RMI Expeditions Blog
Sunday, January 16, 2022
After a quick breakfast in the Hotel Geneve, we said goodbye to the bustling streets of La Zona Rosa at 07:40 to get some much needed time to acclimatize in preparation for the objectives that lie ahead. We were greeted with sunny skies and mild morning weather on our hike of La Malinche which tops out at 14,640. The trail was in good shape and feral dogs were good company at times. After moving into our Cabana and just missing the evening thunder and rain, we are on our way to enjoy an nice family-style meal of carne asada, complimented with hot sizzling veggies and queso to end a great first day.
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 18,997'
Monday, January 17, 2022 - 6:21 am PT
The last few members of the team are arriving back at the refugio after a successful summit of Cayambe! It was a clear morning, but quite windy above 17,000’. We will descend to Guachala today for some much needed rest before moving south towards Cotopaxi tomorrow.
Sunday, January 16, 2022 - 9:18 pm PT
On Sunday, we had an excellent day reviewing basic mountaineering skills on the glacier plus starting some advanced skills in the hut. Currently we are 20 minutes into the climb and it is a clear, calm night. Let’s hope it stays that way!
Posted by: Walter Hailes, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Sunday, January 16, 2022 4:01 PM PST
After a rough first night at base camp because of the big jump in altitude, we started the day a little slow. We went for a nice casual walk to check out the local penitentes and breathe off the slight headaches that lingered from the night before. It was beautiful walking into the 15’ tall glacier spires. After lunch we got to work sprucing up our camp. The whole team worked really hard shoveling, hoeing, and raking the rock filled dirt into plush flat platforms for our tents. We will sleep better tonight partly because the tents will be more comfy and partly because making the tents more comfy was exhausting. Another beautiful day in the mountains with a great team!
RMI Guide Walt Hailes & Team
Sunday, January 16, 2021 - 11:18 AM PST
The team moved up to Camp 1 at Plaza Canada today, situated at 16,500 feet. Our packs were noticeably lighter after carrying most of our gear up to camp a few days ago. We quickly got settled in and shored our tents against the upcoming wind. Everyone is happy to be above basecamp and starting our push towards the summit.
RMI Guide Nick Scott & Team
Be safe! It’s so much fun to see your progress!
Posted by: Kendall Snow on 1/17/2022 at 5:53 pm
Hope those high winds settle for you! Stay safe!
Posted by: Jill Snow on 1/17/2022 at 2:39 pm
Posted by: Walter Hailes, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 14,500'
Hola Amigos! It’s finally happened, we have arrived on the mountain! After some last minute packing and eating a lot of empanadas while we waited, we got a weather window and flew into Plaza de Mulas at 14,000 feet. It was one of the most scenic and incredible helicopter flights I’ve ever been on. We settled nicely into our Basecamp, where we will spend the next several days acclimatizing. We’re happy to be here and are going to bed with full bellies thanks to the amazing food and hospitality of the staff at camp.
RMI Guides Walt Hailes & Jack Delaney
Walt,
Good to seeing you on the Blog. Looking forward to climbing with you again someday.
Stay safe.
Pat and Lynn Morrison
Posted by: Pat Morrison on 1/16/2022 at 9:07 am
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 15,300'
Following a rainy day on Fuya Fuya yesterday, we were able to dry out and take hot showers at La Casa Sol. We had the place to ourselves and enjoyed a quiet stay. Today we spent a couple hours at the Otavalo Market, the largest outdoor craft market in South America. It was a fun and slow way to start our day which included a bus ride and long 4x4 ride to the Cayambe climber’s hut. The team is settled in for the night and we will train on the glacier tomorrow, reviewing basic climbing skills and learning how to build snow anchors. Thanks for staying tuned and cross your fingers for good weather the next two days!
Best wishes for Sunshine!!! :)
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/16/2022 at 2:59 am
After an impressive showing on our Carry Day we decided to let the group rest their weary muscles at before we begin our progression up the mountain. Lots of eating and sleeping are being done today at Basecamp before the meal quality decreases and the altitude does it’s best to rob you of valuable shut eye. I can definitely feel the excitement in the group as all of us are eager to move higher and test our mettle against the mountain. Send good vibes out to the weather gods for us. We are hoping for sunny skies and light winds from here on out. Two things Aconcagua does not provide often.
Posted by: Walter Hailes, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Aconcagua 2022! Yes, it’s happening. Covid delayed this trip by a full year but we are all in Argentina, healthy, happy and ready to climb.
I must thank the hard work of Jeff, Autumn, Jack and Luke for working out all the logistics of my covid related delays and making sure that this trip didn’t stop before it ever got started. The whole team is now together in the town of Uspallata, spending tonight in a beautiful hotel a few miles outside Aconcagua National Park. If the weather report holds, we will fly to Base Camp mid-day tomorrow. But until then, we are enjoying more of the friendly people, tasty food and great wine of Argentina.
Our 3 Guardsman, Alden, Brett and Chip are raising money during our climb. We welcome everyone following along with our adventure and thanks for your support and generosity.
RMI Guides Walter Hailes & Jack Delaney
Wish I could be there with you guys.
Enjoy the ride. Will be thinking on you these days.
Keep safe. I want to celebrate your climbing soon with you.
Best
Roman
Posted by: Roman Martin on 1/15/2022 at 7:52 am
I miss you all and and am with you in spirit! ¡Abrazos fuertes!
Posted by: Jeff Gordman on 1/15/2022 at 7:34 am
Done and dusted! The team just crushed what is objectively the most difficult day of the trip outside of summit day. The packs are the heaviest, the altitude change is the hardest, and nerves and anxiety are usually pretty high. Everyone is always wondering how they will perform. Well, every member of this crew absolutely styled the carry! I couldn’t be prouder of all of them and all of you friends and family at home should be equally as proud. Now they have the rest of the afternoon to chill and enjoy a huge BBQ lunch prepared by our killer basecamp crew. Woohoo! Feels good to have the first one done. We will be taking another rest day tomorrow to help increase our chances of better acclimating before making the move to Camp one. High fives all around!
Ode to the Rest Step
My dearest rest step, you are the absolute best
With every foot placement you give us a micro rest
These tests that make climbing the alpine possible
Even with the heaviest pack you make us feel invincible!
And when you remember to pressure breath we can climb with no reprieve.
Oh rest step, with you we will never stop,
And we will always make the mountain top!
Signed
-unknown 42yr old Portland Poet
Go TEAM GO!
Especially Jake!
Posted by: Team Pizza on 1/15/2022 at 9:47 pm
Congratulations everyone! The rest is well deserved!
Posted by: Coeli Scott on 1/15/2022 at 6:54 am
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 15,696'
In an effort to maximize the suffering and thus achieve the greatest level of mental training, we hiked Rucu Pichincha during the rainiest, snowiest portion of the day. Alright, that was not the intention but mission accomplished! Here on the equator, weather forecasts can only tell you so much. If you ask a local about it, they typically look at the sky and tell you what is currently happening. It was basically cloudy, raining or snowing all day but we did get some glimpses of Quito beneath the clouds. On the way back down the trail we also dried off a bit in the warmth of the afternoon so everyone was in good spirits back on the bus. Tonight we are headed to a local favorite restaurant to fuel up on baba ganoush before heading north towards Cayambe.
You all earned a great meal climbing in the snow and rain! Best of Luck Dustin and Kevin and Team!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/14/2022 at 4:27 am
The pictures are amazing. What an incredible experience. Stay safe!
Posted by: Tracie Bush on 1/17/2022 at 12:41 pm
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