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Entries By zeb blais


Fisher Chimneys: Blais and Team are Shut Down by Weather

Our team got shut down by weather on our summit push, but that didn’t stop us from having an amazing trip. The climbing and views on our way to high camp below the Upper Curtis glacier were worth the hard push getting there.

The Fisher Chimneys is an incredible route- alpine rock, a pitch of easy ice climbing, and outstanding views of Mount Baker and the Curtis glacier make it a classic!

We got out last night and the team celebrated a great, safe and fun trip!  Until next year Washington.

RMI Guide Zeb Blais and Team


Fisher Chimneys: Blais & Team Reach High Camp on Mt. Shuksan

Our team has made it to high camp after a great day of climbing. We’re perched just below the Upper Curtis Glacier with outstanding views of Mt. Baker and the higher reaches of our climbing route, the Fisher Chimneys.
We’re hoping the fair weather lasts long enough to give is a shot at the summit.  Despite the gloomy forecast, the team is upbeat and fired up from an exciting day making our way through the Chimneys and up Winney’s Slide. The Slide is nearly a full pitch of ice at this point and made for a bit of fun right before camp.
We’ll check in soon.  Wish us luck with the weather!

RMI Guides Zeb Blais, Steve Gately and team


Mt. Baker: Blais & Team Return to Camp

This is Zeb Blais and team checking in from Mount Baker. We had a pretty tough day today. We started out looking at the North Ridge Route. Due to route difficulties and an impending poor weather forecast, we decided to bail on climbing that route. We shifted our focus to the Coleman-Deming and after a long day of climbing, we got back to camp just a few minutes ago. It was a great climb and we only got rained on for a few minutes. We are back in our tents now waiting out some weather. Our plan is to pack up and head out tomorrow morning. That’s all for now.

RMI Guide Zeb Blais


RMI Guide Zeb Blais calls in from Mt. Baker.

OK, so you adjusted to weather conditions; I like that! Keep on trekking boys (on your nature bird walk!)!

Posted by: Patti on 8/28/2016 at 7:23 pm


Mt. Baker: Blais & Team Check In from Hogsback Camp

This is Zeb Blais and team checking in from our first camp on Mount Baker. We’re gearing up to do a little training this afternoon, and then tuck in early to get to bed. We will make our summit push on the North Ridge tomorrow. We’re crossing our fingers, hoping that the weather is going to hold out for us. If not, we have some great fall back plans, but until then we’re doing some training and resting up.

RMI Guide Zeb Blais


RMI Guide Zeb Blais calls in from Hogsback Camp, Mt. Baker.

Hope you all had an amazing adventure!

Posted by: Lilli and John on 8/28/2016 at 10:55 am

So excited for you guys… hit that summit and BANG! (In the words of Jay Wright!)

Posted by: Megan on 8/28/2016 at 10:52 am


Peru Seminar: Blais & Team Return to Huaraz

We packed up Pisco Base Camp this morning and headed back to the trail head. Everyone is ready for some solid rest and is welcoming the return to civilization, but it’s been a fun couple weeks of climbing. The views we’ve seen and the adventures we’ve shared are going to stick with the team for a while.
Tonight we celebrate a successful trip and pack our bags one last time. We’ll be heading out to catch planes back home tomorrow evening.

Thanks for following along!

RMI Guide Zeb Blais

What an adventure…I’ve enjoyed the free ride! Wonder where this group of climbers will head to next!

Posted by: Judy Mileto on 8/20/2016 at 5:42 pm


Peru Seminar: Blais & 100% of Team Summit Pisco Oeste

We are safely back at base camp after our entire team made the summit of our final peak of the trip,  Pisco Oeste.  Pisco was the third summit of the trip and the team is feeling accomplished with everyone making summits on Ishinca and Urus as well.  It was a great effort for the team and the camaraderie put forth to make it a successful trip for everyone was incredible.

While we’re all smiles now, this morning was a different story. We woke to thick clouds and light snow falling on our 16,000’ high camp. We shrugged it off and began our breakfast routine. By the time we were packed and ready to climb the snow had abated and the clouds showed signs if parting. An hour into the climb and we were staring at beautiful stars and moonlit mountain faces.

For a couple hours we had nothing but blue skies. Then as we neared the top, winds picked up and clouds began to build on the summit. We climbed on bundled up in puffy jackets. On top we were in and out of clouds, the weather parting for summit photos and glimpses of the famous peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo and Artesonraju.

It was an absolutely phenomenal climb and the way down was fast and smooth. 

We’re grateful for the help of our local guide William, our porters and our astonishing cook Helario, who makes masterpieces out of anything.  It’s been a great ride and I can’t wait for my next opportunity to come back to the ‘Blanca!

Cheers!

RMI Guide Zeb Blais

Well Done to the entire team!

Posted by: Richard Bergey/Bonnie Bergey on 8/18/2016 at 5:38 pm

So glad the clouds parted for the team, blessed!  The food sounds fantastic, lucky you are working off the calories.  Safe journey back home, can’t wait to hear the stories.

Posted by: Debbie Z on 8/18/2016 at 5:14 pm


Peru Seminar: Blais Calls In From Pisco Oeste

This is Zeb Blais and team checking in from 16,000-foot, Moraine Camp on Pisco Oeste. We had a great day today moving up to camp- pretty leisurely. We are now tucked in, fueled up and ready to make a charge on Pisco Oeste early in the morning. So we’ll check in when we get back. Until then.

RMI Guide Zeb Blais


RMI Guide Zeb Blais checking in from Pisco Oeste, Peru.

Zeb, hope you and the team are enjoying yourselves - safe climbing and looking forward to hearing about this one when you are back!

Posted by: C. Riordan on 8/18/2016 at 7:11 am


Peru Seminar: Blais & Team Move to Pisco Oeste

After a brief layover in Huaraz to shower, shave and eat a few meals at low elevation we’re back at it. Today we moved up to 15,300’ Pisco Oeste Base Camp.

While we waited for our burros and arrieros to deliver our gear, we took a short detour to Refugio Peru just above our camp. By the time we had finished off some cappuccino and chocolate cake, our burros had arrived and it was time to set camp.

Our camp lies in a beautiful alpine meadow surrounded by the massive peaks of Huandoy, Huascaran, Yanapaccha and our objective, Pisco Oeste. We’re primed to pack up tomorrow and move to our high camp before our summit attempt the following day. The team is doing great and we’re fired up for our next summit bid.

RMI Guides Zeb Blais, Chase Nelson and team


Peru Seminar: Blais & Team Return to Huaraz to Enjoy Creature Comforts Before Next Climb

We packed up camp and left the beauties of the Ishinca Valley this morning.  Our thoughts temporarily shifted from climbing peaks to hot showers and real beds. Don’t get me wrong, we’re not getting soft here. We still have an almost 19,000’ mountain to climb. But the creature comforts of Huaraz are certainly welcome for a day before we head back to the hills.
Or next target is Pisco Oeste in the Llanganuco valley. We’re feeling strong and we’re ready for the challenge.
These are a few photos from the last few days in Ishinca. Photos by Zeb Blais. Enjoy.

RMI Guides Zeb Blais, Chase Nelson and team

Hello to Steve Odom and the rest of the team! Hope the trip is going well!!!
Sayuri

Posted by: Sayuri Jinadasa on 8/17/2016 at 6:10 am

In awe of you all as I follow this incredible journey! Enjoy the respite…the next climb awaits!

Posted by: Judy Mileto on 8/16/2016 at 9:25 am


Peru Seminar: Blais & Team Summit Nevado Urus

Our team wasn’t feeling 100% when we woke at 3:30 this morning, but our team couldn’t be held down. At 10 am our entire team was sitting on the summit of Nevado Urus. Zero wind, full sun, incredible views all around.

This team has shown great strength and has supported one another through the entire journey. It was a tough day, but we pushed ourselves and ended up with a spectacular experience and one of the most beautiful summits we’ve seen.

Tomorrow we will be packing early and heading back to Huaraz.

RMI Guides Zeb Blais, Chase Nelson and team

Congratulations on making it to the summit of Nevado Uris.  It’s encouraging to hear that, although the team wasn’t feeling 100% early in the morning, you showed great support for one another and were rewarded with an amazing experience!  We feel proud and have great confidence in all of you.
Bonnie & Rick

Posted by: Bonnie & Rick on 8/15/2016 at 6:46 am

Thinking of you every day..have a great climb team be safe.

Posted by: Mary Lou keran on 8/15/2016 at 4:53 am

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