Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Spend Day Training

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 04, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

Greetings!

We’re ready for our next objective, Nevado Urus. We all appreciated a rest day today, after yesterday’s summit on Ishinca. We spent the day learning and practicing rappelling as well as fixed line ascension in the vicinity of base camp. We also had a thorough discussion regarding expedition planning. Now we’re packing for tomorrow’s alpine start, hoping to tackle Nevado Urus before the forecasted weather pattern hits - grapple to snow in the mid-afternoon. That’s it for now!

Wish us luck tomorrow,
RMI Guide Elías and team

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Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Walter & Team Visit the Otavalo Market

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 04, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador
Elevation: 15,300'

After a relaxing evening at Casa Sol, this morning finds us in the indigenous center of Otavalo. We’re spending a few hours strolling the streets and exploring the bustling Saturday market. Saturdays here are a sensory overload of sights, smells, and sounds, as the market is loaded with handmade crafts, jewelry, woven goods, art, and more. Delicious aromas from all of the restaurants and food vendors fill the air.

After lunch we’ll head up to the Cayambe Climbers’ Hut, where we’ll spend the next two nights. It will be our first stint at sleeping up high, above 15,000’.

The plan is to go out to the toe of the glacier tomorrow to review climbing techniques, such as cramponing and self arrest with the ice axe. We’ll retire early tomorrow night in preparation for our alpine start and summit attempt of Cayambe, Ecuador’s third highest mountain at nearly 19,000’.

Thanks for following our adventures. We’ll touch base again tomorrow from up at the hut.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

An art vendor at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter A produce stall at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter Locals perusing stalls at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Summit!

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | July 04, 2015
Categories:
Elevation: 20,320'

Hey, it is Billy here just checking in after a safe and successful summit bid.  We got up, kind of stalled a little bit because it was a cold morning.  We left around 10 pm, it took us about 12 1/2 hours round trip.  We were super psyched. So we’re back in camp, and like I said before everyone is safe and sound. Now we’re just hoping for good weather to beat feet for the airport.  That’s all I have for now.  We are going to eat dinner and get some sleep.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Climbers on the summit ridge of Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Dave Hahn The view from the summit of Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection


RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls from High Camp on Denali after a successful summit bid.

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17

incredible Kevin “Cayman”....Congratulations to one and all, Mountains seem to answer an increasing imaginative need In us. More and more people are discovering a desire for them, and a powerful… read more

Posted by: Sven on 7/4/2015 at 1:08 pm

Way to go, Charlie and Art! You are monsters!! It’s all downhill from here on. Safe travels home.

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Posted by: Bob Ryan on 7/4/2015 at 12:46 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Move to 14,000 Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall | July 04, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

July 4, 2015 1:11 am PST

This was the day.  The weather was a whole lot better than the last few days, but it wasn’t perfect.  A little blustery.  We needed to take advantage though to get out of 11,000’  and up to 14,000’ Camp.  Even having had a handful of teams break trail on the route before we made our effort today, we still anticipated a tough haul with knee deep snow on such steep hills.  Motorcycle took longer than normal, Squirrel took longer, the Polo Fields went on forever, Windy Corner was windy (and it took longer).  It was all pretty tough going until we got around the corner and reached our cache location from the other day.  Finally there was less new snow, less wind and a decent track to follow.  It was still uphill though.  It took us 8.5 hours to cover what should have taken 6 hours, but what a wonderful feeling to roll into 14 Camp after thinking of it so much when we were stuck down below.  We’ve got different and magnificent views now, of Denali, but also of Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter and about a thousand other peaks when the clouds allow.  We did a late dinner after camp was built and then hurried in to the tents for the night.  It is colder up here, and colder still when the sun goes behind the mountain.  Everybody deserves good rest after such a big day. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Climbers on the top of Motorcyle Hill at 11,600 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection

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7

go dad (peter) go! mom and I send you love from georgetown!

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Posted by: Blythe Thomas on 7/4/2015 at 2:19 pm

Happy 4th.  I don’t know much about this type of adventure, but it seems like if you are trying to get to the top, getting closer to the top is… read more

Posted by: Mike Gorum on 7/4/2015 at 1:14 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Summit!

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JJ Justman | July 04, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early today.  Both teams were beginning their descent from the crater rim around 6:30 am.  RMI Guide JJ Justman reported clear skies and warm temperatures. They will make a short stop at Camp Muir before continuing down to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climbs teams!  Happy Independence Day!

Climbers approaching the summit of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Seth Waterfall

Peru Seminar: The Team Summits Ishinca!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

¡Buenas tardes! The team is back at Basecamp after a great, successful day on 18,143ft Ishinca. Everyone climbed well up the southeast glacier, which provided a steep, yet sun-cupped summit ridge. An early summit allowed us to descend via the southweat side, completing an up and over traverse of the mountain; extra credit for everyone! We’re now looking forward to an active rest day tomorrow, keeping an eye on the weather as our beautiful summit day turned into a dust of unexpected snow at Basecamp this evening.

Best regards from Perú!

RMI Guides Elías de Andres Martos, Robby Young and team

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2

Thank you team leaders Elias and Robby, sounds like a great beginning for all!!

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Posted by: Laura Voisinet on 7/4/2015 at 3:41 pm

Congrats Robby and team!  Living vicariously through these posts. What an adventure. Greetings from sunny Traverse City fourth of July morning. Safe travels On descent.

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Posted by: Victoria Sutherland on 7/4/2015 at 4:48 am


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Walter & Team Enjoy the Views Atop Fuya Fuya

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador
Elevation: 13,986'

We packed our bags and left the hustle and bustle of Quito behind this morning, driving north towards the town of Otavalo for our next acclimatization climb. Along the way we had great views of Cotopaxi and Cayambe, the second and third highest peaks in Ecuador, respectively, and our major climbing objectives on this trip.

As for our objective for today, we climbed the ancient volcano Fuya Fuya. The weather couldn’t have been nicer as we summited the 14,000’ peak in t-shirts. On top we had great views of Cayambe, Cotopaxi, and even the top of the ever elusive Antisana, the fourth highest peak in Ecuador.

Our team did great on the climb today, negotiating steep terrain and a little rock scramble. Now we’re at our hacienda, Casa Sol, for the night where a shower, dinner, and a cerveza are on our to do list. After a good night’s rest tonight we’ll head to the famous Otavalo Market in the morning and then up to the climbers hut in the afternoon.

I’ll check in again mañana.
RMI Guide Mike Walter

The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Fuya Fuya with Cayambe in the distance. Photo: Mike Walter The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending a 3rd class ridge on Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter Cayambe as seen from the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter

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Forbidden Peak: Davis & Team Summit!

Posted by: Leon Davis, Sid Pattison | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 8,630'

RMI Guides Leon Davis and Sid Pattison led their team to the summit of Forbidden Peak via the West Ridge today. Leon reported great but hot weather during the climb. They also enjoyed a quiet route with only one other party climbing today.

Congratulations to our North Cascades climbers!

The East and West Ridges of Forbidden Peak as seen from Sharkfin Tower in the North Cascades, WA. Photo: Kristina Weller

Mt. McKinley: Smoke & Snow for Hahn & Team at 11,200’

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

The wind and snow conspired to make for a tough and noisy night in the tents last night.  A few intrepid souls got out in the storm to dig away the encroaching drifts.  Morning brought less wind, but the snow continued as the guides served breakfast in bed.  It was slightly surreal to have the strong smell of forest fire smoke mixed in with heavily falling snow while camped so far from trees.  Eventually the snow slowed and then stopped, but by that point, several feet of it had accumulated.  The clouds stayed right in on us until about 8 in the evening.  We were enjoying an open air dinner when the mist fell away, the sun came out and everything got beautiful.  The team stayed out well into the evening, staring at Kahiltna Dome, Mount Foraker and Denali’s West Buttress.  Our prospects for going up in the morning were improved as we watched several teams come down Motorcycle Hill, plowing a trail and cutting whatever tension the otherwise suspect snow-pack was under.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team

11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK with Kahiltna Dome in the distance. Photo: RMI Collection

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4

Hey, Rob,

Aunt Carol & Uncle Richard got your postcard.  Their thoughts and prayers are with you and your team.  Stay Safe.  Love Aunt Carol and Uncle Richard.

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Posted by: Mary Ahlbrand on 7/3/2015 at 5:31 pm

Go Team Hahn!  Safe travels and hoping your weather turns.  Mine certainly hasn’t.  Can’t fly anywhere north of here without serious thunder.  We are cheering every second that you get… read more

Posted by: Mike Gorum on 7/3/2015 at 12:12 pm


Mt. Rainier: July 3rd Summit!

Posted by: Win Whittaker, Casey Grom | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Casey Grom led the Four Day Summit Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Win and Casey reported beautiful weather and a great route. We look forward to seeing the teams back in Ashford this afternoon.

Congratulations climbers!

The RMI July 3rd Four Day Summit Climb team enroute to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker Sunrise on the Upper Mountain of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
1

Congratulations to the team, and a special shout out to Charlie Schwartz, our nephew!

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Posted by: Vicky Lockwood on 7/3/2015 at 5:34 pm


More Entries

Expedition Stats

Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/2 - 5/12/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/9 - 5/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - 13,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/17 - 5/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine
5/8 - 5/18/2015
The Munchkin - Summit / The Throne - Lost Marsupial - Summit / Big Arapiles - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/22 - 5/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/14 - 5/24/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/24 - 5/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/30/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/28 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/29 - 6/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/5 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/12 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/31 - 6/5/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/3 - 6/6/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/7/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/5 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/6 - 6/9/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/19 - 6/7/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/5 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/7 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/8 - 6/11/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/9 - 6/12/2015
Mt. Rainier - 14,410'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/10 - 6/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/14/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/12 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/12 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/14 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/15 - 6/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/14 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/16 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/17 - 6/20/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/18 - 6/21/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/26 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mt. McKinley Upper West Rib Expedition
5/28 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/20 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/21 - 6/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/22 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/20 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/2 - 6/21/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/23 - 6/26/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/24 - 6/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mt. Baker - North Ridge
6/22 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Baker - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
6/22 - 6/27/2015
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/28/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/26 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,400'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/27 - 6/30/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/28 - 7/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/26 - 7/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/29 - 7/2/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Emmons Climb
6/29 - 7/3/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/30 - 7/3/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mt. Baker - North Ridge
6/26 - 6/28/2015
Mt. Baker - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/9 - 6/28/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit

Recent Images

  • An art vendor at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • A produce stall at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Locals perusing stalls at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Climbers on the summit ridge of Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The view from the summit of Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers on the top of Motorcyle Hill at 11,600 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers approaching the summit of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Fuya Fuya with Cayambe in the distance. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending a 3rd class ridge on Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Cayambe as seen from the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The East and West Ridges of Forbidden Peak as seen from Sharkfin Tower in the North Cascades, WA. Photo: Kristina Weller
  • 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK with Kahiltna Dome in the distance. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI July 3rd Four Day Summit Climb team enroute to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • Sunrise on the Upper Mountain of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • An RMI team building walls at high camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Stormy conditions at 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climber ascending the Autobahn on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • An RMI Team at Base Camp in the Ishinca Valley, Peru.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Mike Walter and Team checking out the Equator. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The Peru Seminar team before leaving Huaraz. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • RMI Camp at 17,200' on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Fresh Snow at 11,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • An RMI team on Squirrel Hill, Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Brent Okita