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Mt. Baker: 100% Summit on the Easton Glacier

Friday, August 5, 2022 7:15 am PDT

Baker Easton Glacier100% summit! Great day of climbing with a Strong Team! 

Thursday, Augsut 4, 2022 6:31 pm PDT

We woke up this morning to some light rain that started sometime during the night. We remained in our tents most of the day taking advantage of the time to nap, rest, and enjoy some of our snacks. Before dinner we freshened up on some more skills in preparation for our climb. We are now cozied up in our sleeping bags and will try for the summit early in the morning. All is well and everyone is excited!

RMI Guides: Ben Luedtke and Augi Fleer

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Everest Basecamp Trek and Island Peak Climb: Gorak Shep

The group was up early this morning, despite encountering the coldest temperatures of the trip thus far - our water bottles lightly icing up even in the teahouse. However, we quickly shook off the cold within a few minutes of starting off, warming up as we walked out of Lobuche. An hour's walk brought us to the edge of the Khangri Glacier, a tributary flowing into the main Khumbu Glacier just to our side. We climbed up the moraine of the Khangri and began the weaving traverse over its rock strewn surface, climbing up and down over the uneven terrain. Part way through we reached a high point and we're treated to fantastic views further up the valley, even catching glimpses of the tents at Everest BC. By late morning we reached our teahouse at Gorak Shep, the last cluster of buildings before BC. We paused for a cup of tea and after refilling our bottles we set out to climb Kala Patar, a rocky outcropping that sits across the valley from Everest. The team climbed very strongly, the benefits of our acclimatization over the past ten days clearly visible, and within a couple of hours we reached Kala Patar's prayer flag strewn summit. At 18,500' Kala Patar has phenomenal views looking down over Everest BC and the Khumbu Icefall as well as to its summit, the Hillary Step, South Summit, South Col, and part of the Lhotse Face. In addition to Everest, we could see over the Lho La Pass to Changatse in Tibet as well as south down the valley, picking out the peaks of Tamserku, Katenga, and Ama Dablam which we walked past earlier. Despite the clear skies and amazing views the winds were blowing strongly and we were forced to raise our voices to be heard over the fluttering prayer flags. The temperature was quite cold with the wind and before too long we set off back down the trail, returning to Gorak Shep where a late lunch of soup and tea helped rewarm us. We've spent the remainder of the afternoon relaxing in Gorak Shep. We had a great day and are thrilled to have had such great weather and views from Kala Patar. Tomorrow we cover the final stretch to Everest Base Camp where we will spend a couple of nights sleeping on the ice in RMI's Everest Expedition camp. We will check in tomorrow from BC. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Tim!  I am missing you so much, but in a good way!  LOVING the dispatches and pictures!  I hope you are keeping a good journal so you can tell us EVERYTHING!  I can’t wait!  Everything is good at home.  I have had the crud, but am feeling MUCH better today!  Piss and vinegar coming back. HA!  Bridger misses your warm lap at night, and so do I!  Have done 2 commission checks and didn’t screw up!  Yay me!  I should be helping you pay company bills. Once in a while! :)  I adore you and look forward to the 16th!  But, I want this good experience to last for you.  You are living your dreams!  I couldn’t be more proud of you!

Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/4/2011 at 12:14 pm

I am fine since tooth pulled—Dad left his message kinda hanging.  Yesterday, Sat., 4/2/11 AM the sun was shining, bright blue skies so I jumped in my hot tub clothes, went outside and promptly turned around and headed back in the house!!  It was extremely cold and windy—What a wimp!  How did I ever birth a child who actually LIVES for cold and windy!!!! Ha—Cudos to you, Timmer.  Stay safe all of you.  I depend on them to take care of my son—Yeah, I know, nuff Mom talk.  Love ya, Mom

Posted by: Mom Mac on 4/3/2011 at 12:22 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams Descending from the Crater Rim

The Four Day Climb July 12 - 15 led by RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier & Abby Westling reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Dustin reported sunny skies and winds from the west at 20 mph, which was less than forecasted.  The teams were leaving the crater rim just after 7 am today for their return to Camp Muir.  Once at Muir they will have a short rest before continuing 4,500' down to Paradise.

Congratulations to today's climbing teams!

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Aislinn and Ali,
Congratulations on your successful climb!  Elation at Elevation 14,410.
We are so proud and happy for you❤️❤️❤️

Posted by: Mom/Shane and Dad/Stanford on 7/16/2023 at 10:00 am


Mt. Rainier: Team Turn after a Cold Morning

The Mt. Rainier Four-Day climb led by RMI guides, Steve Gately and Emma Lyddan, turned around near 13,000’ this morning. After a cold morning and a light dusting of flurries, the team made the decision to turn back. The climbers are currently on their descent and will be back to celebrate their hard-work this afternoon in Ashford.

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Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn & Team Back to Namche Bazaar

Today was a big walking day, up and down the hills of the Khumbu Valley from Pheriche to Namche. Right out of Pheriche, where we started hiking at 8 AM, we crossed the river, climbed a hill and turned into the inhabited portions of the Khumbu. We turned our backs on rocks and ice and walked down into rhododendrons, pine trees and villages. JJ led the way as we rolled through Shomare, Pangboche, Deboche, Thyangboche, and Phunky Tonga. We got hot enough to sweat a bit, which was a novelty, we passed a million trekkers and heard about a million helicopter laps as the B2's and B3's flew over us on their way back and forth to Everest Base. Finally, at midday, we got working our way up the giant dusty hill that would put us on level with Namche. It took us about six hours to reach Namche -still quite familiar to us since we spent three days acclimating in town on the way in. This time... no acclimatization needed... so fine to be below 12,000 ft for the first time in close to a month. The team enjoyed a fine evening at comfortable Camp De Base. One more big day of hiking to go before Lukla International. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Nicole Lobiondo: Safe travels from Lukla to you all! Nicole H.

Posted by: Nicole Howard on 4/28/2014 at 6:27 am

Hey Spencer, So sorry you weren’t able to make it this time. You’ll be back under better circumstances and the summit will be that much more sweet. Safe journey home!
Uncle Matt

Posted by: Matt Pietro on 4/27/2014 at 12:40 pm


Peru Seminar: Davis and Team Summit Urus Este!

July 16, 2022

We began our morning with another alpine start and left basecamp under the stars at 2:00 a.m. for our summit attempt of Urus Este. We climbed the steep rocky approach in the cool night air. With frosty packs the team made the toe of the glacier and donned our crampons, ropes, and axes just before the skies became purple and pink. Reaching the summit of Urus Este in style, 100% of the team was all smiles!

More to come!

RMI Guide Alan Davis and team

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Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Reflects on Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Mt. Everest

Dave Hahn here calling in from 21,300' on Mount Everest, Advanced Base Camp. A big day for us. We went as planned up on the Lhotse Face. We went to 23,500', very nearly to where our Camp 3 is gonna be, just short of that. A good day out on the Face. We broke Dan Johnson's altitude record. We didn't quite break Seth's or mine. But really nice to be climbing up on the Lhotse Face and a beautiful day. And from way up there, looking at Everest, the top of Everest and the plume blowing off, it was impossible not think of the day that Jim Whittaker and Nawang Gombu, two of our heroes, summitted the mountain 50 years ago in a big cloud and snow plume, in high winds. But pretty remarkable anniversary and neat to be around the mountain for that anniversary. We are definitely thinking of that incredible accomplishment 50 years ago, but also our own incredible accomplishment today. It felt really good getting up there and getting back down. And as well, a number of Sherpas, from various teams got together and fixed rope all the way to the South Col today. So rope is fixed to 8,000 meters and that is pretty much opening the door for summit bids. May is here and it's all gonna start happening. But we're pretty psyched with what we accomplished on this round. We're headed down in the morning and looking forward to the comforts of Base camp. Bye for now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls in from Advanced Basecamp.

On The Map

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Way to GO Dan!! We are following your progress and send our prayers via west winds. Our best to all our Sherpa friends who helped us out at Base Camp Everest this year- we had a wonderful time. Mark- Khumbu Masters?

Posted by: Elsie Bemiss on 5/1/2013 at 6:38 pm

Congratulations Dan on your new milestone.  More to come!
I’m trying to keep track of Base Camp trips up and back.  What will be the roundtrip total? Five?

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/1/2013 at 5:31 pm


Torres del Paine: King & Team Hike to Torres, Complete Trek

The estimated mileage today was 13.1. It was totally worth it. We left around 6 am and had the trail mostly to ourselves. The hike was mostly “matt approved” but it did require some climbing and large steps that after nine days made several of us glad that we were nearing the end of our trek. Last night in Refugio Torres Central there was a disco that kept some awake and those in tents dealt with a cantankerous set of crepuscular song birds that wouldn’t be silenced, but I digress. The Towers were out upon our arrival in the large granite cirque and the wind was moderate. We watched wannabe influencers take photos and more than a couple almost wreck themselves doing the “jumping” 80’s photo thing that won’t die. The contentious total was 93.4 miles and 16,000' elevation gain over the last nine days.

The entire group is showered and ready to dive into some pizza and continue to quench that irresistible thirst that has stalked us since Lago Dickson. When we distill the trip down, Patagonia is beautiful, sore feet were experienced by all, fun and laughter abounded and now two grown adults dressed in penguin onesies are delivering drinks to say “salud” to a great group and trip together. 

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

F U N to folo Mike - Congratulation. Been a few years

Posted by: Waltero Glover on 2/17/2022 at 6:34 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Teams Unable to Make Summit Attempt

The Five Day Climb June 18 - 22 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Bryan Mazaika enjoyed the sunrise at Ingraham Flats and Muir Peak. Weather this morning was calm and sunny with a few small wind gusts. The teams were unable to climb due to route conditions.  All climbers descended from Camp Muir just after 8 am en route to Paradise.  They will return to Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

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@Dilip my understanding is it is like early spring conditions and the avy conditions are risky.

Posted by: Ryan on 6/23/2022 at 6:28 am

Definitely a bit upsetting to see so many teams not make summit

Posted by: John on 6/22/2022 at 6:24 pm


Denali Expedition: Schmitt and Team Cache Gear at 17,000’

May 29 12:04am PT

This morning we woke up with the goal of caching gear and food as close to 17 camp as possible. As we passed each of the normal places people cache below 17 camp, such as the top of the fixed lines, below Washburns thumb etc., we just couldn’t find a reason to not keep going.

The weather was perfect, not a whisper of wind, and the views endless. The team was performing extremely well at such high altitude for the first time this trip, not to mention how they floated through the most technical terrain we’ve encountered thus far, so we went all the way to 17,000 ft camp. After digging ourselves a hole to cache in, we retraced our steps back down the west buttress and the fixed lines until we rolled into camp just as the shadow of the mountain engulfed the tent city.

All in all, a successful day completed by a strong team!

Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team

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Strong team makes big progress at high altitudes. We love it!

Posted by: Amy Houston on 5/30/2022 at 4:59 am

Way to go guys!  Thinking of you all and hoping for fair weather the next few days.  Just back from a week of sailing in gale force winds on the west coast of Scotland so am very glad you don’t have that!!  Love, Charles and Jennifer.

Posted by: Charles Platt on 5/29/2022 at 12:53 pm

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