Entries from Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Sunday, July 1, 2018 - 11:14 PM PT This was the day we were looking for. Even so, it looked a little gusty up high at first, so we dragged our feet a little and lingered over breakfast. The sun hit at 9:30 and we got walking at 10:30. Our goal, of course, was to carry food and supplies up onto the West Buttress and to establish a cache that will help us when we commit to moving up to 17,000 ft. But our goal was also to get familiar with the steep part of this climb -the fixed ropes- and to build on our acclimatization by getting a good workout in at altitude. We did all of that today. Things were slightly on the crowded side, but that didn’t give us much trouble in the end. It is close to the end of the Denali climbing season, now that we are in July, but the last 100 or so climbers all flew on at once due to the five day storm that preceded our arrival. And we’ve mostly been on the same travel schedules since those 100 folks are all in various guided parties. But we know and like many of the people so it hasn’t -to this point- seemed so crowded. But all those folks needing to get on the same ropes to reach the crest of the West Buttress means that some patience will be required. We turned out to be patient today, waiting our turn, but it wasn’t so hard to be that way in sunny, pleasant weather and with fantastic scenery all around. The upside for us was that the teams ahead of us kicked a perfect staircase in the snow up the steep headwall. We topped out at 16,200 in surprisingly fine conditions -the exposed ridge crest can often be cold and windy. As it was 3 PM we declared victory and established a cache -burying it all to keep our supplies from the ravens. Our descent was smooth and easy since we now had the whole place to ourselves. We were back down to camp by 5 PM and relaxing over dinner a couple of hours later. Rest day tomorrow and then up for good. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad your climb is going good! Hannah, looking forward to talking to you and seeing your pictures!

Posted by: Shannon Smith on 7/3/2018 at 11:28 am

I’m SO excited for you guys! How fabulous the weather is helping!! Keep pushing…not long now

Posted by: Sue Mamer on 7/2/2018 at 9:08 pm

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Venture to the Edge of the World

July 1, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello, Nikki Champion

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 30th - 10:30 pm PT The snow quit abruptly last night at around 11 PM after about a foot of new. Forecasts called for more snow today -about a 70 percent chance of it. So we were on our guard. But this day dawned crisp cold and clear above us (with a sea of cloud below). For various reasons we opted not to pull the trigger on our carry today... there were traffic jams and a lot of new snow to wallow through. For exercise and a thrill, we roped up and ventured over to the “edge of the world” a rock outcrop at the edge of Genet Basin. From that edge, the world drops vertically for four thousand feet to a branch of the NE Kahiltna Glacier. We stepped out to the apex of rock overhanging the drop and mugged for photos while the clouds swirled in and out mysteriously. The afternoon ended up restful and pleasant... and not so snowy. We’ll be ready to climb tomorrow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

SWEET! So glad to hear the weather is cooperating

Posted by: Sue Mamer on 7/2/2018 at 8:28 am

I cant imagine the experience and beauty you are all having! So Awesome! Climb high Tom!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 7/2/2018 at 5:10 am

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Still Headed Home

June 30, 2018

Elevation: 11,200'

Saturday, June 30, 2018 - 8:25 pm PT The weather clearing did not happen until late last night, so we could not make a break to Basecamp. The clear weather did make for a great rest day at 11,000' camp. We slept in and enjoyed the sunshine while we gathered our strength for one long and final push to the the snowy airstrip. The team is in great spirits and ready to get back to summer and away from days filled with snow! Keep your fingers crossed for clear, flying kind of weather for us tomorrow! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Super Crew 6

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We’re on our way to Colorado! Finish strong, David and Super Crew 6! So ready to hear your stories and toast to your amazing journey.

Posted by: Nancie Summerlin on 7/1/2018 at 10:37 am

Come on home Super Crew!!! We miss you Shannon nd can not wait to hear your voice Love you Mom

Posted by: Linda Walsh on 7/1/2018 at 5:12 am

Denali Expediton: Haugen & Team Moving Down the Mountain

June 30, 2018

Elevation: 11,200'

Saturday June 30, 2018 12:54 AM PST We are headed home... Slowly. We woke up to pretty big winds and blowing snow at 17k camp this morning. Our desired early start turned into an afternoon departure when the weather finally gave in enough for us to descend. We had a great climb down to 14k camp where we crossed paths with Dave Hahn and his crew. It was great to see them and we hope they get the same kind of summit day that we got to experience! After picking up some cached gear and food from 14k, we made our way through some snowy weather to 11k camp. The Super Crew did a great job keeping it strong on this very long day! Even though the weather does not look to cooperate with us for a Basecamp dash tomorrow, we are in positioned to make it there when it is time to fly! I think I can speak for the entire Super Crew 6 when I say we are sick of snow! RMI Super Crew 6

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Proud for your accomplishment…...What an adventure, something that some people only dream about !

You had a Great Team of Mountaineers to be able to stay the course.. Have a safe trip home..

Grams

Posted by: Barbara Jones on 6/30/2018 at 10:11 pm

I’m so awed by this accomplishment. I plan to share the blog with my English students in the fall when they read the novel, “Peak.” Godspeed for the journey down the mountain.

Posted by: Laura Seasongood on 6/30/2018 at 8:47 am

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Take a Snow Day

June 30, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello, Nikki Champion

Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, June 29, 2018 9:53 PM PST We weren’t feeling it today. Although we’d prepared to carry up onto the West Buttress, the morning weather didn’t look all that inviting. We watched and waited and ate breakfast, but then declared a rest day. The forecasts had predicted a snowstorm coming onto the mountain and we figured they were getting it right this time. Luckily though, it came in slowly enough for Mike Haugen and his team to climb down from 17 camp. We were certainly happy to see them pass through 14 in the latter part of the afternoon. The really heavy snow began to fall just as they were leaving to go a little lower. It seemed to be coming down at about three inches an hour while we were eating dinner in our well fortified dining tent. The good news is that it is coming down without any wind... so far. By bedtime we could hear avalanches beginning to pour down regularly on the steep -and thankfully distant- slopes surrounding our flat basin. We’ll each be taking turns digging out the camp tonight. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

That is a lot of snowfall. Back in the lower 48, a one inch per hour qualifies as a snow emergency. Stay safe all of you and hopefully by the time you read this, you will on your way again.

Posted by: Roger Coffey on 7/1/2018 at 8:02 am

So proud of all of you and happy things are going well! Wish I was there. It won’t be long now before you’re all standing on the Summit!
Love,
Sue

Posted by: Sue Mamer on 6/30/2018 at 10:07 pm

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Return to High Camp After Summit

June 29, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen

Elevation: 17,000'

Friday, June 29, 2018 - 1:09 AM PT RMI Super Crew got to the summit of Denali around 6 pm today. The weather was amazing all day and we all walked to the top in just base layers, which you would imagine is rare when climbing big mountains in Alaska. Mountaineers don't cry... everybody knows that. However, all of our eyes were awfully sweaty when we reached the top and saw the spectacular scenery below! We had a very safe climb back to high camp and a are currently working on getting into our sleeping bags for some well earned sleep. RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations ! ! ! The song “I can only imagine” comes to mind…... Another dream has come true, achieving this is such an accomplishment.. Cudo’s to a strong team, that overcame and conquered ! Love to you all ....Have a safe trip descending.. Wish I could be there to greet you and to celebrate with you…..

Grams

Posted by: Barbara Jones on 6/30/2018 at 5:40 am

Congratulations Josh, Rusty, Craig and the entire crew! Can’t wait to hear all about your amazing adventure!

Josh, love you and can’t wait to see you!

Posted by: Sarah Levy on 6/29/2018 at 3:38 pm

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Retrieve Carry and Train at 14,000’ Camp

June 29, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello, Nikki Champion

Elevation: 14,000'

Thursday, June 28, 2018 - 10:32 PM PT Our first night at 14,000' Camp was quiet and calm. The tent fabric didn’t stir even once with breeze. We were up at around 8AM even though things are still a little shadowy and cold here then. After breakfast, Avery Parrinello led the day’s carry, or more accurately the back carry, since we were going back down to 13,500 ft to bring home the cache we walked past yesterday. It only took about 20 minutes to walk down, but perhaps 90 minutes to come back up with heavy packs. As usual, it clouded up and began snowing on us before we’d gone too far, but that wasn’t much of a problem. The snow continued through the afternoon, but by then we were lounging in our tents. Just before dinner we did a little training session to discuss techniques we’ll employ to climb the “fixed ropes” that lead to the crest of the West Buttress. Throughout the day we touched base with the only other RMI group on the hill, Mike Haugen’s team who were going for the top. It all made our preparations a bit more meaningful to know we’ll be up there knocking on the door soon ourselves. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

J and M-

Thinking of you guys often from sunny/hot Wisconsin. While we soak up the lake views we imagine the mountain scapes before you. (We also think about getting some fresh turns in that powder.)

Enjoy the challenge and the sounds of nature. Wish you the best.

The Merkleins

Posted by: Merklein family on 6/30/2018 at 5:59 am

Hey Tom! Awesome job so far! I’m torked up to hear about the fixed lines when you get to the next camp. I wish I was on your team brother!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/29/2018 at 5:34 pm

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Call from The Summit!

June 28, 2018

Elevation: 20,310'

Thursday, June 28, 2018 - 7:11 PM PT Hi - this is Mike Haugen with RMI Super Crew. We just summited Denali! We are standing at over 20,000 feet with zero wind, 0 miles per hour, 5 degreess Fahrenheit. Every single one of us is up here in our base layer. Views are incredible. Wish you were here! We love all of you and thanks for your support. We are going to have a fun trip down and we will be back in camp at 17,000'. Congratulations to Mike Haugen & the RMI Team!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen calls from the summit of Denali.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

My heart continues to swell with pride for all that my son SCOTT has accomplished this past 12 months

Posted by: Roger Coffey on 6/29/2018 at 7:54 am

Congrats you all, that is super exciting. Enjoy and soak up all the goodness of your time together as a kick ass team on your decent.

Posted by: Sabrina on 6/29/2018 at 7:22 am

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Pounce on the Opportunity to Move to 14,000’

June 28, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello, Nikki Champion

Elevation: 14,000'

Wednesday, June 27, 2018 - 10:11 PM PT Hey from 14K. We got an excellent day for moving up. When the 6 AM alarm went off down at 11,000', we peered out to see clear skies and no signs of wind. We pounced on the opportunity, hitting the trail at 9 AM. Hannah Smith led the charge today, bringing the team expeditiously up Motorcycle Hill, The Squirrel Hills and then the Polo Field. Just like when we carried, it began to cloud up as we approached Windy Corner and to snow as we went around. We moved right on past our cache site, which appears to be resisting the ravages of the ravens (we buried it deep in the snow). Hannah got us into camp at 14,000' in a very respectable 5 hours and 45 minutes. The tents went up fast and easy and about the time we’d completed setup, the snow quit. As we ate dinner, the clouds melted away and when we emerged from our deluxe dining shelter, we were treated to new and spectacular views in every direction. Foraker and Hunter, the other two giants of the Alaska Range were visible -for the first time- in all their glory. But it was the view of Denali, rising straight up in front of us for a vertical mile and more that took our breath away. Our world is now bound on the left by the West Buttress and on the right by the West Rib... which covers a lot of fascinating and historic... and slightly intimidating terrain. Just before bedtime, we listened to the weather outlook, broadcast via radio from Basecamp and more importantly to the trivia question for the night. Did you know that there are 21 bears for every human in Alaska? Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

‘Enjoying the updates, wishing you continued safe travel and good weather! ‘Looking forward to hearing about your adventures in person when you return to WI!

Posted by: Terri Ellis on 6/29/2018 at 4:24 am

Your Swiss genes are showing in this hike and Fritz would be so proud! Stay safe and enjoy!

Posted by: Kathy Roelli on 6/28/2018 at 10:02 pm

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Move to High Camp

June 27, 2018

Elevation: 17,200'

Wednesday, June 27, 2018 - 8:39 pm PT As mountaineers, we tend to take things one day at a time. It just so happens that this was one of the best climbing days ever. After an early start, we climbed into the gorgeous sunshine that we have not had enough of this trip. The views of the glaciers below and the rocky ridge we were ascending made for stunning photos and memories we will not soon forget! We are pretty sure that Joe Horiskey scheduled a fly-by and wing wave from a F-35 fighter jet just as we topped out on the fixed line! Spectacular!!! We are currently residing at 17k Camp in the late evening sunshine. This camp stays particularly sunny since there is not much above us to block the Alaskan midnight sun. Our plan is to go to the summit tomorrow if the mountain allows us! I think the mountain may owe us a good weather summit day after all the Super Crew has been through so far. We will see if Denali agrees!? RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew 6

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hope all the hard work and preparation paid off today with a successful “visit” to the summit.
Congrats to all for what you have accomplished.

Posted by: Molly Frishmuth on 6/28/2018 at 6:35 pm

Josh, rooting for you and the team for a great summit day. Very proud of you. Love following the team’s progress. Will talk soon. Much love from Mom and Dad

Posted by: David Levy on 6/28/2018 at 10:24 am