RMI Expeditions Blog

RMI Teams led by Dave Hahn and Joe Crawford reached the summit of Mt. Rainier! They started their descent back to Camp Muir around 9:30am. RMI Guide Dave Hahn reported great weather and good route conditions. 

Congrats team!

On the evening of May 31st, the Mount Baker Easton climb went 100% to the top! We enjoyed calm and clear conditions, with the route all to ourselves. The sunset was around 9:00pm, transitioning into a beautiful full-moon which illuminated the sky to the East. 

Thanks to the team for all the effort and hard work to make it happen. 

- RMI Guide Sam Hoffman and Kat Porter
 

Monday, June 1st - 11PM PST

Good fortune rewards the bold.

We woke craving the sun. Shivering, yet still smiling, our breakfast of grits and pop tarts fueled our warm laughs and usual morning camaraderie. When finished, we all knew what we needed to do. Today was our acclimatization climb. Now strong worriers against our ever present enemy, the cold, we roped up and left camp just as the rest of the 14k village began to rise. We had the buttress to ourselves and our temperatures rose back to normal, the unimaginable views ripened as we climbed higher into the thin air. For much of our crew, every step up was a new personal record in either elevation or latitude north. The awe of where we are and what we are doing had started to truly sink in. The once daunting fixed lines were a breeze for our well prepared and efficient team. With ease we reached the saddle. Just over 16,000 feet, the deep breaths were welcome. The thin air seemed to render nothing but gratitude. Appreciation for the raw beauty that surrounds us. Happiness for this experience we get to share together. Gratitude for each others efforts and pride in being part of this team. With the same efficiency we made it back to camp with enough afternoon to relax and watch the swarms of climbers conga line up and down the fixed lines. We reflected on the simplicity of life up here, the simple joys and the few frustrations and just how lucky we are to be here. But maybe what we’ve been calling luck, the luck of our awesome teammates, luck of the weather, the luck of feeling good and our strength, the luck seeing the surrounding, jaw-dropping views, is actually the reward for our valiant efforts. Burns and team knows they’ve earned a rest day.

Monday, June 1st - 10:40PM PST

To the 12 readers of this blog following the journey of an unlikely, but wholly likable, group of adventurers, we welcome you to day 5 - The Journey to Camp Two! Today’s harrowing tale sees our hearty heroes punching a trail they climbed two days ago to where we cached gear, and then climbing on to camp 2. The climb today felt totally different from the first time - the blue bird sky and clear vistas were replaced with low clouds, and a few inches of new snow. We heard from other teams that it cleared up once you got closer to camp 2. And boy did it! Clear skies graced us yet again along with much colder temperatures and high winds. This is the first time it really feel like we are on the mountain. Picking up our cached gear along with way puts us in an ideal position to continue up the mountain as long as the weather holds, but the added weight made a hard climb seem REALLY hard. But, we all made it in good spirits to our goal, and I’m sure the extra effort will pay dividends in the days to come.

Now the last few days of blog posts have been amazing, am I right? (Pauses for applause) but don’t think that it’s all lofty introspection out here. Many times we end up telling dad jokes to pass the time. So here is my silly list of nominations based on what I know about people so far (please note: these are subject to change by the end of the trip. The author may in no way be held liable for the accuracy of these nominations.)

Ricky: least likely to get sunburned. Don’t prove me wrong!

Alonzo: Most likely to climb all seven summits, we’re rooting for you, brother!

Matt: Most likely to become a bush pilot.

Lizzie and Pattie: most likely to be mistaken for a married couple on their next adventure (I hear SCUBA diving may be next - at least somewhere warm)

Peter: most likely to be ready, willing, and able to help a brother (or sister) out when in need.

Ray: Most likely to entertain you with lively conversation and great stories if you are lucky enough
to be walking within earshot.

Lacie: Most likely to have a shockingly good impression of everyone by the end of the trip (ooh ooh do me first!) ��

And last but certainly not least, Jackson: Most likely to get us to the top of Denali (and back down) safe and sound!

Oh, and me. I’m the most likely to try and dodge writing the daily blog even after I sort of volunteered��

To make this blog more interactive and to let you know that we read all of the comments, I want to let our dear readers know that Pattie is just as concerned about her lawn maintenance as you are and will eagerly tackle that chore just as soon as she is done submitting this beast of a mountain.

Now for the fun part: audience participation!

1. Please nominate a climber to write tomorrow’s blog. Must be someone that hasn’t written so far. Available people are Pattie, Alonzo, and Matt. First comment wins.
2. We missed the answer to last nights trivia. Can someone please let us know how many claps there are total in the Friends theme song? 

We love all of your support. Now show some love to the RMI Team and Like, comment and subscribe!

- RMI Climber Dave
 

Monday, June 1st - 9PM PST

Well, we did it. We packed up camp at 14 yesterday morning, and began the trek back down the mountain around noon. We rolled through our old camps, and luckily got to see a few friends along the way. We picked up trash, old CMCs, and a few hugs here and there. We continued through the lower Kahiltna - in a white out, fitting for this trip. 

Eventually, around 10PM we pulled our heavy sleds up heart break hill and into base camp again. We enjoyed a midnight dinner, and settled into our tents for (hopefully) the last time. 

The following morning we checked in with K2 and hoped to fly. We got lucky, and by 11A the planes were on the ground and we crawled in. 

The team is back in Talkeetna and enjoying vegetables and beer for the first time in a while.
 

-RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Monday, June 1st - 12:45AM PST

Hello blog readers! We awoke this morning to the sun blessing our tents. It took sometime to get our momentum rolling but soon we were headed downhill. The sweet thick air below us was calling our names! We descended the 16k ridge in stellar weather with almost the entire thing to ourselves. Then back down the fixed lines for the final time. Next thing you know we were back at 14k camp! We were greeted with great hospitality from the RMI team lead by Seth Burns. After an hour of so of R&R and repacking, we continued on our journey downward. After 6,000 feet of descent, we were back at our nemesis - 11 Camp  but this time on better terms. This time it’ll only be a short layover with a few hours of sleep before we finish our descent to the Kahiltna International Airport where we hope to catch a ride on a Turbo Otter to Talkeetna!

Cheers,
Jack and the Team
(fingers crossed for flyable weather!)

Sunday, May 31st - 8:30PM PST

We awoke at 7am to 4” of fresh snow blanketing the camp. Since then, it has continued to fall at a steady pace. Temperatures are just below freezing. Little to no wind. Visibility is much reduced compared to the last 3 days, but still a good 3/4 mi.

There was potential we would move camp today, leapfrogging where we buried our cache yesterday and continuing on to Camp 2. However, Jackson warned us that the mild conditions at our current 7,800’ can be dramatically magnified above at 11,000’. Heeding this, decision was made to take our first rest day. A time to relax, take care of ourselves, and recharge the physical stores we would desperately need in the coming weeks. (Note: as of 12:35pm “Camp 2 just reported 2’ of snow since last night!”)

While the body, pushed hard over the last two days of hauling heavy loads, certainly welcomed this respite, I knew the mind could be more finicky. Since landing in Alaska, we’ve been hyper focused on travel, gear lists, packing, re-packing, logistics, learning new skills, meeting new people, adapting to our life on the mountain, and then hours of step by step by step to reach Camp 1. Now it seemed we have nothing to fixate on besides sitting in our tents and…thinking.

We inevitably start asking ourselves those questions. Why the hell are we here? On paper, the entire endeavor makes no sense. Each of us has voluntarily left our boyfriends, girlfriends, husbands, wives, children, pets, friends, and family to spend weeks slogging up into one of the most remote, desolate, and entirely hostile places on Earth. Thousands of dollars. All of our paid time off. Bruises, blisters, headaches, and countless other torments. Temperatures lower than you thought physically possible. Our cozy beds replaced with -40 degree sleeping bags on lumpy snow and ice. Our kitchen tables replaced with benches and counters cut 6’ down into the packed snow. Our bathrooms replaced with a Ziploc bag of wet wipes and a literal bucket. To any rational person, this is madness. Why then?

But here, everyone knows. No bewildered looks from a co-worker as you try to explain. We all innately understand the desire to be in this place. We come here to find the things that are so rare in the modern world. Adventure. Simplicity. Persevering over physical hardship. Proving that who we were will never stop us from becoming who we are. Standing in awe of nature, both in its breathtaking beauty, and in horror of the enormity of its sheer power. Feeling truly mortal. A small speck in a vast system that we cannot fully comprehend. Letting go of our pride, our hubris, our fear of relying on others. Connection. Bonds that can only be forged through shared sweat, trials and tears. Knowing that there really are other people out there as crazy as we are. That is why we came. And that is why we will remain here together, taking on each day as it comes.

-RMI Climber Peter

Sunday, May 31st - 8:30PM PST

Today Seth, our benevolent lead, let us sleep in for one extra hour. We woke to crisp, clear skies. Many hot beverages were served, paired with  granola bars and an air of white gas. Post “breakfast” we headed downhill to collect our cache. There were tears of joy as people were reunited with precious snacks, and for some, toilet paper. After our short adventure, we settled into the posh, ate blueberry pancakes doused in maple syrup and enjoyed the heat from the stoves. Full on cakes, we moved to our next task: fortify our walls for the incoming wind. Graham is the undisputed block building champ, and after some time in the sun our labyrinth was complete. Thankfully this included higher bathroom walls, hopefully decreasing awkward interactions at the pee hole. The rest of the day was spent training, and then greeting our friends from up high. Continuing the food trend, we finished with a green coconut curry. All in all, the day was good, and somehow, the food was even better.

- RMI guide Marge

RMI Guides Mike King and Avery Stolte and the Five Day Climb Teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:50am this morning. Mike reported a chilly morning with light winds. Both teams are on their descent back to Camp Muir and will head back to Paradise tomorrow. 

Congratulations!

On Saturday, May 30th at 8pm, Delaney and team were on the summit of Mt. McKinley!

More info coming soon!