Entries By brent okita

Another cloudy, snowy day greeted us this morning but didn’t stop us from pushing on. Typical of weather on the Kahiltna Glacier, there was enough new snow and poor visibility to make the going difficult, but certainly not enough to call it a storm day and relax in the tents.
Upon reaching camp at 11,200’ the sun broke through and we were treated to our first sunshine of the trip. What a nice welcome.
The sun sticks around late here, and we’ve enjoyed every bit of it, hanging out in the Posh for a couple hot drinks and sharing stories.
Tomorrow we look forward to our easiest day when we just need to retrieve the cache we buried at 10,000’.
The forecast calls for a little storm to brush by us tomorrow or the next day, but I don’t see any sign of that yet. If it does, we’ll just dig in and enjoy a rest day I guess.
Everyone’s climbing super well and in good spirits.
Good night from 11,200’.

RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt

On The Map

Two days of carrying huge loads is finally over. We have single carried to Camp 2 at 9600’ and are ready to start packing lighter loads as we begin the routine of making double carries to get all our gear and food up the mountain.
What has impressed me most about this team is not just their strength, but their ability to endure and toil under mammoth loads without complaint. This is a special group.
Our weather has been snowy, but not bad enough to keep us in our tents. That said, we did set up our Posh House this afternoon which serves as our cook tent and dining room in one. It’s warmth and comfort allow us some fun and social time that provides a really nice balance to our climbing.
And what was on the menu tonight? Burritos with all the fixings. Yeah, we eat well up here. We sure as hec deserve it.
Ok. That’s a wrap for the night. Tomorrow we move to 11,200’ camp, if the weather gods allow.

RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt

On The Map

May 20, 2017

We were all excited at breakfast with the thought of flying on to Denali today. With cloudy weather in town nothing was certain, so when the flight service greeted us with a big thumbs up, we jumped into action.
When we hit the glacier the team climbed like they were born to do it. We had a flawless climb to camp, without any of the hiccups that are just normal as we get our feet wet starting out on a big expedition with the loads we’re sporting. This sure made carrying these outrageous loads easier.
So now we’re in the tents resting up for another big day. The crew is psyched to get up to camp at 9600’, and has certainly demonstrated the strength to do it.
I’m lucky to be in the company of such a strong, nice bunch of climbers.
Talk to you from 9600’.

RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale an JT Schmitt

On The Map

May 20, 2017

A visit to the National Park Service to sign in for our expedition followed our team meeting this morning. Good stuff was covered at both get togethers, and set the tone for a safe, fun, and otherwise successful trip.
And then the work began, starting with checking the ton of gear we all have, the group gear and food we’ll be taking, and packing all this stuff up so we can actually move someplace tomorrow. We certainly couldn’t have fit more into the day.
As we were working, the clouds of the morning finally gave way to clear skies this evening, just in time for us to enjoy a last dinner together under an Alaskan sun that never really sets. Halibut, reindeer meatloaf and local brews were on order - menu items we’ll not see for some time.
We’re all really enjoying one another’s company already, and I look forward to starting our climb in the morning, provided the skies stay reasonably clear overnight.
We’ll be in touch tomorrow, hopefully from the Kahiltna Glacier.

RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT

May 19, 2017

The rain fell as we debarked from the plane after touching down at Anchorage International Airport. With three hours before meeting the team Christina, JT and I reviewed paperwork and plans for the trip.
Then, one by one folks started showing up, with everyone gathered well before our 4:30 departure. A good sign of things you come.
We had plenty of time to get to know each other while awaiting our shuttle to Talkeetna and I was struck by the ease of conversation between everyone right from the start.
Having climbed with most everyone already it was fun to catch up with folks. By dinner time the mood was even looser as we enjoyed a nice meal at the West Rib.
Most of the team showed restraint in passing up calls to have ‘one’ at the world famous Fairview Inn, but for those of us who showed weakness and entered those decadent halls, a proper tradition was upheld. The music wasn’t half bad either.
It’s now time for some rest as tomorrow promises to be quite busy as we prepare for our flight on to the mountain on Sunday. I’m really looking forward to getting that one step closer to the climb we’ve all been waiting for for so long.

Goodnight from Talkeetna, elevation 300’.

RMI Guide Brent Okita

The Four Day Summit Climb May 12 - 15 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  RMI Guides Brent Okita and Solveig Waterfall led their teams on a cold but clear day.  The teams will descend to Muir and then return to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb teams!

The first program of the 2017 Mt. Rainier season reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning!  RMI Guides Brent Okita and Solveig Waterfall led their Five Day Summit Climb teams from Camp Muir to the summit.  Brent reported clear skies with windy conditions.  Both teams began their descent shortly after 7 am.  They will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to the Five Day Summit Climb teams!

Our acclimatization climb to Ingraham Flats went well today with beautiful weather. What a view of the mountain. Our guide training team went to the summit and prepped the route for us, so we should be in good shape for our climb tonight.
Let’s hope the wind and weather hold for us. I think it will.

RMI Guide Brent Okita

Our final morning has been perfect. Warm, sunny weather just right for a last morning of training. Fixed rope work with ascenders, then an informative session learning about snow pits has topped off a wonderful week with a great team.
Now, for a pleasant descent to Paradise then on to the luxuries of living at sea level.
Though some have mentioned wanting to stay here another few days, I think we’re all ready for a shower and some real food.
It’s been fun!

RMI Guide Brent Okita

An attempt at the summit was not to be had given the avalanche conditions up high. So, instead we learned how to evaluate these conditions and deal with an avalanche rescue.
In the afternoon we worked on some ice climbing skills, lowering folks into a large crevasse so they could claw and fight their way out. Everyone did great, and nobody was left in the hole.
When we got back to Camp Muir, the team was still excited to do more, so we worked on advanced cramponing technique and belaying. I think everyone was psyched with how the weather has finally settled out and granted us some blue sky and mild winds.
Tomorrow we address a few more skills, then head down to Basecamp in Ashford, and perhaps a beer and burger to celebrate a great week, and a fantastic crew.

RMI Guide Brent Okita