Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Cache Some Gear Higher on the Mountain

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann, Chase Nelson | May 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'

Saturday, May 30th 2:45 am PDT

Hello all! We have our gear and groceries moved up to 10,000 feet. Life is good out on the glacier for our team. Today the high pressure over the area made for very hot conditions in the low altitudes so we delayed our departure until the heat subsided late this afternoon. We are doing our best to save energy and avoid getting cooked like lobsters from the sun.

Our plan worked great and after a number of hours working our way to the cache site, we quickly dug a large hole to store our gear until after we move the camp up to 11,000 feet. On our descent we enjoyed fabulous evening light while carrying our sled like a turtle shell strapped on our backs. Hot soup and a meal warmed our souls as we settle in for the night.

Tomorrow evening if the hot and blue-bird weather continues, we will try to move up to our second camp and gain some acclimatization over the next few days. Stay tuned and we’ll have a report when more progress has been made!

RMI Guide Tyler Jones

 

View of Mount McKinley 11,200' Camp from lower on the mountain. Photo: Chris Villar

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: May 30th Summit!

Posted by: JJ Justman, Sean Collon, Lance Colley, Katrina Bloemsma | May 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Mount Rainier Summit Climb team led by JJ Justman topped out on Columbia Crest at about 7:30 this morning. JJ reported great weather and light winds of about 15 – 20 mph.  After spending some time on the summit, the team began their descent about 8:20 a.m.

Congratulations summit team!

An RMI team on their Mount Rainier summit bid. Photo: JJ Justman

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Check Out the Edge of the World

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt, Andy Hildebrand | May 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, May 29th 11:00 pm PDT

Expedition life lends itself to improvisation and today gave us the perfect opportunity to think on our feet. Our original plan was to carry a load of group gear to the top of the fixed lines at 16,500’ and rest a full day tomorrow. However, a strong high pressure system moved over the mountain, opening the gates to the upper mountain for all of the other teams that have been stuck at 14,000’ for days. As a result, camp was extremely active today as well over a hundred climbers woke up early and began a move to high camp. The fixed lines were jammed up all day with climbers, and rather than wait in that line ourselves, our team formulated a new plan.

Today became our rest day. We relaxed in the beautiful weather at camp and took an afternoon stroll to the Edge of the World. Guides Adam and Andy, studs that they are, completed the high cache on their own in the evening once the fixed lines cleared up from the folks that were moving up. Our goal tomorrow is to pack up camp early, and move ahead to high camp, putting ourselves in the perfect position to attempt a summit bid in the next few days while the good weather lasts.

The team is in high spirits and feeling strong! Goodnight!

RMI Guide Nick Hunt and the rest of the team

Expansive views from the Edge of the World, Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

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1

Awesome guides! Good luck on the summit bid!

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Posted by: Jessie on 5/30/2015 at 9:37 am


Mt. McKinley: Pete Van Deventer & Team Ready for Summit Bid

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Friday, May 29th 10:30 pm PDT

All according to plan! We woke up early this morning, packed everything up, left a bit of food and fuel in a hole at 14K, and headed up the fixed lines. We had another brilliant, sunny, calm day on the West Buttress, and were in camp at 17K by mid afternoon. A couple of hours of work leveling tent sites and building walls got us set to be here. The forecast looks good for tomorrow, so we intend to head for the summit in the morning. We’ll hope to be reporting success tomorrow evening! But now, to bed so that we’re ready to go.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

An RMI climbing team at the top of the fixed lines. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

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1

Yay!!! That’s great news!!! How exciting to finally get there. I hope all goes well weather wise for y’all. Thinking about you Matt. I miss your face

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Posted by: Kate on 5/30/2015 at 9:00 am


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Begin Their Summit Push

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas | May 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Friday, May 29th 7:00 pm PDT

We woke early to perfect weather, packed up camp and headed to 17K. We have a good forecast and hope to summit tomorrow. We’ll be in touch as our summit bid progresses.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Climbers on the ridge to 17,200' Denali Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

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1

You have been so disciplined and patient.  Delighted it has paid off. Go for it and good luck.

Art Muir

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Posted by: Art Muir on 5/30/2015 at 8:22 am


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Prepares in Talkeetna

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank | May 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

Friday, May 29th 12:52pm PDT

Today the UWR (Upper West Rib) McKinley team is scurrying around getting all of our gear dialed for the glacier. Planes are landing and taking off every few minutes, which keeps us motivated to stay on our tasks. Line by line we are crossing off our check lists, and the piles of food and gear are growing to epic proportions.

The weather is stable right now, and it looks promising that we will fly on tomorrow.

Thanks for following along. We’ll update everyone from the glacier!

RMI Guides Eric Frank and Geoff Schellens and team

The view of the Alaska Range from Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank RMI Guide Geoff Schellens with the May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank The RMI May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team sorting their gear in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank The food is ready to load into duffels for the RMI May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team. Photo: Eric Frank

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5

Hey Pete.  You and the team are looking’ good, but like people here keep asking me, “Who’s going to carry all your stuff?” 

Hah!

Good luck on the weather… read more

Posted by: Art Muir on 5/30/2015 at 8:33 am

Hi Aunt Kim!!! Have an amazing trip- be safe and have lotsi of fun!!! Bring me back some snow- love you!!!! Sophia (and mommy/daddy)

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Posted by: Sophia Rose & co on 5/30/2015 at 5:44 am


Mt. McKinley: Knoff and Team Back Carry from 14,200’ Camp

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt, Andy Hildebrand | May 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 29, 2015 10:41am PST

As the sun hit our tent we woke up ready for our back carry to above windy corner. We could hear the wind in the distance scouring the buttress above us. But here at camp it was calm and brisk. Since we worked hard on our move to 14 camp and our back carry would only take a few hours, we opted for a relaxing morning before our work had to be done. After lounging in the posh till late morning we geared up and retrieved our cashed equipment and food.
 
When we got back it was only mid afternoon, so the next task was to fortify camp with walls in case the wind decided to give us trouble. Little did we know that our team consisted of Egyptian craftsman. In no time or camp was secure.With much of the day left we took a solid break and made some fresh coffee, which is a real amenity up here.  After being properly caffeinated we practice fixed line travel which will be a well needed review before cashing at 16,200.
 
We are feeling good and are putting ourselves in a position to head higher on the mountain. With a little more acclimation and calm weather we will be ready for high camp and a bid at the summit. We are all very excited.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff & Team

Windy Corner on Mt. McKinley. Photo: Brent Okita

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3

I think I know who one of those Egyptian craftsmen is!

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Posted by: Jessie on 5/29/2015 at 8:58 pm

Enjoy the moment.  Following each blog and the breathtaking photos.  Much love

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Posted by: Carolyn Walllgren on 5/29/2015 at 4:48 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team take a Well Earned Rest Day

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 28, 2015 11:34pm PST

After a big day yesterday, we took it easy today to rest up for a forthcoming summit push. We woke late and enjoyed a breakfast of eggs, bacon; and hash browns which stretched into afternoon. A few hours of sorting gear, napping, and reading led into a dinner of quesadillas. Unfortunately, the meat department may be getting low… From here on out its freeze dried dinners, ramen, and oatmeal. With that in mind we savored the fresh food, and wrapped up small details for tomorrow. Everything seems to be lining up for us to move to high camp tomorrow. We’ll wake early, beat the sun out of camp, and take our second stroll along the West Buttress. Everybody is excited and fired up.

Keep your fingers crossed for us!

RMI Guides
Pete, Josh, Robby, and Team

An RMI Dining tent on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection

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6

Hi Renee and Team,
I’m so excited for you all, what an amazing journey!!
Looking forward to more news and I am so proud of you Renee.read more

Posted by: ARNA TELFORD on 5/30/2015 at 12:01 am

Good luck team Pete !!! Can’t wait for your next post.
Matt sounds like you are having awesome weather we all hope it keeps up for your last… read more

Posted by: Terri on 5/29/2015 at 5:53 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team on the Mountain

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann, Chase Nelson | May 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'

Thursday, May 28th 10:37 pm PDT

We woke up this morning to blue skies in Talkeetna, which meant great weather for flying! After a meal at the roadhouse we scurried over to hangar to transition from Talkeetna street walkers to Denali climbers. With climbing boots on and smiles on our faces we enjoyed a great flight onto the mountain.
Once we arrived at Basecamp the team was highly efficient organizing their gear. After a minimal amount of time at Basecamp we embarked on our journey up the Kahiltna Glacier. Several hours later we arrived at our camp for the night at 7,800’. The team immediately set up tents to shade themselves from sun and nestled in. After a delicious meal of Annie’s Mac and cheese we hunkered down for the night.

We will check in again tomorrow night after another day of good work.

RMI Guide Tyler Jones

A view from the flight into Mt. McKinley's Basecamp. Photo: RMI Collection

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5

Thinking of you as you and the team.  Have a safe day on your way to the summit. ...mom

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Posted by: Caroline Clayton on 5/30/2015 at 7:59 am

good morning Brenda, no update from Tyler so I imagine your climbing for the day was tiring.hope all went well and you got a good nights sleep

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Posted by: Richard Larscheid on 5/30/2015 at 5:10 am


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Starts Their Expedition

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank | May 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

The Upper West Rib team assembled today at the Anchorage airport and started our journey north to Talkeetna. All of us are excited to have the trip underway. We have lots of logistics and preparing to take care of, but that will start tomorrow. Tonight we are going to get settled into our hotel, have some dinner, and relax. That’s all for now, thank you for following along with us as our adventure begins. 

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Mt. McKinley, 20,320'. Highest Point in North America. Photo: Bradford Washburn

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1

Very cool! Can’t wait for the updates!

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Posted by: Mike b on 5/29/2015 at 12:14 pm


More Entries

Expedition Stats

Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/8 - 3/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Mexico's Volcanoes
3/7 - 3/15/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - 15,300' / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/22 - 3/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - 10,080'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/2 - 5/12/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/9 - 5/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - 13,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/17 - 5/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine
5/8 - 5/18/2015
The Munchkin - Summit / The Throne - Lost Marsupial - Summit / Big Arapiles - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/22 - 5/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/14 - 5/24/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/24 - 5/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit

Recent Images

  • View of Mount McKinley 11,200' Camp from lower on the mountain. Photo: Chris Villar
  • An RMI team on their Mount Rainier summit bid. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Expansive views from the Edge of the World, Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI climbing team at the top of the fixed lines. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers on the ridge to 17,200' Denali Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The view of the Alaska Range from Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank
  • RMI Guide Geoff Schellens with the May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank
  • The RMI May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team sorting their gear in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank
  • The food is ready to load into duffels for the RMI May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team. Photo: Eric Frank
  • Windy Corner on Mt. McKinley. Photo: Brent Okita
  • An RMI Dining tent on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • A view from the flight into Mt. McKinley's Basecamp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Mt. McKinley, 20,320'. Highest Point in North America. Photo: Bradford Washburn
  • Looking through camp walls at Mt. McKinley's 14,200' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI May 26th McKinley team sorting gear in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • RMI Guide Tyler Jones sorting gear in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The RMI May 26th McKinley team ready to fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Looking up at the West Buttress on Mt. McKinley, AK from 14 Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Looking up toward Windy Corner en route to 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Colleciton
  • Seminar Climbers en route to Camp Muir on May 25.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • The Expeditions Skills Seminar - Muir team on the summit of Mt. Rainier May 28th.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • Enjoying the sunrise from Camp Muir during the Seminar.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • Looking out over the Edge of the World from 14,000 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The view from the Edge of the World.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley, with Kahiltna Dome in the cloudy distance.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers below Windy Corner on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team approaching 14,000 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection