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Mexico Volcanoes: Our Team Readies for Orizaba Summit in Tlachichuca

Hello everyone, this is JJ and Adam with the Mexico Volcanoes team. We had a great day of rest yesterday in Puebla, but we're back to business. We are currently sitting in Tlachichuca at Dr. Reyes' facility. We're busy organizing gear and getting ready for our 4-wheel drive adventure up to the hut on Orizaba. We had a good day getting in here, everyone's rested up and feeling good. The weather is absolutely beautiful and we believe that is going to continue. So knock on wood and cross your fingers, wish the team good luck, but hopefully by tomorrow, we will be on our way down from the summit of Orizaba. Take care everyone and we will touch base tomorrow hopefully from the summit. RMI Guide JJ Justman


RMI Guide JJ Justman checks in while the team prepares for Orizaba summit.

On The Map

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RMI Guide: Cody Doolan on the AMGA Rock Instructor Course

I recently completed the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) 10 day Rock Instructor Course (RIC) held at Smith Rock near my home town of Bend, Oregon. The RIC is the first in a series of courses by the AMGA to become certified as a rock or alpine climbing guide. The course exceeded all expectations by provided valuable knowledge and techniques that I can apply not only to rock guiding but to Rainier and much of my personal climbing. During the 10 days, the weather ranged from sweating in a t-shirts to shivering in a down Jacket and although it threatened rain or even snow at times, the weather held nicely the whole course. The Canadian geese had arrived for nesting and were an ever present entertainment of squawking and fighting for nesting sites in the background. What really made this course for me were the quality people I met both instructors and students. We had three instructors that each brought years of unique experiences and different skill sets to the table. This gave a diverse prospective on each topic and provided many learning opportunities. The group dynamic with the other students was awesome and created a very fun learning atmosphere that yielded new friends. My RIC was made financially possible though the RMI / First Ascent Guide Grant and I want to thank them for their generous contribution to the course tuition as I look forward to future courses with the AMGA. RMI Guide Cody Doolan
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Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Depart for Tarangire National Park

It is always tough to leave the Plantation Lodge.  It is just too comfortable and the people are way too kind and friendly.  But we tore ourselves away because of Tarangire National Park.  It is a worthy motivating force… the chance to see incredible numbers and varieties of wildlife on a seemingly unlimited expanse of beautiful land.  We got rolling out of Karatu at 8:30 AM but couldn’t resist a fine shopping opportunity for some Tanzanian keepsakes a short distance out of town.  We still made it out to Tarangire by late morning and immediately began seeing animals and then more animals and more animals still.  At first it was just the flavors we’d already become familiar with (zebra, wildebeest, impala, waterbuck, eagles, vultures, giraffes) but then we started seeing new things.  Family after family of elephants, each with a wee one just a few months old.  We saw a python up a tree.  We saw lions chewing on a zebra. We saw hartebeest and elan and bushbucks and Dik Dik.  We looked up every likely tree for leopards… but they are still hiding from us.  Then we finished the day at  Lokisale Lodge, deep within the park.  The staff gave us a friendly welcome and lit a fire for us to enjoy sunset by.  They warned us gently of the wild animals roaming through the grounds of the lodge and then showed us to our deluxe tent cabins.  We are about to eat our final dinner together, way out in East Africa. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Arrive at High Camp

Thursday, December 30, 2021 - 8:38 pm PT

Our run of perfect weather continues on Vinson Massif!  We got out of the big sleeping bags at 10:15 this morning when the shadow loosened its cold grip. We weren’t interested in a quick and hectic start or jumping out on the climbing route immediately.  Scott and Hannah -our superb ALE guides- cooked up a sumptuous breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon.  We ate, we looked each other in the eye, we polled the gang as to how the night had gone and how each climber felt about pushing higher.  And then we pushed higher.  We put on our crampons and got ice axes in hand and headed for the fixed ropes.  This section would be the “meat” of the day, roughly 2,000 vertical feet on steep and firm snow slopes, protected by a continuous line of rope, anchored every 200 feet or so.  We spent a good three or four hours on the wall and a few more on the lesser angled glacier above it.  The lead ropes pulled in a little after 8 PM and got busy building camp for those who would follow.  We climbed in fine weather, but things are on the cold side, with our estimates centering on about -30 F.  It was quite challenging to climb safely in such conditions with the odd 3 mph breeze coming through.  The team rocked it.  We ate a long dinner and drank hot beverage after hot beverage to rehydrate and regain energy.  It is 1:30 AM now, the sun is still beaming on the tents and everybody has turned in, excited to be here -close to 12,500 ft- and excited for a rest day on the final day of 2021.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Torres del Paine: King & Team Enjoy Nice First Day on the Trail

We left Puerto Natales this morning and enjoyed a scenic drive into Torres del Paine National Park. Along the way we saw some guanacos, a wild cousin of the llama & alpaca. Some condors, rhea(emu/ostrich like) and flamingos. The Paine Massif was clouded over but lots of new snow blanketed the lower slopes. Our hike was approximately nine miles through rolling hills and fields. This part of the park is still on private property and is a decommissioned cattle & sheep ranch. There was some nice creek crossings and the views of the Paine river, emerald green from the glacial till meandered in and out. Camp is an old ranch house that now has a kitchen and dining room. The Team did well and enjoyed the sunny and at times windy afternoon to enjoy being out of the boots and telling stories, reading and a few naps. The salmon and rice accompanied by some Chilean wine made for a nice end to the first day of our trek. Tomorrow we’ll head to Lago Dickson.

Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Mike King

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Glad to see you doing well. Nice way to ease in through ranch house and good wine!
Snow dissipating here in Taos.

Posted by: Lana & Jim on 2/8/2022 at 6:17 pm


Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Rest Day at Low Camp

Today was a fine and calm, sunny day from start to finish.  Just perfect for resting.  We took it easy and tried to catch up on napping and hydration.  This camp is 9300 feet above sea level and so it was a good acclimatization day as well.  The sun hit camp at about 10:40 AM and melted the frost collecting overhead in the tents… the perfect alarm clock.  We ate a leisurely breakfast in our small dining tent and then retreated to the warmth of the tents for the day.  Dinner was in strong sunshine at 8:30 PM.  We intend to put in a good hard day tomorrow, carrying loads up the fixed ropes. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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I’ve really enjoyed and appreciated your updates. May you have safety and success

Posted by: Don Huntington on 11/30/2021 at 3:51 pm


Vinson Massif: Dave Hahn and Team Wait Out Storm at Low Camp

The wind came in at 2:50 this morning.  It had been up above, already working high camp since 11 or midnight but we hoped it would forget to come down to visit.  Thankfully it didn’t blow hard down here, although we could hear it howling elsewhere.  And it eased off of camp by sun up at 10:40 AM, making it a bit easier to get out for breakfast.  We were getting sunshine but there were big and serious storm clouds raking the peaks above.  It was an easy decision to sit put… a storm day was declared.  There was plenty to do, as far as toughening up our little camp.  The kitchen/dining pit needed to get deeper in the ice for protection, snow block walls needed to be quarried for the tents.  We alternated between snacking, napping and working hard.  Forecasts call for the storm to continue tomorrow (Thursday) but there is reason to believe that things will be better on Friday.  Cold fingers crossed. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team

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Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Retrieves Cache and Reviews Climbing Techniques

Greetings, We had a good first night at Camp 1. Everyone is doing great and feeling strong. We did sleep in a little this morning and woke up to a beautiful cloudless day. A welcome treat after the last few mornings of rain. After breakfast we headed downhill to pick up our cache that we left two days ago. It was a quick roundtrip and we were back in camp by lunch. Since it was a rest day, we fired up the stoves and had quesadillas for lunch and lounged around camp. Starting tomorrow, we will be on the glacier for the rest of the climb. We wanted to get a little review in, so we went out on the glacier to practice some cramponing and ice ax arrest. We are all ready for tomorrow! Now we are back at camp hydrating and trying to make a dent in our pile of snack food. Dinner will come soon enough and we enjoying the late afternoon sun and the constantly changing colors on the upper mountain. What a view. All the best, RMI Guides Jeff Martin, Pete Van Deventer, and team

On The Map

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Hello Jess and team.
Great to hear you all had a great day. 
We are all doing well here at home.
Love you sweetie!!

Posted by: Hector on 8/8/2014 at 4:15 pm

Sounds like a great day!
Hello to Bruce from all back home!
Isabelle is missing her buddy.
Go conquer that glacier.

Posted by: Joyce Pully on 8/8/2014 at 3:38 pm


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climbs Reach Summit!

The Five Day Climb July 13 - 17 led by RMI Guides Nikki Champion and Jess Wedel chose today as their summit day.  The teams reached the crater rim this morning with clear skies but windy conditions.  The teams will return to Camp Muir for a well deserved rest and enjoy another night on the mountain. They will descend tomorrow to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Aislinn and Ali,
Congratulations on your successful climb!  Elation at Elevation 14,410”
We are so proud and happy for you❤️❤️❤️

I posted this earlier on the 4 day climb blog

Posted by: Mom/Shane and Dad/Stanford on 7/16/2023 at 5:37 pm

Way to go! Congratulations!

Posted by: Marguerite Riley on 7/16/2023 at 1:49 pm


Mt. Baker: 100% Summit on the Easton Glacier

Friday, August 5, 2022 7:15 am PDT

Baker Easton Glacier100% summit! Great day of climbing with a Strong Team! 

Thursday, Augsut 4, 2022 6:31 pm PDT

We woke up this morning to some light rain that started sometime during the night. We remained in our tents most of the day taking advantage of the time to nap, rest, and enjoy some of our snacks. Before dinner we freshened up on some more skills in preparation for our climb. We are now cozied up in our sleeping bags and will try for the summit early in the morning. All is well and everyone is excited!

RMI Guides: Ben Luedtke and Augi Fleer

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