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RMI Expeditions Blog


Shishapangma: Elias & Team Prepare for Their Second Rotation

Comedian Mitch Hedberg once said during a comedy skit, “I just want to be a mountain climber so I can wear brightly colored clothes, hang out at Base Camp, and drink hot cocoa.” Today, for the second day in a row, we harnessed our inner Hedberg, and did just that. Our last rest day before the start of our second rotation onto the upper slopes of Shishapangma was filled with nourishment of all forms, and plenty of rest. Some of us practiced our favorite base camp activity, “sport eating.” Others took competitive napping to the next level. While another team member continued his rein as supreme cribbage champion of Shishapangma 2016. Regardless of our chosen rest day activities, we all did the best we could to prepare our bodies and our minds for what lies ahead. Our second rotation begins tomorrow with a move to Depot Camp, followed by a return to Camp 1 at 20,000’, and finally up to Camp 2 near 22,000’ by the end of the work week.  We’re all feeling great, looking good, and ready for the upcoming challenge here on the 14th highest mountain in the world. We’ll check in tomorrow from Depot Camp.

RMI Guides Robby, Elias, Adam, and the Shishapangma Team

Sandra,  best efforts there on the mountain.
Jim W.

Posted by: Jim Wilder on 9/20/2016 at 9:20 am

Good to hear everyone is rested, but no doubt when this is read that recuperation will be a dim memory! Be strong on the way to Camp 2 and be well. We’ll eagerly await tomorrow’s update!

Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/20/2016 at 5:35 am


Mt. Rainier: Teams Turn Due to Weather and Route Conditions

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams turned due to avalanche conditions, deteriorating weather and winds.  A fair amount of new snow has occurred on the mountain with drifts up to one meter.  RMI Guides Casey Grom and Nick Hunt are currently descending from Camp Muir back to Paradise.

Better Weatherluck Next Time!

Posted by: Stan Mikol on 9/22/2016 at 1:47 am

We both would like to thank the entire RMI team for your help throughout the climb in the challenging conditions and we feel that we have learned more from those few days with you than any other experience. We also loved hearing about your various climbs.

We had a great time meeting the rest of the climbers and sharing stories. Best of luck in their next endeavors!

We hope to be back next summer with better conditions and even more prepared. It’s defnitely not to be underestimated.

Thanks again
Kelly & Kieran

Posted by: Kelly and Kieran on 9/20/2016 at 10:17 am


Shishapangma: Elias & Team Enjoy a Well-Deserved Rest Day

Last night at 6:30 in the evening, Team Shishapangma was still on the move, descending a barely visible trail etched into the ancient glacial moraine by only a few dozen boots going up and down with hopes of establishing camps on the higher slopes of this snowy mass.  Clearly this footpath changes each year after the passing of the monsoon rains so we were again proven how generous and selfless our Sherpa team is when Furba and Pemba Sherpa met us more than two miles from camp with warm drinks and happy smiles.  We had been away from base camp for more than three days and they were eager to greet us.  The remaining walk was in the dark guessing where the trail led which our Sherpas, with most things mountain related, were better at than us.  We devoured dinner and shortly after sleep devoured us. 
This morning, Sunday the 18th of September greeted us like most others have.  The sun hits us at 7:30, the sounds of Aital and Purna our righteous cooks firing up the kitchen, echoing off the rocky hillside behind us, our neighbor’s camp coming to life.  But these common place things are now accompanied by a new set of sounds.  A chorus of coughs, hacks, and other phlegm related guttural noises are reminding us constantly how the unforgiving altitude we are living at is tightening its grip.  Life at base camp is the best we have but at 18,500 feet it is still a challenge.  So we were all grateful that today the most difficult thing we needed to do was drink coffee, clean some clothes, and listen to the Mark Wilkins school of business. 
Rest days are quickly becoming a hard earned and well deserved reward.  The rotations coming up are only going to get higher, colder and longer so we will enjoy base camp as much as we can.  Everyone is dreaming of home and wishing all following along lots of love.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

I look forward to these updates every night. It puts a lot of things into perspective. Stella, Thor and I are with you in spirit and wishing you well.  XO, Trish

Posted by: Trish on 9/23/2016 at 5:09 pm

Talking to you last night (your morning) and hearing your raspy breath (and challenged breathing) made the elevation you are operating at very real and vivid. Hopefully the day of rest will allow some natural healing to take place in all of your struggling respiratory systems.
Your adventure makes my solo 3,904 mile drive to/from Bonneville seems pretty lame. BTW, I thought of you yesterday when I looked at a partly collapsed bottle of oil that I’d opened and resealed on the 4,200 ft. elevation of the flats. Can’t imagine 18,000+.

Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/19/2016 at 6:28 am


Shishapangma: Team Descends from Camp 1

Good evening from Base Camp!
We just returned from Camp 1, all the way into Shishapangma Base Camp. The day has been mellow by Himalayan standards, as the great distance to cover or the big elevations to save are just a part of the game that this team is facing with style.
We’re heading into bed, looking forward to a couple days of rest while we let our bodies adapt to the new elevation reached.

Suva Rattri!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Keep up the great work and progress. I hope everyone is feeling better and acclimating to the altitude. I wish I could see the beauty you wake up to everyday. Enjoy the gorgeous full moon! It must be spectacular from your location!
Xoxo, Trish

Posted by: Trish Deerwester on 9/18/2016 at 4:21 am

Continued success, congrats to all.  Safe travels and enjoyable rest.  Thinking of you each and every day. 
Jane Nelson

Posted by: Jane Knoff Nelson on 9/17/2016 at 6:13 pm


Mt. Rainier: Teams Unable to Summit Due to Weather

RMI Guides Brent Okita and Paul Rachelle were unable to make a summit attempt with their Four Day Summit Climb September 14 - 17 teams due to poor weather.  A large system moved into the area last night bringing heavy rains.  The teams are safe and dry at Camp Muir but will be starting down to Paradise later this morning.

We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp today and we hope they enjoy participating in the events of the Rainier Mountain Festival.


Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team Finish Their Safari

Early adventure through Tarangire as we made our way back to The Dik Dik Lodge. The team put a good dent In the waffle iron before we left the Kikoti property. It’s those little things that really make a difference out in the bush and a good waffle can set the tone for a fine finish to an amazing Safari. How appropriate to see our little mascot, the Dik Dik, just before leaving the park, a touching send off if you ask me. Some gear shuffle, a shower and one last delicious dinner here at the lodge before the team starts making their way home. A few will visit Zanzabar, others a stop in Amsterdam. Overall a feeling of accomplishment rounded out with a nice sense of connection to the basic elements of nature are packaged nicely for the travel abroad. Sad to have it come to a close, excited to start yet another chapter in the book of life soon!

RMI Guide Mark Tucker


Shishapangma: Elias and Team Check in from Camp 1

Namaste from Camp 1! A gelid evening is already in place here at 6,500m, but the warmth of our bags, the water boiled in the vestibule of the guides’ tent, and camaraderie around, are definitely bringing up the adventure temperature.

We had a long day climbing to here, as crossing the penitentes field is no joke; a super involved section that gains you no elevation but puts your endurance to the test. But we made it and now is time to go to bed, all while contemplating the summit, and in closer proximity, the location of Camp 2. “Suva Rattri”!!!

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and Team

Seeing the Harvest moon last night and again early this morning, I could not help but think what it must like for you all to see the sky at night. I am jealous, for sure. Save travels.

Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 9/17/2016 at 5:17 am

Seeing the beautiful Harvest moon last night and again early this morning, I could not help but think of what it must be like for you all to see the sky at night. I am jealous, for sure. Safe travels.

Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 9/17/2016 at 5:15 am


Mt. Shuksan:  Nugent & Team Summit the Sulphide Glacier Route

Today RMI Guide Billy Nugent and the Mt. Shuksan team reached the summit!  Climbing the Sulphide Glacier Route, the team’s round-trip was eight hours and 40 minutes.  The weather was sunny and not a breath of wind.  After returning to camp, safe and sound, Billy was able to send us the photo below.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Way to go Mac and Fraser boys!!  yahoo!

Posted by: Gary Lamberti on 9/21/2016 at 12:21 pm

WAY TO GO JOSH AND GROUP!! Proud of you big brother!! ❤️❤️

Posted by: Ali Arzt on 9/16/2016 at 12:57 pm


Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team Shop for Souvenirs & Enjoy Tented Camp

We had a few things to accomplish today so we set out early to shop the local markets.  We found masks, bowls, knives, salad forks, necklaces, paintings, carvings made of soapstone, bone, ebony and rosewood.  We also shopped for Tanzanite, the beautiful blue stone found only in this country. We visited a Masai village and took a grand tour of their community.  Then made a stop for treats and drinks to enjoy while we traveled along.  We entered Tarangire National Park and encountered a large herd of wildebeests. We took a break and enjoyed a picnic lunch in the bush followed by a pleasant afternoon of driving the roads of this amazing park looking for more animals.

Tonight is our last night in Africa and we get to spend it at the beautiful Kikoti Tented Camp.  I can hear some animals snorting just off my porch.  There is a bright moon illuminating the night, I think I’ll go check it out.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker


Mt. Rainier: Seminar Reaches the Summit!

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir reached the crater rim at 7:30 am. RMI Guide Mike King reported no wind, a great route and a beautiful morning!  With such amazing weather, the team stayed on the summit until 9:00 am and will check in once they are back to Camp Muir.  They will stay one more night at Camp Muir and descend from the mountain tomorrow.

Congrats everyone!! Really glad you had great weather! Have a safe descent!

Posted by: Kristina Boutilier on 9/15/2016 at 12:41 pm

Congrats Jas!!!! Can’t wait to see the GoPro!

Posted by: Rita Brown on 9/15/2016 at 10:33 am

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