo: JJ Justman

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3

Mt. Everest: Team Takes a Day Off

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 12, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

It was shower day for the climbing team.  This was our designated “day off” so that all could get a good night’s sleep without any nervousness about what might be demanded of another training/climbing day.  It seemed to do the trick… we all showed up late for the pre-breakfast coffee and tea session.  There was a pretty good procession of old friends and fellow guides coming to say hello and exchange radio frequencies today.  Climbing teams are now pouring in, the Puja flags are going up everywhere and brightly colored tents are blossoming in every direction.

We’ll make our first push through the icefall tomorrow… Sherpas and guides, at least.  Our goal will be to check out the route and to establish Camp 1 at close to 20,000 ft.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Common Tent at Base Camp. RMI Photo Collection Fun and Games at Base Camp on a Rest Day. RMI Photo Collection

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5

Mt. Everest: Team Explores Pumori Base Camp and Kalapathar

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 11, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 18,300'

It was time for a big day of hiking.  We’ve been ramping up the activity level, day by day as acclimatization has kicked in.  The goal today was to hike back down valley to get busy on Kalapathar, an 18,300 ft “summit” with big views of Everest and pretty much everything else in our valley.  In classic terms, it isn’t really a summit, just a convenient bump on a ridge which then gets quite technical on its way to the summit of Pumori, a vertical mile overhead.  But Kalapathar is accessible and popular.  And for us, it would involve some good distance and vertical gain and loss… Otherwise known as training.  We went off the main trail soon after leaving Basecamp to avoid the heavy traffic (trekkers, yaks, climbers, porters) and snuck along a quiet and slightly more rugged back path which goes through the abandoned basecamp for Pumori.  We clomped through a few snowfields before rejoining the popular route on Kalapathar that comes up from Gorak Shep.  And then it was just an easy plod upward to the mass of prayer flags at the top.  It is a real treat to be up top without clouds obscuring the surrounding great peaks and today we took advantage of the opportunity, snapping a few hundred digital images in every direction.  Eventually, the wind and cold caused us to beat a hasty retreat back down to Gorak Shep and then we started up the normal track to basecamp.  As expected, the trail was quite busy, but we were still able to make good time… experiencing the cheap thrill of walking at normal (acclimatized) speed past a hundred panting and gasping (unacclimatized) trekkers.
It was fine to relax away what remained of the afternoon in camp after five and a half good hours of walking and scrambling.

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Views along the trail to Kalapathar- hike from Everest BC.  Photo: JJ Justman Dave Hahn leading the way to Kalapathar. Photo: JJ Justman The 2015 RMI Everest team at Kalapathar. Photo: JJ Justman

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Grom & Team Finish Their Safe Journey

Posted by: Casey Grom | April 10, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek

We are back safe and sound in Kathmandu.

Everyone is enjoying the comforts here at the Yak & Yeti Hotel, a long hot shower, good food, and the warm temperatures.

It’s been one amazing adventure with a great team and it will be sad to say goodbye, but we are all looking forward to getting back home to our loved ones.

Thanks for following.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

Grom & Team celebrate at Baskin Robbins in Kathmandu, Nepal. Photo: Casey Grom

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Mt. Everest: Hahn & Team Train and Begin the Mark Tucker Golf Invitational

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 10, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

One of the finer days we’ve seen on the trip, weatherwise.  Clear skies and calm as anything in the morning, which made us forget the cold.  We were out in the glacier again, at our jungle gym of ladders and fixed lines and ice walls.  The team practiced safety clips and rappel procedures and did lap after lap, without packs, with packs, with ice axes, without them… All under the watchful eyes of myself, JJ Justman, and Chhering Dorgee Sherpa.
At this point, still, the only climbers to have been through the icefall have been the icefall doctors responsible for building the route.  That will change within a few days… Of course we are all quite curious as to what surprises the “new” route through the glacier holds.
In the afternoon on this fine day, our Basecamp Manager, Mark Tucker, took a foursome out for the first day of a planned four-day golf tournament in the mellow section of glacier close to camp.  Tuck showed his party around the Khumbu Country Club, scoring a hole-in-one in the process (his partners now each owe him 100 rupees).  Newcomer Robbie came away with the low score for the round however, with a nine under par performance.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The 2015 Everest Icefall Doctors- Stout ladder load. Photo: Dave Hahn RMI Guide and Everest BC Manager, Mark Tucker, crushing the ball. Photo: JJ Justman An RMI team playing golf at Everest BC. Photo: Mark Tucker

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5

RMI Guide Alex Barber Feeling Better After Bout with Illness

Posted by: Alex Barber | April 10, 2015
Categories: *Guide News
Elevation: 13,550'

It’s been a few days since I’ve posted an update. Mostly - ok entirely - because I’ve been ill. The most likely culprit, in my mind, for this bout of illness was the suspiciously under cooked mutton I had a few nights ago. Today, though, I’m feeling better and my focus is returning to Annapurna.

Mountain news: While I’ve been tent-ridden not too much has happened. Camp 1 was hit by a massive wind gust produced by a large avalanche originating from high up the mountain near Camp 3. It ripped a few tents from their guy lines and the group that was there when it happened lost some gear. All my on-mountain gear is cached at C2, though, so this hasn’t affected me. Progress has been made toward Camp 3 by one team, but nobody has yet reached it. Deep snow on the approach to the crosshairs couloir is the main issue. The team using bottled oxygen are planning their first summit attempt for the 15th or 16th.

My plan is to climb directly to Camp 2 on the 12th and Camp 3 on the 13th. The section between Camp 2 and 3 is the most technically difficult and dangerous area. But time spent above 20,000’ is a most important aspect of acclimatization for a no O’s attempt. Until then I’m working on kicking this illness and recuperating my strength for this next push up the mountain.

RMI Guide Alex Barber

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Previous Page More Entries

Expedition Stats

Kilimanjaro Climb & Safari
1/10 - 1/24/2015
Kilimanjaro - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/4 - 1/27/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
1/6 - 1/19/2015
Cayambe - 17,000' / Antisana - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Ecuador's Volcanoes
1/20 - 1/30/2015
Cayambe - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/11 - 2/3/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Kilimanjaro Climb & Safari
1/24 - 2/7/2015
Kilimanjaro - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/18 - 2/10/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
2/3 - 2/16/2015
Cayambe - 16,500' / Antisana - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/26 - 2/18/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
2/14 - 2/22/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/8 - 3/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Mexico's Volcanoes
3/7 - 3/15/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - 15,300' / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/22 - 3/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - 10,080'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'

Recent Images

  • Dave Hahn leads the Everest team on an acclimatization hike to Kala Patar. | JJ Justman
  • Ascending thru the ladders of the Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Sherpa teams and guide attempt to navigate through the Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Sherpa and guides going through the Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Horseshoes at RMI Everest Base Camp. Photo: JJ Justman
  • 2015 Sherpa World Championship Horseshoes. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Significant avalanche shown in center bottom of Annapurna photo. Photo: Alex Barber
  • Annapurna route past Camp 2. Photo: Alex Barber
  • RMI Guide Dave Hahn joins the Sherpa in some Icefall exploration. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The Winter Seminar team enjoys the sunrise on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Sunrise on Mt. Rainier with Little Tahoma. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The Winter Seminar Team taking a rest break on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The view of Mt. Rainier after the storm earlier this week. Photo: Brent Okita
  • RMI Climbers testing out their down suits while at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The RMI Sherpa team in their down suits at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Panorama of Base Camp with Annapurna being the left most peak.  Photo: Alex Barber
  • Khumbu Icefall seen with the new snow from yesterday's storm. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Dave Hahn leading the RMI Everest team in a training session into the lower section of the Icefall. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Everest BC - Mark Tucker choosing to go with his air game. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Overnight snow covers Everest Base Camp. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Hanging out in the EBC cook tent on a snowy day. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The RMI Everest team gather for a meal in the cook tent. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Common Tent at Base Camp. RMI Photo Collection
  • Fun and Games at Base Camp on a Rest Day. RMI Photo Collection
  • Views along the trail to Kalapathar- hike from Everest BC.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • Dave Hahn leading the way to Kalapathar. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The 2015 RMI Everest team at Kalapathar. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Grom & Team celebrate at Baskin Robbins in Kathmandu, Nepal. Photo: Casey Grom
  • The 2015 Everest Icefall Doctors- Stout ladder load. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • RMI Guide and Everest BC Manager, Mark Tucker, crushing the ball. Photo: JJ Justman
  • An RMI team playing golf at Everest BC. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • The Everest team training in the lower Khumbu. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The Everest team practices with crampons on ladders. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The Everest team training on fixed ropes in the lower Khumbu. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The Everest team's training day on fixed rope. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Climbers walking through the streets of Lukla.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The views while hiking to Pumori Camp One.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Enjoying the views from Pumori Camp One.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Looking over Namche Bazaar.  Photo: RMI Collection