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Sorry for a few missed dispatches, service isn't great on Cotopaxi 

We set our alarms for an early wake up this morning and our summit attempt on Cotopaxi. However, when we woke up around 11pm to check the weather we didn’t even need to get out of bed, the noise on the roof of the climbers hut was enough to tell us it was raining. Our team along with around 30 other climbers waited in the hut for the storm to break but it never did.

At around 3am we used a lull in the weather to give it go, but after an hour of climbing uphill through the rain, the rime ice and wind became too much to handle. We descended back to the hut with a high point of around 17,000 ft. Other climbers trickled back into the hut with up to a centimeter of ice built up on their backpacks and similar stories.

We left the Cotopaxi hut this morning and are now at our hotel drying out and prepping to travel to Chimborazo tomorrow. Hopefully we can get some better weather for our last and biggest climb of the trip. 

RMI Guide Nick Sinapius and Team

Leaving Mexico City, team Mexican Koala - our girl Bec flew all the way from Australia - was excited to tackle our first volcano, Malinche at 14,501. 

Our van ride went smoothly and before we knew it we were enjoying the crowd-favorite bbq meat towers at the Malinche cabins restaurant. Our weather was cold but clear, and folks went to bed ready for an early-ish morning. 

Alarms went off at 4:30am, and unfortunately Bec’s long trip from Australia had her under the weather. But the rest of them team rallied for her and left the cabins in the dark. At around 13,500’ we walked into a moody mist cloud, and with our army of mountain-dogs, around 11am, we climbed onto the summit just in time for a sun break! 100% for those who left the cabins!

More meat towers yesterday evening and a good night’s sleep and we’re off to Ixta!

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

Saturday, June 27 - 9:30PM PST

The latest storm moved in slowly this morning. For a time we thought we might sneak in a carry, but it was not to be.  Clouds and light, but persistent snow swallowed up the mountain.  Luckily, there hasn’t been wind to accompany all the moisture.  We stretched out breakfast and then everybody found a few chores to do outside, moving snow blocks around here and there. Most of the day, we did the Denali Hang, sitting in our tents - reading and napping. It was great to have RMI Guides Ben, Mike and Avery come out of the fog at midday with their successful summit teams. They set up camp not far away to wait out the snowy days.  Miles and Jack prepared a big jambalaya pot of dinner to cap off a quiet day and the team ate every morsel in our now familiar dining tent.

- RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Today was the big one. Not only did we transition from the O portion to the W portion of the trek, it was also the biggest day of the entire trip. Up and over John Gardner Pass. A day that typically takes teams 10 to 12 hours, and we hit it right in the bullseye at 11 hours total.

Today was on our side. What can often be a gusty, cold, and wet test of grit turned into a warm, calm, and spectacular one. Easily some of the best weather I have ever had over the pass.

Afterward, we spent much of the day traversing alongside the glacier. The trail winds and weaves through the trees, offering glimpses of the ice every so often. You almost forget it’s there until you crest a hill and are reminded exactly where you are.

Along the way, we crossed three suspension bridges, each one feeling a little easier as our confidence grew and the movement beneath our feet became more familiar. By the time we reached Refugio Grey, the day had finally caught up to us. Hot showers, dry clothes, and the quiet relief that comes after a long push were more than enough. With that, we settled in and hoped the rain we’re expecting decides to hold off until later.

Go Seahawks, and I hope Drake Maye keeps getting sacked.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

RMI Guide Jess Wedel checked in a with a quick message to let us know that the team reach Everest Base Camp just before the snow began to fall.  

Pico. De. Orizaba. 

What an incredible place, an incredible volcano, and an incredible climb. Congratulations to the team today for making it to el cumbre! After a glorious dinner last night before bed, prepared by the wonderful Rudolpho and Allan, we woke up same night to tackle our final objective. The night shined bright thanks to an almost full moon, lighting up the Labyrinth light a simple fable....with almost no wind and not a mouse to be heard (only felt on the back of the head while sleeping), we then enjoyed an insanely colorful sunrise that pictures can't even describe. Not all of us made it, but we are ecstatic for those that did. Now here we sit, back in Tlachichuca, all showered and bonito again. We could not be more grateful for our local guide Allan, and the rest of the Servimont crew for all of their hosting, driving, cooking, and overall hospitality. David Bowie may portray it better, but we will miss this place, once we are gone.

RMI Guide Ben Luedtke & Team

Our Cotopaxi summit day came highly anticipated after being run off of Cayambe earlier in the week. We awoke to high overcast at 11pm and decided it looked good for a run at the summit. The night began with the customary bread rolls, slab of butter and huge plate of jelly that is put out every night at the same time. While it would be nice to stagger our starts a little, we are at the mercy of when the hot water and aforementioned breakfast will be served.

One team made it out of the gates ahead of us, but it took very little time before they were peeling jackets and we were passing them in the unseasonably warm night. That put us in front for breaking trail for most of the climb, a task that Felipe took on energetically. There had been some question as to what snow conditions we might encounter up high, but at the very worst we dealt with a few inches of graupel that made for difficult footing as it had filled in slightly deeper where the track previously existed.

This team was well-rested and ready to go, as evidenced by our 8 hour roundtrip summit day. The conditions were excellent for our descent, but that still doesn't diminish the fact that we got up and down in 2-3 hours less than normal. A big thanks to this team for being so well-prepared to climb that we could have a safe climb and spend much of it chatting with one another. Tonight we will dine together as a group, one final time, and recap the trip before returning home.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Sun 6/7/2026 6:45 PM PST

With all the prerequisite caching, acclimatization, and skills prep compete, we now hunker down at camp 14k to await a weather window. Things look optimistic for Tuesday, so between now and then we snack, rest, snack some more, get beaten by Matt at backgammon (sorry Dad, I’m in deep after losing a 64-point game), nap, chat, read while snacking, snack while reading, stretch the  legs, and repeat until dinner time. Pad Thai, let’s go! Make sure to leave room for dessert though.

We did take a break from snacking to learn how to do efficient running belays, which will become critical during our summit day. When temperatures are as low as negative 25, and wind chill potentially doubling that lower, every minute counts.

With conditions potentially deteriorating tonight, we also learned the fine art of digging a snow block quarry and constructing 4 foot high walls to block the wind from flapping our tents all night long. Good to know that if my career in proprietary trading ever stalls I can pivot to high altitiude masonry.

Ray lead construction of a magnificent new bathroom, complete with soaring white marble walls, ergonomically designed toilet platform, gender neutral urinal, and unobstructed views of the summit. If he could just rig up a heated bucket seat I might not poop anywhere else ever again.

After spending the last 11 days and nights together, chatting, laughing and snuggling in our tents (looking at you Alonso) you might think we know everything there is to know about each other. But as I’ve learned today, we all still have secrets.

What follow are blind secrets, one for each member of our team (including the guides). Only I know who wrote each one. After dinner, we will try to match each secret to its owner. For the 12 hundred readers of this blog, wager your own guesses in the comments! Answers will be provided in tomorrow’s post.

1. During college I worked in a sorority kitchen washing dishes in exchange for free food.

2. I once panicked inside a busy IKEA when I couldn’t find my way out and had to go home and sleep for three hours.

3. I once angrily told someone to shut up during a musical only to find out during the intermission that it was a disabled person and her guide, who was explaining the plot to her.

4. I have an MBA, two bachelors degrees and two associates degrees.

5. I listen to “Danger Zone” by Kenny Loggins before every major life task/event to get myself amped up and in the zone. It has worked time and time again.

6. I learned an instrument in 12 months, which lead to joining and training with the states symphony orchestra for young adults, and played one concert with the LA opera.

7. I used to ride bucking horses at the Friday night rodeo.

8. One of my favorite things to watch before bed is live ‘speed running’, events, which is essentially watching people watching people beat video games really fast.

9. I can touch my elbows behind my back.

10. My ancestors were the only family in the Donnor party to survive without losing a single family member.

- RMI Climber Peter

Thursday, June 4, 2026 5:53pm PDT

Summited at 4:20 with 100% . Headed down now.

Thursday June 4, 2026 10:12pm PDT

Everyone is back at 17 Camp. 

Thursday June 5, 2026 12:24am PDT

We will start with the great news, our entire team went to the top of Denali today! We reached the point where we could go no further at approx. 4:30 pm.

Our day started on the colder side with clear skies and a mild but biting wind. We left 17 camp and began our We broke out into the warming sun at Denali pass and continued steadily up, enjoying decreasing winds and sunshine, climb across the autobahn.

By the time we had reached the Football Field, a broad basin below the final climb to the summit, we were down to only one or two layers. With the summit ridge in sight, we climbed up Pig Hill to Kahiltna Horn, breaking 20,000'. Here we were quickly reminded of our location as freezing winds had us scrambling for more clothes.

The final push to the true summit went slowly but smoothly as we topped out on the highest point in North America. Strong and cold winds made our stay on top short, but lifelong goals and aspirations were fulfilled in those fleeting moments.

We are all now back down to 17,000' camp and tucked into our sleeping bags. Our descent continues tomorrow!

Cheers - RMI Guide Seth Burns & Team

The team absolutely styled Cotopaxi this morning, or more accurately, last night. Midnight departures are more or less the standard here in Ecuador, as the hut staff typically provides hot water for coffee and tea and bread rolls with butter and jam at 11 pm. We started out on a winding sandy trail above the refugio that quickly turned to firm crunchy snow, and were soon traversing the lower slopes of the glacier.

A brief but intense rain storm rolled through yesterday afternoon not long after we had arrived at the hut, so we approached the steeper upper mountain with caution due to some uncertainty around how much snow had fallen up there and how the resulting avalanche conditions might manifest. The tropical high-alpine snowpack on these peaks can behave in strange ways and is often unlike anything we'd typically encounter in the mountains back home. But this time around Dustin and I were pleasantly surprised to find an unreactive interface and minimal slab formation from the previous day's weather. The few inches that had fallen did however make for excellent climbing conditions, allowing us to move through the steep and exposed switchbacks below the summit confidently and efficiently.

Perhaps the only detracting factor of the climb was our few moments on the summit itself, which were kept rather brief due to lots of nasty smelling sulfuric gas, and lacked the iconic views of Cotopaxi's massive crater which was largely obscured by clouds. Once on the descent however the team continued to crush it, and we were back at the Refugio Jose Rivas before 8 am! This meant we've had most of the day to catch up on sleep, food and hydration at Hacienda La Cienega. Tomorrow we'll head to Chimborazo Lodge and start preparing for our last big objective! 

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo

PS- I failed to take a single blog-worthy photo today, but I think Dustin has a few decent ones. I'll ask him to send them when he wakes up from his nap.