Entries By miles watson

The RMI team on Mt Shuksan reached the summit via the Fisher Chimneys. They are on their descent back to the trailhead today. 

Great work everyone!

Great news from Mount Baker!

RMI Guide George Hedreen and team have reached the summit of Mount Baker via the North Ridge Route and checked in from the top. George reported good climbing conditions, a bit of smoke in the area, and no thunderstorms despite the forecast calling for possible afternoon activity.The team is now descending via the Coleman-Deming Route and is expected to be back in camp this afternoon.

Congratulations to George and the entire team on a successful summit of Mount Baker!

The RMI team led by guides Will Ambler, Miles Watson, and Oliver Sperin had a sunset ascent of Mt Baker via the Easton Glacier. The team went 100% to the top! They are currently on their descent back to the trailhead. 

Great work everyone!

The Five Day climb led by RMI guide Mike King made their summit attempt on their second night at Camp Muir, and found summit success! They were leaving the crater rim around 6:50am starting their decent back to Camp Muir. They will briefly break at Camp Muir before starting their descent back to Paradise.They will return to Ashford this afternoon. 

Great work up there!

The Five Day Kautz Climb, led by RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo, climbed to the top of the Kautz Ice Chute this morning and continued to approximately 13,000 feet before determining that overnight rain had significantly deteriorated the route conditions. With safety as the top priority, the team made the decision to turn around and begin their descent.

The climbers will return to camp, spend one final night on the mountain, and complete their descent to the Paradise trailhead tomorrow, concluding their five-day adventure.

Climbers on the Four Day Climb July 15 - 18 reached the summit around 6:30 am today led by RMI Guides Sam Hoffman and Jack Ritterson.  Jack reported a very nice day and a great route but quite windy.  The teams were descending from the crater rim around 7 am.  Once back at Camp Muir they will take a short break before continuing down to Paradise this afternoon.  Their program will conclude at Rainier BaseCamp later today.

Nice work team!

The five-day climb led by RMI guides Joe Hoch and Lacie Smith made a sunset summit attempt. Unfortunately, due to high winds, the team was unable to summit and they turned around at 13,400'. They are currently on their descent from Camp Muir and will be back in Ashford this afternoon. 

Great work team!

Looking back on Denali

The glacial environment presents a curious juxtaposition. At times, we witness a frozen, static world where quietude and stillness exist - perhaps much like they are found in the dark of a cave or the bottom of a cold lake. Yet, here they present in such luminous expanses that it boggles the mind and shrivels the self. From the disturbed skyline, pierced by menhirs and minarets, to the inland sea of ice filling the valley floors - and all the intermediate seracs layered and bunted on the surrounding megaliths - the scenery feels utterly immobile and still. Until, quite suddenly, the illusion is shattered in a violent display of force. In an instant there is motion, seen before it’s heard, a blur of ice and rock come free and already flaunting its veil of pulverized and sublimated snow, trundling in booming din. The delicate chandeliers of ice along the ridgelines and faces show themselves for what they happen to be: some of the most powerful natural forces of erosion which exist in, and as the result of, a near constant state of motion, plucking and mashing in a ceaseless flow of primeval destruction. 

A Denali expedition can experience the same contradictions from day to day. We spend multiple days where our only minute movement may be in transit to the bathroom or simply rolling over in bed for fear of pressure ulcers. On these days the mountain itself may feel more alive with weather and with that, even moody or spiteful. We spend many days where we only yield a brutal locomotion to consume or sleep, spending the daylight hours (and there are many) in a constant toil. On these days it may seem that the mountain has drifted back down to a state of rest and wouldn’t note our proceedings, until that serac falls in the distance. Throughout, if you happen to take notice, both the ultimate stillness and the constant motion are in abundance. In this place and in leaving we are so grateful for the opportunity to experience such an atypical environment with a group of people so willing and capable.

Despite not reaching our goal of the summit, I am quite pleased with how much I’ve learned on this trip and how much I enjoyed the company. I am pleased with our safe descent and return home to family and friends. I am hopeful for another attempt at Denali’s summit in the future.

RMI Guide Will Ambler & Team

Tuesday, June 30, 2026 - 9:16 am PT

Still at 14,000. We were hoping for slightly more encouraging weather up high this morning but there was a ragged cloud cap on the upper mountain through midday. A move up high didn’t look to be impossible, but it certainly would have been tougher in the weather. We opted for plan B, a rest and recuperation day at 14K. Eventually the sun came out and life was easy. We sorted gear and tried to cut down on the pounds that we’ll carry up to high camp. Everybody caught up on hydration and reading. Tomorrow is our day for moving up.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Monday, June 29, 2026 - 10:39 pm

A big step forward today! We made our carry up on to the West Buttress at 16,200ft. The morning at 14K was calm, we were in and out of the clouds and snow, but it was clear above so we went for it. We started up just as the sun came around the South Peak, moderating the cold temps. The first hills were familiar, of course, but this time we could actually see where we were, so that helped. It was exciting to finally get on the fixed rope section and do some steep climbing. The team did quite well and we topped out about 3.5 hrs after leaving camp. There was a little breeze on the ridge, but it was delightfully calm where we stopped to cache our supplies. The descent was in clouds and falling snow again, but we were pointed in the correct direction for such conditions. Back in camp we rested and prepared to move to high camp.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn