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Entries By elias de andres martos


Mt. Rainier: The Winter Seminar Reaches 13,000’

The Winter Seminar aborted their summit attempt this morning.  At 13,000’ the team came upon a crevasse making that elevation their high point. RMI Guide Brent Okita reported that winds were about 30-35 mph and some blue skies were peeking through cloud layers above and below them on the mountain.
The guides said everyone on the team did an amazing job and all are safely back at Camp Muir enjoying some hot drinks. Once the team refuels, they are going to do some more training before calling it a day.

RMI Guides Brent Okita and Elias de Andres Martos

Way to go Jason!

Posted by: Brian on 4/15/2016 at 8:22 am

I’m so proud of you JoshuaBlu! I can’t wait to hear all about this trip!

Posted by: Melinda on 4/15/2016 at 7:54 am


Mt. Rainier: The Winter Seminar Enjoy Spectacular Views to Camp Muir

The April 10th Winter Seminar had a beautiful day on the Muir Snowfield. The strong crew made their way up to Camp Muir taking in the Cascades and surrounding views. The team, being led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Elias de Andres Martos, checked in this morning. The winds during the night at Camp Muir had some strong gusts but are currently tapering off. The team checked in via radio while having breakfast and getting ready for a day of training.

WoW !!!! What an amazing landscape !!!! Hope you’ll be able to climb up to the summit :)

Posted by: Marika, Philipe, Rémy & Mayla on 4/13/2016 at 3:23 pm


Kyajo Ri and Ama Dablam: Successful Fall Expedition to the Khumbu

RMI guide Elías de Andrés-Martos and office member Bridget Schletty returned last fall from a 5-week expedition the Himalaya, completing and exploratory climb of Kyajo Ri as well as climbing Ama Dablam.

By Bridget Schletty

We headed to Nepal in early October with the intention of climbing and exploring in the Khumbu region. In this, our 4th trip to the highest mountain range in the world, our objectives weren’t going to be any of the 8,000m peaks in the range, but smaller peaks in the 6,000m vicinity, focusing more on the style we used to climb them.

Our trip started with an exploratory trek to the base of the Mahalangur Himal, a subrange that encompasses Cho Oyu, and that contains a few unclimbed peaks we wanted to check out for a potential future climb. Reaching the rarely frequented southern base camp of Cho Oyu, the 6th tallest mountain in the world, provided great acclimatization, and spending several days in this secluded area was an incomparable experience. After breathing the thin air, looking at the Tibetan border, photographing wild yaks, and circumnavigating alpine lakes at 18,000ft, our time was up; we were ready for our first climbing objective: Kyajo Ri, which rises to 20,295’ between the trekking routes to Gokyo and Thame.

Camp 1 on Kyajo Ri.   Elias de Andres Martos

We headed to the Kyajo Dranka, a valley between the renowned Cholatse Peak and the Rolwaling mountains. We did not see a single soul, save our team of porters, from the moment we left the standard trail between Namche and the presumed Base Camp around 14,400ft. At that point, we waved goodbye to them as well, pitched a tent and spent the night; the next morning we’d start our one-push climb of this remote peak. While we were focused on attempting this peak in alpine style (only the stuff we could carry in our packs, climbing straight up without doing carries or fixing any of the route), it turned out that the discoveries of beauty along the 4-day push to the summit were the true reward. We did climb an incredible, steep ridgeline guarded by a few technical pitches of rock and mixed terrain, but the hanging glacial lakes, the vertical rock walls protecting the access to the valleys, and the solitude we encountered were more captivating than our success in style and technique.

Bridgett and teammate Lonnie on the summit of Kyajo Ri.   Elias de Andres Martos

With this objective tackled, we could have headed home satisfied with our climbing ambitions; however, we had laid eyes on another peak on previous expeditions, often recognized as the most beautiful peak in the Khumbu: Ama Dablam (“The Mother’s Jewel Box”), a 22,349-ft tower of rock, snow, and ice. Perfectly acclimatized now, we were charged up to try and move as quickly as we could. With a few days rest in Namche Bazaar, we had 2 days to make it to BC. Once there, we corroborated the weather forecast, and with no extra time to hang out, we had to start climbing and use the following 3 days to go up.

Steep and involved from just a few hours out of Base Camp, the route only seems to be more impenetrable as you move up it. Making it to C1 proved to be a heads-up as to why this mountain is only successfully summited by less than 25% of the people who try it. Focusing on our plan, we settled in for the night, knowing the most difficult terrain lay ahead. An early start the next morning was mandatory; getting stuffed along the fixed terrain near the Yellow Tower could be a drag, and arriving there with no space to pitch a tent, a nightmare. Despite being the first party to arrive at this iconic landmark, with only 6 or 7 feasible tent spots, it was disheartening to find other teams had already claimed the prime real estate during previous carries. Luckily our minimalist style had us travelling with a small Bibler tent, which we made fit on the only remaining spindrift, a good portion of which was sticking out over the almost 5,000’ cliff of the SW face.

Bridgett en route to Camp 2 on Ama Dablam.   Elias de Andres Martos

Clearly we had no choice but to spend the least amount of time possible there. We decided to forego Camp 3 and attempt the summit that very night, from Camp 2. A 9pm wake-up was delayed by high winds, but by 11:45pm, we were on the move. Ascending through mixed terrain (nearly vertical snow slopes and incredibly exposed rock traverses) proved to be demanding and involved. Fixed lines protected the exposed terrain which allowed us to push the pace to stay on schedule, moving as quickly as we could. By 4am we reached Camp 3 to the amazed, yet encouraging eyes of the team that, at that time, was preparing to depart.

“Where are you coming from?” asked one climber.
“Camp 2,” Elías responded.
“You continuing up?”
“Yes!”

At that point, the high winds that had delayed our departure came back with a vengeance, and the most bitterly cold temps we’ve ever experienced convinced me to stay put, keep all my fingers and toes, and allow Elías to have a quick crack at the summit. (It would only be “a few hours.”)

Benefitting from the ultimate gesture of Sherpa hospitality, I was welcomed into a small frosty tent, where 5 local climbing guides were sipping their last cup of warm milk and eating handfuls of champa (roasted barley grits) before departing for their summit bid. There was something a bit surreal about being handed a hot beverage from strangers in puffy down suits and 8,000-m boots at 4AM and dozing off to the comforting aroma of incense burning over a tiny camp stove.

Just as the sun hit the tent, a voice woke me up from my slumber. Elías was back from the summit, urging me to grab gear and continue down; accomplished but tired, he was eager to return to the comforts of lower elevations. An uneventful but quick descent took us to Camp 2, with enough time to continue farther down. After a 16 hour day, Elías had gone from Camp 2 to the summit (foregoing C3) and all the way down to C1. Perhaps it was the promise of chocolate cake and a real bed that kept us speeding along towards the finish line! Three days later, we reached the Lukla airstrip, where the adventures had begun 5 weeks before.

Following the obligatory “duffle shuffle” day back in Kathmandu, we arranged to spend our last day in Nepal volunteering with TRIFC, an NGO based in Bellevue, WA. This group focuses on children with disabilities. We gathered with an eager group of blind children and adults at the climbing gym in the central tourist district of Thamel. The morning was filled with encouraging cheers, lighthearted giggles, and proud smiles, as we coached our excited athletes up and down the wall. After a pleasant group meal, in which many of our assumptions about physical limits were restructured, we were shuttled to a home and rehab center for physically impaired youth.

There were, no doubt, plenty of signs of adversity: cracks in the walls from the recent earthquakes, transportation complications, and the social stigma and financial struggles that families with disabled children face in Nepal. Yet spirits were high as we witnessed how well these children had learned to cope despite the odds being against them. Prosthetic limbs and other physical deformities didn’t keep any of these youngsters from going to school, playing their favorite sports, doing household chores, and even hosting a dance performance for us!

We will strive to hold these memories close the next time we find ourselves wallowing in self-pity high on a frozen mountain. We are so fortunate to be able to push our bodies to their limit and venture into the serenity of remote Himalayan regions – and to do so among people who welcome visitors with open hearts and doors.
_____
Bridget Schletty and Elias de Andres Martos are a husband and wife climbing team. Elias guides worldwide from the Himalaya to Peru for RMI Expeditions, and Bridget spends the summers helping out climbers in the front office of RMI. This was their fourth expedition to the Himalaya, with previous expeditions including a successful climb of Shishapangma. Elias will be guiding an expedition to Kyajo Ri this fall! They call Ridgeway, CO home when they aren’t traveling the world.

Enjoyed this post immensely. Had read Lonnie’s account previously, so your perspective added great detail.
Thanks!!

Posted by: Dennis Mashue on 4/4/2016 at 8:02 am

Great read. Loved it.  As I know your and Elias’s climbing attitude, reading this was all the more enjoyable.

Posted by: Kenzie Campbell on 4/2/2016 at 7:36 pm


Mt. Rainier: The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir on the Summit!

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir, led by Casey Grom and Elias de Andres Martos, reached the summit of Mount Rainier!  The guides reported overnight snow of a couple of inches in places but mostly a dusting.  The precipitation did stop for their summit bid.  They also reported no winds and a cloud deck of 12,000 feet.  After spending some time on the top, the teams will begin their descent back to Camp Muir.

Congratulations to the team!

Congratulations guys what a team effort to get to the summit. Training right now for my summit bid either in 2016 or in 2017.

Posted by: Kevin Stone on 9/18/2015 at 7:30 am

Congratulations guys what a team effort to get to the summit. Training right now for my summit bid either in 2016 or in 2017. 

Posted by: Kevin Stone on 9/18/2015 at 7:29 am


Mt. Rainier: August 23rd Summit!

The Mount Rainier Summit Climbs, led by RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Jake Beren, called in at 7:38 a.m.  The first teams began their descent from the crater rim at that time and the second teams followed at 7:53 a.m.  The guides report a little wind from the WSW but all-in-all, good weather.

Congratulations to today’s summit climbers!

Congratulations to Elizabeth and her BCM climbing partners - thrilled that you were able to summit and that you had such great weather!  Thanks to your RMI guide for keeping you safe.  Have a joyful decent.
Mom and Dad

Posted by: Tom Williams on 8/23/2015 at 8:49 am


Mt. Rainier: August 7th Summit!

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Kel Rossiter led our Summit Climb teams to the top of Mount Rainier this morning.  Their views spanned out to Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams and other peaks in the Cascade Mountains.  Both teams began their descent after 8:15 a.m.

Congratulations Summit Climb Teams!

Congratulations on summititing Mt. rainier this am. I knew you could do it.

Posted by: Jeanette on 8/7/2015 at 12:41 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Teams Reach the Summit

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Elias de Andres Martos reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Win reported hazy skies and a light wind.  The teams are on their descent from the summit en route to Camp Muir.  Once at Camp Muir the climbers will repack their gear and continue their descent to Paradise.  Today’s climbers have spent the last several months raising money for The American Lung Association in Washington’s Climb for Clean Air.

Congratulations to the climbers for their efforts of fundraising, training and climbing!

No matter where your highpoint was this morning, congratulations on your great effort and teamwork!!!

Posted by: Frank Yandrasits on 8/2/2015 at 9:09 am


Alpamayo Expedition: Elias and Team Return from the Mountains

Greetings from Huaraz!

The team finished the expedition yesterday, arriving safe and sound to the capital of the Ancash district of Peru, but also the capital of Andean climbing. Our descent to the trail head at Cashapampa, with the help of horses, was an extraordinary experience. We took our time to enjoyed for the last time the views of the massively snow fluted peaks and turquoise lakes down valley. Right on time for a shower and a celebratory dinner, the arrival at the hotel marked the end of our climbing adventure. We’ll spend the day today relaxing in Huaraz and enjoying a Pachamanca, typical Peruvian meal cooked underground, with our local guide and outfitter’s family, before packing for tomorrow’s departure to Lima and flights back home.
Thanks to all for following and cheering for this team during our climb! We just say bye now until next year’s expedition, wishing best of luck to Geoff’s Schellens’ team, who’s currently starting the 2nd RMI Alpamayo climb this season.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Back at Base Camp

We are back at the comfort of lower elevations, the meals of our cook Emilio, and the safety of the Andean meadow in which it sits. Our summit climb yesterday was incredible; mainly because of the climbing ability of our climbers, (providing the fastest and most efficient one this guide has had) but also because the weather, conditions and surroundings. We had the mountain to ourselves, which contributed too. This morning, we had to drag our feet out of Camp 2, since a whiteout engulfed us upon waking up. The weather gave us a break and without hesitation, we started our descent to BC. We know we’re not done till we dismount our horses tomorrow at the trailhead, but our sense of accomplishment makes us believe so; we have climbed, arguably and according to many, the most beautiful mountain in the world. We’re going now to rest that thought in the warmth of the first night not on the glacier in a few days, and let you know all about it tomorrow from our hotel.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

We’re very proud of you all! Congratulations on your successful climb! Dixie, Scott and Tucker

Posted by: Dixie on 7/25/2015 at 5:38 am

Fatima, Great to hear that you had a memorable experience and such good conditions on summit day on such an unusually beautiful mountain. That (and the 450m ice-climb) will make it special! Take care on the return journey.
Peter

Posted by: Peter Williamson on 7/24/2015 at 3:57 pm


Alpamayo Expedition: Elias and Team Summit!

Hi again, this is Elias it looks like the previous message got cut by the satellite reception. We are back at Camp, everything went pretty well. This team crushed it, they climbed 450 meters of really step ice on Alpamayo in less than five hours.  They killed it. We are safely back at camp. Sorry we couldn’t call from the top but if you have seen pictures of the mountain, there is only room for one person at a time so we couldn’t call from there.  This is pretty awesome.  We want to thank everybody who has been cheering for us.  We will keep you posted tomorrow from Base Camp, hopefully.  We’re going to chill tonight here at High Camp, because we had the entire mountain to ourselves. So there was no rush to leave early, we had a later start, enjoyed ourselves in the daylight. We are going to sleep here and then do the descent tomorrow. That’s all for now and thanks again for following, and we will check in tomorrow from Base Camp prior to heading out the next day.

Take care, Bye.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Felicitaciones al equipo!!!!
Que tengan un descenso seguro y disfruten del éxito!
Gracias por todos los informes
Un abrazo fuerte
Bettina ( hermana de Wolf )

Posted by: Bettina Riehle de Mola on 7/22/2015 at 10:47 pm

Dear Team - CONGRATULATIONS!!!! What an amazing achievement - be safe on the way down and get some rest! Hugs and BRAVO! Feli

Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/22/2015 at 4:45 pm

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