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Entries By elias de andres martos

Mt. Rainier: Teams on the Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams for August 17 - 20 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The teams enjoyed beautiful weather with clear skies and a lots of bright moon light.  After spending time in the crater, they started their descent. As of 7:00 am PT, RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Mike King reported that they were descending Disappointment Cleaver.  We look forward to greeting the teams at BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today Summit Climbers!

Great Job Matt H. and the rest of the team!

Posted by: Joe Hackett on 8/20/2016 at 7:39 am

Artesonraju: Elias, Eric & Teams Hit Bad Route Conditions

Hello, this is the Artesonraju team calling from Moraine Camp, (high camp). Unfortunately we cannot celebrate a summit, but we were short of it today. We had to bail 150 meters prior to the summit, that’s roughly 450 feet, given the bad snow and ice conditions that we had on the head wall, but we did put up a fight on a challenging climb. Everybody’s doing great here. Looking forward to getting down to basecamp and eventually to Vaqueria tomorrow. So stay tuned for our full report on the trip in a couple days. Hopefully all are doing well at home.  Thanks for following. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls from Moraine Camp.

Welcome down, safe & sound!! Kim, you (and the team) are amazing adventurers! I try to imagine that amount of effort for that many days in that frigid cold and wind, and needless to say, it’s impossible. Great job on all fronts and congratulations on this tough climb!!!  XXX Trish

Posted by: Trish on 8/12/2016 at 4:01 pm

Hi Kim , We are very proud of you & the entire team!!!  It must have been a very exciting climb!  We look forward to hearing all about this expedition & of course seeing the amazing photos!!  Travel safe & stay well!!  Love,  Dad

Posted by: SHEL on 8/10/2016 at 7:47 am

Artesonraju: Teams Take a Rest Day

Good evening from Artesonraju Base Camp. Today was a well deserved rest day here at Hauripampa after yesterday’s summit on Paria. We’re eager to start our final move towards our objective.

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Eric Frank

Artesonraju: Elias, Eric and Team Reach Summit of Paria North

Hello - This is Elias and Eric.  We are on the summit of Paria North at 5,500 meters roughly 18,500’ and it’s a beautiful day up here. We can see a lot of the cool summits of the Cordillera Blanca.  We just wanted to let you know that we are are starting our descent.  We will let you know what happens in the next few days on the blog.  That is all for now everybody’s good and we are enjoying ourselves.

Take care,
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos call from the summit of Paria North.

Cheers to Roland from his fans in Atlanta!

Posted by: Meg Schlachter on 8/9/2016 at 6:43 pm

Wonderful!  Sounds like everything is on schedule!  Played trivia last week - one of the questions was “what sport uses an ice pick?” Yea!  we knew!  Love, momma

Posted by: Jane Lubow on 8/8/2016 at 8:08 am

Artesonraju: Team Acclimates on Nearby Peak Paria

Hello from Paria high camp at 5000 meter.This is a satellite peak of Artesonraju we’ve decided to climb to acclimatize. So far it’s a Mars like landscape. All is good, stay tuned for our summit dispatch.

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos & Eric Frank

Artesonraju: Team Check in From Base Camp

All is good at Artesonraju Base Camp. We rested today to get used to the new altitude, as we saw the many trekkers of the Santa Cruz go by. We’re headed to bed now excited for tomorrow!

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos

Artesonraju: The Teams Arrive in Base Camp

And we are at Base Camp! The second day of the approach was incredible, as the scenery went from beautiful to dramatic… The climb up to Punta Union pass at 4750m greeted us with the views of Taulliraju, one of the most radical peaks in the range, with a sheer west face that made our jaws drop just thinking of how could it be even possible to climb. On the other side, Artesonraju, our objective reigned over the valley with its top amongst the clouds. Now it is time to spend some time acclimating, all while enjoying the comforts and gourmet food of camp.

Best regards,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

P.S. Rich wishes happy B-day to his wife Christina.

Hi Kim, WOW….Can’t wait to see the amazing photos!  This climb sounds wonderful!  We will be heading back home this evening from our terrific trip out West. We will continue to follow your progress. Love, Dad

Posted by: SHEL on 8/4/2016 at 8:10 am

Artesonraju: Elias, Eric & Their Teams Reach Huaripampa

Good evening from Huaripampa, our camp on our way to Artesonraju Base. For the writer here, starting the Santa Cruz trek from this side has been a revelation of yet undiscovered beauty. We’re currently enjoying an incredible dinner of fresh trout, zucchini soup and fried banana, fueling for tomorrow’s hike. We’re all enjoying social time and laughter inside or pyramidal dining tent.

Stay tuned on our progress,
RMI Guides Elías de Andres Martos, Eric Frank, Peter and team

Sounds amazing! Have a great climb!

Posted by: Jim Thayer on 8/4/2016 at 6:58 am

Sounds yummy!  Happy climbing (and eating!)

Posted by: Pam on 8/3/2016 at 5:19 am

Artesonraju: Elias & Team Hike to Lake Churup

Today was a great day for the first day of our RMI Artesonraju Expedition- incredible landscape on the acclimatization hike, a stellar crew, and great weather. We hiked up to 14,400’ to our traditional destination of Lake Churup, and we had incredible views of the range, the glacial lake and the mountain of the same name. We hiked back to town and had a team lunch before returning to our hotel for some packing and relaxing. We’re heading tomorrow to the trailhead, at the town of Vaqueria. Everyone is doing great and is very excited.
We’ll be checking from the trail tomorrow, as we camp on our way to Base Camp.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

So happy you have such a great team. Enjoy!  Rich, I love you. Xo

Posted by: Christina on 8/3/2016 at 7:38 am

So glad to know you’re doing great and had wonderful views! Wish I could see them.

Posted by: Kay Roberts on 8/2/2016 at 7:17 am

Alpamayo: Elias and Team Descend to Base Camp

Hola! We are back at base camp safe and sound, tired but happy. A frigid, clear dawn kept us in our tents a bit longer this morning. With the first rays of sun peeking over the southwest face of Alpamayo, we knew our descent had to happen. We needed to be off the glacier before any ascending climbers reached the bergschrund over the col, otherwise we would be stuck waiting for the bottleneck to clear. We packed, and started our descent. An uneventful journey brought us to the warmth of the meadow where our cook Raúl was waiting for us with lunch ready to eat. After a couple nights of freeze dried food at our high camp; sweet potato fries, quinoa soup and a local dish “causa;” never tasted so good! Even at 14,000’. We spent the afternoon packing for tomorrow’s departure towards town, and finished the day with a jump into the river for some needed hygiene (Yeap, these guys are classy, even in the mountains!). Our next post will be tomorrow from our hotel in Huaraz.

Best regards,
Elías and team.

Hi Bob,  these blogs are THRILLING!

Posted by: Pat Pritz on 7/22/2016 at 5:51 am

I love and miss you Daddy.  Can’t wait to see you soon.

Posted by: Kate Stainton on 7/21/2016 at 9:27 pm

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Mt Rainier Weather
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