RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team - Weather Day at 14K Camp

May 28, 2016

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Jess Matthews

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 28, 2016 - 12:06 am PT 'The Great One' once again showed her might. Another night of hammering winds kept us from deep sleep. Despite unrelenting gales, Denali Storm Evans finally gifted us with sunny skies this morning. Today was a day to lick our wounds, repair and fortify camp, and dry our clothes; wet from the rigors of battling the passing storm. It was a day to be grateful for the sun. Cinnamon Toast Crunch provided a dose of childhood nostalgia, followed up by Pete's world famous power dinner; quinoa, lentils, squash, beans, and mustard. Our bodies and our minds still await our chance to experience the upper slopes of this great mountain. With mother nature's cooperation, we're hopeful this shall soon come to fruition. Until then, Namaste. RMI Guides Robby, Pete, Jess, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Ditto what Leanne said ... we are all anxiously awaiting what’s next for you all and the news can’t come soon enough. Nine days at Camp 3. Is that a record? I know you are doing your best to keep your spirits up together and give it all you’ve got. Justin, can I promise you a foot rub for all your efforts? Hopefully that gives you just a little more stamina ...

Posted by: Patrice La Vigne on 5/28/2016 at 2:24 pm

Oh, the simple pleasures of life - sunshine, dry clothes, deep sleep. I hope all these things stay with you until you reach your goal and return home safely. Your friends in the lower half have been praying nonstop for your safety and health.

These blog posts are like letters from heaven. Thanks for keeping us informed. It’s our lifeline.

Posted by: leanne on 5/28/2016 at 10:37 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Cache Complete at 10,000’

May 27, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

May 27, 2016 - 6:06 pm PT We woke up this morning to blustery but clear skies. With ridge top winds ripping all around us we decided to dig in before getting underway. The team learned about wall building and tidying up camp before separating all of their gear to be carried. Then we were off! Bright skies and a stiff breeze gave us great conditions to schlep our loads up toward Kahiltna Pass. The great visibility highlighted the big three: Hunter, Foraker and Denali standing tall against the wind. After a quick transition we had a load of gear stashed in the ground and were returning back to camp to hide away for the rest of the day. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Let’s Breck !

Posted by: Dad on 5/29/2016 at 11:10 am

Hi Tyler -
Good luck with this years team! I still have great memories of our 2011 and 2012 expeditions.
-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/29/2016 at 10:45 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team - Apocalyptic at 14K

May 27, 2016

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Jess Matthews

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 26, 2016 - 11:29 pm PT Tonight's dispatch will be short courtesy of Storm Evans. Everyone is doing well but very occupied with shoveling out our tents every 45 minutes as the 60mph wind that is ripping through camp fills everything back in with spindrift. Not the most pleasant day, and we certainly didn't even entertain the thought of going anywhere. Hopefully the winds give us a reprieve and let us get some sleep tonight. We'll touch base tomorrow. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hello Hitesh, best wishes from everybody at Home. hopefully, weather clears up tomorrow! take care.

Posted by: Paresh on 5/27/2016 at 9:16 pm

Hitesh. All is taken care of. Wishing you good weather!!!

Posted by: Rod Dubois on 5/27/2016 at 3:59 pm

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team on a Rest Day of Sorts

May 27, 2016

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

May 26, 2016 - 10:13 pm PT Eggs,bacon, hash browns and of course the hot drink this team raves about, hot cider, started our day on the right foot. Three hours after breakfast we were back in camp with our cache from 10,000'. Some review of ice axe arrest and cramponing after lunch has prepared us for tomorrow's big climb to bring a cache up to 13,500'. This is where the climbing begins, and we're really looking forward to it. The afternoon was spent relaxing in the tents, a much needed and appreciated respite from the hard work everyone has been doing to this point. Spirits are high as we get off the Kahiltna Glacier and start getting close to camp at 14,200'. Let's hope it's not too windy for us on our climb around Windy Corner tomorrow. RMI Guides Brent, Christina, Chris and the team

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team on the Glacier and on the Move

May 27, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

May 26, 2016 - 10:04 p.m. PDT After lots of anticipation we are here on the mountain!! This morning we had our final meal at the roadhouse, followed by good weather news from the pilots at the K2 hangar. The team changed from our street clothes to our action suits and before we knew it we were in the air flying to the glacier. We landed and assembled our mountain of gear in to individual loads. With a nice cloud cover and cool temps we made the decision to get the train moving! Travel was pleasant, though a bit hot when the sun started to peek through near our first camp. We have a strong team and everyone did a fabulous job. We made a tasty meal and are bedding down after a very productive day. Will keep you updated! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Godspeed to the top!

Many prayers going up from Virginia for the team.

Michael we cannot wait to hear about the Denali adventure.

Mom and I think about you everyday.

It looks amazing form the pictures and we know you are loving it.

Love,
Mom and Dad

Posted by: Carter And Kay Adams on 5/28/2016 at 3:29 pm

Andy,

Hope you are all having a great and Safe time, look for your return tonight 5/28/16 and hearing all about it.

Mom and Dad

Posted by: Bert on 5/28/2016 at 10:19 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Compose Rest Day Poetry

May 26, 2016

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Jess Matthews

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 25, 2016 - 11:47 p.m. PDT The morning sun never showed at all, rather than views of "The Great One," all we saw was the inside of a ping pong ball. Blowing snow and midday brunch, spinach and egg burritos took us well past lunch. Life at 14 is cut and dry, we've prepped, we've cached, and we're ready to fly. Our eyes are fixed on the buttress above, we were surprised this evening by a tent dwelling dove. Coming high pressure may not be our best friend, but at least we'll have some views again. Toasted pop tarts keep our spirits light, we hope the summit is soon in our sights. ~~A poetic collaboration of RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, and Robby Young

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

If Smores pop tarts are what you guys had,
Life at the top,
Ain’t half bad.

Wishing you all a continued safe (and amazing) journey! (*Hi, H!!*)

Posted by: Yogita on 5/26/2016 at 12:58 pm

Lisa: The “porch crowd” eagerly awaiting your dash to the top .. tried to encourage George and Rob to start training .. not much success, so far

Posted by: Peter on 5/26/2016 at 11:47 am

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Cruise into Camp at 11,200’

May 26, 2016

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

May 25, 2016 - 11:14 p.m. PDT The walk up to camp at 11,200' was our easiest of the trip. Less than 3 hours of climbing with reasonable loads today was a very nice break for the team. Everyone was all smiles coming into camp just after noon. We even moved into a recently abandoned camp so we didn't have to work on building camp. Our cache is a mere 30 minute walk from here, so picking it up on our back carry tomorrow will be even easier. Which is perfect after all the hard work everyone has been doing. And of course, the Posh Tent remains the center of activity and social life for us here on the mountain. That's all for now from camp at 11,200.' RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale, and Chris Ebeling and the team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Team, Beautiful picture! Looks Incredible. I wish you all the best! Climb Strong Dawn!!!!

Posted by: Dave on 5/27/2016 at 3:24 am

Paul, Looks amazing! Wish I was there! Be safe and have an incredible journey. Love living vicariously through you!
Gin Millsap

Posted by: Virginia on 5/26/2016 at 8:54 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Sort Gear in Talkeetna

May 26, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

May 25, 2016 - 8:59 p.m. PDT Hello from Talkeetna! Today was spent sorting through our gear in the K2 Aviation airplane hangar. We're all getting to know each other and we're beginning to feel like a team. The luggage is lined up and we're hoping for nice weather to fly into base camp in the morning. In the meantime, we'll fill our stomachs and stay hydrated for the days ahead. RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team

Mt. Rainier: Muir Seminar Summits!

May 26, 2016

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Ben Liken

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Ben Liken led the Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reached the crater shortly before 8:00 a.m. Elias reported beautiful weather, a cloud deck at 7,500', chilly temperatures, and a light breeze. The team will spend a little time on the summit before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. The Seminar will spend tonight at Camp Muir and descend back to Ashford tomorrow. Congratulations to this week's seminar team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

To the Zmolek men:

Have a safe and fun climb. Love to you both. Judy, Natasha and Desmond

Posted by: Judy Zmolek on 5/27/2016 at 3:49 pm

عيد ميلاد سعي Sandra

Posted by: Harab Mukabik on 5/27/2016 at 8:57 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Carry to 16,000’

May 25, 2016

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Jess Matthews

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

May 25, 2016 - 1:04 am PT For the first time in several days, the skies were clear above and below us this morning. With those clear skies came COLD temps. We let the sun warm the tents and us, and then set our sights on the fixed lines for a light carry of personal gear. The sun kept it warm while we moved, but the temps stayed cold and we kept the breaks short as they quickly turned chilly. Our group moved really well, and with no other traffic around, we were quickly at the top of the lines, sitting on the West Buttress proper. Our later departure, and light but cold winds convinced us to cache our loads there, and head back down. As has been the recent pattern, as we descended the winds above built, and soon evidence of strong winds was showing on the summit, and moving down to the Buttress as well. We were happy to be back in camp relaxing. The next weather system is forecasted to come in tonight and tomorrow, so we'll enjoy the comfort of our tents. At this point, we are watching for our window and are perfectly set up to go for the summit when the opportunity presents. That might mean a touch more waiting, but we are ok with that. Best from 14, RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Jess, and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Well team u “got this” the summit is so close, man that slope looks like 38-40 degrees angle glad to hear the weather is on ur side rest up for the finally “Ooh Rah” say hello to our friend L R climb on and be safe. Best XO The Bolomey’s

Posted by: Joe&Patty; on 5/26/2016 at 3:10 am

Impressive feat to summit West Buttress during a break in the weather. Patrice tells me that Thursday through Sunday will bring favorable weather; so, maybe you’ll make good progress toward your goal of summiting. I am hoping and praying that you are successful because it’s occurred to me that another climb up Denali might be in your future if you don’t succeed this time. I couldn’t take the anxiety again.

Upwards and onwards!

Posted by: leanne on 5/25/2016 at 1:09 pm

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RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team - Weather Day at 14K Camp

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Cache Complete at 10,000’

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team - Apocalyptic at 14K

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team on a Rest Day of Sorts

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team on the Glacier and on the Move

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Compose Rest Day Poetry

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Cruise into Camp at 11,200’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Sort Gear in Talkeetna

Mt. Rainier: Muir Seminar Summits!

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Carry to 16,000’

On The Map

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