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RMI Expeditions Blog

Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Take a Rest Day At High Camp

After a couple hard days of climbing we took a rest day today to acclimatize and rest up for our summit bid tonight. Everyone is doing very well and as we put the final touches on packing and organizing the excitement is palpable. It has been a calm and sunny day with the beautiful south face of Alpamayo hanging above us.
That’s all for now.
More tomorrow after our summit bid

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo Team

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Mt.Elbrus: Grom & Team Meet in Moscow and Explore the Sites

Hello everyone - 
The team arrived yesterday after a tiring day of travel. As most of the team is still adjusting to the nearly 12 hour time change we kept things simple with a little round of introductions and a brief overview of the days ahead. We then took a short walk to get dinner at a nearby restaurant before turning in for the night.
Today we meet with our local tour guide, Victoria, and had a wonderful tour of the nearby Red Square and the Kremlin.  We visited several churches including the iconic St. Basil’s, plus a brief stop at the famous GUM, which is a high end shopping mall that sits across the Red Square from the Kremlin.
We’ve just returned from dinner and are getting packed up for tomorrow’s flight to the south which will get us closer to Mt. Elbrus.
Everyone is doing great and looking forward to heading to the mountains tomorrow.

That’s all for now.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

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Mt. Rainier: Van Deventer & Team Reach the Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb July 20 - 23 led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Megan Budge and Alex Halliday reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The team reported good climbing conditions and moderate temperatures and a beautiful morning on the mountain.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb team!

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Kilimanjaro: Okita & Team Climb Barranco Wall Arrive Karanga Camp

Our assault of the Barranco Wall was relentless and the team finally conquered its mighty face with no loss of limb or life. The same can’t be said for the poor, hapless porter who lost his load a third of the way up, which meant beating a hasty retreat down to the valley floor to retrieve it. Luckily, said porter was below us and not above, which might have been a whole other story.
The climbing up that part of our climb today was fun and exciting, but we were all humbled as we watched the porters scaling the same terrain with forty pound loads balanced on their heads or shoulders, and arriving to camp two plus hours before us.
The rest of the route undulated into and out of valleys, always under the shadow of the steep flanks of the upper mountain. We ended up only a little higher than our previous camp, so everyone’s feeling strong and we’re all becoming well acclimatized.
After arriving to camp and ‘washing up’ another incredible lunch was served: schnitzel with warm German potato salad, followed by apple pancakes and banana fritters. Wow!!!
While in our dining tent the clouds finally unleashed a little rain. We’ve been so fortunate with the weather so far, that this little precipitation has not dampened anyone’s spirits. And now, after thirty minutes of wetness, it has abated.
We’re all comfortably sheltered in either our personal tents or the mess tent playing cards, so not really affected by the vagaries of the weather. Quite nice.
Until tomorrow, we’ll try to suffer on. Wish us luck.

RMI Guide Brent Okita

On The Map

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Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Ascend to High Camp

After a tough day the team is chilling at high camp, tired but very happy. We woke up early this morning to beat the heat on the glacier, though inevitably it caught us. Slow and steady was the name of the game as we pushed into the 17,000 foot world. After a couple hours on the lower glacier we got the the steep steps leading to the Col. Two pitches of steep ice and snow, with full packs, put us on the Col and looking right at the impressive south face of Alpamayo. Another two minute stroll brought us to our high camp. Once we had tents set up everyone settled in to get out of the sun and catch a few zzz’s before dinner. Despite being tired the team is happy, healthy and excited for our climb. We will take a full rest day tomorrow so we can make our summit bid with all our reserves roped off.
That’s all for now.
Thanks for staying with us throughout this incredible adventure

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

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Send it guys!

Posted by: Elias on 7/23/2017 at 11:50 am

Mt. Shuksan: Gately & Team Summit via Fisher Chimeys

RMI Guide Steve Gately called from the summit of Mt. Shuksan this afternoon. The team delayed their start this morning due to rain and poor visibility.  Once the rain dissipated they left camp in hopes the visibility would improve.  Their patience was rewarded and they were able to reach the summit via the Fisher’s Chimney route.  The team will return to camp today for a final night on the mountain.  Tomorrow they will descend to the trail head and conclude their program.

Congratulations to today’s Mt. Shuksan climbers!

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Kilimanjaro: Okita & Team Set New Altitude Record for Most

Our longest day yet saw us climbing to a high point of 15,200’, an altitude record for most of us. Thankfully, ours was a gradual ascent of the Shira Plateau until Lava Tower (15,200’), which made our progress a little easier than it could have been.
Dropping 2,000ft to Barranco Camp at 13,000ft is allowing us to feel pretty darned good here at camp and giving us a perfect acclimatization program.
Upon walking into camp our mountain staff greeted us with a couple of wonderful folk songs. Not only are they talented singers, but most notably, everyone is incredibly nice, generous and they all bend over backwards to make us feel welcome.
The challenge for our group, and all climbers here, is to just deal with the altitude and keep from getting a gut bug. So far so good. ‘Pole pole’ is the oft heard refrain in Swahili reminding the world, or at least the folks climbing Kili to ‘go slowly.’ And that we are, to great effect.
To say that this is an outgoing and social group would be an understatement, but perhaps that can be expected since we’re all family. It’s fun hearing the roars of laughter coming from the mess tent as folks play a round of cards before turning in for the night.
Tomorrow, the Barranco Wall, a steep one and a half hour climb that should be fun and exciting for us. Not technical, but the steepest climb we’ve done yet.
It’ll be a shame leaving the Barranco Valley, with its steep walls hanging spectacularly above camp, but on we climb towards the summit.
Next up, the Karanga valley.

Good night,
RMI Guide Brent Okita

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

It’s great to hear from ye each day and delighted ye are doing so well. It wouldn’t be Okita’s et al without riotous card games. Love to all O’Riordan’s hollyhill

Posted by: Ber and des oriordan on 7/23/2017 at 6:18 am

Brian and I are at Mom’s and reading your updates.  Sounds like an amazing climb so far. We love all of you!

Posted by: Carin Parella on 7/22/2017 at 12:00 pm

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on Top!

RMI Guides Kel Rossiter and Mike Uchal led their Four Day Summit Climb teams for July 19 - 22 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They reported moderate winds and mostly clear skies.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

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I am recommending this trip for my friends who love the outdoors like I do. I wouldn’t have wanted any other guide! Thank you Mike for the like time experience and making all of us feel safe the whole time. I am wishing I was still in the mountains! I’m surprised. Maybe not the boots though lol.

Posted by: Sarah Klenke on 7/23/2017 at 5:14 pm

Congratulations Susan and well done!  Can’t wait to hear all about it.

Posted by: Marianne and Dave Wood on 7/23/2017 at 7:55 am

Mt. Elbrus: Gorum & Team Reach the Summit of Europe’s Highest Peak

Hey, this is JM Gorum checking from Mt. Elbrus. We are not on the summit right now but we were a few hours ago.  The team summited around 9 am local time.  It was pretty windy up there so we didn’t hang out for too long. Thankfully it was also quite warm, but now we’re almost back down to the huts.  The team did an excellent job. We are planning to go all the way back down to Cheget today.  We will check in later and let you know how that goes. The team says says hi to everyone at home.

RMI Guide JM Gorum

RMI Guide JM Gorum calls in after reaching the summit of Mt. Elbrus.

On The Map

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Yayyyy!  Congratulations!  We’ve loved “following” you.  see you in August!  A&V

Posted by: Vicky and Armen on 7/23/2017 at 1:13 pm

Carol and Craig, Congratulations!  Mission accomplished!  Best wished for a safe trip down.  Kay

Posted by: Kay Nims on 7/23/2017 at 12:46 pm

Alpamayo: Schellens & Team Ascend to Moraine Camp

Good evening from Moraine Camp.
The Alpamayo team woke this morning to lots of coffee and a delicious breakfast, as per usual at Base Camp. After breakfast we spent the morning packing and discussing various gear options. Today was another beautiful sunny day so after we were packed we lounged in the sun and read our books until lunch time. Finally after lunch we decided we aught to do a little work so we shouldered our packs and started the hike to Moraine Camp. Despite it being sunny a slight breeze kept the afternoon hike very comfortable. By late afternoon we were settling in, enjoying the views, and sipping tea.
Tomorrow we will rise early and hit the glacier leading us up to the Col and then High Camp.

Thanks for following along with us,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team

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