RMI Expeditions Blog
We flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier this morning! Our packs are rigged and we are ready to walk up hill to their 7,800' camp. Everyone is healthy, happy and ready to go!
We'll check in again when we are settled in at camp.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
We are at the base of Washburn Thumb, heading to high camp. We will rest at high camp this evening and attempt the summit early tomorrow morning. Everyone is feeling great and excited for their summit push! Weather is sunny and warm. It's almost too warm as we were climbing with the sun radiating off of the glacier.
We'll check in again soon.
Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
On The Map
It's a little soupy here at 11,000' camp this afternoon, but we're sitting pretty after retrieving our cache from 10k earlier today. A frosty morning greeted us when we woke, but a hearty round of hot drinks & breakfast burritos (eggs, cheese, salsa and hot sauce all wrapped in warm tortillas) soon chased the chill away and fueled us up for the quick trip downhill to our gear buried in the snow. Within minutes after arriving at the cache, we were packing all the food and personal luggage into our backpacks and sleds for the short uphill stretch to camp. The team moved smoothly back up and is now settled in for another afternoon of rest. We're hopeful that the weather holds for a carry to 14k tomorrow, which will be the biggest test of strength and stamina so far. But the crew continues to impress with the collective performance so we're confident about what lies ahead.
Last night at dinner, we shared some of your comments with the group. Everyone says thank you very much for keeping the team in your thoughts, and they appreciate your interest in our trip. Keep the positivity flowing as we continue our adventure!
Cheers,
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Erik Endert & Garrett Stevens
Congratulations to Casey Grom and our Liberty Ridge Climb!
Nine and 1/2 hour ascent from high camp and they will descend to Camp Schurman tonight. The team is pretty tired, but great climb and beautiful weather on top!
The Expedition Skill Seminar - Muir has had a great week of training at Camp Muir thus far. They have experienced every kind of weather Mt. Rainier has to offer from blizzard conditions to warm and sunny. They have done a lot of training and have climbed above Ingraham Flats twice this week. They made a summit attempt this morning but were turned back at 11,200' due to high avalanche conditions. The climbers are doing great and they will continue their training this afternoon. The team is considering making another summit attempt tonight weather permitting. They will descend to Paradise tomorrow afternoon and complete their program.
We have been busy on the mountain. With our summit attempt thwarted because of weather and the next projected weather window this Sunday the team has decided to head home to our families.
Last night we slept at 14,000 feet and after a leisurely start to the day we have descended to about 9,500 ft. We will sleep here for a few hours tonight, awake around 4 a.m. so that we can take advantage of the frozen snow bridges, and push on to the Kahiltna air strip. Unless we get stuck on the glacier because of bad weather this will be our last message from the mountain. We will talk to you all very soon.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
What a day is all I can say. We awoke to great weather at 4 a.m. this morning with nice traveling temps. The team packed camp in good style and moved smoothly for just over four hours, arriving at 11,000' camp just after 10 a.m. We went right to work building our best and most deluxe camp yet including an enclosed mountain business station.... and and a posh house kitchen that tops a five star establishment.
The team is climbing well, though a bit pooped this afternoon. All of us are in great spirits. We are hiding in the tents from the intense radiation on this blue bird day while catching up on hydration and rest. Tomorrow will bring us a short back carry to retrive our cache from yesterday which should disperse the lactic acid in our legs by helping us move some blood along with helping the crew further acclimate.
Days like today are some of the best and most memorable in the mountains, and we're all excited to be sharing this experience together. Cheers from 11,000'!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
Hello,
This is Adam Knoff checking in with the Upper West Rib Team checking in from 14,000' on Mt. McKinley. After making a descent from 17,000' to Genet Basin at 14,200' and regrouping, we are feeling like reaching the summit is a possibility again. We left much of our gear at 17,000' anticipating a return, we’ve just had the most spectacular rest day, and now with the weather improving, we have decided to head back to 17,000' tomorrow on another summit shot.
Although descending to 14 and then ascending again represents a lot of hard work, from an acclimatization standpoint, it’s the bomb and we’re psyched!
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
After all the hard work getting ready, the months of training and many miles of travel, our entire team landed in Anchorage with all our gear ready to get our Mt. McKinley Expedition underway. We are headed to Talkeetna to organize our packs and take care of the final rigging before flying into the Alaska Range later this week. Thanks to all our friends and families back home for all the encouragement and support as we leave you for a few weeks to return with an excellent adventure to share.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Howdy, from the Kahiltna.
Today we made more progress moving nearly all our groceries, gas, and cold weather climbing equipment up to 10k just below Kahiltna Pass. The team climbed strong and moved very efficiently completing the big carry in just five hours round trip - not bad considering the 6ft+ deep hole we needed to dig to fit 15 days of food, gallons of gas and extra personal equipment for our 12-man crew. The weather was in our favor with nice travel temperatures and overcast skies that quickly turned to moderate snow just moments after our team's arrival back to camp just below Ski Hill. With a bit of remission of the snow tomorrow we'll pack camp and move to 11k, where the crampons and ice axes come out and the steeper climbing at altitude kicks in. We will update you again soon.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
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Kim, my buddy Ice Cube says, YA YA..there was a TB alert in the Big Easy..:) Keep powering to the top…it must be incredible…
Posted by: WW Coco Chanel on 6/19/2011 at 11:39 am
Good luck anne Gilbert…....have a great time! We are so proud of you!
Posted by: Chris Chase on 6/12/2011 at 4:33 am
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