Entries By leif bergstrom
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
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Sunday, June 1, 2025 12:25am PDT
Everyone’s weather dance must have worked, because we finally made it onto the mountain. After two and a half days of waiting, the stars aligned, and we got the call to load up around 1 PM. Everyone put on their mountain boots, threw their duffles into the conex for the next 20 days, took one final team picture, and boarded the planes.
After a flight above the clouds, we quickly descended to basecamp and unloaded into a pocket of sunshine. We went through group gear, repacked our duffles, and rigged the sleds to set out on our journey. Around 3 PM, we were finally walking and beginning the long-awaited climb.
We inched our way across the lower Kahiltna until we made it to Camp One, with the sun still above the mountains. This was our first chance to practice the craft of camp building—everyone set up their tents, crawled in, and waited for a late-night dinner of pesto tortellini. Finally, close to midnight, we wrapped up our day and prepped for tomorrow, when we hope to cache somewhere above 9,500 feet.
We’re excited to finally be climbing!
RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team
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Mt. McKinley Expedition May 27, 2025
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,200'
RMI Guide Nikki Champion and her team flew onto Kahiltna Base Camp this afternoon and are all settled in, ready to begin their climb.
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 27, 2025
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Friday May 30, 2025 -5:06 pm PDT
Well, we got everyone ready. Spirits were high, packs were packed, and the skies were crystal clear in town when we woke up… but sadly, the mountain had other plans. Basecamp was totally socked in.
So we got put on standby, crossing fingers and toes for a break in the weather.
And then we waited… and waited… and waited some more.
Unfortunately, instead of a magical clearing, the weather just kept building, and it became pretty clear that our window wasn’t going to open today. So, we shifted gears—found some lodging in town, went on a few sanity-preserving jogs, and then regrouped for dinner as a team.
Wash, rinse, repeat… and hope Friday brings the goods.
Think clear thoughts!
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 27, 2025
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Hannah Blum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 348'
Wednesday, May 28, 2025 - 7:27 pm PT
We’ve officially made it to Talkeetna! After a long travel day yesterday for most of the team, we all finally met up at the Anchorage airport and started our journey north. A few hours (and some great scenery) later, we rolled into Talkeetna, dropped our gear at K2, and made a beeline for Denali BrewPub. Over burgers and beers, we got to know each other a bit better—swapping stories and sharing what brought each of us to Denali this season.
This morning kicked off our first full day together, and it was a busy one. We started with a deep dive into the packing list, making sure everyone is dialed for the climb ahead. Mid-morning, we took a short walk over to the National Park Service office for our official briefing. We were lucky to have fellow RMI guide Alan Davis—who’s also working for the Park this season—lead our session. Afterward, it was back to the hangar for final packing, sorting group gear, and manifesting everything to get ready for tomorrow’s flight.
The team is looking strong, stoked, and ready to get this expedition rolling. We’re hoping for good weather and an early flight into the Alaska Range tomorrow so we can hit the ground running. Stay tuned!
RMI Guide Nikki Champion
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 27, 2025
Enjoy every moment of it Caroline and remember the butterfly is right behind you.
Posted by: Page Evans on 5/30/2025 at 7:16 pm
Enjoy your climb and return healthy! I wish You best weather to enjoy each of the sights! Care of each other!
Elisabeth
Posted by: Elisabeth Jente on 5/30/2025 at 1:01 pm
Posted by: Steve Gately, Leif Bergstrom, Hannah Blum, Charlie Harrison, Layne Peters, Rosie Hust
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Five Day Climb August 25 - 29 led by RMI Guides Steve Gately and Leif Bergstrom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 6 am PT. The team did some additional training yesterday and previewed the route from Camp Muir up to Ingraham Flats. Today they put their training and fitness to the test and reached 14,410'. Climbers are currently on their descent to Camp Muir, once back at Camp they will pack gear and continue the final 4,500' to Paradise. There program will conclude this afternoon with a celebration in Ashford.
Congratulations climbers!
Posted by: Leif Bergstrom, Daniel May, Charlie Harrison, Jackson Breen, Tom Skoog, Arianna Drechsler
Categories:
Elevation: 12,300'
The Five Day Climb August 19 - 23 led by RMI Guides Leif Bergstrom & Dan May left Camp Muir around 2 am to make their summit attempt. The teams climbed to the top of Disappointment Cleaver (12,300') before high winds and deteriorating weather conditions forced them to descend. The teams will return to Camp Muir where they will spend another night on the mountain. If weather improves they may be able to do some additional training before descending to Paradise tomorrow to complete their program.
Hi Everyone -
We made it to the top of Shuksan this morning. It was a really nice morning above the clouds!
RMI Guide Leif Bergstrom
Posted by: Seth Burns, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781
RMI Guides Seth Burns & Leif Bergstrom led their team of Mt. Baker - North Ridge climbers to the summit yesterday. They enjoyed a nice day on the mountain and returned to camp after their summit. They spent last night on the mountain and will be returning to the trailhead later today to conclude their program.
Nice work team!
I just want to take this time to thanks the guides and to share my appreciation for all participants that contributed to such a lovely experience throughout the journey to the top of baker and back at camp. It was such a pleasant experience and wish everyone all the best on their adventures to come!
regards,
Tony C Leon
Keep climbing!
Posted by: Tony Leon on 8/13/2024 at 1:02 pm
Posted by: Leif Bergstrom, Sam Marjerison, Calvin Jiricko, Ben Thorneycroft
Categories:
Elevation: 9,200'
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team had a successful week of Alpine Skills Training. Although poor weather kept the team from making a summit attempt, they made the best use of their time on the mountain learning snow ice anchors, crevasse rescue, ice climbing, fixed line travel, belaying and other technical skills needed for future expeditions like Denali or Aconcagua.
Posted by: Joe Hoch, Leif Bergstrom, Jackson Breen, Mitch Valaitis, Tom Skoog, Evan Redman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Joe Hoch and Leif Bergstrom were turned on their summit attempt of Mt. Rainier due to route conditions and high winds. The team is back at Camp Muir and will descend later this morning.
Jarmilo drzim palce!
To everyone I wish you clear days and low winds.
Posted by: Iveta on 6/2/2025 at 10:04 pm
Sending warm thoughts to Mila and the team!
Posted by: Eva on 6/2/2025 at 10:12 am
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