Entries from Mexico

"Popo says Nono"

Late we woke in the night, to find an unfortunate sight.

The volcano next door, poured ash on the floor,

And now we're forced to make flight.

For those who haven't seen the news, Mexico City not only had flights grounded due to the eruption of Popo, but we stayed grounded as well. A difficult but necessary decision meant we didn't leave high camp, and we chose to sleep in and keep our respiratory systems in check. We packed up camp and hiked back to basecamp with buffs and goggles on...seems like a Gen X trend of sorts. We were greeted back at basecamp by JP's new dogs and a tasty lunch. Thanking our porter crew, cooks, and guide, Alan Marghereti, we loaded the van and made our way towards paradise...AKA a fresh shower. Arriving at our hotel in Puebla, it was our first step towards no longer feeling like a piece of ash. After a quick breath of fresh air, a few light and carbonated beverages, and what feels like 3/4 of a pig, we are very excited to continue checking out the sights of Puebla tomorrow while we rest and try to keep our walking to a maximum of 2.5 Dom units.

(Poem title courtesy of Eric Obscherning)

RMI Guide Ben Luedtke and team

We woke before 8 AM a wash with a lingering sunrise. Hughes of pinks, oranges and blues, a stark contrast against the black volcanic dust around and below us at base camp. Within just a few minutes of the groups rousing the dust was above us too, as Popo erupted with fury, more violent than we've seen since arrival in Mexico, we watched as smoke and steam billowed into the sky, becoming a dark cloud inching in our direction while we hoped it was a good omen. lt certainly was a sobering one. A reminder that we are merely guests here in every sense.

We ate a hearty breakfast of refried beans, corn chips, eggs,  potatoes, and ham thanks to our team at Ixta base camp, coffee and tea were had as well. The anticipation and excitement among the group were as thick as the ash and at 10 AM we dawned our packs and jettisoned from the Basecamp led by our local guide Allan, 300 summits of Ixta, including many by running, with Dominic and Ben in the rear. We kept an eye on the clouds of smoke, but it didn't phase us on a spectacular and reasonably effortful climb to high camp at 14,500 ft we faced only a little
scree, and instead moved through an ocean of golden grass. Its fine blades seemed to hug us as we passed. People had the energy and breath to discuss life's most important philosophical questions like Buddhism, the true nature of millennials, and Gen Xers, and how one defines a soup versus a stew and what is chili and cereal with milk, and while we are still trying to determine the conversions for the Dominic unit, the climb was indeed three hours as promised, which was met by applause at high camp. We were greeted by the cheers, laughs and smiles of our incredible Porter team, who ran ahead of us to get camp ready for our arrival which marked personal high points for the majority of us.

We rested and relaxed, had a nourishing dinner of chicken Ramen, hot chocolate, cookies, and various preparations of, and some questionable, of spam, and after a final briefing retreated to our tents and sleeping  bags early in preparation for our Alpine start to the summit of Ixta.

RMI Climber, Eric Obscherning
 

Monday, February 26, 2024 - 5:20 pm PT

A long evening in La Malinche Parque Nationale cabins, late breakfast, and improved air quality revived the group, following what Dom had sold us as a “nothing conditioning stroll” on La Malinche volcano. We boarded our Sprinter van for the drive to Amecameca’s central plaza where we grazed the food stalls for lunch, and our guides bought huge jugs of water for our tent site at Ixta base camp.  The Sprinter took us to our next Parque National, Ixta-Popo, where we let Hecter drive our bags up to our base camp at 13,000 feet.  The couple hour walk up a trail was, this time, indeed a “stroll”.  Our local guide Allen, along with our cook, Rudolpho, and porters, Ali and Alejandro, greeted us happily, and then we focused on an intense gear check and pack planning session, followed by instructions in erecting the Trango tents.  Spaghetti for dinner, and several layers of down wrapped up our day.  Everyone is excited to carry our heavy packs up to Ixta’s High Camp tomorrow.

RMI Climber Katherine Jankaew 

"Pista!” 

“¡Venga!”

“¡Sí se puede!”

The hike up La Malinche gave our RMI crew a chance to stretch our legs (muchas gracias to our driver, Hector, for our safe travels from CDMX) as well as to practice our Spanish thanks to a race up and down the mountain that was happening during our acclimation hike.  

Our group went from 10,000 ft at the La Malinche resort to a near summit at 14,000ft. About half the crew tried to summit but were turned away by the local enforcers of summit attempts. 

In a few quick hours everyone was back at the resort and enjoying a delicious authentic Mexican meal prepared by the resort staff. 

Off to bed early and in the morning we will be back at it headed to Ixta base camp. 

“Watch the course!”

“Come on!” 

“Yes you can!” 

RMI Climber Jared Wood 

After two successful summits of La Malinche and Ixta, team Mexico Volcanoes took our show back on the road to the small town of Tlachachuca to prepare for our climb of 18,500' Pico de Orizaba. 

Our perfect sunny weather continued as we gear exploded and sorted on the lawn of our Mexican outfitter Servimont. After a quick lunch we loaded into the 4x4 trucks and 1964 Dodge Powerwagon that take us to our basecamp. A couple bouncy hours later, we unloaded, dusted off and set up the tents for a quick sleep. 

11:30pm dawned calm and star-lit, and we made quick work of the lower part of Orizaba. As we neared 17,000 feet, the sun came up and gave us the spectacular and classic pyramidal mountain shadow that Orizaba is famous for. 

As we climbed higher, it became clear that rumors of a very icy summit section were true. We watched as multiple teams above us on the steep summit headwall found more of the bullet-hard ice we’d found lower on the glacier, and winds strong enough to put them down on that ice multiple times. 

We had a chat as a group and concluded that our 18,000 foot high point (highest for all but the guides!) was certainly the best spot to turn around. It was a hard decision as Orizaba was our biggest goal. But ultimately we all agreed that safety on this huge exotic mountain was number one. 

We descended into a hot sunny afternoon and enjoyed our final evening with a delicious dinner, then made our way to the airport in the morning to some fond farewells. 

Until next time Orizaba!

Thanks to the team for a great trip and way too many memories to list here! 

RMI Guides Joe Hoch & Sam Hoffman

A needed rest, headed to Orizaba!

After our success on Ixta, Team Mexico Volcanoes settled into a very well deserved couple of nights and a day of rest in beautiful Puebla, Mexico. 

Everyone got some sleep, washed off the mountain, and checked out the colonial buildings and many cathedrals and artisan markets. 

After a great team dinner and another night of rest we got up early and hit the road to Tlachichuca, and our final and largest mountain, 18,500’ Pico de Orizaba. 

Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

100% Summit on Ixta!

After welcoming us to La Joya basecamp with a lovely warm sunset and delicious dinner from our Mexican host company, 17,160’ Ixtaccihuatl showed us that she is still a huge wild mountain. Out of the calm starry night sky, winds suddenly gusting 40-50mph forced us out of our sleeping bags and we scrambled to move our tents in the dark to the shelter of the old basecamp refugio. But our crew laughed it off as ‘adventure!’ And the next two days on the mountain showed everyone what a Mexican wilderness alpine experience can be. Complete with a spectacular high camp, billowing ash from our volcanic neighbor Popocatéptl, and the best sunset some of us have ever seen. 

On summit morning the crew climbed strong and right before sunrise, 100% of the team stood on Ixta’s summit. A new high point for the majority of the team!

We’re headed now to the colorful colonial city of Puebla, where we’ll enjoy a well earned rest day and prepare for 18,500’ Orizaba. 

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

A La Malinche summit!

Yesterday team Mexico Volcanos got up early and left Mexico City, hoping for an early departure from the trailhead for our first volcano, 14500 foot La Malinche. 

Recently, the Policía de Montaña, some of whom carry inappropriately large machine guns(tough to argue with), have been quite strict about turning all climbers around at 2pm, no matter your location or fancy technical outerwear. They mean well, as many folks attempt this very large mountain in jeans and street shoes, and seemingly no water or food. With our drive from Mexico City, it would be a push to make it, but the team was willing.

We left the park entrance with 4,500 feet to cover at around 11:30am. The team understood that it would be a little faster pace than normal to make it happen and evade la Policía, but they were up for it. 

At 3 pm, 3.5 hours and 4,500 feet later, we scrambled to the rocky summit of La Malinche with a beautiful view and not a cloud in the sky. There stood a single Policía de Montaña, who said simply, “Bajo por favor, ahora! (Down please, now!).”

We negotiated quickly for, “Solo una foto?(Just one photo?).” He was grumpy but willing, and as we took one picture of the team on the summit, the views were incredible of Volcan Iztaccihautl and Orizaba, our next two volcanos. 

Once we left the strict gaze of our friendly Policía on the summit, we were able to take some well earned relaxing breaks on our descent and enjoy the company of our new mountain dog friends, who showed us a thing or two about negotiating the loose boulder fields. 

A customary feast of barbecued steak and cactus tacos awaited us at our cabins in the forest below La Malinche, and it was an early bedtime!

The crew is super excited for our successful summit, and ready to hit the road and head to our next adventure, 17,159' Volcan Iztaccihautl!

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

And we're off!

The Mexico Volcanos crew arrived last night to the Hotel Geneve in Mexico City. After some introductions, we made our way to a local taco spot and chatted about our upcoming trip. 

This morning the crew was up early and ready to head to our first volcano, La Malinche. 

Many more tacos and mountains await!

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

The team stood on top of Pico de Orizaba at 7:30 this morning. We had calm air and partly clear skies to begin our hike up the steep moraine trail. Once in the labyrinth the trail was covered in firm snow & ice, which was unexpected based on how dry the surrounding area was. The team was moving up the glacier around 5 am. Once on the summit the pyramid shadow cast by the rising sun greeted everyone and was a highlight of the trip. The descent is always hard on toes and knees but we got back to Piedra Grande hut and packed up for the bumpy ride down in the trucks. 

We are back in Sr. Reyes’ hostel and packed for flights tomorrow afternoon. This has been a great trip with a stellar group of climbers, especially since we had summits on Ixta via a forgotten route and a classic Orizaba summit day. Thanks for following along.  

RMI Guide Mike King

Photo credit: Mike Greene