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RMI Expeditions Blog


Ecuador Volcanoes: Casey Grom Calls In from Chimborazo High Camp

Hey everybody, this is Casey Grom checking in from the Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition. We are up here at just over 17,000 feet at our high camp on Chimborazo. We had a pretty nice day to hike up here. Was a little bit of clouds, which was nice to have it cool for our hike. The team had a great time and we hired a couple of porters to help expedite our arrival to camp, which was great. We just wrapped up a nice dinner of hot soup and watched the sun go down up here, which was incredibly beautiful. We're crawling into our tents and do our best for a little bit of sleep until we get up. Similar to our game plan as we had on Cayambe. We are going to try to get up at 11 and try to start climbing around midnight. So that will be our game plan for us. We will do our best tomorrow to give a call once we are back down off the mountain. I'm sure it's going to be a long, busy, hard day for everybody. We'll update you guys tomorrow once we are off the mountain. Thanks. RMI Guide Casey Grom


RMI Guide Casey Grom calls in from Chimborazo High Camp.

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

glad to hear you all made it to High Camp and enjoyed the views.  By now you should close to back from the summit.

Can’t wait to hear the good news and of course, am sorry I could not be there with you.

Posted by: danny on 12/17/2015 at 7:43 am


Aconcagua: Justman & Team Rest at Camp 1

Hello from 16,400 feet on blustery Aconcagua. After a successful carry to Camp 2 yesterday we all took a well deserved rest day today. We slept in, which proved difficult to do because of the winds trying to huff and puff and blow down our houses. Then after hot drinks we took a small walk to a beautiful spot overlooking the valley. There we got the blood flowing by doing some high altitude yoga. Now we're back to the tents for an afternoon nap to prepare for a big move day tomorrow. Everyone says hi and is doing well. RMI Guides Christina von Mertens and JJ Justman

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yoga! Awesome :-) keep up the good work team, special hugs to Juan.

Juan, we miss you very much and as always, we are so proud of you! Enjoy this wonderful adventure!

Love,
Lilly & the Suris clan

Posted by: Lilly Suris on 12/16/2015 at 8:50 pm

I totally support the yoga practice on the mountain!!! Hopefully you’re all giving some love and gratitude to the bodies that got you 16,400 ft up a mountain! Take care and rest well!
Namaste :)

Posted by: Karina on 12/16/2015 at 4:23 pm


Ecuador Volcanoes: Grom & Team Prepare for Next Objective - Chimborazo

Hello Everyone, All is well here in Ecuador especially after a wonderful night of rest. The team did a fantastic job on Cayambe yesterday and really deserved it. We spent last night in the oldest Hacienda in Ecuador called Guachala, which dates back to the 16th century, and isn't too far from the mountain. After a relaxing morning at the Hacienda we loaded up our gear and headed south for five hours to reach our next climbing objective, Chimborazo. We are spending the night in another newer hacienda, not far from Chimborazo, built about 20 years ago by a German mountain guide that's full of climbing memorabilia. Our plan is to have another good night's rest here, then hike up to a high camp tomorrow afternoon to help shorten our climb. If all goes according to plan we'll be settled in camp by 5pm and hopefully get a little more rest before starting our climb around 11-12pm. Everyone enjoyed the drive and the beautiful views we had today. We are all excited for tomorrow. RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hi guys

Made it back stateside and have slept most of the day.

Also had issues w/connection or would have posted sooner

Great news u r going for the summit

I know u will all do great and am sorry can’t join u

I am with you in spirit

Kick some Chimborazo butt!!

Posted by: Danny on 12/16/2015 at 4:05 pm


Aconcagua: Justman & Team Carry to Camp 2

Team Aconcagua is getting down to business! This morning we awoke to windy but clear skies. After we loaded up on coffee and waffles we threw the backpacks on and climbed uphill. The team did a fantastic job reaching Camp 2 at 18,000 feet. We emptied our packs into a duffle bag and zipped it shut. Our second cache of gear is done and the team is now even more acclimatized. We are now back at Camp 1 and we just finished a round of hot soup. The guides are busy melting snow for water. Needless to say, the team is tired. Tonight is pizza night so I need to start making the dough. RMI Guides JJ Justman and Christina von Mertens

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Christina wish I would be there with you on your climbing squad!  Have a great time!

Posted by: Meredith on 12/15/2015 at 9:27 pm

Good job and good luck to the whole team!  Way to go, John McFarlane!  Keeping the drinks in your cup?

Posted by: Chris Colleran on 12/15/2015 at 7:20 pm


Sleep Recovery for Athletes

In a busy world of managing work schedules, family, and training, sleep is often the first thing to suffer. As we pack more and more into our day, we try to get away with less and less sleep. While it’s difficult to manage schedules and sometimes a last minute crunch demands heading to bed late for a few nights, athletic gains from your training are a sum of your training load and your recovery from that load. This means that simply putting in the training hours and effort are not enough; you need to give your body the time and ability to recover from those efforts as well. Additionally, studies of sleep and performance have shown a significant cognitive effect from continual sleep “debt” or sleep restriction. This all leads to the conclusion that you need to hold your sleep time just as sacrosanct in your schedule as you do your training time. If you can stick to this, you will find yourself much more productive with your waking hours as well! To make sure that you are giving your body the recovery it needs from your training load, studies suggest you follow several principles:

Set a consistent sleep schedule: To get quality sleep and maximize your recovery, it’s important to stick to a consistent schedule. Try to head to bed at each night and wake up at the same time. Your body develops a rhythm to sleep, and when your schedule is altered it can make it more difficult to fall asleep, or the sleep you get to be more fitful. Similarly, try to match your sleep schedule to your circadian rhythm. If you are a night owl, embrace it. Heading to bed at 1 am, and trying to wake at 5 am for a pre-work workout is a recipe for sleep deprivation. Recognize your circadian tendencies and try to design your schedule around them to accommodate.

Create a constructive sleep environment: Light pollution and excess noise can prevent you from entering the deepest stages of sleep, in which the majority of recovery from your training load occurs. Consider using fans or white noise machines to drown out excess noise, and consider blackout curtains to create an environment for truly restorative sleep.

Disengage from your screens half an hour before bed: Try to put your screens down at least a half hour before you head to bed. That includes your phone, Ipads, kindles, and televisions. All of the electronics in our lives create stimulation that can make it difficult to fall asleep, keeping us up longer and upsetting our rhythm.

Get 8 hours of sleep: Studies show that while many of us may think that we can operate on less, 8 hours of sleep is the magic number to maximize recovery in athletes. This number creeps up a few hours for teenagers and younger children. While a single night of less sleep will probably not affect your training appreciably, consistently shorting yourself on sleep will reduce your recovery, and reduce the efficacy of your training.

Try a nap! In studies of elite athletes’ recovery, a half hour nap between 2 and 4 pm was shown to dramatically improve recovery. Furthermore, a cup of coffee consumed before that nap helped athletes to wake from it alert and ready to go. While it may not be practical for everyone’s schedule, see if you can sneak in a quick catnap; it may be the performance boost you’ve been looking for!

The Canadian Sport for Life organization has published a detailed explanation of sleep studies as they pertain to long-term athlete development. Find it here: http://canadiansportforlife.ca/sites/default/files/resources/Sleep_Recovery_Jan2013_EN_web.pdf

_____

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

Leave a Comment For the Team

Ecuador Volcanoes: Grom & Team Summit Cayambe!

100% on top!!! The Ecuador team reached the Cayambe summit in stormy weather. Although the weather was not stellar, they were all happy to have made it. RMI Guide Casey Grom sent this summit photo and will check in once the team is safely off the mountain.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

That’s awesome, congratulations to the team!

Posted by: John Arnold on 12/15/2015 at 7:30 am

Well Done!*

Posted by: Ron Birch on 12/15/2015 at 12:30 am


Aconcagua:  Justman & Team Move to Camp 1

Hey everyone. This is JJ and Christina with team one on Aconcagua. We are up at Camp One. We settled into camp at 16,400 feet. It was a windy day. We're putting on the wind burn cream as we speak. The team did a phenomenal job. It was a tough day to get up here, probably had about 30 mile-per-hour winds, but we did a great job getting tents up. Right now we have the stoves going. We're melting snow because there's no running water here, which there usually is. So we are melting snow for water and getting some hot drinks going and recovery at 16,400 feet. Everyone says hi to family and friends. We're doing great, but we're going to go for now and get busy on hots and dinner. Thanks for following along. Stay tuned. Tomorrow if the weather is decent, we are hoping to do a carry to 18,000 feet, Camp Two. Take care. Ciao from Aconcagua. RMI Guide JJ Justman


RMI Guide JJ Justman calls from Camp 1 Aconcagua.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yeah! Wishing you all continued success. This is a wonderful way to end 2015 and be ready for new challenges in 2016. A special good wish and high-five to our nephew Chris. We are sooo proud of you! Prayers for you and the team…and a bit of the Christmas Cheer to warm you up.  Say “Hi” to Santa! Love, Aunt Cindi and Uncle Roy

Posted by: Cindi Burrell on 12/15/2015 at 5:30 am

Great job on the move, in those conditions. The views only get better from here on. This is JJ’s mountain, and sounds as if you have a very strong team. Special shout out to Chris and John, and wishing only the best for all of you!

Posted by: Peter rogers on 12/15/2015 at 2:37 am


Ecuador Volcaloes: Grom and Crew Ready for Summit Attempt

Hello everyone. All is well here in Ecuador. The team got a decent night of sleep here on Cayambe at 15'000ft last night despite someone car alarm going off all night. We got up at 6am and had a nice breakfast before hiking up to the start of the glacier where we reviewed the climbing techniques that we'll need for tomorrow. After a few hours of training we then made our way back to the hut for a nice lunch. Currently the team is taking naps or resting outside in the always warming ecuadorian sun. Our plan is to have an early dinner tonight and try to get a little more shut-eye before our alpine start. We'll most likely get up at 11pm, have a quick breakfast and coffee, then start climbing around midnight to make use of the cooler temps. If all goes according to plan we hope to summit around 7am give or take a few. As per usual, I'm going to have a mountain trivia challenge where one lucky winner will receive a summit phone call from my Satellite phone. So everyone back home keep your phones nearby, you might be receiving a call from a strange number. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Cayambe crew
Leave a Comment For the Team

Aconcagua: Justman & Team Beat the Precip on Carry to Camp 1

A tough day today and our group truly shone. We woke up early and had a quick breakfast of oatmeal and cold cereal then threw on some heavy packs and headed to Camp 1. Our goal today was to bring up food and fuel to Camp 1 then descend back to basecamp for the last night in luxury. Our carry today took us up to 16,400 feet in quite strong winds that made the climb very challenging. Everyone performed well and we walked into Camp 1 as a strong cohesive team walking together. As soon as we left our cache of gear we flew down the mountain as light as if we were on the moon. Timing was perfect because behind us rolled in some light precip and clouds. Back at basecamp we all celebrated our well-timed carry with snacks and tea. Tomorrow our plan is to move up to Camp 1 and be in great position to learn lots from Aconcagua. The team says hi to everyone back home and keep the words of support coming. We've been reading them aloud in the evenings! RMI Guides Christina von Mertens and JJ Justman
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Your good timing on that carry is something to be thankful for! Here in the Cascade Mountains, at 4500 feet we have 2 full feet of fresh snow. So beautiful. Dogs diving and surfacing like dolphins to get through the powder. Back to you, intrepid team that you are, we wish you a smooth “moving house” day up to Camp 1. Onward!!

Blythe and Larry

Posted by: Blythe Lasley on 12/14/2015 at 2:37 pm

Sending you Love from Colorado! GO TEAM!!!

Posted by: Megan O'Meara on 12/13/2015 at 9:48 pm


Ecuador Volcanoes: Grom & Team Settle into Cayambe Climber’s Hut

Hey, everybody. This is Casey Grom calling in from Cayambe and Chimborazo climb corn here in Ecuador. We're doing great down here today. We had a nice relaxing morning at Casa de Sol. We then headed into the center of Otavalo, close to where we are staying. Otavalo is one of the largest open air markets in all of South America. The team spent a little over an hour practicing their bartering skills and doing a lot of sightseeing all the local artisan goods they have for sale. After we felt like we had enough shopping done, we got in our van and we went out to lunch just a few miles down the road. Then we headed up a long and winding road that leads up the mountain where we hit Cayambe. There's two huts up here. There's a big one and a smaller one. Thankfully for us our outfitter was able to secure the smaller hut, which is nice. It sleeps about ten. The big hut is full tonight and sleeps about 40 to 50 people, so we are pretty thankful that we got the smaller hut. We just finished our dinner, and we're settling in for the night at the base of Cayambe. Everybody's doing well. We will give a check in sometime tomorrow afternoon and let you know the game plan for the summit. See you tomorrow. RMI Guide Casey Grom


RMI Guide Casey Grom checks in from Cayambe.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Sending all my best to Danny, and fearless leader Casey Grom and team.  I took a quick peak at the weather and looks like there may be some heavy snow in your area, especially Monday night.  Hope all is well and you will be able to stay on schedule.  Everyone looks they have been enjoying themselves in the pictures.  Stay strong for yourselves and each other!  -Virginia

Posted by: Virginia N. on 12/13/2015 at 3:12 pm

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