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RMI Expeditions Blog


Aconcagua Expedition: Carry to Camp 1

Hello everyone! We are back at basecamp after a very successful carry to, and cache at Camp 1! The group did very well today, and now all of our upper mountain gear and food is staged for us. The next step: REST. Today was the first day of the trip with heavy packs, and for many of the group a new personal altitude record. Tomorrow we will spend the day at base, eating food, napping, and recovering tired muscles. If all goes according to plan, we will move our camp to 16,000 feet the day after tomorrow, and continue the process of acclimating and moving our gear up the mountain. Everyone is excited to have completed our first big day, and sends their best! All for now. Cheers, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Gilbert Chase, Gabriel Barral, and team
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Its only been a week and two days and I can’t even explain how long it seems! I miss you sooo bad! I cannot wait to hear more about it! Congratulations on making it to your highest point! I hope u can carry your sunblock! I love u mawah! What an experience! The pictures are unreal!!!!!!! It’s sooo massive! You are punkswole!so this thing and come home to your three babies with a lot of pics!

Posted by: Wiyanna on 1/14/2012 at 9:27 pm

Bryan, Dude wear that mountain out like we wore my Jeep Cherokee out!!! You got this brother! I’m proud of you!  Love Adam Stroupe

Posted by: Adam Stroupe on 1/13/2012 at 6:38 pm


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Sight Seeing in Quito

Our Ecuador's Volcanoes team has arrived here in Quito after a fair bit of travel, but healthy and with all of our gear! Always a good start to a trip. Today we took to the streets, touring Quito's revitalized Old Town and taking in the sights from La Panela, the hilltop site of the Virgin of Quito where we could clearly see the city snaking to the North and South, the ancient churches and plazas quite visible from our vantage point. Then it was off to lunch and a stop at the "Mitada del Mundo," the "center of the earth." Here the equator is marked by more than just a line and we were able to double check it's accuracy with a few tests, putting to rest the long debate about which way the toilet flushes in which hemisphere (can you remember without testing?). All in all a great first day and the afternoon thunderstorms even held off for us! RMI Guides Jake Beren & Zeb Blais
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Aconcagua Expedition: Resting at Base Camp

Hello, Our team arrived yesterday to Aconcagua Base Camp at 14,000' after three nice days on the trail. We spent today resting and acclimating for the upper mountain. After a delicious breakfast we checked in with the Basecamp Medical Staff and received a clean bill of health all the way around (everybody looks like rock stars). During the afternoon we worked on sorting the gear that we are going to carry to Camp 1 tomorrow. The weather was marvelous until 4 pm and since then it has been cloudy with a little bit of snow. The team wants to wish a very Happy Birthday to Chad Johnson! Cheers, RMI Aconcagua Team

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H.i Dave . What do think of that screed hill up to camp 1. The good news is that you have to do it one more time . Ross

Posted by: Ross on 1/12/2012 at 8:25 am

Wally: Glad you’re doing well. Keep it up. Keep warm.

Posted by: Greg Scherschel on 1/12/2012 at 7:48 am


Aconcagua Expedition: Team arrives at Pampa de Lenas

Hi everybody, This is the Aconcagua team checking in from Pampa de Leñas camp. After a few days in Mendoza and Penitentes doing the hardest part of climbing a big mountain (getting the climbing permits, trying to get all the duffel bags that didn't make it to the airport with us, packing a ton of food and gear for the mules, etc), today we started the trek to Base Camp. The mountain welcomed us with a perfect blue sky day. We hiked for five and half hours today and got to our first camp on the Vacas Valley. Everybody did a great job and we are all feeling good. We are getting ready to sit down to dinner. Pete and Gilbert have cooked a gorgeous veggie pasta, almost as good as the amazing Argentinian steaks that we were eating since we arrived in Mendoza. That is all for today, cheers! RMI Guide Gabriel Barral and Team Aconcagua.

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RMI Guides Learn Valuable Instruction in the AIARE Level 1 Instructor Course

RMI Guides Lindsay Mann and Pete Van Deventer recently met up in Frisco, Colorado, for the AIARE Level I Avalanche Instructor Training Course. AIARE (American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education) is the main course provider for avalanche courses and training in the United States. For three days Lindsay and Pete along with 16 other future instructors discussed current avalanche knowledge, curriculum material, and teaching techniques. Classroom time was balanced by field sessions, ski touring the very accessible terrain around Vail Pass. While the snowpack so far this year is relatively uninteresting from an avalanche perspective, the opportunity to trade ideas with 16 other peers and watch each other in the field was a great experience for both Lindsay and Pete. Many thanks to First Ascent and RMI for providing a Guide Grant to aid Lindsay and Pete in moving into an avalanche education instructor role. Look for Pete and Lindsay ski touring around the Aspen, Colorado, area when they are not guiding trips on Rainier, Alaska, and beyond for RMI.
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Aconcagua Expedition: Team Arrives in Mendoza

The entire team arrived safely in Mendoza with all our gear (almost). One delayed bag should be arriving tomorrow in Mendoza. It is after midnight here and we just returned to the hotel after our first team dinner. We had a great meal enjoying the local flavors of Malbec and of course some Argentinian beef. We were busy all day with everyone's arrival and our first team meeting. We are now just finishing the day. Everyone is excited to start the trip and is looking forward to get closer to the big mountain. Cheers Gabi, Pete and Gilbert
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SIR WALTER GLOVER: Great weather forecast for the climb! Godspeed and have fun! Dan & Deb Meno

Posted by: Dan Meno on 1/11/2012 at 10:51 am

bryan!!! i am sooo happy to be able to hear your voice!!! hang in there!! you are my superman!! i love you.. prayers and wishes from everyone here….good luck!!!!!

Posted by: wiyanna on 1/11/2012 at 10:45 am


Lou Whittaker Interview

RMI Founder Lou Whittaker was interviewed last month by the Magic Valley Newspaper in Twin Falls, ID. Lou took some time off from skiing in Sun Valley to sit down and talk about his lifetime of climbing. Check out the article: Famous Mountain Climber Lou Whittaker Talks about His Highest Climbs.
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Special Tribute to Nawang Gombu Sherpa

Special Tribute to Nawang Gombu Sherpa
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I had the previlage of climing with Gombu in 1978
on Mt.McKinley along with Phil Ersler with the RMI
team. I spent several nights in the same tent with
him listening to him tell stories about his Everest
climbs, what an adventure to have meet him. Saw him
over 20years later on the way to the summit of Mt. Rainer and he reconized me!

Posted by: Greg H. Craft on 5/25/2012 at 3:59 pm

August 1984. My first climb of Mt. Rainier. Gombu was a great tutor, using crampons and an ice axe. The crevasse rescues were scary stuff, at first, but experience made them easier to set up and use successfully. After all the years in between, I remember Gombu well. Rest in peace.

Posted by: G. Arnold Hartford on 5/23/2012 at 3:54 pm


Aconcagua Expedition: Team Returns to Mendoza

Feliz Ano Nuevo from Mendoza! Our last dispatch was from Aconcagua's base camp and we have certainly covered many miles since then. A big day of walking from Plaza Argentina to Pampa de Llenas put us in camp just in time for a big Asado prepared by our herreros, the mule drivers who transport our gear off the mountain. An early morning walk brought us to Penitentes where we showered and had lunch before heading to Mendoza. Now back in civilization our celebratory meal felt great and is a far cry from mountain food and the thin air of the Andes, but the significance of the last few weeks that put us on top of the highest mountain outside of the Himalaya is still sinking in. Everyone has done a great job and I am thankful for the time spend with a great team. Nice work all! RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Aconcagua Expedition: Team Returns to Base Camp

After nearly 6,000 feet of walking downhill, our tired but happy team pulled into Plaza Argentina. It was sunny and calm and perfect for setting up a relaxed camp before a big steak dinner. Everyone descended in style, putting a proud finish to a great climb. Tomorrow we will walk to Pampa de Llenas, a short hop from the road to Mendoza. Talk to you all in a few days. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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