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Entries By elias de andres martos

Shishapangma: Team Remains at Camp 1 for Acclimatization

Good evening from Camp 1. Gnarly day we had today folks, as we’re currently waiting out a nasty wind storm. The morning went well, with our Sherpa team plus guides Robby and Elías making it to Camp 2, in the vicinity of 7,000m, breaking trail with more than a one foot of soft snow. Meanwhile the climbing team, under the directions of guide Knoff, made an acclimating stroll around Camp 1. Everyone is doing well, and the effects of the altitude at this elevation are barely noticeable now. We’ll keep you posted on our upcoming plan.
Time to go rest now!

RMI Guide Elías de Martos and team.

Sounds like a great day of progress! I can only imagine what the wind is like up at that altitude. Stay safe and best of luck tomorrow!

Posted by: Trish on 9/23/2016 at 6:03 am

Glad all is going well. Love seeing photos!

Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 9/23/2016 at 5:29 am

Shishapangma: Team Moving Efficiently Uphill

Good evening from the entire team at Camp 1!

We woke up to a dust of new snow and clouds this morning at Depot Camp (ABC). Soon after breakfast, we could tell the cloud layer was thin, the winds non existent, and the precipitation receding. Executing our plan of moving upwards was unquestionable. Covering known ground now to Camp 1 posed less of a challenge than the first time last week, and the team moved efficiently uphill. We reached our now well established camp shortly after 2 pm, followed by our Sherpa team, who was coming directly from Base Camp. We’re all now in our tents, with full bellies, tired legs and great spirits. Tomorrow we’ll start setting eyes towards Camp 2, we’ll keep you posted, as we’ll be dependent on the evolution of the snow that is starting to come down, as the sun set over the ridge.

Good night everyone!

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos, Adam Knoff & Robby Young

You guys look like you all forgot your razors :). Seriously, it sounds as though all of you are doing really well. Stay strong!

Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/22/2016 at 6:08 am

Cheering to Galina, team and all the support crew!
You guys are awesome! GO FORWARD, STAY SAFE!

Lots of hugs, Galina.

Posted by: Zhanar on 9/21/2016 at 8:05 pm

Shishapangma: Team Checks in from Depot Camp

Rotation 2… ready, set, go!
We’re at Depot Camp (aka Advanced Base Camp), starting our dinner. We left Base Camp this afternoon after lunch, and after a small snow storm that made us initially question our departure. The weather cleared, and in a mere three hours we were already in our tents at the edge of the glacier. The team is feeling quite well and strong, as it is proved by the fact that we ditched one hour from our time last week. Tomorrow we’ll be ascending to Camp 1, and then, the intentions are to reach Camp 2 and spend some time there afterwards. But we’ll keep you posted as we go. That’s it for now, we’ll check in tomorrow after our move to Camp 1.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

It has been great reading your blog and hearing about your progress. Would like to give a special shout out to my big brother, Arthur Muir. He is such an inspiration: his hard work, drive and determination are amazing! He gives new meaning to retirement! Way to go, Art, sending best wishes and much love to you and all the team! Bonnie

Posted by: Bonnie Bair on 9/21/2016 at 9:19 am

You have to be feeling a bit like a yo yo with the ups and downs! I have to think it takes real resol e to retrace those difficult steps. You guys inspire me!

Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/21/2016 at 6:29 am

Shishapangma: Elias & Team Prepare for Their Second Rotation

Comedian Mitch Hedberg once said during a comedy skit, “I just want to be a mountain climber so I can wear brightly colored clothes, hang out at Base Camp, and drink hot cocoa.” Today, for the second day in a row, we harnessed our inner Hedberg, and did just that. Our last rest day before the start of our second rotation onto the upper slopes of Shishapangma was filled with nourishment of all forms, and plenty of rest. Some of us practiced our favorite base camp activity, “sport eating.” Others took competitive napping to the next level. While another team member continued his rein as supreme cribbage champion of Shishapangma 2016. Regardless of our chosen rest day activities, we all did the best we could to prepare our bodies and our minds for what lies ahead. Our second rotation begins tomorrow with a move to Depot Camp, followed by a return to Camp 1 at 20,000’, and finally up to Camp 2 near 22,000’ by the end of the work week.  We’re all feeling great, looking good, and ready for the upcoming challenge here on the 14th highest mountain in the world. We’ll check in tomorrow from Depot Camp.

RMI Guides Robby, Elias, Adam, and the Shishapangma Team

Sandra,  best efforts there on the mountain.
Jim W.

Posted by: Jim Wilder on 9/20/2016 at 9:20 am

Good to hear everyone is rested, but no doubt when this is read that recuperation will be a dim memory! Be strong on the way to Camp 2 and be well. We’ll eagerly await tomorrow’s update!

Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/20/2016 at 5:35 am

Shishapangma: Elias & Team Enjoy a Well-Deserved Rest Day

Last night at 6:30 in the evening, Team Shishapangma was still on the move, descending a barely visible trail etched into the ancient glacial moraine by only a few dozen boots going up and down with hopes of establishing camps on the higher slopes of this snowy mass.  Clearly this footpath changes each year after the passing of the monsoon rains so we were again proven how generous and selfless our Sherpa team is when Furba and Pemba Sherpa met us more than two miles from camp with warm drinks and happy smiles.  We had been away from base camp for more than three days and they were eager to greet us.  The remaining walk was in the dark guessing where the trail led which our Sherpas, with most things mountain related, were better at than us.  We devoured dinner and shortly after sleep devoured us. 
This morning, Sunday the 18th of September greeted us like most others have.  The sun hits us at 7:30, the sounds of Aital and Purna our righteous cooks firing up the kitchen, echoing off the rocky hillside behind us, our neighbor’s camp coming to life.  But these common place things are now accompanied by a new set of sounds.  A chorus of coughs, hacks, and other phlegm related guttural noises are reminding us constantly how the unforgiving altitude we are living at is tightening its grip.  Life at base camp is the best we have but at 18,500 feet it is still a challenge.  So we were all grateful that today the most difficult thing we needed to do was drink coffee, clean some clothes, and listen to the Mark Wilkins school of business. 
Rest days are quickly becoming a hard earned and well deserved reward.  The rotations coming up are only going to get higher, colder and longer so we will enjoy base camp as much as we can.  Everyone is dreaming of home and wishing all following along lots of love.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

I look forward to these updates every night. It puts a lot of things into perspective. Stella, Thor and I are with you in spirit and wishing you well.  XO, Trish

Posted by: Trish on 9/23/2016 at 5:09 pm

Talking to you last night (your morning) and hearing your raspy breath (and challenged breathing) made the elevation you are operating at very real and vivid. Hopefully the day of rest will allow some natural healing to take place in all of your struggling respiratory systems.
Your adventure makes my solo 3,904 mile drive to/from Bonneville seems pretty lame. BTW, I thought of you yesterday when I looked at a partly collapsed bottle of oil that I’d opened and resealed on the 4,200 ft. elevation of the flats. Can’t imagine 18,000+.

Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/19/2016 at 6:28 am

Shishapangma: Team Descends from Camp 1

Good evening from Base Camp!
We just returned from Camp 1, all the way into Shishapangma Base Camp. The day has been mellow by Himalayan standards, as the great distance to cover or the big elevations to save are just a part of the game that this team is facing with style.
We’re heading into bed, looking forward to a couple days of rest while we let our bodies adapt to the new elevation reached.

Suva Rattri!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Keep up the great work and progress. I hope everyone is feeling better and acclimating to the altitude. I wish I could see the beauty you wake up to everyday. Enjoy the gorgeous full moon! It must be spectacular from your location!
Xoxo, Trish

Posted by: Trish Deerwester on 9/18/2016 at 4:21 am

Continued success, congrats to all.  Safe travels and enjoyable rest.  Thinking of you each and every day. 
Jane Nelson

Posted by: Jane Knoff Nelson on 9/17/2016 at 6:13 pm

Shishapangma: Elias and Team Check in from Camp 1

Namaste from Camp 1! A gelid evening is already in place here at 6,500m, but the warmth of our bags, the water boiled in the vestibule of the guides’ tent, and camaraderie around, are definitely bringing up the adventure temperature.

We had a long day climbing to here, as crossing the penitentes field is no joke; a super involved section that gains you no elevation but puts your endurance to the test. But we made it and now is time to go to bed, all while contemplating the summit, and in closer proximity, the location of Camp 2. “Suva Rattri”!!!

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and Team

Seeing the Harvest moon last night and again early this morning, I could not help but think what it must like for you all to see the sky at night. I am jealous, for sure. Save travels.

Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 9/17/2016 at 5:17 am

Seeing the beautiful Harvest moon last night and again early this morning, I could not help but think of what it must be like for you all to see the sky at night. I am jealous, for sure. Safe travels.

Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 9/17/2016 at 5:15 am

Shishapangma: Elias & Team on the Move to Camp 1

Good evening!
We’re on the move to Camp 1, spending the night at Depot Camp at the moment. It is hard to describe how small we feel, at the feet of this colossal peak, within a stone throw of its northwest glacier, flanked by huge penitentes of disproportionate dimensions, which we’ll have to cross tomorrow. The winds stopped shortly after dinner, and the plumes from the summit disappeared, allowing us to get a glimpse of the top, right before we crawled into our sleeping bags.
Two of our Sherpa just came by, descending from setting up Camp 1 and reporting good snow conditions, while the other three will remain there for the night, hoping to reach Camp 2 tomorrow while we climb to Camp 1. The plan is to all sleep together at 1, and descend to Base Camp the following day. As you can imagine, with this first rotation, we’re all in “game on” mode, and the anticipation is getting us semi-ecstatic.

More tomorrow from Camp 1,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and the Shishapangma crew

Okay, I love the updates, but I had to look up penitentes on-line :). Good luck to the team!

Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/16/2016 at 10:30 am

I can only imagine the butterflies in the stomach are beginning! Can’t wait to read more.

Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 9/16/2016 at 5:24 am

Shishapangma: Team Rests at Base Camp


Not much to report today, folks. We took a rest day at Base Camp, in preparation of tomorrow’s move. Packing food and gear, and rigging our ascension hardware took most of the morning. After another great lunch from our cooks, the afternoon was spent resting to tea and snacks, and even some ventured to the shower tent for the first time. The plan is to move to Depot Camp tomorrow morning and spend the night there, and then carry and move to Camp 1… the excitement is on!!!

Stay tuned for our first news from the glacier,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.

GO JARRETT!  We’re all routing for you and the entire TEAM!

Posted by: kea capel on 9/15/2016 at 9:31 am

Hello, grettings from Spain!
Goog luck to al the team members!

Posted by: Martin de Andres on 9/15/2016 at 7:53 am

Shishapangma: Team Makes a Carry to Depot Camp

And the progress uphill has started! We made a carry today to Depot Camp, right at the edge of the glacier, where we deposited some hardware, gas, tents, boots…Our goal is to have our kit in position where we need it, without having to carry it every time. As expected, the first venture into the 6000m vicinity was exhausting, and the “morrainy” terrain contributes to it. However making progress, laying eyes on the route, and continuing with the acclimating process is all a great payback.

Our strong Sherpa team continued until close to Camp 1 (they are the first ones to set foot on Shishapangma this season) and had success finding a good passage through the massive penitentes field that we have to cross just after Depot Camp. Imagine a moon-like area that presents some of the most intricate climbing of our route, that is what we will have to cross shortly after leaving Depot Camp.

We’re now enjoying a rest while our cooks Purna and Aital finish preparing our dinner. With our yak drivers gone until our departure in a month, only another small team of 3 French and 1 Australian (with their couple Sherpa and cooks) are issued to climb here this season here. It’s definitely an off the beaten path mountain!

Wishing you all well,
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

Art, this must surely be the climb of all climbs for you. I am practically holding my breath reading this and looking forward to the team’s daily progress. Go team!

Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 9/14/2016 at 5:07 am

Excited to hear of your progress to the glacier. Can’t wait to hear more! The “assault” on Bonneville was mixed. We beat the old G/CPRO record but the car’s ignition system broke up at 7500 in fifth gear on the return run. Better luck on your attempt

Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/14/2016 at 3:37 am

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