We had a great sunny day today and we took advantage of it by carrying a cache of gear to approximately 16,700' on the West Buttress proper, just below a prominent rock called Washburn's Thumb.
In order to get there we climbed up the head wall on the north side of camp and ascended approximately 800' of steep, 50 degree ice with the help of fixed ropes and mechanical ascenders. The views were phenomenal. And everyone did very well with their first experience on the fixed ropes.
We were out for eight hours today (ascending, descending, digging a hole for our cache, and relaxing up high on the ridge), and everyone is a little tuckered out from the long day and high altitude. That's to be expected, though. We'll take at least a full rest day to recover. Now we're in position to wait for a good weather window to move to high camp and go for the summit. It looks like the next few days will be pretty windy up high, so we'll be in a holding pattern until the weather improves. In the meantime we will be resting, eating, and mentally preparing for the strenuous climbing ahead of us.
Also, I spoke with RMI Guide Billy Nugent via radio tonight. Apparently they are having technical difficulties and are unable to send email dispatches (their sat phone still works for communication though). They are camped at 9600' and doing well. They plan to move to to Camp 3 (11,200') tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Kenny, God speed and wish you well to the summitt. take care.
Your brother brian, jeannie, matt, and tasha
Posted by: brian young on 5/16/2011 at 2:06 pm
Hi Jeff! Glad to hear things are going well and you are feeling great. Stay focused and I can’t wait to see you. I miss and love you lots! Good news the Bulls beat the heat tonight 103-82, you would have loved it!
-Erica
Hey, this is the Alaska Seminar checking in from the Kahiltna Base Camp. Today we went out on the Kahiltna Glacier and did a nice glacier tour for a few hours. Went around the beautiful Mt. Francis and also did some knot training, sled rigging and lots of fun stuff here. Beautiful weather on the Kahiltna and tomorrow looks to be the same. Wish us luck with good weather.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
We broke out of base camp bright and early enjoying bluebird perfection walking up the Kahiltna today. Wasn't too hot nor too cold and virtually windless. Six hours of walking brought us to base camp at 7,800' at the base of Ski Hill. The team is strong, moving well, and having a great time thus far. After chowing down on a great beef stew dinner, we shut down camp and crawled into our tents just as the sun went behind the mountains and the chill set in. Time for some well-earned rest after hauling up big loads. We'll check in again tomorrow from our next stop along the way.
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Solveig Garhart and the rest of the crew
The weather was splitter today at Camp 4; cloudless skies, warm temps, and no wind. We took a rest day today and prepared for our carry of food and fuel for high camp, which will hopefully happen tomorrow. The weather forecast looks promising.
In addition to resting, we took a fifteen minute walk over to The Edge of the World, a spectacular veiwpoint that is situated at the far south side of Genet Basin. From here we could see nearly straight down 6,000' to our first camp of the trip, some nine days ago. The team is acclimating well to the altitude, and everyone's spirits are high.
Thanks for checking in on our trip; we'll keep you up to date with our progress.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
This is the RMI seminar, the Alaska seminar checking in. We awoke to another cloudless morning in Talkeetna. After eating breakfast at the Road House, we flew into base camp and were quickly boot packing a trail to our camp. After two hours of setting up camp, several helicopters passed through the southeast fork in the valley of the Kahiltna Glacier. As we continue to set up our camp and move in, the weather could not have been better. We spent a lot of time outside of our tents taking in the beautiful scenery. Everyone's doing great and excited to be here up on the Kahiltna Glacier up in Alaska. We'll check in tomorrow and hopefully have some good weather, more training. Take care.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
Everyone did well on our first night sleeping above 14,000'. We spent the bulk of the day working around camp, building snow walls for protection from the wind, and digging out our kitchen. We also hiked back down to retrieve our cache at 13,600'.
Tomorrow we will rest and prepare for taking a cache of food and fuel to high camp. The weather forecast is calling for warmer temperatures, and we're all looking forward to that.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Greetings from beautiful Kahiltna Base Camp! Despite breezy conditions this morning the guys at K2 Aviation were able to get us on the glacier later this morning. We spent the rest of the afternoon setting up a simple camp and getting everything ready to head out on the route early tomorrow morning. The views on the flight in were spectacular as always but this time especially so because there wasn't a cloud in the sky. The team has been hanging out and soaking in the immensity of our new environs. We'll check in tomorrow from our next camp around 7,800' or so.
Ciao for now,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Hello everyone!
Billy here checking in for the rest of the crew after the first official day of our Denali expedition. Today's theme: attention to detail. Lots of packing- group gear, food, hardware, clothing systems, etc. etc. After a great orientation with the park service this afternoon the team tied up all the loose ends and we are officially ready to rock and roll. Tomorrow morning we are hoping to fly in to Kahiltna Base earlier rather later but that is contingent upon the winds. The weather should be clear but possibly a bit breezy. Regardless, the pilots at K2 seem optimistic about getting onto the mountain tomorrow.
Wish us luck!
Mike would also like to make a shout out to his grandfather. He's thinking of you.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
This is Ed and Seth checking in from 14,200 feet on Denali. Today we dropped 750 vertical feet back down the route to pick up our cache of food and fuel. It took us an hour and a half round trip. The weather has been great all day. We are now well positioned to begin climbing on the upper mountain.
RMI Guides Ed Viesturs and Seth Waterfall
We woke this morning to very cold temperatures and gusty winds, but clear skies at Camp 3. After breakfast we packed up the tents and headed out; the wind had quit and the weather was beautiful as we headed up Motorcycle Hill and then Squirrel Hill. It even got hot as we climbed toward Windy Corner.
We are now in our new home, Camp 4 (14,200'). We will go back to Windy Corner tomorrow to retrieve the cache of gear we left there 2 days ago. Everyone climbed well and we're cozy in our sleeping bags trying to get used to this new altitude.
My fingers are cold as I type this, so that's it for now. I'll be in touch again tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
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Kenny, God speed and wish you well to the summitt. take care.
Your brother brian, jeannie, matt, and tasha
Posted by: brian young on 5/16/2011 at 2:06 pm
Hi Jeff! Glad to hear things are going well and you are feeling great. Stay focused and I can’t wait to see you. I miss and love you lots! Good news the Bulls beat the heat tonight 103-82, you would have loved it!
-Erica
Posted by: Erica on 5/15/2011 at 7:31 pm
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