RMI Expeditions Blog
This is Dave Hahn calling down from 14,200 feet on Mt. McKinley. It's 8:11 in the evening. It is a beautiful day, absolutely spectacular. We are way up above the clouds. The sun is still out, it hasn't gone behind the West Buttress yet. We did a great job getting up today if I don't say so myself. We started out this morning from 11,000 at about 9:15 a.m.. We weren’t really sure what the weather was going to do, but it did hold long enough for us and we made good progress coming up to 14. We came around Windy Corner and we were up here in six hours, which is always good. From having camp at 11 all to ourselves last night and being relatively alone on the mountain, so far, we're definitely in the community of guides and climbers up here at 14. A number of teams came down the mountain from up above including our friend Linden Mallory and his team. And it's great to be with those guys here at 14. They're spending the night as well, so we've got company.
Again, it's just perfect this evening there is not a puff of wind. We very are happy to be finishing up the approach to the mountain, and excited to begin the climb. Although, tomorrow we're actually going to finish up the approach. We're going to go back down and get the cache we left of food and fuel about 500 feet below camp. After we retrieve our cache then will be here for real. Bye for now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from 14,000 on Mt. McKinley
After three long days of climbing we are back at 14 Camp with the summit of Mt. McKinley under our belts. We couldn't believe our luck when we woke up at 17 Camp to absolutely beautiful weather so we set out on our summit bid mid morning, having waited a bit for the sun to warm everything up.
Nevertheless, it was still cold as we climbed the long traverse out of camp to Denali Pass at 18,500'. At the Pass a light but cold wind was blowing, so we kept our break short before continuing upwards. As soon as we climbed a few hundred vertical feet above the pass we escaped the wind that was funneling through there and it became great climbing. We made our way upwards, passing a few rock outcroppings before cresting into a broadd plateau called the Football Field (19,500') that sits below the final push to the summit. The weather remained perfect and the team strong so we set out, climbing the slopes to the summit ridge and then traversing the wildly corniced ridgeline to the summit. A moderate wind was blowing out of the southeast, which we had been protected from up till that point, but as we climbed along the ridge it blew plumes of powder snow around us - making for cold going. Finally we skirted the last cornice and climbed the final feet to the summit. It was beautiful from the top, with views in all directions.
After celebrating and soaking in thhe moment for a bit, we turned around and descended back to hig camp. The winds picked up as we descended but otherwise everyone climbed well, making it back to camp in the late evening.
This morning the wind continued to blow down through Denali Pass and into camp - not a great day to go for the top. We packed up camp and descended back down the West Buttress and down the fixed lines. It was smooth going but our legs felt the summit day yesterday, so we were all pleased to reach 14 Camp and take our packs off.
Now are sights are set on getting back to Base Camp so we can fly back to Talkeetna and then head home. We are spending the night here at 14 Camp before descending back to our first camp at 7800' at the head of the lower Kahiltna Glacier tomorrow. We plan to set up camp there for the evening and then wake up in the middle of the night to cross the lower glacier when things are nice and frozen and the snow bridges across the crevasses are strongest, hopefully arriving at Base Camp Sunday morning and flying out later that day. We'll need the weather to continue to cooperate but we're all feeling optimistic. We'll check in tomorrow from 7,800'.
Linden
Congrats to Frank and the whole team! Great job on a bigggg mountain!
Posted by: Tony Horness on 7/11/2011 at 7:41 am
We are all anxiously awaiting your return, but BE SAFE! A big hug to Frank.
Posted by: Laurie M on 7/9/2011 at 12:17 pm
The last push is always the worst. We woke up at midnight to see the sun almost set. The alpenglow on Denali was spectacular. After a quick breakfast we headed down glacier for a pickup at the airstrip, which had moved even further up the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We are forced to travel at night on the glacier because we need the natural snow bridges that provide the path over and around the cravasses to be as frozen and firm as possible. We made the trip in a little over five hours with each team member silently cursing their sleds that usually have a mind of their own on what direction to go and how often they tip over.
I have been so impressed by how well this group of guys works together and has meshed as a great team. It is so easy to get overly frustrated with the mountain, your sled, and your rope-mates. Our group managed to take out these frustrations with positive humor, which is a huge reason for our success on the mountain! Within an hour of arriving at the snow airstrip, we heard the growl of the planes coming to pick us up. Thank God for modern communication. We used our satellite phone to make sure that the planes were coming for us. The person from K2 Aviation was concerned that since it was socked in with clouds in Talkeetna, the airstrip would be too socked in to land. She was almost as relieved as we were that there was not a cloud in the sky where we were!
As soon as we landed in Talkeetna, we tossed or packs and duffles in the hanger and went for a monster breakfast to power us up for the task of sorting through the heavily used gear and clothing that we had been carrying for the past 21 days. After our post climb chores were completed and some napping took place we enjoyed our celebration of a truly great accomplishment.
Summitting the mountain aside, we had a highly successful expedition by all the measures of fun, learning, and camaraderie!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Hi this is Seth checking in from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi. All the climbers are safe and sound back at the refuge. We aborted our summit attempt at just over 18,000' today due to high winds. And all the climbers are back down safe. We'll be going to La Cienega Hacienda tonight and have a little good food and a hot shower. We're all anxiously awaiting that. We'll check in then.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Seth Waterfall checks in from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi
Hey RMI, this is Linden Mallory calling from high camp on Mt. McKinley, 17,200'. We just got back a little bit ago from our successful summit of Denali. We had a relatively easy descent, the winds picked up after we left the summit so it definitely got quite cold. We were bundled up in goggles and down jackets and neck gaiters and all that fun stuff, but the team did well. We motored back to camp and right now we are changing into dry socks and brewing up some hot drinks and dinner and crash out and get some rest. It's been a long day. Everybody's doing well. We had a great climb today. I'll try to get a written dispatch off tomorrow.
Our plan is to head downhill. Try to make it down to at least down to 14 Camp or possibly further depending on the conditions that present themselves. Hope everyone is doing well at home. The team is very excited. Tired but excited. And we'll check in tomorrow.
Take care,
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Linden Mallory and Team back at High Camp
Congrats! I’m so glad you lot were able to summit!
Posted by: Aimee on 7/8/2011 at 6:22 pm
Congrats to Frank & all - can’t wait for a first hand account.
Posted by: Pat & Jim on 7/8/2011 at 2:01 pm
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
High winds kept our teams off of the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The team headed out early and reached an elevation of 11,600' but the winds were just too strong, so they returned safely to the shelter of Camp Muir. They will be leaving Camp Muir early and will be back down to Rainier Basecamp in the early afternoon.
This is Dave Hahn calling from 11,000' on Mt. McKinley. And we carried today. It was a beautiful day. Perfect weather, everything we could ask for. Very calm and clear, we could see forever. As we got up on the hills above 11K, we could look down onto the tundra of the North. And then when we were going around Windy Corner, we could see way down the Kahiltna Glacier. In fact we could see all the way to the southern end of the Alaska Range, which is rare.
We hope to move to 14,000' Camp tomorrow. Everybody's doing really well right now. It is all going great. It is clouding up a bit so we're hoping the good weather holds, but we're all pretty optimistic at the moment.
Bye for now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Dave Hahn checks in from 11 Camp
On The Map
Nice pic!
Posted by: michelle on 7/8/2011 at 7:13 pm
Pleased your weather has been holding. Great to move higher. Wayne, I am so very proud of your accomplishments. wonderful time down south. Back to paradise tomorrow. love U, dinah
Posted by: dinah rogers on 7/8/2011 at 2:35 pm
Hey RMI this is Linden Mallory calling from the summit of Mt. McKinley. It's about 6 PM here in Alaska July 7th. We got up to the top a few minutes ago. We just had a spectacular day of climbing. Crystal clear all day, clouds down below stretching way off to the North Slope of Alaska and to the south you can see all the way towards Talkeetna. You can’t see the ocean but other than that it's absolutely gorgeous. And to top it all off there is a half moon hanging above the summit.
The team is doing great, we made good time and climbed well. We are celebrating right now, taking some photos. We are going to pack up and head down in a few moments get back to high camp. We will check in once we get down there. Take care.
RMI Guide LInden Mallory
RMI Guide Linden Mallory checks in from the summit of Mt. McKinley.
Congratulations and warm wishes to you all from Medford,Mass.Special congratulations to Paul Colaneri what a wonderful accomplishment. We are so happy for you. Your Proud co-workers.
Posted by: ann on 7/8/2011 at 12:00 pm
yeah Willie and congratulations to all - how exciting, can’t wait to see photos. So proud of you…envious too. Be safe !
Posted by: Aunt Chrissy in Colorado on 7/8/2011 at 11:59 am
Hey this is Seth and the Cotopaxi Express team checking in from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi. Overnight we had a lot of winds move in with clouds and some snow. Was a tough night for those trying for the summit. During the day today the wind has continued but the clouds are in-and-out and we are hopeful that we get a lull in the wind and we can try to punch it for the summit tonight. We had a nice day of training. Walked up about 45 minutes to over 16,000' at the toe of the glacier and did a bunch of training. Practiced our self-arrest skills and rope work and the team is psyched. I think we are going to try to head out between midnight and 2 a.m. this morning headed for the summit. And we'll call in and let you know.. hopefully we'll call you from the top. Hope all is well back home. Take care.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Seth Waterfall checks in from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi
I am confident you all will make it to the top weather permitting! Be safe and stay warm. Myself, I am heading to the beach today for two weeks and will be thinking of you all. Tell President Khan I will see him there. Enjoy the adventure! I know there will be a lifetime of tales to tell!
Posted by: Lyn Calloway on 7/8/2011 at 6:14 am
Darryl - We’re praying to see you at the top tomorrow. Have fun! Love, Dad and Jane
Posted by: Jane Schimeck on 7/7/2011 at 5:58 pm
The Four Day Summit climb led by Brent Okita, Solveig Garhart and Dan Windham reached the top of Mt. Rainier today. The team reported clear skies and 20 mph winds. At 7:40 a.m. PT the teams were at 12,300' on their descent en route to Camp Muir.
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons July 3 - 8 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by Mike Walter. The team will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain.
Congratulations to today's summit teams!
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WOW!!!!! I am so excited for all of you. Enjoy, Enjoy, Enjoy. Love thru the wind to you Wayne, Dinah
Posted by: dinah rogers on 7/9/2011 at 9:00 am
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