The Summit Teams departed Camp Muir for an early alpine start today but were forced to turn around at approximately 11,400' due to high winds, poor visibility and reportedly high avalanche conditions. The Five Day Summit Climb May 25 - 29 and the Four Day Summit Climb May 26 - 29 teams returned safely to Camp Muir and rested for a few hours before starting their decent to Paradise.
Sleeping in has never felt better! Today there were no calls for hots while the temps outside hovered near the 0 degree mark. We got up when the sun warmed up the inside of the tent and the frost on the tent walls and ceilings started dripping on our foreheads.
Today was a day to linger over our brunch of smoked salmon, bagels and cream cheese. Have a third cup of something, and just relax. Yes, at one point we did feel obliged to fortify camp as all smart climbers would, but many hands made for short work of this chore.
We also hosted our successful RMI team led by Billy and Solveig to some fine bacon and cheese bagels. These guys were on their way down the mountain to catch a plane off the glacier.
So far the weather looks good for us to move camp up to 17,200'. We're all excited for the move, seeing how it will put us in great position to finally make our summit bid. We'll try to catch you tomorrow for an update, but given the tremendous amount of work we have in store, it may be delayed.
Good night,
RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Maile
I hope this is the right team! I wanted to give a shout out to Frank Saunders! I am watching progress here in Memphis at Armstrong! What an incredible experience! So proud of you! Have fun and can’t wait to hear all about the details when you get back!
Posted by: Monica on 5/31/2011 at 6:46 am
sounds you you all had a great deserved day of rest. Maile I know how much you like to have your nap so I hope you got one in. Hope the weather holds for you guys Miss ya girl xoxo Mom
Another day in the bank. We are still enjoying sunny days and warm, but pleasant, temperatures at our 9,500' camp on Mt. McKinley. We carried a load of gear and food up to 11,200 feet which will help our acclimation process and get us set up for climbing higher on the mountain. However the crew is most excited that they are done with the heavy loads...for now.
We are back at 9,500' resting and acclimatizing. We will check in again soon.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
This is Adam checking in from Mt McKinley.
Yesterday our team made an exploratory reconnaissance up the NE Fork of the Kahiltna. This is the approach glacier that leads to the bottom of our climbing route, the West Rib.
It was an instructive day. Without going into detail, suffice it to say for reasons based on mountaineering experience we have decided to forego climbing the lower portion of the West Rib. Rather, our revised plan will be to follow the West Buttress route to 14,000’ and from there intersect the ridgeline and climb the upper West Rib to the summit.
We are aiming to make camp today at 9,500’. The weather is gorgeous, the team is strong, and everyone is excited about our new strategy.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Glad to hear that you guys are making smart, safe decisions. While I know you had hoped to complete the full West Rib, it’s always better to be safe and prudent, and I’m sure the Upper Rib line will still be amazing. Good luck to my Peter and the rest of the team, and stay safe!
Posted by: Esther Kim on 5/30/2011 at 10:22 am
Man that sounds great! Wish I was there! Have a great climb guys!
We awoke to a clear, cold morning, excited to get our climb up the fixed ropes and onto the West Butress started. With several other guided groups set to climb this morning, we coordinated our departures and ended up being the first big party up the hill, alllowing us to move unhindered by other traffic. This ended up working out great for us because our teamed proved to be up to the task of climbing the steep terrain of the route.
Under perfect conditions, we negotiated the fixed lines that seem so dauntingly steep from camp, and made our way up the Butress to a cache spot at 16,600'. This is a spot higher than most folks cache, yet everyone made it there in good form. At this point the climbers who were still feeling great went on to carry all the way up to 17,200' camp, a feat that I had yet to be able to do with a group in 20 years! This is certainly a testament to how well our team is doing.
So, after this great success (and incredibly hard work) we are really looking forward to our first rest day tomorrow. Given the amount of energy everyone has given to reach this point, it will be the rest we so deserve to charge back up the batteries in preparation for our last move towards the summit.
I, for one, am looking forward to sleeping in tomorrow.
Good night,
Brent
Go Frank, go!! I’m following with excitement and wishing you well. Elizabeth from Rainier session. PS. Brandi is heading to Nepal next week!
Posted by: elizabeth holt on 5/31/2011 at 2:01 am
Wow you guys are doing awsome. I am so happy the weather is in your favor. Enjoy your much need rest day. I will b thinking of you all please stay safe. I love you Maile. xoxo Mom
Hey everyone this is Billy checking in and letting you know that we are back down at high camp after a really successful summit day with near perfect weather. The crew is exhausted but in good spirits. Tomorrow we are going to pack up camp here at 17,000’ and beat feet for the airstrip. Hopefully we will get to the airstrip on Sunday and be able to fly. That is all weather dependent of course. So we will check in when we get to base camp.
Ciao,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
We had a productive day today on the slopes of Denali. We moved camp to 9,500 ft and made one of the mental transition to life on the mountain. By that I mean that we started talking about food cravings. Today it was differrent types of potato chip.
We are all tired from our 6 hours on the trail but we are all healthy and happy.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
Billy Nugent and team reached the summit of Mt. McKinley today - May 27th! Billy called in at 7:15 p.m. PT from the Football Field, they were en route back to High Camp at 17,000’. Everyone was doing well.
Congratulations to Billy, Solveig and the team!
RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in after reaching the summit
Hey DREW!... its Grandpop here. What a greta adventure .he photos are awesome When you get back, i’ll want to see all of them and hear of the adventure.
Take care on your way down.
Love,
Grandpop
Posted by: Bob AKA "Grandpop" on 5/29/2011 at 7:24 am
Solveig you are the greatest. We are so proud of you! Have a safe trip down, Way to go! Aunt Virgnia, Laurel,Holly,and Heather
Posted by: Virginia Peterson on 5/29/2011 at 3:50 am
Hello, this is Adam Knoff here at 7,800’ on the Kahiltna Glacier with the West Rib Team. We have moved up successfully to this camp and we are enjoying perfect weather. We are going to take advantage of the weather and do a reconnaissance up the Northeast Fork of the Kahilta trying to establish a route up towards the West Rib. We will then be moving back to camp here and have plans to carry to 9,500' feet tomorrow and hopefully to 11,000' the following day.
Everyone is well and in good spirits. We saw Mike Walter and team coming down today and they are most thrilled to be heading out. We will update you tomorrow on the progress of a reconnaissance.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
I hope this is the right team! I wanted to give a shout out to Frank Saunders! I am watching progress here in Memphis at Armstrong! What an incredible experience! So proud of you! Have fun and can’t wait to hear all about the details when you get back!
Posted by: Monica on 5/31/2011 at 6:46 am
sounds you you all had a great deserved day of rest. Maile I know how much you like to have your nap so I hope you got one in. Hope the weather holds for you guys Miss ya girl xoxo Mom
Posted by: ginny myers on 5/30/2011 at 6:42 am
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