RMI Expeditions Blog

Hello dear readers,

As I lay down in my tent after another eventful day on Aconcagua, I can hear what sounds like a freight train. And as I type that, the sides of the tent bend into my face as that freight train reaches camp — in the form of 40+ mph winds.

This has become a fairly normal occurrence for the 2026 Aconcagua season.

Here’s what you need to know. Today we carried loads up and up a traverse we’ve been staring at since the first time we saw Aconcagua nearly a week ago. Near the top, we stopped, pulled on our hard shells, and braced ourselves. We knew we were about to get blasted as we crossed the Ameghino Col.

We were right.

Huge gusts ripping through. A brief moment of calm, then another hit. And another. We kept moving. Sometimes stopping to brace. Short breaks. Then back to it.

Before long, we dropped into Camp 2 — snow spinning off the ridgelines, winds strong enough to knock you off balance if you weren’t paying attention. We dove into the dome tent as fast as possible, grateful for even a small reprieve.

There’s plenty more wind in the forecast, but there’s also still hope. If we keep doing the right things, day after day, we may earn a chance at the top. For now, we stay right here in the moment.

Tomorrow we move to Camp 2. Hopefully with less wind. But either way — we’re ready. We’re ready.

I’m beyond proud of this team for charging hard, staying mentally and physically strong, and still laughing with me along the way.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel

P.S. did you figure out who Lady Whistledown was? That’s a secret I’ll never tell. ��

Blog- Interview style with father and son 

We beg your indulgence for any poor grammar, mispelllings, provocative language, or boldface lies. We are writing on an iPhone on the bus back to CDMX. Also some of us apparently watch Anthony Bourdain videos during class. 

Hardest part of the peak? 

G-Descending the glacier, I was leading our rope team. i wanted to set a good pace but didn’t want anyone to slip.

What was the make or break elevation? 

G- 16,800.  It reminded me of being at the top of the DC on Rainier. It ‘s  a point where you have to commit to finishing.  Climbing Ixta was a great reference point. Once we got past 17,100, it was a new highest altitude for each of us, and once I got there I believed I could get to the summit. 

What did the mountain teach you about life?

G- When things feel too hard you have to dig deeper. 

Describe Pulque, and how did it affect your progress up the mountain? 

E- One of the things I was most looking forward to in Puebla, after watching Anthony Bourdain’s “no reservations” in my math class, pulque or as we referred to it Mexican cactus jizz was as one would expect, pretty awful. The one redeeming quality was that it did give me the extra confidence to push through the glacier on orizaba, cause if I can tank half a liter of Pulque I can do anything.

G- I would describe Pulque as the glue you use to hang wallpaper, but slightly less appetizing, came in a cool jug though. I don’t drink, so I didn’t try it, but I am sure it puts hair on your ice ax. 

 How much sleep did you get?

G- That question presupposes that I got any sleep. I might have accidentally napped for 30 minutes.

E- I slept like a log from a cool 7:00 pm to when la jefa (Lacie) shook us awake at 12:30 am 

First thing you did when you got to the hostel/ or off the mountain?

G- tried to clean up the tent but fell asleep on Eli’s sleeping bag. 

E- shower beer.

Best mountain snack on Orizaba?

G-our amazing guide gave us meat sticks which we could not find in Mexico. 

E- my 400 mg of caffeine through various supplements including guu, shot blocks, and a yerba mate from the states.

How did you prepare in the morning?

G-1st question my sanity, then put leukotape on my heels. I never get blisters when I tape up and that small ritual of taking care of my body prepares my mindfor the climb. 

E- Threw in headphones and blasted some Strokes until I was able to start fighting the cold and leave the comfort of my sleeping bag.

How many times did you eat shit?

G- Not expressible in a number, it’s more a state of being. Fortunately it only happened when I was wearing my approch shoes lower on the mountain. I also caught myself as many times as I fell. Falling your way down the mountain can be a safe, acceptable means of descent. 

E- Question not applicable.

G- Show off. 

Worst part?

G- A couple of climbers had to turn around part way through, which was the absolute right judgment call, but made me question if I should go down too.

E- post summit I had a headache for about an hour and a half which blowed.

What new mountaineering techniques did you learn?

E-How to breathe through my nose which was only possible from 12 to 18 thousand feet. As well as more technical skills such as: climbing with a rope, walking flat footed, the most optimal height for a hiking pole( which I will be gatekeeping), and how to take a very scenic piss. 

What was it like to breathe at 18k feet?

G- surprisingly easy! that elevation was my biggest worry about the trip, and I am grateful it was not a problem. 

Describe the labyrinth. 

G- to quote Gimli: “an impassable labyrinth of razor sharp rocks.” I really enjoyed it because it involved scrambling through mixed Ice and rock, and made my rock climbing brain happy. 

Best part of Orizaba?

G-Walking up to the summit with my son was a high point of my life, not just of the trip. Also I enjoyed climbing through the base glacier above the labyrinth and listening to the crackle of the ice which was like shattering glass under my crampons.

E- Finally reaching the summit and taking in the views from 18 thousand feet above sea level.

What did you enjoy about Mexico on rest days?

G - Exploring central Puebla. It’s a gorgeous city and I will definitely come back.

E- The amazing food we found by wandering around aimlessly.

How hard was it for your dad to convince you to skip a week of your final semester of high school? 

E- It was a pretty hard decision, I had to choose between sitting through my brainless Math, Government, and Bio classes or go to Mexico and climb some of the highest peaks in North America, while eating great food and meeting amazing people.

Thanks for reading,

RMI Climbers Greg and Eli Robillard

We have made our way north, through a variety of detours that have served to continue or process of acclimatization, keep us well fed and give us the opportunity to learn about the culture. Yesterday, we went for a loop hike around the beautiful Laguna Cuicocha. Over just a short distance, the fauna changes drastically as one side of the lake is far more arid than the side that sits right up against Volcan Cotacachi. It was a thoroughly enjoyable hike as we rambled through a variety of microclimates and had the chance to see condors in flight. But you know, there is always something new or interesting to see along the way. Sometimes at the end of the day it's something small, like a cheese ice cream, that stands out.

After a relaxing night at the Intiyaya residences, which in Kichwa (the native language in parts of Ecuador and slightly different than Quechua) may roughly translate to "Father Sun", we departed for the busy streets of the Otavalo market. It was a drizzly day, but Saturday is always bustling in the market. The usual bartering took place, copious espressos were consumed and then we made our way to the Yanacocha Hut, on the lower slopes of Cayambe. Everyone is tucked into bed here in the comfort of a hut we have all to ourselves. On deck for tomorrow is one last leg of travel that will take us to the main Cayambe hut (15,400') and the base of the climb.

If the weather cooperates tomorrow, then right about the time they are awarding the Super Bowl MVP we will be waking up for our alpine start on Cayambe. The climbing takes place at night here for a variety of factors, which can all be summed up by saying that the weather at night tends to be the most stable when the air is coolest. In addition to that, it is very difficult to trudge uphill during the daylight in this region as the sun's radiation is so intense, so we hope to be headed downhill by just after sunrise.

Check back on Monday afternoon to find out if the mountain allowed us passage this time around!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Today was a shorter day. We woke to the sun painting the sky pink and the wind once again turning our hair into something resembling Gene Wilder on a bad day. The views made up for it, though, and the same wind did us a favor by keeping the mosquitoes away everywhere except inside our tents. These damn things know where we sleep. 

Before hitting the trail we headed down to the beach to get another look at the glacier we had been gawking at the day before. A few splash zone experiences from the waves and a few group pics later, we were on our way. A steady climb brought us to a vantage point with two competing views: the Dickson Glacier behind us and the valley ahead that leads to tomorrow’s crux, John Garner Pass.

Tomorrow we will be up dark and early for our final day before transitioning from the O portion to the W portion of the trek. For now, we eat some cake and drink some wine to celebrate yet another birthday!! Happy Birthday, Catherine!! Wish us luck.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

PC: Dominic Cifelli

Dearest Gentle Reader,

As February marches forward on Aconcagua, many of us are left wondering: who will be this season’s diamond?

Perhaps the honor goes to our esteemed mountain guides, Duchess Wedel and the Viscount, Leandro. This author stood amazed at the rapid and seemingly flawless execution of logistics this morning, as they sorted, weighed, divvyed and divinated, all in service of our move to Camp 1. The Viscount in particular turned heads when he produced, somehow, two rounds of delicious hamburgers for dinner at 16,400 feet.

Or perhaps this season’s incomparable is Cuca and her indefatigable base camp court. The Ton left camp this morning bellies full and spirits high, in no small part thanks to their industrious efforts hosting us for five restorative days at Base Camp.

Perhaps it is not one diamond her majesty selects this season, but rather six. The whole Ton huffed and puffed for hours today, carrying loads to our newly appointed estates at Camp 1. Many a bead of sweat fell beneath an azure, cloudless sky and a relentless Sun more overbearing than the mother of any eligible lady in her debut season.

This author suspects the season’s true diamond, as in all climbing seasons, is indeed Her Majesty herself: Aconcagua! But will our climbers reach the capricious perch of her much sought after summit? Each season many claim her crown while many others return to greener pastures humbled by her many challenges.

And so the Ton proceeds to the upper mountain, in pursuit of her favour. Marching upward and onward, eager to climb ever-higher in elevation, if not in her esteem. But challenges enumerable await them as they leave behind the comforts of base camp. Will the Ton’s thus-far tireless bonhomie survive the indignities of high camp and strong winds? I suspect, dear reader, that only time will tell. 

— Yours as always, Lady Whistledown

PC: Jess Wedel

Friday, February 6, 2026

Rest days at base camp have a funny way of being both quiet and full. Today was about taking care of the little things before we head higher — the kind of things that feel oddly important when you’re about to trade comfort for commitment.

There were showers. Likely the last real ones for a while. Sun hoodies were washed — the one that will be worn for the next nine days. Morale improved accordingly.

Some of us still worked (yes, even on the side of a mountain… thank you, Starlink). We all took a slow walk out into the surrounding landscape, which looks less like Argentina and more like Mars. Red rock, wide silence, and that sense that you’re very far from anywhere else.

We were reminded that taking steps is easy, standing still is hard. Base camp life does that to you.

As the evening settled in, it was the usual mix: friends, a little wine, a lot of laughter, and a growing mental shift toward what comes next. We’re getting ready to climb.

Tomorrow, we head up.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel

P.S. Erika - we are loving the song suggestions! Today we kept it chill and the song of the day was “Against the Wind” by Bob Seger. Felt appropriate.
 

After a windy but restful night, we woke to grand views and the realization that we were truly doing the thing. We were on the trip we had imagined for so long. A delicious breakfast and a strong cup of coffee later, we were ready to hit the trail.

Today began with another traverse along the Paine River, winding through the trees while doing our best to avoid the ever-present branches aimed directly at our eyes, courtesy of that bastard walking just ahead. Eventually, an uphill stretch appeared to wake up the lungs and legs. We welcomed it, even if no one was quite ready to admit that out loud. That’s part of why we do this. Yes, the views are incredible, but earning them through effort makes them that much sweeter.

That climb marks one of the best moments of the day. Somewhere along the way, we cross an invisible threshold, leaving behind the savannah-like terrain and stepping into the Patagonia we all pictured. Sharp peaks rise above us, glaciers cascade down their flanks, and lakes glow with that unmistakable milky blue. The scene is made even better by the outstanding weather we’ve been lucky enough to enjoy so far.

Tonight, we rest at Dickson, my personal favorite camp of the trip. It sits beside a glacial lake fed by the meltwater of the Dickson Glacier. With a bit of luck tomorrow morning, everyone will get to see the glacier in its full grandeur as we walk along the lakeshore after breakfast. It should be quite the treat.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Thursday, February 5, 2926

Here we are, rest day at base camp.

This morning we lingered at breakfast, another cup of coffee, another cup of tea. We covered an impressive range of topics: public healthcare, data analysis, the influence of AI, and the origins of acetaas it relates to acetaminophen and acetazolamide (Diamox). This naturally led to the balsamic vinegar on the table and the discovery that aceta in Spanish and in pharmaceuticals means… vinegar.

From there, the conversation drifted to how we all ended up in the mountains. What they mean to us. On paper, we couldn’t be more different. But there was so much overlap in our stories, the braids of humanity connecting all these very different people trying this one very hard thing.

One hour turned into another and soon (as it always does) we found ourselves talking about the forecast. Summit chances. Strategy. The great obsession.

What we landed on was this: we are doing everything in our power to be ready if the mountain gives us the opportunity. We’re addressing small things early. We’re getting calories in. We’re resting. We’re keeping our minds steady through the unknowns and emotional whiplash of expedition life.

What we cannot control is the mountain. 

The weather. 

The great winds.

With high winds now and more in the forecast — we’ve decided to hold steady at base camp another day. So tomorrow, we rest again. 

We take care of ourselves as much as we can in the hopes that the jet stream winds die down, in the hopes that we will get the chance to climb. And there is still definitely hope! Do we need things to go our way? Yes. Very much yes.

We will stay focused on the now, stay focused on the things we can control. And have a darn good time while we’re doing it. Tonight that looks like dinner and a round (or three) of Telephone Pictionary. Staying up a little later than planned. Laughing at the absurdity of it all. And tomorrow, we’ll do it all again. 

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Aconcagua team 

Thursday, February 5, 2026 - 8:32 pm PT

Puebla, Mexico a city founded in April 1531 was the location of the Cinco de Mayo battle where Mexican forces defeated the French on May 5, 1862 even though they were outnumbered two to one.  This is also the location where the 2026 RMI Mexican Volcano expedition team took its first day of rest after summiting volcano Ixta.  Puebla is a bustling city with beautiful churches, lots of shopping, and very kind locals.  Some of the RMI expedition team did sight seeing tours, some shopped for loved ones back home, and others just took it easy. 

Puebla is set up in a grid system so it’s easy to navigate.  Like everywhere else the team has been all the locals are excited to interact with the expedition team even know our Spanish is mediocre at best.  

During our evening in Puebla the team enjoyed a group dinner where we chatted about preparations for Orizaba and discussed how each other’s days went.  We also had the privilege to listen to live karaoke at the supper establishment.  

Highlights of Puebla, good rest, good people, and wonderful food! The expedition team is now physically and mentally ready for Orizaba.  Puebla is an absolute hidden gem of inland  Mexico.

RMI Climber Jason White

Day two in Ecuador and we are already tagging 15,000'! The teleferico (gondola) whisked us up to 13,000, and then we started the hike through the gently rolling highlands below Rucu Pichincha. Swirling clouds throughout the day kept us from getting our first views of Cayambe and Cotopaxi, but also kept the sun at bay and made for pleasant hiking temperatures. After an hour or so of hiking through the grasslands the gradient kicked up and we started to pick up elevation quickly, traversing exposed slopes around to the far side of the peak, where a short but fun scramble brought us to the summit of Rucu Pichincha at 15,407'. With overcast skies and rain in the forecast we were on the lookout for afternoon thunderstorms, but the team moved well and we made quick work of the descent before any rain drops could reach us. 

Now we're all back at Hotel Mercure to rest the legs, dry out our trail shoes and pack up to leave the big city tomorrow. The team is feeling strong, psyched and ready for Cayambe! 

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo