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RMI Expeditions Blog


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Carry to 14,000’, Ready to Move

June 22, 2017
After having so much fun with our cache mission up to 14,000 feet and back, the team decided they want to do it again tomorrow. This time we will be moving up to make a new camp at 14,200. We hope that the weather tomorrow will be as lovely as today.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

The last picture was great.  More close ups!  When do you get to dump the sled?  Nice effort Marc, Tucker.

Posted by: Brenda Reid on 6/23/2017 at 1:40 pm


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz Summit!

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team led by RMI Guide Kel Rossiter climbed to the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Kautz route this morning.  The team has spent the week on the mountain training in various alpine climbing techniques. They will continue their training tomorrow before descending to Paradise in the late afternoon.

Congratulations to the Kautz team!

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Mt. Rainier: June 22nd Summit Climb Update

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Elias de Andres Martos climbed to 12,700’ this morning, but were forced to turn due to icy and firm route conditions. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.

Congratulations to today’s team!

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Mt. Elbrus: Reid & Team Enjoy Acclimatization Ski Tour

Today we awoke to blue skies above and beautiful views of the mountain, but as we set off on our acclimatization ski tour, the clouds followed us. We spent the majority of the day in minimal visibility - the Elbrus ping pong ball. Strong solar radiation made for uncomfortably warm temps, which combined with the whiteout was a challenge to our motivation. But we persevered, and climbed to the top of Pastukhova Rocks at 15,500’.

We “skied by braille” back down the route to our camp and were greeted by Dasha our cook with delicious soup and fried chicken. A very successful acclimatization ski, despite the clouds…

RMI Guide Tyler Reid

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yuck whiteout. I’m having a sangria in whistler for you. Hang in there sister good stuffs coming

Posted by: Barb crone on 6/22/2017 at 12:25 pm

marginally better than studying for Boards and grading?

enjoy

Posted by: Greg Barber on 6/22/2017 at 10:58 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Gearing up for Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 21, 2017
Good weather has finally hit Denali. The pressure is rising along with the temperatures….for now. We have had a good time at our 11k camp but it time to start moving up higher. Our plan is to do a carry up to 14,000 feet to cache some gear and then move up after a couple of days. If this weather holds, we will wake up early and hit the trail so we can get up to 14k before it gets too hot. Most people would think that being to hot would not be an issue while mountain climbing in Alaska, but it can be a real energy drain when the hot sun reflects off he snow like a solar oven.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team

On The Map

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Glo, I can only imagine the view from your front porch has to be spectacular and awe-inspiring! You and your fellow climbers are in our thoughts and prayers, be safe, love you, dad

Posted by: Dave Roe on 6/24/2017 at 9:44 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Ascend to 11,000’ Camp

June 21, 2017
It snowed a couple of inches overnight at 9500 ft but skies were clear by morning.  A cool breeze kept us in bed for a little while, but we were on the trail by 9:30 and making slow and steady progress toward the head of the Kahiltna Glacier.  We could almost see all of its forty-seven mile length stretched out below us as we turned East at Kahiltna Pass.  The cool breeze was nowhere to be found as we worked up steeper hills at midday.  We made it into 11,000 ft Camp at 1 PM and were happy to see our friends on Mike Haugen’s team.  They kindly helped to shovel tent sites for us and gave us some “starter water” to make us feel at home.  The day had turned out to be stunningly nice… Which is always a good thing on the solstice.  We gazed in wonder at the bright clean angular chunks of glacier hanging all around us and at the formidable rock of the NW and West Buttresses.  Camp went up smoothly and quickly and we crawled in the tents to beat the heat for a few hours.  Evening was a social whirl as guides and climbers from all over the world had reunions and wished each other well as they went in opposite directions.  We will take a much deserved rest day tomorrow and look forward to catching up on sleep, reading, and hydration. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Keep it going Jim! Thanks for the updates!

Posted by: Stephen Walker on 6/23/2017 at 4:28 pm

Awesome job!!! Thank you for the updates. Cheers and enjoy the rest day!!

Posted by: Chris on 6/23/2017 at 7:07 am


Mt. Elbrus: Reid & Team Take Some Turns on the Mountain

We finally got to ski on Mt. Elbrus today! We had a nice acclimatization tour up to 14,000’ in wintry snow conditions. All that rain down low has equaled nice snow quality up high, and aside from the altitude our turns felt effortless.

This morning we did the three gondola “duffel shuffle” - nothing like ski lifts for approaching High Camp (beats walking!). We’ve got ourselves nicely situated at our home here at 12,600’. Everyone is feeling good and in good spirits. We’re psyched to go a bit higher tomorrow..

RMI Guide Tyler Reid

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Summit Climb Team Turns at 13,800’

The Five Day Summit Climb June 17 - 21, 2017 led by RMI Guides Andy Bond, Joe Hoch and Nick Scott made their summit attempt today.  High winds and firm climbing conditions prevented the team from going above 13,800’.  The group has spent the last two nights at Camp Muir, they will return to pack their gear and continue their descent to Paradise.

We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today.

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Turned by High Winds

RMI Guide Ben Liken and the Four Day Summit Climb team June 17 - 21, 2017 made their summit attempt of Mt. Rainier this morning but were forced to turn around at 13,800’ due to high winds and icy conditions. The team is making their way back to Camp Muir where they will take a short break and re-pack their gear before continuing their descent to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Ascend to 9,500’

June 20, 2017
The alarm went off at 3 AM but we didn’t leave camp until close to noon.  Winds built as we ate breakfast and the thought of walking straight up into a cold and snowy down glacier breeze was unappealing.  We did what we often do in such circumstances… We dragged our feet and waited to see which way the weather might trend.  We got out our already packed sleeping bags and waited in the early morning shadows.  When the sun came out, we were still waiting.  By 11 things were not so different, but it wasn’t nearly as cold.  And so we packed up and made our move.  As is normal, the glacier was in far better condition as we worked up Ski Hill.  We had just a handful of easy crevasses to cross before we reached the stable ice up at 9500 ft.  We pulled into our unbuilt new home just before 4PM and got busy building.  Clouds had built up below us, overtaking our last camp and by evening we were in light snow from the clouds just up glacier, but we still had great views of Mts Foraker and Hunter to our South.  The team turned in at 8 PM.  Higher and happier with each passing day. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad to see all is going well out there.. keep chugging along!!!

Mr. Walker, Vegas Knights picked up Oscar Lindberg, tough loss but they are in really good shape still. I’ll keep you updated on the moves.

Good luck the rest of the way and soak it all in.

Chris

 

Posted by: Chris Calnan on 6/21/2017 at 7:10 pm

116 ha! Try 120 degrees and counting! Yeah Ken! I so wish I were there with your group enjoying much cooler climes! It must be beautiful beyond words! Hope you are taking loads of photos!
Climb on! Hugs~

Posted by: Joy on 6/21/2017 at 1:15 pm

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