Entries from Mexico
Posted by: Mike King, Joe Hoch
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
We had a nice relaxed day off in Puebla yesterday. The team struck out in some smaller groups to walk around Puebla. Seems like good food, drink and site seeing was had. Today we head to Tlachichuca for a quick stop at Servimont’s historic soap factory turned climbers hostel to repack for our last summit attempt, Pico de Orizaba 18,491’. The remainder of the day will be spent taking trucks up a long and windy road to the Piedra Grande hut. Once there we will go for a short hike uphill to see the rocky and circuitous trail we will begin our climb on. We’ll check in hopefully from the summit tomorrow morning with a more detailed report once back down to the hostel. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes January 13, 2024
We had some new information about the steep snow slope on the “knees” route upon arrival at La Joya. The slope had not got any new snow and was a firm ice sheet. Having been there last fall I decided that we should come up with a new plan to acclimate our group in preparation for Orizaba. Our local guide Alan had mentioned that climbers had been descending the Ayoloco route. For context the Ayoloco glacier was declared “dead” in 2018. Our guides had used this route to climb Ixta until 2011ish. We decided that if the Ayoloco was descendable then it must be ascendable.
We set off yesterday into a dry and tall grassland filled with large sporadic pine trees, small lizards currying underfoot at 13000’. We picked our way up a “trail” not frequently used. Our high camp was 1000’ lower than the Refugio on the “knees” route but more pristine. We had a running water source nearby which doesn’t exist higher up.
Our team wound its way across Ixta’s middle slopes at midnight with the night lights of Mexico City showing the way. After a circuitous climb of the area formally known as the Ayoloco, we were on the summit at 5 am. Taking in the dawn colors before dropping into the once bountiful Ayoloco valley the team rallied like they have all trip.
The descent to La Joya aggrieved knees and toes but there’s no motivation like a hot shower, cold drink and rest day. We are in Puebla for a rest day and will repack for our Pico de Orizaba attempt on Saturday. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes January 13, 2024
January 17, 2024 - 5:50 am PT
Our team reached the summit of Ixta via Ayoloco route. We are descending to high camp and will post a full update once in Puebla.
RMI Guide Mike King
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes January 13, 2024
We called an audible this morning after hearing updated route conditions. The last remaining snow on our summit day has not got a refresh and is firm ice. This traverse would likely shut our summit day down. Instead we decided to go attempt the old Ayoloco route since teams have been using it as a descent route. The team is doing well. We will check in hopefully from the summit tomorrow morning. Until then, rest, hydration and dinner will occupy our afternoon.
RMI Guide Mike King
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes January 13, 2024
Yesterday the Mexico Volcanos team left our luxury accommodation at Hotel Geneve in Zona Rosa, Mexico City and headed to Volcan La Malinche to stretch the legs and get used to higher elevations.
We made great time through pine forests and cool air from 10,000ft to roughly 13,800ft before we were turned by the Policia de Montaña. Largely to protect the many locals in jeans and street shoes, their 2pm turn around was strict and they were not impressed by our fancy technical outerwear and backpacks.
Our conciliation price was an amazing view of our next goal, 17,103’ Volcan Iztaccíhuatl (Ixta), and later a muy grande BBQ feast at our cabañas. Off to Ixta!
RMI Guide Joe Hoch
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes January 13, 2024
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
This is Mike checking in for our Mexico Volcanoes team. All our climbers arrived over the last two days with bags in tow. We had a quick team meeting last night and a good dinner. Today we are enroute for our acclimatization hike on La Malinche. This dormant volcano has a dense pine forest that covers the lower slopes. The route gets above tree line after a few hours and ascends to a ridge that weaves its way to a nice summit. The air is clear here now so we are getting some good views of Ixta & Popo on our exit from Mexico City. Our hike today is approximately 9000' of gain/loss so we'll keep our fingers crossed for good weather. We will sleep at 10,000' in a former Olympic training facility....from the 1968. We won't have service at our cabins. I'll check in tomorrow while enroute to Ixta. The group is excited to get going.
Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes January 13, 2024
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Thanks everyone for following along and once again, a shout out to Farmer Dave for all the encouragement!
Climbing Orizaba is never easy. We ended up having a great weather day and route conditions were also favorable. But it still felt like a hard push after the long week of being rained off of big mountains and spending hours drying gear. The team can take pride in their perseverance and their summit of Pico de Orizaba, the third highest peak in North America.
Last night we celebrated in Tlachichuca at the Servimont hostel, where there is always a nice meal and cold drinks. Most people were in bed by 8pm, it was quite the party. Now we are on one final bus ride, to the airport this time, and will return to normal life tomorrow. The muddy, dusty gear we are bringing home will remind us of the good times we had in Mexico.
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier
Saturday, October 14, 2023 7:11 am PDT
Summit Orizaba. High clouds, cool, light breeze. Nice day!
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier & Team
Way to Go Dustin and Team!! Great Job !!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 10/15/2023 at 3:50 am
You did it!! Congratulations!
Know you are all stoked it worked out! Well done!
Posted by: Judy collins on 10/14/2023 at 5:17 pm
Alright, we are rested and have pressed the reset button. A rest day in Puebla is always well deserved for a group that has been tromping around in the mountains and enduring long bus rides. Rest day activities included all the standard stuff: museums, sampling local coffees, the bouldering gym, walking around the historic city center and a nice team dinner.
We are now on the bus, headed for Tlachichuca and it's a nice morning. Everyone is hopeful that the weather will be better than on Ixta, where we were slammed by rain and wind associated with the category 2 Hurricane Lidia, the eye of which passed just to our north. That was certainly an experience. We're looking for something less dramatic on Orizaba. Stay tuned for an update tomorrow afternoon!
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier
Hey Dustin! I hope you have the weather I had on Orizaba….Perfect!! I hope you all get to see the shadow of Orizaba in the valley below!!
All the best!!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 10/13/2023 at 1:29 pm
Wednesday, October 11, 2023 - 6:10 pm PT
Well, that was a thorough soaking. On night one of Ixta we camped at the trailhead. It rained all night without a break. In the morning it was still raining, but showing signs of clearing so we packed up and headed towards high camp. About an hour in to our hike, the sun came out, revealing our surroundings. We were treated to views of Ixta proper and Popo with a dusting of snow. However, around 5pm the clouds rolled back in and it rained hard again.
It rained throughout the night, a very cold rain. When I woke up to check the weather on a few occasions I was pelted by sideways sleet. Oh right, it was quite windy as well. Sustained moderate winds and precipitation throughout the night thwarted any chance of making a summit attempt. But we can chalk the whole experience up to more acclimatization and for some members of the team, 15400' was a new altitude record or sleeping altitude record.
This morning we descended from high camp, following the direction of a new dog friend. If not already soaked from the night prior, this hike ensured everyone was completely wet. Needless to say, we are all looking forward to some good meals and rest in Puebla tonight and tomorrow. We are keeping our optimism alive for Orizaba and are honestly feeling prepared. Hopefully this weather pattern clears out before Saturday.
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier
Great update and photos :). I hope the weather treats you right for Orizaba! Have fun B!
Posted by: Heather Collins on 10/12/2023 at 9:34 am
.jpg)
.jpg)
Hey Dustin! Way to go getting your Team to the Top!!! Brought back Awesome memories!!!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 10/15/2023 at 10:33 am
View All Comments