Entries By eric frank

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Prepares in Talkeetna

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank | May 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

Friday, May 29th 12:52pm PDT

Today the UWR (Upper West Rib) McKinley team is scurrying around getting all of our gear dialed for the glacier. Planes are landing and taking off every few minutes, which keeps us motivated to stay on our tasks. Line by line we are crossing off our check lists, and the piles of food and gear are growing to epic proportions.

The weather is stable right now, and it looks promising that we will fly on tomorrow.

Thanks for following along. We’ll update everyone from the glacier!

RMI Guides Eric Frank and Geoff Schellens and team

The view of the Alaska Range from Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank RMI Guide Geoff Schellens with the May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank The RMI May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team sorting their gear in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank The food is ready to load into duffels for the RMI May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team. Photo: Eric Frank

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2015 Email Alerts

7

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Starts Their Expedition

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank | May 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

The Upper West Rib team assembled today at the Anchorage airport and started our journey north to Talkeetna. All of us are excited to have the trip underway. We have lots of logistics and preparing to take care of, but that will start tomorrow. Tonight we are going to get settled into our hotel, have some dinner, and relax. That’s all for now, thank you for following along with us as our adventure begins. 

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Mt. McKinley, 20,320'. Highest Point in North America. Photo: Bradford Washburn

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2015 Email Alerts

1

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on the Summit!

Posted by: Zeb Blais, Eric Frank | May 25, 2015
Categories:
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Zeb Blais reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning just before 8 am PT.  Eric reported clear skies with chilly temperatures and a 20 mph wind.
The teams will enjoy some time on the crater before starting their descent to Camp Muir.  After a brief rest at Camp Muir they will continue down to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb teams!

5

Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Summit Climbs Reach Summit

Posted by: Eric Frank, Brent Okita | August 12, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  RMI Guide Brent Okita led the Four Day Summit Climb and Eric Frank led the Five Day Summit Climb team.  The teams began their descent from the crater rim at 7 am and reported light winds and a bit of a cloud cap.  The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing them back at Rainier BaseCamp later today.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb Teams!

An RMI Team descending from the summit of Mt.Rainier in early August.  Photo: Mike Walter
9

Mt. Rainier: August 8th Summit!

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens | August 08, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

At 7:32 a.m. the RMI Mt. Rainier Four-Day Summit Climb teams began their descent from the crater rim.  RMI Guides Eric Frank and Geoff Schellens reported light winds, a marine layer and cold temperatures.

We look forward to congratulating them at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon!

Mt. Rainier - Approaching the top of the Disappointment Cleaver on the descent. Photo: Peter Whittaker
2

Alpamayo: Frank & Team Summit!

Posted by: Eric Frank | July 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 19,512'

Good morning, this is RMI Guide Eric Frank checking in from the summit of Alpamayo. It’s just before noon here in Peru. We had a pretty amazing climb today. Woke up to gorgeous weather, clear skies.  Everyone made it to the top.  We are just about to start rappelling down. We will leave a message and let you know we got down safely. Thanks for following along. Bye.

Update: July 10, 2014 2:21 PM PT

The team is back at high camp safe and sound.  They are packing up to head down to base camp and are looking forward to an amazing meal prepared by their base camp cook.

RMI Guide Eric Frank


RMI Guide Eric Frank calls in from the Alpamayo summit!

Sign Up For Peru 2014 Email Alerts

3

Alpamayo: Frank & Team Hanging Tough

Posted by: Eric Frank | July 09, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,880'

Hello everyone! Well, we are still at high camp on Alpamayo. The weather during the evening last night was a variable mix of snow and wind with periods of calm in-between. Sometime shortly after 2am, we decided to take advantage of one of the calm times and see how the route would treat us. After several hours of difficult, waist deep, trail breaking the team managed to access the main couloir on the southwest face. Unfortunately it was a six-inch deep torrent of falling spindrift and finding ice to stick our tools into was impossible. We retreated and made it back to camp shortly after 6am.

We have decided to wait one more day and hope to see an improvement in the weather. Keep your fingers crossed that tomorrow morning we will find good climbing conditions.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Sign Up For Peru 2014 Email Alerts


Alpamayo: Frank & Team Take a Weather Day

Posted by: Eric Frank | July 08, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,880'

Although we were excited and prepared to climb when we went to bed last night, the weather refused to cooperate with us. We woke up at midnight to hail and freezing rain, along with six inches of snow already on the ground. After two hours of watching the weather and hoping for improvement, we gave up and went back to bed.

This morning the skies were scattered, but dry. After breakfast we were able to punch a path up to the base of the route. At points the snow was nearly waist deep. Most of the snow had come down from the face above and it felt like wading through Dip-n-Dots.

We are back in camp now, resting and hoping for better weather in the morning.

Thinking of our friends and family,

RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Alpamayo Team

Sign Up For Peru 2014 Email Alerts

3

Alpamayo: Frank & Team Poised at High Camp

Posted by: Eric Frank | July 07, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,600'

It is hard to sit under Alpamayo’s southwest face and not stare for an extended period of time. Our team, along with three other groups moved up to the Col Camp (17,600’) today and find ourselves trying to prepare for the ascent tomorrow, but constantly distracted by the beauty of the route. From our tents the route rises nearly 2,000 feet in a vertical line of frozen snow and ice. An alpinist’s dream.

Getting to camp today was a job in itself. We climbed up a glacier for 90 minutes to the base of a headwall. It took three pitches of ice to reach the saddle where camp lies. The team performed well, but climbing 60-degree ice at 17,000 feet with 45-pound packs had everyone breathing hard.

Stay tuned for tomorrow. We hope to make an attempt and will call via satellite phone to update everyone with the results.

RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Alpamayo team

Sign Up For Peru 2014 Email Alerts


Alpamayo: Frank & Team Move to 16,200’

Posted by: Eric Frank | July 06, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 16,200'

After going to bed last night to the sound of heavy rain and hail, we were unsure what we would find this morning. Waking up to blue skies and warm weather was a pleasant surprise. Once the team had finished breakfast, we set about the arduous process of sorting through gear to carry uphill. Up until now mules have carried our gear, so weight was not a concern. Folding chairs, speaker boxes, cotton clothes, hardback books…anything was fair game. Now that we are carrying the gear on our backs, loads needed to be cut to a minimum and luxury items were left behind.
With the packs trimmed to a reasonable size we made the two-hour climb up to our camp at 16,200’. Currently the team is resting and looking forward to moving up again tomorrow.

RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Alpamayo team

Sign Up For Peru 2014 Email Alerts

1

Previous Page More Entries