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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Locked and Loaded, Luggaged Lugged

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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June 12, 2014 - 9:47 pm PT Climbing in Alaska, so close to the Arctic circle is never an easy task. Formidable and imposing features surround the landscape we travel through. Climbing, especially on "The High One" presents the added challenge of high winds, low temperatures, and high altitude. Today, we awoke to one of these elements; low temperatures. It makes for a unique challenge when faced with the need to begin the days work. Forcing ones self to leave the warm cocoon you have been comfortably nestled in all night. We began our day with a warm dose of oatmeal and hot drinks, and soon took off towards the fixed lines that lay above our current camp at 14,000 feet, in Genet Basin. As an expedition this was our first time above our current camp. As we struck out from camp we welcomed the warmth of the sun on our backs. After climbing to the base of the fixed lines, we began our steepest climbing of the day. Travel was smooth and the reality of the climbing set in. From the top of the fixed lines we ran the ridge of the West Buttress and made efficient work to the base of "The Thumb," at 16,700'. We created a cache of food and some personal items needed for high camp and our summit attempt. From our cache we retraced our steps back to camp. The team made quick work of dinner and now are fast asleep. For now we wait and rest, ready to launch. All we need is a window and bang! We're off. Keep it locked in... RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jen - Way to go! Fixed lines - it’s getting real. I know you’re doing awesome. Can’t wait to hear all about it when you get back.

Posted by: Nicole on 6/13/2014 at 8:17 pm

Hi Will! I got your postcard of Denali yesterday! Such a sweet surprise - I’m praying for you and missing you! The a/c at the office is nothing compared to your frigid temps but know that I’m shivering with u and dreaming of the day I can go to Alaska w u! Remember the anchorage guy in the RV we met in the parking lot of lake Louise? Good mems! Luv u big time - da wife.

Posted by: Christine on 6/13/2014 at 9:26 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team on Mountain Time

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

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June 12, 2014 - 9:02 pm PT RMI Team Haugen is at Kahiltna Basecamp. We departed just before 9:00 am from Talkeetna as the weather was clearing and Denali was looming in the distance. We have taken the day to organize our gear and get a plan together to tackle the lower glacier. Basecamp is in good shape with all of the new snowfall and we are excited to head out towards Camp 1 at 7,800' on the Kahiltna Glacier. We plan on leaving basecamp very early since it did get pretty warm during midday today. The adventure begins! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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Bruce & Michael - You’re living the life you love & loving the life you live. GOOD LUCK to your entire team!  xo Jen

Posted by: Jen Bush on 6/13/2014 at 6:17 pm

Dear Bruce and Michael,
It is great to see you “climbing” your dream.  Sending you well wishes,
Kathy

Posted by: Kathy Damico on 6/13/2014 at 2:59 pm

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Mt.McKinley: Haugen & Team Fly onto the Glacier!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,200'

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June 12, 2014 9:20am PT It looks like we got lucky with the weather and found ourselves a day to fly! The mountain is visible from Talkeetna which seems like it is a rarity this season. All systems go! RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Onward & Upward Bruce!

Posted by: Cheryl & Ken on 6/26/2014 at 12:19 am

Wow Bruce! You are there. Wait a minute. The tail of the plane behind you says “K2”. Are you in Pakistan? :)

Posted by: Kris McCann on 6/13/2014 at 3:35 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 11,200’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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June 12, 2014 10:22am PT Yesterday was a great day. After a few storm days at the base of ski hill, the weather let us leave camp. Waking early we set off in good walking temps but no visibility for higher on glacier. The snow was deep and as the first team to make the move, we enjoyed breaking trail for a few hours before the skies cleared and a descending team provided a nicely broken trail. The views were spectacular and honestly the clearest of the whole trip. The team put in a big day yesterday and are enjoying a leisurely morning here at 11,200 before back carrying later today to pick up our cache at 9700. RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck to the guides and team!
So glad to hear you could move up.
love you Dawn and all the others!

Mom.

Posted by: Hye Kim on 6/13/2014 at 10:28 am

Good luck to the guides and all their charges! I hope everyone is well and the views continue to be awe inspiring and frequent.          i
IL Padrino

Posted by: padrino on 6/13/2014 at 9:29 am

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team takes Weather Day at 14,000’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

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June 11, 2014 10:53pm PT We awoke this morning to clear skies and the sound of howling wind thrashing the mountain above us. It was a cold day at 14 camp despite the winds easing a bit in the afternoon. We finished building our snow walls and made some snow statues- a mailbox and planter among them. At 3:00 pm the winds had let up enough that we took a walk to the Edge of the World, a vista point on the 14k bench. The forecast is looking better and we are hopeful that we can get a cache up on the Rib tomorrow. Thanks for following along with us. RMI Guides Eric, Geoff and The UWR Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Dr. Bruce Freedman, Love the beard. You guys look great. What a view you have. Stay warm and post some more pics… David

Posted by: David Hart on 6/13/2014 at 2:48 am

Good work gentlemen!

John, your fantasy baseball team is doing phenominal, the first goal of the world cup was an own-goal, and I left a basball game in the middle of the 14th inning only to hear the fireworks of a walk-off homer in the parking lot. Stay safe-ish, take lots of photos, and enjoy your time on the mountian.

Cash

Posted by: Clay Rogers on 6/12/2014 at 9:40 pm

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McKinley: Jones & Team Cold Temps & Wind = Another Rest Day

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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June 11, 2014 3:14pm PT Greetings from Team No Troubles, Sitting here for another rest day at 14,200'. Cold temperatures and steady wind have been the story of the day, and we made the right decision to stand by for the time being. Last night saw the mercury plummet to an ambient temp of -17F, which is much more common up here in April than it is in June. Combine that temp with winds in camp of about 15mph and you have a recipe for immediate freezing of any exposed skin, as the wind chill hovers somewhere between -45 and -50F. Brrrrr shiver! So instead of our planned carry to the top of the fixed lines, we'll stay in camp today, on a steady orbit around our posh and sleeping tents. The team is on guard against any uninvited trespassing into our bathroom, too, as we've had more than one inquiry from other folks about using our lovely on-mountain comfort station. Keep sending warm thoughts, and hopefully warmer weather, our way! Keep the comments coming too, we love to hear from y'all. From a frosty 14K camp. RMI Guides Bryan, Tyler, Garrett and the No Troubles Crew
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hope you get to see “Edge of the World” !!!

Posted by: Matt on 6/12/2014 at 8:09 pm

Hey Jake love the pictures. It’s only 60 degrees today here back in Minneapolis. Have fun and keep warm.  Auntie Joan

Posted by: joan Hansen on 6/12/2014 at 3:40 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Continue to Wait For Better Weather

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

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June 10, 2014 - 10:33 pm PT Can you guess where we are? Yes, 7,800' camp on Mt. McKinley. The snows continue to blow up glacier and keep us from advancing higher on the mountain. The team is doing a fantastic job staying dug out and keeping spirits high. We have plenty of food and fuel, we just need to the weather to allow us to go a little higher. It will and all we need is a little patience. Wish us luck. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Scott Thinking about you and wish you the best.  Ben

Posted by: Ben on 6/15/2014 at 12:12 am

Hey J-Rod are you going to summit that?  Whin misses you…well at least I think thats what her hissing at me means, haha. I’m eating all of Rice Crispies at your house FYI. They are delicious. Catch you on the flip side brother.

Posted by: Gunter on 6/12/2014 at 6:30 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Acclimating in the Arctic

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 4:10 PT The first real weather day for us this trip. The overnight temps dropped to -7F not including the wind chill. Our early morning plans to move a few items for caching up to our high camp were foiled by the high winds -- 35mph winds at 17,200' and negative temps! Not to mention the squalls of crystalline snow flakes flying in all directions. The sun peered out from the flanks of the west rib shedding enough solar rays to warm the tents. With the brim of a ball cap we scraped the tent walls free of the frost of our night's breathing. Lighting the stoves in our kitchen tent soon brought the smells of coffee, bacon, and cream cheese with bagels. This motivated our spirits to make our camp a fortress. We spent two hours building large block walls and remodeling the bathroom -- which, I might add, could be the best one currently on the mountain featuring a snow free enclosed taj ma-stall! Not to mention the fact that RMI Guide Bryan Hendrick took on a project to expand and improve an igloo just outside camp...soon we'll have a monstrous underground lair for additional resting and wind protection. Sick! We are now taking a rest, drying out and warming up after a great session. The wall building serves as great acclimatization through light exercise, team building, and making camp even better for this time we're spending in this harsh Arctic environment. We will keep our hopes high for lighter winds, less snow, and a bit of warmth. RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Bryan Hendrick, and the crew!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Daveed,  You guys are all crazy (amy) however Bud wants to be there, he thinks it is hot here. Hope you are having fun. I can’t send you too much warm weather or I will freeze (amy). See you soon.

Posted by: BUD/AMY on 6/12/2014 at 6:11 pm

Dave, We’re waiting for summer to start, but our chilly 62 degrees must sound balmy to you.  Think summer thoughts.  Stay safe…

Patty

Posted by: Patty on 6/12/2014 at 5:37 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Remain at 7,800’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

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June 9, 2014 - 9:52 pm PT The team remained at 7,800' on Mt. McKinley and chalked it up to a weather day. Apparently they spent the day composing poetry. A copy of their work is below: We're below Ski Hill Snowing, blowing, eating here Hope to move up soon! Cheers from 7800, Katie, Leon, Jake, and Crew RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Katie Bono

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

How about posting a group picture with the guides in front?
I want to see all you mountain climbers.

Posted by: scott's mom on 6/11/2014 at 1:11 pm

Curious about what you all do all day waiting for the snow to blow over ?  Wishing you sunshine all the way to the top! Missing you Scotter Potter! 
Love, mom

Posted by: scott's mom on 6/11/2014 at 1:08 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Rest at 14,200’ Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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Today was a pretty chill day for team No Troubles here at 14,200'. We took the concept of a rest day very seriously, and slept in until the sun hit the tents late this morning. Breakfast was a delicious combination of retort eggs/bacon/sausage/gravy meals and freshly fried hash browns with cheese. The hot coffee was the perfect complement to our leisurely meal, and we waddled out of the posh sufficiently stuffed for the morning. After a couple of hours of relaxation, we took some time to refresh our skills with the ascenders for the fixed lines, as well as practice for the running belays we'll encounter up on the West Buttress. The afternoon's weather turned a little more arctic, and we crawled into our tents after dinner to escape the frigid temps (-5F) and the blowing snow. For now, we're hoping for a break tomorrow morning so we can get our cache up onto the buttress. But as we all know, the weather has the ultimate say up here, so we'll make a game time decision in the morning. Thinking warm thoughts from 14 camp, ta ta for now! RMI Guides Garrett, Tyler, Bryan, and the team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Team No Troubles!  Good work, good food, good camaraderie… Leaving in the morning for Anchorage, will wave from the airplane; thinking of you Will…
Cathy & Elizabeth

Posted by: Cathy Lambert on 6/10/2014 at 4:44 pm

Jen - Brrrr! It was in the low 90s in Houston today. I would LOVE to send some of that heat your way. I love to hear your team name is No Troubles. That’s the way to go. Hope you are staying as warm as possible. Good luck on your cache carry tomorrow. I’m getting so excited for you guys!!

Posted by: Nicole on 6/10/2014 at 4:01 pm

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