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Entries By zeb blais

Peru Seminar: Blais & Team Rest and Train in Ischinca Valley

Today the name of the game is rest and relaxation . We’re soaking up the sun, enjoying fresh ceviche and accomplishing some technical training.

Panoramic views of Tocllaraju and our next climbing objective, Urus Este, are great encouragement for advancing our rope skills.  We worked on crevasse rescue and fixed line travel in the morning, before allowing our brains and bodies a full rest for the remainder of the day.

Tomorrow we’ll be up before the sun once again for our final peak in the Ishinca valley.  We’ll check in again when we return from the climb.

RMI Guides Zeb Blais, Chase Nelson and team

Peru Seminar: 100% to the Top of Ishinca!

After a couple rainy nights, we weren’t sure what hand the weather gods would deal us this morning for our Ishinca summit push.  When the alarm rang, we zipped open the tent door. We were elated to see blackness punctuated only with gleaming stars - not a cloud in the sky!

Our team got ready after an incredible breakfast of pancakes with banana compote and started walking under a blanket of stars. As we approached the glacier, sunlight illuminated Ranrapalca, the biggest peak to our south.

We transitioned to crampons and tackled the Penitenteied glacier. After an hour of weaving through the rough surface, the snow smoothed out and got steeper on the summit pyramid. The climbing was great and our team navigated the steep final pitch and large crevasse to gain the summit.

The entire team made it in good style! The weather held out all the way back to camp too! Everyone is looking forward to a well deserved rest day tomorrow.

RMI Guides Zeb Blais, Chase Nelson and team

Congrats on the safe summit! Looks like the weather cooperated and was a great view! Enjoy! Eli

Posted by: Eli Zygmuntowicz on 8/13/2016 at 7:54 pm

The starlit dome must have been amazing. Vicariously enjoying your expedition pictures.Love and strength to all…Phil and Laurie Brandau

Posted by: phil brandau on 8/13/2016 at 11:01 am

Peru Seminar: Blais & Team Enjoy Another Training Day

Today we trained on the glacier at over 16,000ft below Ishinca Peak. The team enjoyed the day and it was great for our acclimatization and movement skills. The glaciers are very dry at the moment which made for excellent practice with our crampons.

We just got back to camp and were treated to cheese stuffed fried bread with fresh guacamole. Our cook, Helario, is earning his keep and then some! We’re resting, digesting and hydrating before an early dinner.  Tomorrow we’re gunning for the summit of Ishinca . 

We’ll check back after we return.

RMI Guides Zeb Blais, Chase Nelson and team

I’ve loved reading the posts.  Wishing you all the best as you make the climb to Ishinca’s summit.  Can’t wait to hear how it went!

Posted by: Bonnie Bergey on 8/11/2016 at 6:22 pm

Peru Seminar: Blais & Team Training Day at Ishinca Base Camp

We are in our tents taking a little break before dinner. About two hours ago hail and rain caught us on the tail end of our training day at Ishinca Base Camp.

Before the afternoon storm we took advantage of our incredible venue to learn knots, anchors, rope ascension and rappelling. The huge glacial erratics just outside our camp provided the perfect place to rappel and ascend on overhanging terrain. Just as we were coiling up the ropes to head back to camp, pea sized hail began to pelt us. We retired to our mess tent where we were greeted with hot chocolate and popcorn.

We’re heading back there shortly for dinner, hoping it’s as good as last night’s feast. Hilario our cook ended dinner with one of the best chocolate mousses I’ve ever had- it’s going to be hard to top that!

RMI Guides Zeb Blais, Chase Nelson and team

Peru Seminar: Blais & Team Move to Ishinca Basecamp

Ahh how nice it is to finally be settled into a camp in the mountains. The lowlands have treated us well but this is what we came here for! This morning we boarded a bus and said goodbye to Huaraz and began our hike into the Ishinca Valley. Mule assistance kept our packs light and views of the Cordillera Blanca inspired our trek all the way to basecamp.

We built camp in a grassy meadow at 14,300 ft. flanked by our climbing objectives for the coming days.  We’re enjoying a bit of relaxation and adjusting to our new altitude at camp, before the real training starts tomorrow!

RMI Guides Zeb Blais and Chase Nelson

Peru Seminar: Blais & Team Acclimatization Swim

Today was the most fun I’ve ever had acclimatizing. The team was feeling good and moving well as we made our way up to the crystal clear waters of Laguna Churup.

The lake sits at 14,600’ and is a perfect day hike to get some altitude in before we move to our base camp in the Ishinca Valley. When we arrived we couldn’t resist the glacial-fed emerald pool. Within a few minutes most of the team was fully submerged and paddling as hard as they could to get back on shore.  The water temperature was… Refreshing.

Pictured here from left to right are Chase, John, Sarah and Steve.

This inspired group of adventurers is back in Huaraz, packed up and ready to head into base camp tomorrow. Can’t wait to get climbing!

Until then,
RMI Guide Zeb Blais and team

What a beautiful color the water is! Nothing better than taking a cold plunge to get more oxygen. Sending blessings to all as you get started on this adventure.  Looking forward to the updates as this story is created.

Posted by: Debbie Z. on 8/9/2016 at 7:18 am

Well done all!  Looks like great conditions.  Enjoy the cold water and the big adventure.

Posted by: Dan Foster on 8/9/2016 at 4:11 am

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons Team Summits!

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons Team Reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier via the Emmons route early this morning. RMI Guide Zeb Blais reported that the team had a great climb with absolutely beautiful weather.  The team is back at Camp Schumann and will spend the evening finishing up their training.  They return to Rainier Basecamp tomorrow afternoon.

Congratulations to the Emmons Team!

Mt. Rainier: July 21st Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb Led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Zeb Blais reached the summit of Mt. Rainier Early this morning.  The team climbed into a cap with 30 mph winds. They spent a brief time on the top before starting their descent.

Congratulations to today’s team!

Way to go, Jim!! Can’t wait to hear all about it!! Love You, Myra, Darby & Aidan

Posted by: Myra, Darby & Aidan on 7/21/2016 at 10:18 am

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Summits!

RMI Guide Zeb Blais led the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons to the summit of Mt. Rainier yesterday morning. The team enjoyed sunny breezy conditions during their climb. After celebrating on the summit, the team descended to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain.

Today the team will spend some time training as their descend to the White River Campground from Camp Schurman. We are excited to welcome them back to Ashford this afternoon.


Congrats team Texas!

Posted by: Josh H on 7/15/2016 at 9:18 am

Mt. Rainier: July 7th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Zeb Blais reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The team climbed in and out of the clouds this morning and were able to spend a short time on top. They have started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp in Ashford early this afternoon.
Congratulations to today’s teams!

Great ascend fantastic experience responsible safe and enjoyable climb to the top, unsurprisingly spectacular crevice formations just below the summit, memorable experience Thank you Zeb, Tyler , JT Schmitt, Chris, Jordan, Steve for all fabulous work!

Posted by: Lauro Urbina on 7/9/2016 at 10:45 am

Congrats. I hope it was amazing.

Posted by: Mark Steranka on 7/8/2016 at 8:06 am

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