Entries By leif bergstrom
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Welcome to the first dispatch for the May 14th Denali Climb!
After a busy few days, getting to Talkeetna, and spending all day yesterday packing and preparing for the upcoming expedition, we went to bed hoping to fly the following morning.
We woke up early, called K2, and made our way to the hangar by 8 AM, dressed and ready to fly. Spirits were high, and we were optimistic. We loaded the planes and changed into our climbing gear. Unfortunately, the weather closed in on the mountain, and we entered a waiting period.
That waiting period extended into the afternoon and evening. We filled our day with a late morning coffee, walks to the river, a sanity run by Leif and me, and yet another dinner in town.
We will wake up again tomorrow and hope to fly. Until then, we enjoy the warm food and hot showers.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team
New Post Alerts:
Denali Expedition May 14, 2024
Posted by: Andy Bond, Leif Bergstrom, Charlie Harrison, Joey Manship, Evan Redman, Will Nash
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Andy Bond and Leif Bergstrom climbed to Ingraham Flats today. The teams were above the smoke and enjoyed a wonderful sunrise. While at the Flats the team learned crevasse rescue and did some ice climbing. The team will finish up their training soon and return to Paradise later this afternoon.
Someone add 10 extra pounds to Sara’s pack and DON’T TELL HER!! Good luck to everyone.
Posted by: Dwight on 8/21/2023 at 1:33 pm
Best of luck to all the group especially my son, Heath Scheibmeir. Enjoy the wonders of your trip and above all STAY SAFE! GOD BLESS YOU ALL!
Posted by: Joni Y Thummel on 8/20/2023 at 8:49 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,300'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Leif Bergstrom made it to the top of Disappointment Cleaver today. Route conditions and warm weather made it unsafe for our larger team to continue onto the upper mountain. The Team is back at Camp Muir and will be descending to Paradise soon.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Casey Grom, Joe Hoch, Charlie Harrison, Leif Bergstrom, Raymond Holt, Evan Redman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 13,400'
The Four Day Climb August 6 - 9 led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Joe Hoch were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The lenticular cloud over the mountain brought snow and winds and the teams reached 13,400' before deteriorating weather encouraged them to turn around. The climbers will return to Camp Muir for a quick stop before continuing to Paradise this afternoon.
You came very close! Darned bad luck with the weather. Great effort getting up there, can’t wait for the stories.
Posted by: Olga Walker on 8/9/2023 at 8:09 pm
Great effort. Much to be proud of. Managed challenges but can’t manage Mother Nature.
Be proud of yourselves.
Posted by: Margery Marshall on 8/9/2023 at 2:14 pm
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Calvin Jiricko, Ellison Boord, Raymond Holt, Bailey Servais
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
The Four Day Climb August 3 - 6 was unable to make a summit attempt due to continued rain throughout the night. RMI Guide Nikki Champion reported that rain began at Camp Muir around 10 pm and continued throughout the night. Light rain continued to fall this morning. The teams are planning to leave Camp Muir around 9:30 am heading downhill to Paradise.
We expect them to return to Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.
Being a first-timer, although the trip turned out to be incomplete, took away a couple of things from the experience:
1. Now I know that it is doable and will come back to get to the summit next year
2. The basic training and know-how will be helpful for future activities (thanks to all the guides)
Personally, I thought, although summitting was out of the question due to bad weather, going up to Ingrahm flat was possible in the morning and would have given us some experience regarding rope travel. Not sure, if something else other than the weather was under consideration for this decision not to go to Ingrahm flat
Finally, I plan to come back next year. Would it be possible to get some sort of concession that time due to the fact that we could not do the second part at all this time around?
Thanks
—manoj
Posted by: Manoj Devasarma on 8/9/2023 at 4:24 pm
Posted by: Mike King, Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Nick Sinapius, Hannah Blum, Will Nash
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four-Day climb led by RMI guides, Mike King and Leif Bergstrom, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams were standing on top at around 5:40am after a quick ascent.
They will descend to Rainier Basecamp this afternoon to bask in their success and enjoy a bit of rest after their hard work.
Great job team!
Posted by: Steve Gately, Leif Bergstrom, Lacie Smith
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,131'
On Friday in the North Cascades, RMI Guide Steve Gately and team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys. The team spent their final night in the mountains at high camp near Winnie's Slide before descending to the trailhead.
Posted by: Henry Coppolillo, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
The RMI Mt. Baker Team led by RMI Guides Henry Coppolillo and Leif Bergstrom were standing on the summit of Mt. Baker at 1:15 pm PDT today. Henry, Leif, and Team traversed the stunning North Face of Mt. Baker to scale the ice cliff of the North Ridge route. Leif reported clear skies, light winds, and great day of climbing. They will descend via the Coleman-Deming route and make their way back to camp for the night.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Casey Grom, Ben Luedtke, Mike Bennett, Will Nash, Leif Bergstrom, Evan Redman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb with RMI Guides Casey Grom and Ben Luedtke were on top of Mt. Rainier at 6:30 am. It was windy morning, but a good 6 hour and 15-minute climb of the Disappointment Cleaver route to reach the 14,410’ summit. The team is on the descent and in route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations team!
Congratulations everyone! It looks absolutely gorgeous up there. Can’t wait til I get the details from Joseph Rodriguez “Joey”
Again congratulations.
Posted by: Lisa on 7/1/2023 at 7:01 pm
Posted by: Walter Hailes, Taylor Bickford, Lacie Smith, Leif Bergstrom, Nick Sinapius, Tom Skoog
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Our Five Day Climb June 16 - 20 led by RMI Guides Walter Hailes and Taylor Bickford reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The team delayed their departure from Camp Muir due to a few inches of new snow and cold temperatures overnight. Once they reached Ingraham Flats, 11,200', on their ascent they were enjoying sunshine and no winds. The cloud deck was below them as they continued their ascent. The teams reached the summit and will return to Camp Muir for their second and final night on the mountain. Tomorrow, they will descend to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
thanks for the update!!! Glad to hear you made it and were wise to wait for a few extra degrees on the thermometer:) Congrats!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! to all of you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
His,
Eileen & Dave Conklin
Posted by: eileen conklin on 6/19/2023 at 5:54 pm
Tim & climbing crew: Hope all is going well on your climb &/or descent -as iam just getting into the RMI blog 1st time to follow your expedition up Denali - after our Alaska Land & Sea cruise -as I took your pic down by river in Talkeetna before your climb ( 1 of the group of 14 you met )
Posted by: Pete Sturos on 6/1/2024 at 5:37 am
Good Luck and enjoy your adventure!
Posted by: Priscilla on 5/18/2024 at 8:48 am
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