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Walking back from dinner tonight, we were talking about the daily dispatch and I asked, “so… what should we include?”

Unanimously, everyone said: “the tornado hurricane lightning downpour.”

This was said as we stepped over fallen tree branches and ducked under hanging power lines. So yes today was eventful.

Was that the worst weather of the trip? We sincerely hope so. Ideally, we’re getting it all out of our system now while we’re still in Mendoza.

Picture this: it’s mid-afternoon. We’ve just wrapped our big orientation meeting (what to expect, how to pack, what’s the mountain actually like…) and finished gear checks. Everyone is scattered around town doing last-minute shopping, soaking up the city. I’d just gotten back to the hotel and noticed the sky turning that color. You know the one. As the wind started picking up, I crossed my fingers that everyone had already made it back. 

Spoiler alert: they had not.

Cardboard was flying through the air. Tiny birds were fighting for their lives. Water was pouring through elevators and doorways. Hail, graupel, and torrential rain come down all at once. Streets flooded. Ancient trees went down. One of us got stuck at a gear shop for over an hour and eventually just… swam home. Another tried to wait it out under the awning of a music store (with guitars in the window, for added drama), but eventually gave up and sprinted through the flash floods back to the hotel.

It was truly wild.

So while today was supposed to be a calm, uneventful Mendoza day, it turned into something a little more chaotic. But the skies eventually cleared, we walked past town clean up crews to a delicious dinner, and now we’re all back, dry(ish), and ready to hit the trail tomorrow.

Hopefully it will be a sunny bluebird day. 

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Aconcagua team 

P.S. Yes, of course we had more gelato. I think amongst the team we’ve tried at least 15 flavors since arriving. The great debate about the best one will continue until we’re back off the mountain for more. 

Hello from Pangboche.

I’m writing this from a tea house window watching snow fall on the valley below, which feels like the appropriate punctuation to a trip that has given us weather in every form except usually the one we actually wanted.

Until yesterday.

Yesterday, the mountains gave us a gift.

Summit day was the most sun we’ve seen this entire trip. No wind. Perfect snow conditions — more coverage on the upper mountain than our Sherpa guide team has seen in years, which turned the typical steep, slabby rock into a beautiful snow climb. We got extraordinarily lucky, and we knew it.

We left high camp just after 3:00 a.m., headlamps on, the dark enormous around us. Seven and a half hours later, the team stood on the summit of Lobuche.

What happened in between is harder to put into words.

Hard things are hard. I know — profound. A quote we’ve joked about but actually hits. There’s something that happens on a mountain at altitude, in the dark, with steep terrain above you and your legs already tired, where that simple truth becomes the whole truth. The technical sections near the top demanded everything. Every step deliberate, every breath rationed. And I’ll be honest: I did not stop talking. Probably to a degree that could be classified as unhinged. “You’ve got this.” “Dig deep.” “Keep moving.” “You’ve got this.” If any of my team is reading this — I’m only slightly sorry.

What I watched in return was something I don’t take for granted, no matter how many times I get to see it. People tapping into strength they didn’t know they had. Facing real fear — of heights, of the unknown, of their own limits — and stepping forward anyway. Tears behind glasses. Shaking legs that kept moving. At one point I looked up through the thin air and saw a climber moving through steep, challenging terrain with a power and grace that stopped me. Elegant and strong in exactly the moment it was hardest to be either.

That’s what this mountain asks for. That’s what this team gave.

By summit, every one of us was running on fumes — the kind of tired that lives in your bones and doesn’t apologize. The Khumbu cough we’d somehow dodged the entire trip? Consider it found. Turns out all it needed was one very long, very hard day at altitude to make its entrance. Worth it. Completely worth it.

We returned to high camp, celebrated, and slept the deep sleep of people who had earned it.

Today we descended to Pangboche, where it is snowing (of course it is) and where I am sitting warm and still and deeply grateful.

To the families reading this: your people were extraordinary. They showed up, they dug deep, and they stood on top of a very big mountain in the Himalayas. More heart and courage on this team than I’ve seen in a long time.

Everyone is safe, everyone is proud, and everyone is very ready for a hot shower.

And we’re very, very glad to be sleeping below 14,000ft for the first time in 8 days.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Lobuche team

Hi team, it's my turn to write this blog from afar. For say goodby and thank you. I am so happy because we achieved our goal, and I'm not just talking about the summit. In my first blog, I asked myself why we come to the mountains, and I discovered it was to find challenges. Well, Aconcagua was a great challenge for everyone. I met amazing, strong people and a very united group. That's not easy, and we did it. I truly enjoyed the days we shared, guiding and speaking English. I just want to say thank you, and I hope you enjoy the asado and vino in Mendoza. Writing in English isn't easy for me, so it's not a very long blog, but it's from the heart. 

A big hug and after so much adventure, I hope your return to home will be tranqui panki.

Grajales and RMI Guide Batti 

We’re just hours away from attempting our first Ecuador volcano. Today we drove to our high camp, unloaded our gear and then climbed about an hour above our hut to the edge of the glacier. The upper mountain peeked out from the clouds a couple times today but lower clouds blocked the views for most of the afternoon. We double checked our boot and crampon fit and practiced our ice axe technique. We’re looking forward, and a little anxious, for our attempt to summit Cayambe.

RMI Guide Walter Hailes

Hello friends and family from the Summit of Cayambe!

We all made it up and down safely. Thanks for all the thoughts and prayers.

RMI Guide Walter Hailes

Hello from Namche Bazaar!

Today we made our way up from Phakding, following the Dudh Koshi River and crossing a series of suspension bridges — including the iconic Hillary Bridge. High, swaying, and for one teammate, an instant rollercoaster moment. Hands up and everything.

From there, the trail turned upward. The climb into Namche is steady and steep — the kind that reminds you to settle into your breath and just keep moving. We shared the trail with zopkio and mule trains along the way. Shared is a loose term. You learn quickly who has the right of way out here.

We stopped for lunch and swapped favorite moments from the trip so far — including last night’s newly invented card game (Sploot, a masterpiece) and the simple joy of these trails and bridges.

We pulled into Namche this afternoon, greeted by colorful buildings, rolling clouds, and the satisfying feeling of a solid day in the mountains. The team is strong and stoked, and we’re looking forward to a couple nights here acclimatizing.

— RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the team

P.S. Good luck to Ben on his hockey tournament! Forecheck, backcheck.

Why do we do this?

No showers, marginal nutrition, bitter cold, stifling heat. Don't forget the heavy packs tired legs, strong winds, and thin air. As our minds wander, step after step, I think it's the dichotomies of climbing that keep is coming back. Always yearning for the next far away peak. The calm within the chaos, the humbling yet empowering nature of the mountain, the isolation and the strongest connections a group of people can make. Mountaineering is the greatest team sport I have found in my short but varied 25 years on this earth. People from all walks of life coming together for a common goal. Summit or not it is a fast track to making friends for life. I would be mistaken if I didn't recognize the people along the way who made this journey possible. I am grateful for our team of climbers who were brave enough to try, my fellow guides , Ben and Batti, who supported the team every step of the way, the kind and organized staff of RMI and Grajales expeditions, Shane and Jonny, our friends and families back at home, and most importantly Aconcagua herself. I love this shit.
PLG

- RH (RMI Guide Ray Holt)
P.S. Happy Birthday Andrew!

Wahoo!!! 

Everyone on top.  

All team members safely back to high camp after standing on the “Roof of Africa” and we did it while watching the sun rise. 

This team crushed it. Doing everything perfectly and stayed positive even though it was tough at times. It was surprisingly chilly (thermometer said 15°) and busier than we would have liked, however, our early departure saved us from the more than 100+ climbers all stuffed together. We even had the summit to ourselves for a little while. 

We spent about about 30 minutes on the summit celebrating, taking photos and even made a few phone calls to loved ones back home. 

We are headed down the mountain to our final camp in the thick warm air at 10,000ft, where we’ll have dinner then head off to bed for some well deserved sleep. 

RMI Guide Casey Grom and a very happy Kili team!

I’m typing this from the back of the sprinter van that’s hauling us and all our dusty duffels from Penitentes, the tiny old ski town just outside Aconcagua National Park. I’m watching the southern stars one last time out the window as Carlos (you may remember him from the beginning of the trip for sending us off with AC/DC) sails down the highway back to Mendoza.

We woke up this morning after a lovely night at Plaza de Mulas base camp - warm showers, wifi, a hot meal, and a gorgeous sunset. It gave us all the energy we needed for the ~16 mile walk out. We round it up to 20 miles so feel free to do the same when you ask us how it was.

We walked and walked down from over 14,300ft to the entrance at 9,500ft. You won’t be surprised to hear that the wind carried us out. Just as it carried us in and up and back down. Our faithful friend. Or something.

We mostly walked in silence, some with music, some with only the windsong but all of us reflecting on the adventure.

Most teams spread out throughout the day on the hike but we stayed together in our faithful formation, one in front of the other, moving as a team one last time.

We stopped to stare up at the south face of Aconcagua. We hadn’t seen it yet — fierce and gorgeous with its hanging seracs and vertical rock and ice.

You may wonder, why are you just now driving back to Mendoza in the dark? Well, sometimes things don’t go according to plan and today the mulas carrying all our gear were a little behind. So we waited for a few years, err hours, at the Grajales warehouse with all the other teams that hiked out today.

We stayed positive, mostly, and passed the time by learning the intricacies of Mate (the local beverage of choice) (pronounced Maaaa-Te) from Leandro. What to do — look your friend in the eye when you pass the cup. What not to do — never, ever ever touch the straw.

And finally just as we were finishing our last bag of Honey Nut Cheerios that went up and over the whole mountain with us — the duffels arrived.

Or most of them. But don’t worry, the rest will come tomorrow.

Soon we’ll be in Mendoza and back to a soft bed and hot water on demand and all the comforts we now appreciate a lot more than 2 weeks ago when we left.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the A-team

January 26: A Thrilling Ascent to Cayambe

The adventure began with an alpine start, as our strong team set out for Cayambe. Under a breathtaking sky, we were treated to views of the southern cross as well as constellations we recognize in the northern hemisphere, a rare celestial show for the climb ahead.

As we reached the glacier, the weather took a gentle turn with light snowflakes beginning to fall. A stunning sight awaited us as we gazed towards the Amazon, where flashes of lightning illuminated the distant sky, creating a dramatic backdrop to our ascent.

Pushing onward, our team persevered to an altitude of 17,500 feet. The snow intensified, and we could feel a palpable electricity in the air—a sign that the weather was turning. Prioritizing safety, we made the wise decision to descend before the storm hit.

Once back at camp, we took a moment to rest and capture the stunning views and a well-deserved rest followed by a hearty hut breakfast.

The adventure continued as we embarked on an exhilarating ride down the access road from Cayambe to Los Mortiños, a quaint and comfortable refuge nestled at the base of Cotopaxi. Once we settled at Los Mortiños, we indulged in a fantastic dinner and a well-deserved drink, savoring the camaraderie of our team before sinking into a restful night.

January 27: A Day of Rest and Reflection

We awoke to another hot coffee along with tasty Ecuadorian breakfast. In the backdrop, a view of Cotopaxi framing our dining experience. After a good meal, coffee, and some great conversation we broke for a well-earned relaxing day. 

Some of us enjoyed a nice book by the fireplace, while others opted for a serene horseback ride through the picturesque countryside. The tranquility of the surroundings offered the perfect backdrop for reflection and rejuvenation.

Shortly we’ll be gathering again for dinner, sharing our experiences and excitement for the big day on Cotopaxi that lay ahead. Stay tuned as we prepare for the next leg of our adventure!

RMI Climber Paul Morgan