Entries By elias de andres martos

Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Ready to Fly to Talkeetna

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 17, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Good morning! We’re packing up as we speak, and are scheduled to fly back to Talkeetna in the next few hours. Unfortunately we can’t report another summit from yesterday. We continued to have more snow through the early afternoon and our fears for avalanche danger were confirmed when the temps climbed up later in the day. We settled for just the approach to the lower Pika, as we tested an incredibly reactive snowpack; while no climbing, that provided a super valuable safety learning opportunity for everyone.

That’s it for now, our next post will be from civilization with some pics.

Best,
Rmi Guide Elías deAndres Martos and Team

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb Big Arapiles

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 16th 2:06 am PT

Good morning from Little Switzerland. We had an awesome day yesterday!!! We woke up to marginal weather and spent the morning mastering lead climbing techniques and tricks at the belay. As things stabilized, we broke again into groups and climbers took the lead and responsibility to guide us to Big Arapiles, both up and down; It was an incredible outing and Vanessa, Tyler, Kyle, John and Paul made us proud.

Our plan today may change, as we are receiving a ton of snow. We’ll check back in later and let you know.

Standing by from the Pika Glacier,
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand, and team

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos ascends Big Arapiles in Little Switzerland, Alaska. Photo: Bridget Schletty RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos looks across the Pika Glacier towards the Trolls, from the summit of Big Arapiles. Photo: Bridget Schletty

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Plan for Next Climb Objective

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 15th 1:30 am PT

Good evening from Pika Glacier camp. We are writing from the relative comfort of our posh tent, after a day of on and off fog, wind and snow. We’re all in great spirits and hoping for the weather to clear to focus on our next objective. Enjoy a couple pictures of today’s view from home. That’s it for today!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The Alaska Alpine Seminar Pika Glacier Camp. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos Pika Glacier Camp and surrounding Denali National Park peaks. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb Lost Marsupial

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon | May 14, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 14, 2015, 1:45 am PT

Greetings from Little Swiss camp!

We’re “off rappel” for the day… and what a day! Full alpine experience. We climbed the route “Lost Marsupial” on The Throne, one of the MEGA CLASSICS in the area. We had A BLAST and everybody did a great job, but also had the opportunity to experience what alpine climbing is all about. Splitter granite on the crux pitches, snow over the upward traverses in between, and getting out of our comfort zones by climbing with a pack and mountaineering boots. Big dinner followed upon arrival to camp, following the eight full length rappels that took us off the wall, and allowed us to beat the storm that now we are under. We will keep you posted on our upcoming objectives. Best that’s from the promised land of climbing that is Alaska.

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon and team

RMI Guides Elias and Sean getting ready to belay on Lost Marsupial.  Photo: Bridget Schletty

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team on Belay!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 13, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 12, 2015 10:15 pm PT

Team is ready for our first objective: tomorrow morning we will be switching to multi-pitch mode and conquer our first big route. We had a great day training on (and summiting) “the Munchkin.”  We spent the day on its south ridge and east face rehearsing for steep snow and technical rock. Everyone is doing great and we all look forward to checking in with more accounts from the outstanding routes we are about to tackle.

Good evening!
RMI Guides Elías, Sean, Andy and the team.

Looking toward Base Camp and the Munchkin.  Photo: Bridget Schletty

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team First Full Day on the Pika Glacier

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 12, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 5,600'

May 11, 2015 11:00 pm PT

Greetings!

Warm temperatures, clear skies and pristine snow is what we enjoyed today. Our first full day in the Pika entailed a thorough review of our different anchors, crevasse rescue systems and scenarios, and a tour of the glacier to check the approach to our upcoming routes. Keeping a close eye on the ravens, whom are after our kitchen and tents, we enjoyed a massive production of tortellini at dinner. This will fuel us for our first objective tomorrow, when we’ll try our first summit while mastering transitions, protection and descents on rock and snow.

Best regards,
RMI Guides Elias, Andy, and Sean

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Fly to the Pika Glacier

Posted by: Andy Hildebrand, Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon | May 11, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 10, 2015, 9:28 pm PT

We woke today in Talkeetna to beautiful weather and were able to fly on to the Pika Glacier before noon. We spent the day building the camp that we’ll be calling home for the next week, and also had time for some avalanche education and training. For now, we are in and out of light clouds and snow, but things are relatively calm, temperatures are mild and all of us are excited to be in Little Switzerland after a weather day in Talkeetna. Fingers crossed for blue skies in the coming days!

RMI Guides Sean Collon, Elias de Andres Martos and Andy Hildebrand

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team - Day 1 Training in Talkeetna

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 09, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Greetings from Talkeetna, Alaska!

We are wrapping up our first day of the Alpine Skills Seminar. Everybody arrived on schedule to Anchorage yesterday, and a rainy drive took us to the gateway of the Alaska Range. As planned, we spent the morning getting ready with the pertinent logistics prior to loading the bush plane equipped with skies to take us to the glacier. As our appetite climbed for what we hoped to be the last served meal of the week, the thick clouds brought the rain (snow in the range) that would keep us grounded.

We took advantage of the delay, and practiced some skills at the K2 Hangar. We got familiar with our tents, reviewed knots and hitches and mastered crevasse self extrication to make the most of a wet afternoon. Our hopes are to fly tomorrow morning straight onto the Pika Glacier. We´ll keep you posted!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The Alaska Alpine Mountaineering Seminar looking over their tents. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos The AMS-Alpine team practice some knot tying in Talkeetna. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos The Alaska Alpine Mountaineering Seminar training at the K2 Hangar. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Reaches 12,300’

Posted by: Brent Okita, Seth Waterfall, Elias de Andres Martos, Ben Liken | April 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,300'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter reached 12,300 feet on Mt. Rainier before being dead-ended by a crevasse. Despite the crevasse, the team has been enjoying excellent weather on the upper mountain. The team will descend back to Camp Muir for the night where they will continue their skills training.

The Winter Seminar team enjoys the sunrise on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita Sunrise on Mt. Rainier with Little Tahoma. Photo: Brent Okita The Winter Seminar Team taking a rest break on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
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Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Enjoying Post Storm Sun

Posted by: Brent Okita, Seth Waterfall, Elias de Andres Martos, Ben Liken | April 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 6,200'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Seth Waterfall spent yesterday training on the lower slopes of Mt. Rainier. The team experienced stormy conditions with 5 - 6 inches of new snow overnight and some mild wind.

Today, the team is breaking camp and making their way uphill towards Camp Muir where they will continue their technical training. While breaking camp, the team enjoyed bluebird skies and beautiful mountain views.

The view of Mt. Rainier after the storm earlier this week. Photo: Brent Okita
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