Entries from Denali

Saturday, July 1, 2023 1:12 AM PDT

Right on schedule, the clouds cleared out and the wind dropped down. First nice day we've had, actually. We used it well. The team made the jump to 17,200' feet. It was tough climbing and the packs got even bigger and heavier when we stopped at 16,200' feet to add yesterday's loads. But we got 'r done. The views were amazing, considering that the team really hadn't seen much of our surroundings yet. We have a forecast of fine weather tomorrow. Perhaps we go up.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Thursday, June 29, 2023 10:25 pm PDT

Not much of a break in the weather today but we made the best of it. We watched, waited, and slow-rolled and then went for it, leaving camp at noon.  There was still snow falling, but the wind had quit. We trudged up to the fixed lines and then ascended them with little difficulty, reaching 16,200 ft. Nobody got to enjoy the spectacular views as we were still locked in cloud and snow, but we cached our supplies and dropped back down, reaching camp at 6PM.

Hoping for some clearing tomorrow (as usual) we would like to move to 17,200ft.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team

As we arose from our tents again at 14,000’ camp, fresh snow covered everything as if a frozen Baja Blast machine broke in the middle of the night and began spewing as far as the eye could see.

Today marked a choice, go for it, and continue up beautiful Denali, or stay here at14,000’ Camp for another night, and wait for a better window. Upon first view of the surroundings, the choice was clear, spend one more day resting. This journey has been largely about patience, especially these last few days, but we are on the home stretch now, also just days away now from returning to civilization…

All the fish tacos, burritos and fajitas, Doritos, and Fritos, and Cheetos, pizza, burgers and glizzies and frozen margaritas All these and more, await at Talkeetna

Climber Joey Myers & Team

Wednesday, June 28, 2023 - 10:39 pm PT

Our climb yesterday earned us a well deserved rest day. After sleeping in we were awoken to some delicious extra cheesy breakfast burritos. This was followed by a musical production of “These Boots Were Made For Climbing” by the soon to be famous Denali 10 (look for us on TikTok). Stay tuned for our upcoming show “Dancing on Denali”, which will include some tasteful  nude scenes as well. The rest of our day was spent relaxing as we look forward to beginning our summit push either tomorrow or Friday.

RMI Climber Mark Kulow

Wednesday, June 28, 2023 - 9:41 pm PT

We celebrated Tibor's birthday with a storm day and a no-bake cheesecake.  Familiar weather to us, clouds and snow with winds aloft kept us confined to 14,000ft Camp. We slept, we ate, we dug snow and cut snow blocks. We talked and we read... we passed time.  Looking forward to going climbing again when the storm quits.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Tuesday, June 28, 2023 - 9:28 pm PT

We set out on our quest to get a load of supplies onto the West Buttress but the weather deteriorated steadily as we climbed. At 15,400 ft we decided to turn. We set a few personal altitude records, but it was just short of the fixed rope section we had been hoping to climb today. We returned to camp in light snowfall. The afternoon became a quiet napping contest in the tents. We'll try again when we get a break in the storm.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Tuesday, June 27, 2023 - 8:25 am PT

The morning started out cold, crisp, and clear. Excitement was in the air - today we were climbing.

We ascended the steep snow up to 15,700. For some, each step was a new highest altitude ever climbed, while for others the thin air was all too familiar. Looking up, we could see the two ropes poking out of a steep slope of blue ice and wind blown snow. Looking down, through the clouds that had rolled in, glimpses of our camp could be seen far below. One by one, we attached ourselves to the fixed lines with ascenders. Initially cautious and unsteady, we soon found our footing and got into the groove - one duck step after the other. Nearing the top, the wind had picked up, and it was decided around 16,100 to descend back to camp - our mission of acclimatizing and experiencing the fixed ropes accomplished. Heading down the lines was exhilarating; facing downhill with one arm ensnared around the rope, we leaned forward and let gravity do the work. Relaxing in camp the rest of the day, we all felt prepared and ready - hopefully awaiting our chance to climb higher in the coming days.

RMI Climber Alex Smith

Monday, June 26, 2023 - 10:47 pm PT

We continue to wait and be patient as less then ideal weather hangs onto Denali.  Another breakfast of bagels and locks was well received by the team and has helped to keep spirits high.  Waiting and being patient is an often overlooked skill necessary for expeditionary climbing. Our team is leaning wholeheartedly into this.  After more rest the afternoon was filled with fixed line training In preparation for our continued ascent.  Hopes are high for an opportunity to carry and climb above the fixed lines.

RMI Guide Seth Burns

Monday, June 26, 2023 - 9:44 pm PT

As expected, the weather was still a little "off" today, with lots of cloud and some wind up high, but it was definitely improving. We took it easy this morning but got in a training session in the afternoon, reviewing techniques we hope to employ tomorrow when we go for a carry, attempting to put supplies at 16,200 ft. This evening, some of the high cloud finally cleared out and the team got to see mountains Hunter and Foraker along with a magnificent view straight up at Denali. 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Sunday, June 25, 2023 - 10:07 pm PT

Storm day at 14k.  Snow and cloud all over camp and thankfully just an odd gust of wind every now and then. But all day long we could hear the wind ripping across the ridges up high, sounding like Niagara Falls. We ate long slow meals, took long naps, moved some snow blocks around and read some books.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn